ZBrush Hard Surface Techniques I
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2024
- Here we cover some basic uses of dynamesh, and brushes to come up with what I like to call a dynasketch that we can pull hard surface geometry from.
We will touch on brushes, techniques, polygroups, creases, and the Zmodeler.
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Isaac Oster:
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Mike Jensen:
mikejensen.dapo...
It's still useful in 2023. Thank you!
The video starts at 4:00
lmfao...
you had 69 thumbs up, you now have 70 thx to me
I feel like this is one of the biggest things new zbrush users should know, being one myself. Thank you for making this!
Absolutely stunning work indeed!!
Easily one of the most helpful and clear HS intros I've seen. Thanks dude!
you hammer that tablet bro! thump thump thump! lol thank you for the video, really helpful
+Allan Palmer It's how I keep it in line, lol. I do need a better audio setup, though.
+ZFever just place your mic on a separate surface, other than your tablet table. ;-)
Very nice process!! Thanks for breaking all this stuff down! I look forward to more! Great stuff!!
This was a very helpful tutorial. I have been struggling with my project for days now, but this helps quite a bit. Thank you!
Thanks. Glad it helped. I'm always looking to improve what I put out there. So, if you think of anything that would have been helpful for you to know, let me know.
Subscribed! I was struggling with breaking apart components and this helped so much. Such an elegant tutorial!
Thanks for the kind words. Glad it is still helpful all these years later.
You're a genius! Love the way you teach. I had a lot of enlighting moments in this video. Thanks!!!
11:48
ZFever: It's a bit of an older project.
Me: But it checks out.
This video help me a lot, still not perfect, need to practice but really save my life on the work i want to do!! Thanks!
I love the rant part. That was real talk right there. Thanks for the vid. I enjoyed it a lot.
awesome video, gives such a good insight into the workflow and what kinda mindset is required.
buddy, thank you very much! please make another tutorial on modeling sneakers using hard surface
Great technique-and I agree that crease by Polygroup is the way to go. You didn't explain what 'CTRL-W' is. Create Polygroup from selection?
I like how you demonstrated the re-topo tool too. I generally used to do this in TopoGun but it seems easy enough in Z.
Would be nice if the pacing were faster, but useful info either way, and thanks for the vid.
Yeah, sorry. CTRL+W creates a polygroups. It behaves differently in different situations, though. For instance, if you mask off an area, and hit it, the masked area will become a new polygroup. But, without masking, it will group whatever is visible on that subtool.
Thanks for sharing. I notice you have all interface align to the right. May i know how it is done? I enabled customization but was not able to have similar alignment.
Wow! it's Amazing I did it well ! Perfect work !
Thank you for keeping this strictly in ZBrush. Besides Blender, this is all my poor ass can afford.
just started !!! had to give a thumb up already for your greetings :D
So basically it's make a mold of the object you want to create, retopologize it, then tweak the created adaptive skin from the mold.
Is that right?
Really awesome!! I do hope to see more!!!
WONDERFUL explanation - THANK YOU!!!
haha I'm just starting the tutorial but with a salute like that I had to subscribe straight away
Question about creasing in ZBrush. I am looking to export a created mesh to Modo. the creases do not save out in the OBJ file. is there a way to make the creases permanent?
Brian, I don't have much experience with Modo. I know that if you export an ASCII file to Maya, the creases can carry over. The only other ways that I can think of would be to add edge loops, or once you have your retop, set the creases using zmodeler, and dynamic subdivisions; then, apply the subdivision, and export that .obj for import in to Modo. This is a bit of an older workflow, but still useful.
@@TheArtHack Thank you!!! I really appreciate your advice.
Thank you!
Thank you are one of a kind. !!!
Still working as of today, ty!
i cant make the topology symetric? i cant make it get to the center the green dot is to hthe right ( im a neewb)
Man you are the best. This video has been a great help! How can I have the quick pick brush like yours? great workstation!
Thank you sir!
Zradia Thank you! There are a couple of custom interfaces and resources that anyone can download here: facebook.com/groups/1607197016184517/files/
Bit old by now. But would zRemsher give you similar Retopo quality if you'd have used Polygroups without the manual remeshing?
