You have just changed an old man’s idea as to how to route a grove. I am seventy years old now and do not have many groves to cut but I always used the straight edge of the router to do that, I now realise that I have been doing it wrong all this time and thank you for putting me right.
using straight edge was a mistake that i realized on the very first cut i made with the router. i always use the curved edge now. even made a round acrylic base plate
Hang on John... I have a question for you.. Think hard...how many times did you mill anything with a router, using the straight edge of the base plate against the fence...that "pinched" or run off or deviated in any way? We all know, or should know, the axis remains constant within a perimeter, but what is put forward here is questionable because their is a highly unlikely cause. If I push a nail through a piece of card before I hammer it home, I am unlikely to end up with bruised or bloody fingers! Likewise, ...if I check the fence, base plate and bit, apply even pressure to the fence at right angles to the cut, and finally make several passes..their are no reasons to expect..or have unexpected run off! A problem that doesn't exist has been created.
I have an old Skil plunge router and in its manual it is specifically advised to give the side of the nut holding the bit a few taps with the wrench. I do the same with my other routers whenever the bit becomes hard to pull out even after having loosened the nut.
having only owned a router less than 2 years I've always used the flat side of the router against the fence ,I've never tried it the other way, its very interesting point you make
The last part you mention about routing direction is most important. If you rout in the proper direction, it's easy to keep the router against the fence, whether it's round or flat. If you rout in the wrong direction, it's more difficult.
Well thank you for that information as well. I'm very early in my woodworking 'career' and I didn't know there was a proper direction to rout. Appreciate it!
I love your videos for so many reasons: 1 Lot of knowledge 2 Love your accent, I am also Spanish, and doing videos in English so I really appreciate the effort 3 Your humour when showing and then correcting "failed" ideas in the video instead of just editing them is genious!!!
Agree with you 100%, I always use the rounded side against a fence for the exact reasons you mention, the flat edge as far as I can tell is only to put the router down for changing the bit.
Not only do I think this is a piece of excellent practical advice, your demo proves the point. Not only that but my web research suggests that nobody actually knows why there is a flat edge. There are all kinds of answers but people seem to disagree, so clearly it's nothing fundamental nor obvious.The use you put it to, chnaging the bit, is the most sensible I've seen. Well done!
If the cutter is really off centre to the base radius, lets say as much as 1mm. Then theoretically rotating the base a whole quarter turn - 90 degrees will make a maximum 1mm deviation. It is easily possible to hold the router within 10 degrees either way to the fence. So this will give a maximum deviation of 1/9th of 1mm = 0.1mm. The theory of using the rounded edge against the stop makes perfect sense even with an eccentric router base. Great use of geometry to increase accuracy & ease of use, well spotted.
Happy to admit that I hadn't thought of this great tip. I've had a wandering groove or two at times due to pinch and have learned something very useful today. Thank you for sharing! 👍
Absolutely 100% correct. Always use the round part of the plate. Minimum point of contact with the fence and the radius keeps the bit central. Great video.
Maybe the flat edge has to do with using the auxiliary fence that comes with some routers? I think it allows you to move the auxiliary fence closer to the bit if you install the fence on that side.
I agree with you on the position of router. I do the same, flat side is supposed to give you better control. So I have been told. It’s a matter of controlling the router... laying router on its side to change the bit makes sense to me.
there is a midpoint marker in the straight edge so you can aim with it when you only have a centerline of the thing you want to clear so you don't have to use measuring. but like you showed, the round side is much easier and without simpel mishaps to mess-up your piece
i got an idea from this video. With controlled movement from straight edge to round edge you can make a decorative cloud or wave groove pattern. The minimum and farthest distance from the fence will be fixed size this way. Then paint this groove. It could be part of a nice signboard.
One possible reason for the flat side is to mount it on a router table ... if you have a recess for the router the shape of a perfect circle it would be VERY DIFFICULT to find the bolt holes from the top ... having the flat portion will allow the router to register in the recess perfectly so that the holes in the router base line up with the holes in the router table surface :) :) :)
@@codigitty9195 plunge routers are commonly used for router tables especially in hobbyist workshops where having a dedicated motor and a separate router lift would be cumbersome and expensive ... Routing out the shape of the plunge router base in a piece of mdf, removing the sub base and mounting the router upside down makes a perfectly good router table ... And having that straight portion makes it very easy to reference and mount it to a table
I tell you what. Sometimes these little tricks or tips or instructional on the basics are beyond awesome for newbies. I am said newbie and was frustrated with both those. 😊
I always use the round side with a straight edge it's more foolproof just as you explained. Even if the base isn't perfectly round as long as you don't purposefully rotate the router while you use it the difference is miniscule . The flat side allows you to rout closer to an obstruction or an edge. Sometimes it's useful to have a smaller effective router base allowing you to rout where you couldn't normally.