Yeah, you're on the right track. I did this when ZRemesher first came out. So, I was still using, and still sometimes use methods from the 4R4 days. But, yeah, you can use polygroups, zremesher with keep groups, and polish by groups. That would be a really fast way to do it. However, knowing this will allow for another level of control, if needed. Here's a good video I found a while back. It's super useful.
ruclips.net/video/-uk4idpNWho/видео.html
@@TheArtHack Thank you for the reply.
I see. I just rather recently started with Blender and am taking my first steps in zbrush since just a few days.
Since I am recreating a welcome arc and wall from a 2D image I thankfully stumbled across your Hardsurface Tutorial, which I might be able to pull off quicker in Blender, but would love to learn it in zbrush too.
@@syahkeiko1251 I use lots of programs depending on the need. For more architectural things, I like to use Fusion 360 or Rhino because I can use a CAD drawing and export to ZBrush if I need to. Really depends on your preference, how much control you need, and the final output. ZBrush can do pretty much everything, but it does take some workflow knowledge. Good luck!
Hey mate, thanks for the awesome tutorial. I just have a quick question of detailing. When say you're making a small panel that has a lot of little grid-lines/patterns on it, basically little intricate details, how do you go about detailing the panel? Do you sculpt those little details manually or is there a more appropriate or say, cleaner way to do that? Hope to hear from you soon
Please help- the X Axis snapping is offset by .3 when I jump into Edit Topology mode!
The ZSphere and original mesh were and still are both aligned to X axis at 0 so I don't know what's causing this.
Apologies for the delay. The only thing I can think of that would make it be off is doing retopology with perspective on. If it's still doing it, try using a different zsphere.
Great video, thanks for sharing!
I have Zbrush 4R7 and there is no Topology option, how can I still create edit it to create quads?
I'm using 4R7, as well. The topology option is only available when a zsphere is being used. If it's not available, you may not have a zsphere selected or created. This process has remained largely unchanged since before 4R5.
You can either append a zsphere to your current subtools, or create one as a new project. I prefer creating one as a new project. Follow along from 13:40, and it will get you to where you need to be.
ruclips.net/video/5Fm8d9bqHRE/видео.htmlm40s
I'm always confused about the "correct" workflow with DynaMesh. I normally start with a dynameshed mesh as you do. Then I do some sketching. So far so good. But of course, at some point I run out of polygons to do more details. Now, what should I do next? Divide the mesh more (Ctrl+D)? When I do that, Do I need to re-dynamesh as well? Do I need to increase the dynamesh resolution as well? If I'm loosing details due re-dynamesh, does this mean I've gone too far with my details at this stage/resolution? When should I turn off Dynamesh and use normal mesh? Do you know some resources about his topic? Any hint would be very appreciated! Thx!
+Sven Bardos I'm always going to say that the correct workflow is what works for you. Instead of subdividing, I usually increase the dynamesh resolution. When you subdivide something, bear in mind that the polycount will be multiplied by 4. That may seem like a good idea, at first, but you could end up topology that is difficult to manage.
Adjusting the dynamesh resolution to a higher value when you need more topology is usually a better way to go because dynamesh will do its best to give you more even topology across the surface at a higher frequency.
Usually, I will block in the forms that I'm looking for with dynamesh. Then, I will duplicated the mesh and run it through the Zremesher to get better topology, and subdivide up. But, if you are working with hard surface and simply trying to get forms to retopologize, sticking with dynamesh will probably work better. Just depends on what you're trying to accomplish. Hopefully that answered your question. If not, let me know.
+ZFever Ok, I see. Another question: When to stop working with DynaMesh? Can/Should I keep DynaMesh until end of sculpting including details like wrinkles and pores Or should I switch to normal mesh at some point?
+Sven Bardos You can go that way if you'd like. The problem that happens when you go that way is you will have no subdivision levels. Having those levels will give you more control over the mesh because you won't have to fight with the topology at a high level. Plus, if you are going to be taking this mesh over to a game engine or Maya, you will need topology that can work there.
thank you so helpful
scrubscribed, you're a good teacher man, good pace.
Hey man, I have ran into a problem, my R6 doesn't seem to have ZModuler, I am not sure how to resolve this problem so that I can continue with your awesome tutorial:(
+Rigo Costa Unfortunately, the Zmodeler is a feature of 4R7. The only fix to that is to upgrade, my friend. If you own the license, upgrades are free. Depending on what you are attempting to do, you could get away with transpose modeling. Or, you can take whatever pieces you have, and export them over to another 3D program for modeling.
Thank you for your reply and the tip:)
I will look about upgrading then since I would try to practice the Nanomesh new feature too.
Great Tutorial! Thanks
would you say that this "edit topology" tool works better than the "topology brush" in something like a human face?
You know, I guess it kind of depends on personal preference. You could definitely use the topology brush, and get some pretty decent results. I've always used 3D coat or topogun for that sort of retopology.
If I did go with the topology brush, I think I would polypaint some guides to make quick work of it.
i cannot see the name of what brush you are using @12:50 when retypologizing great videos
+Miles Maiorana The only 3 brushes I'm using here are clay buildup, dam standard, and hPolish. I'll use the dam standard for setting lines in to and off of the surface, then come back through with the hPolish to stamp it back down to clean up the crease. Does that help?
+ZFever yes and thanks awesome video man
Dude Thanks for all the great tips ! It was really helpful
the real key i see is the use of your keyboard shortcuts to the types .. can you customize them to your own shortcut keys on the keyboard?
Tribal Ubizdom You can. Here's a demo on how to do that: ruclips.net/video/Y9c4gCMKRc0/видео.html
And the list of default shortcuts from Pixologic:
docs.pixologic.com/user-guide/keyboard-shortcuts/shortcuts-by-category/
cheers.. keep em rollin
So you're saying that it has to be made piece by piece?
+Jex Trex Essentially, yes. There are some tricks that can minimize things for pieces that most likely won't be seen. These guys put on a pretty good demo that shows a few techniques that can help that effort.
ruclips.net/video/umg_spkkeu0/видео.html
Great tutorial, man.
+Cory Davis Thanks!
There is some hotkey that you press with your keyboard on 2:09 where you have your sphere in purple with the polyframe on and suddenly the sphere becomes gray and completely polished... what hotkey is that??? why does it look so smooth and polished????
+Ricardo Ceron The hot key is shift+F. That activates and deactivates PolyFrame. It just allows us to see the flow of the geometry, and different polygroups that may be assigned to a given piece of geometry. I'll be posting that video response to you, this evening. Took some time to render.
ZFever Thank you for your answer... but even when you se up dynamesh to only 72, when you deactivate the polyframe, why does your sphere look so smooth
+Ricardo Ceron It remained smooth because the resolution I chose was high enough to sustain that level of fidelity. Dynamesh is based on two things: object size and dynamesh resolution. I chose a res of 72 based on experience. I wanted to have enough topology to sculpt and shape without it being too heavy to manage at a primary level.
ZFever So lo res but big size???? how many polygons???
+Ricardo Ceron No, size will dictate resolution. Try it. Create one sphere, and don't adjust the scale. Set the dynamesh resolution down to 16, and look at the polygons. Then, duplicate that sphere, scale up the the duplicate 100% and dynamesh with the same resolution of 16, and you'll see exactly what I mean.
Go to 29:40 for the rant and listen to it at different speeds. Will make your day. ;)
pffft
Awesome video big help, I've seen so many different ways to hard surface and this one is a great tut and by far the best so far.
What button did you tap when you hovered over the axis point to re adjust the symmetry - thanks in advance!
daryl flowers Do you mean around 15:30? If so, I switched between draw mode and move mode, and it fixed the weird offset that I got.
ZFever thank you for the reply, yeah 15:30, I on purpose off set mine by moving the object but then haven't had any success aligning the axis again. I will have to try what you mention - when you moved over the axis it goes a yellow circle about 15:20? Once you complete your project/parts do you dynamesh them all together? Thank again and awesome sculpturing!!
daryl flowers Ok, what you probably need to do in your case is Unify the object. Go to Tool Pallet> Deformation> Unify. That should move your object to the world center.
What happened between 15:20 and 15:30 wasn't anything to do with the mesh. ZBrush was acting a little wonky, and the retop tool lost symmetry somehow. Sometimes it will do that if you are retopologizing with perspective on. I just switched modes from draw to move, and it fixed itself.
Once you are done making all of the pieces, it really depends on the purpose of the entire model. If it's for print, you would likely want to dynamesh them all together at a high enough level to hold the detail. If it is a game asset, you would want to create a low poly version by retopologizing the entire piece so that you can get your normal maps, etc.
Once again thank you!! Much appreciated.
Do you have any videos on print and game assets? Explaining the options and the ways you go about it? If not would you be able to make one?
THis was awesome but even when I follow your instructions step by step thing dont work for me... specially that part when you make those sharp edges ... any advice???
+Ricardo Ceron Hm...so, when you set your crease value, what level are you setting it at on the slider? Keep in mind that if you set it too low, it will bevel out more quickly when you subdivide. Maybe I should have taken a little more time explaining that part.
Are your edges holding in some areas, but not others?
ZFever Yes... its impossible for me to make those sharp edges you seem to do so easily
Nothing is impossible, my friend. If you would like to, post some screenshots of what you are experiencing in the ZFever group. That way, I can have a visual understanding of the results you are getting. I'd also like to see your crease settings.
ZFever Thanks bro... you are awesome
Thank you very much for the tut.
great work! thank you, I have learned alot. The way you think is perfect! :D love it
Thanks Man! Really useful video!
Great video
How to make the edge corner smooth like 25:31 ?
ah found it, you explained it on 22:00
Good tips dude, thanks a whole subdivided bunch!
6:06 I think your subconscious is trying to tell you something.
is it huge ? =]]]]]]]
Nice tuto. thx!
Hey great video. It would be good if you could show how to import a model from zbrush and Rig it in Maya.
Thanks! Rigging is definitely not my strong suit. I can get it done, but it's like pulling teeth.
Thats cool. how about just how to import files from zbrush and continue to work in maya. Just some basics. Anyways thanks for getting back man.
just use the GoZ but u still have to get ur UVW map by hand
hey man great tutoriol your UI is perfect for cintiq , could you share if you dont mind? thank you in adnace
yetkin belasan If you look up the tutorials of redbeard from the gumroad site, its his ui. comes with the tutorials.
How did you do that hotbox thing at 26:42?
+Minoru Kawaguchi That's the menu for the ZModeler brush. So, if you have the ZModeler brush active, and are hovering over a vertex, edge, or face, you can press the space bar, and the corresponding menu will come up.
That's Great Man, Thank You
awesome TY for the tutorial
Stick3563 Thanks for watching! Hope it helps!
this is great! thank you!
great tutorial! thanks for sharing :)
guztaluz Thanks for watching!
love it thanks
Nice Tute . Cheers
you lost me already at 4:12. How does the Move tool warp the mesh? Edit: hold down alt key.
you are awesome!!!!!!! thank you!
coolspart Haha! Thanks!
You might want to use "zremesher guides tool" before using zremesher.
+Rin8Kin Sometimes, yes. You can also trick the zremesher in to giving you topology where you want by using the dam standard to set creases.
hi zfever,how did you do the bevel in 25:32 ?
Hey! So, that is handled by setting the crease level. I explain it at 22:00. Let me know if I need to expand on that a little more.
ruclips.net/video/5Fm8d9bqHRE/видео.htmlm7s
wow,thanks a lot! now I know it!!
I was looking for a normal crack for a long time and stumbled upon yoWay...
so..you just retopo every hard surface bit?
+IGarrettI Basically, yes. A lot can be done with the ZModeler, though. So, its really dependent upon which way is more comfortable to the user. I tend to mix it up. When I have something that is little complex, and I want specific edge flow, I'll sculpt it, and retop.
Is it really worthful working hard surface with Zbrush? I'm practicing hard surface technique in Zbrush so much now. But in most of case, traditional polygon modeling like in maya is 100 times more effective than Zbrush work for hard surface. Making dynamesh form fast ? and retop each of parts for beautiful hard shading? It's completely huge time wasting. If this demonstration is professional job situation, I don't want to use Zbrush for hard surface. So seriously tell me, is there any beneficial aspect for making hard surface object in Zbrush?
Thanks for sharing this :) very helpful .
+joined facebook group !
Djreko Hey, thanks for watching. I'm glad it has been helpful! I'll be going in to Panel Loops, Groups Loops, and custom alphas, next week.
ZFever i'll be looking forward to that :)
you can see some of my works here facebook.com/rakankkraphics?ref=bookmarks
i'll tag your page once i do anything hardsurface soon :) this video gave me a boost
Very cool, man. You have a lot of variety.
finally found
Thank_you for video. Alik
animation and rigging stuff with scripting.. brought me to the dark side of Mayan temples. But ZBrush is cool as secondary tool if you know what are you doing
What ui is this? :D love it
It's one I commandeered from a super awesome artist. I made some of my own tweaks, and it changes as I need it to. It is posted on the ZFever group files section, if you want to try it out and see if it is useful.
facebook.com/groups/1607197016184517/files/
You are awesome. :) Ty
Being honest , there is nothing new here , this is a old technique implemented by Paul Gaboury and utilized by Mike Jensen in his tutorial Hard surface techniques from EAT 3d ... cheerss!!!
Giankarlo2805 This is true, and I do give credit to them. However, we are getting to a point where newcomers to this program may not have the benefit of knowing who those individuals are, and they need information to be successful.
Not everyone can afford to purchase tutorials from EAT 3D, or maintain a subscription to Digital Tutors. While what I have presented here isn't exactly new, it isn't always exactly free in most forms. Thanks for the input!
ZFever Hi I like the tutorial. Thanks. Question: is there a reason why panel loops wouldn't be a time saver and get you the same results as retopologize?
Stephen Brown That's a good point, man. I think it just depends on what the design calls for. Panel loops are great for pulling out quick concepts, and I like using them quite a bit. But, you still have to go back and retop, in the end. So, it's just a matter of what suits you best. I'm all about what works.
werent you the guy who made all those html and css tuts ??? the voice sounds the same
+Ben Zaudio Nah, I'm hardly experienced enough with those things to even waste someone's time, lol.
haha my bad, hey awesome zbrush skills by the way
Thank you.
Why doesn't Zbrush allow the use of a 3D mouse ? That would save a lot of clickety-click-click-click...
It does. I use a tablet, and a tablet monitor. But, I draw hard, and my mic pics up every noise for like 2 miles.
why you are fighting with your keyboard :D
you lost me right in the beginning with that transpose tool deformation by grabbing the middle handle... I would really enjoy the keys you press being shown on screen in your tutorials.
Welcome to every Zbrush tutorial ever!
why does it need thickness?
It needs thickness so that you can set creases on the edges so that that your hard surface panels look like they have some depth, and are crisp.
Thanks. This is the best tutorial for my ZBrush needs, thanks for putting in the work!
I hope you do some tuts for Fusion and Modo someday too, but if those programs are not as useful, that would also be good to know!
Hey, I don't get the green circle for snapping to the center when I'm adding the topology and mirroring- what do I need to do?
May also be affected by perspective like the other question you had about alignment. If that doesn't fix it, try turning on local symmetry. That will move symmetry to read on the object instead of the world origin.
Wait, I love this video because you did your work while talking to us. But what killed me is that you showed the finish project at the end, and just skipped by the work...WHY???
Well, the point wasn't really my sculpt, but the process of turning sculpted surfaces in to clean, hard surface geometry. The process is the same throughout most hard surface sculpts. So, rather than bore people to tears with repetition, I felt that time would be better spent explaining the core process. That pretty much is the work.
ZFever dude I will pay you for a full video of your complete process. BORED??? No sir...how can we the student be bored with something we hope to be great at one day....if you have a full version of this mech development video can you please send me a link to your paid videos or something? Thanks
Unfortunately, I don't have a video of that sculpt. I started that thing when I was still in school, and it was around the time that I completed it that I realized how little information was floating around the net that wasn't just a sped up demo. I would recommend checking out an artist named Mike Jensen. He has a couple of mech tutorial videos that go in to great depth, and were extremely helpful to me when I was studying.
He has quite a bit of stuff here on RUclips, and I learned mostly by watching demos like this: ruclips.net/video/lBYnrlYTnqg/видео.html
But, I'll make it a point to do a mech sculpt within the next week, and record the process.
Yes you are so right about the videos shown on here. Each one was so fast and they also spoke so quick with no passion or detail. Hey also thanks on those links, I will look into them. Mech design seems to take you in a whole different direction in Zbrush. I will look so forward to your next video. And thanks so much again.
14:38
Easier than using zmodeler
Hot vid homie
That 'move' tool has got to be one of the most un-intuitive tools I've ever used in a suite of software...
Yes, but once you get a hang of it, it is extremely useful...especially when it comes to manufacturing applications.
@@TheArtHack I'm very 'new' to ZBrush and sculpters in general, coming from a parametric modeler background.. so it's been a steep learning curve. What was kicking my ass was leaving 'symmetry' on while trying to grab the center node for the 'bend' move. Mentioning it here in case others are having the same issue. Rule to self, "make sure symmetry is off if you don't need it". ;)
@@zaknefain100 Haha! Yep...been there. Still happens from time to time. I regularly accidentally hit "T" for no damn reason, and take myself out of edit mode.
thanks dude i'm working on a cutie asian chick and now i can make her some funky samurai armour
I think you should change your thumbnail that is misguiding to viewers...I thought you are going to give hardsurface tips for Iron man stuff......Although good tut..
+Nidhi thakur I appreciate the concern. Regardless of what I place as the image, the principles stay the same. Thus, the Vader example that I brought up. The idea is to help new users to understand that these techniques can be applied to any hard surface sculpture.
+ZFever Thanks for your reply...I am very new in Zbrush and still I couldn't figure out properly, how to apply this method in Iron man face shield.Should I need to sculpt all face then do topology.Although I am not good in sculpting and in tutorial you haven't sculpt much to justify the model.Its look very easy the example you gave but when I try to apply in any kind of stuff.It is not working that way.This is my opinion...Please don't mind.Perhaps I am not that expert in it.
You have to break it up in to sections, if that makes sense.
ok?)
stop knocking on the fucking tablet!!! I'm sorry great tutorial, it just this knocks are freaking me out.
obviously you are so good , but not so good for me for explain
I'm pretty awful.
is not my intention to be offensive , sometimes i have this problem with some groups of the classes which i make in a university in 3d max.
I'm not offended, man, lol. I was being sarcastic. When I first started making these, I was trying to fill a gap that was lacking on RUclips, at the time. Since then, Pixologic has really done a great job of making educational material for ZBrush.
When you put things out in the public, there is always going to be a critic. And, everyone learns differently, as well. I try to make things as accessible as I understand to make them, but I know there will be something that falls through the cracks.
If there is something that I can help you with, or you are having trouble with, definitely ask because even if I don't have any material regarding what you're looking for, I might be able to point you in a direction that may be helpful.
u talk way to slow and way too much unnecesary information for my taste
It's only unnecessary information to those who don't really need it, or are unwilling to learn. Nevertheless, you found yourself here.
Man you are the best. This video has been a great help! How can I have the quick pick brush like yours? great workstation!
Thank you sir!
+Zradia The quick brush pick.. Not sure if you mean hen you press ''b'' it opens up the menu for all of your brushes which then you can go ahead and click the initial of any brush you want to use that begins with that letter to find it a lot quicker or by pressing ''c + b'' after pressing '''b'' you can select Clay BuildUp brush.
I hope you managed to figure out though since the last time you commented :P