I always thought that the straight part just gave me a minimum width to the blade. It makes sense to rout using the full curve when possible and the straight when necessary ... also when mounting upside down in a table the flat side is easy to align.
I make hi end custom rustic furniture for interior designers and movie props you are doing it exactly how it should be. When others want to tell a master craftsman how to use common tools just laugh. I've repaired pieces from others and think, some builders do not need even a hammer so just smile.
I'm just one more ostensibly competent and experienced (and for that matter, professional) carpenter who has learned something new. I can't even say all this hadn't occurred to me; it had but I was just too gormless to change my ways. how dumb is that. Admittedly, I've never had a serious mishap using the "old" method but it has made the job more stressful and demanding and probably slowed me down too Also, I've always changed my bit with the router face-up but now I'll try what surely must be a better way next time. Thank you very much WWDT!
Assuming of course the guide is perfect then the curved edge makes sense but if the guide has imperfections I would suggest using the straight edge otherwise the same imperfections would be transferred to the workpiece due to the minimum point of contact.
Great explanation! Doesn’t mean one method is right or wrong. If you get a straight cut using the round edge, great. But it’s important to understand that you’ll be making a copy of the fence as though it was a template, whereas the two straight faces together minimize the effect of imperfections. I could see either method having its place.
Nice video! My DeWalt router actually has a round base and I often have trouble keeping it stable while I’m changing the bit with it on its side. I think you may be on to something about why the flat spot is there. Keep up the great content!
I think that the router you mention is actually their edge trimmer as it is usually only the smallest types of routers/ trimmers that have purely rounded base plates ( unless it's their optional fixed base ! ) . Hope this helps you out. Maybe research through their catalogues might clear this up.
I actually never thought about it but Its easier to measure from a straight edge to the router bit than a curve of the base and if you are trying to do plunge routing in the middle of the piece instead of a through slot then that would be important to be able to line up accurately.
Thank you for this information i use to make mistake when i route with the straight age , and thank you for releace the bit it was always stuck in my router , thanks
Sometimes a router bit gets stuck so tight that you can't loosen it by only lightly tapping the collet nut. Then it can be done by unscrewing the nut further - it will push out both the bit and the collet.
I don't say it is a mistake. I just ask who knows what is it for. It looks like some people prefer to use the straight edge and for them that is the correct. I prefer to use the curved edge
According to the Ryobi plunge router manual, the flat side of the base goes against the fence. Base orientation is not a safety issue, and both ways work perfectly fine, this is a user preference.
🚣♀️🏴 It has always mystified me. I think you have it making easier changing of bits . Thanks for an interesting video. Peace and love everyone Rick 🍺
Good information, though there are some routers that have a base that is not perfectly centered to the router shaft. This leads to the same problem that a flat side presents. The answer is to minimize rotation of the base when cutting. That is easier with the rounded edge of the base. I've found the even the high-end routers are not always perfectly centered. High price does not mean perfect, better maybe, but not perfect. I've found that to use a flat edge it's better to add a base that has a very long edge to register against the work piece, you still have to deal with a rotation issue when you get to the end of the cut as the straight edge now has no work piece edge to reference against on one side, rounded edge minimizes the drift.
My dewalt is NOT perfectly centered. The variation is minor and I’m pretty sure it has to do with variation introduced in dogging down the motor in the base when I change the height or the base. Always keeping the flat side against the fence would be the best solution - if it had a flat side. As it is, a marker dot and careful routing keep variation within acceptable limits.
murphymb you nailed it. If you are trying to cut a straight line and use the curved edge of the router you have to assume the router shaft and base plate are perfectly centered. If the router shaft and base plate are not perfectly centered, and you rotate the base, you will not end up with a straight line. If you use the square edge of the router base, the shaft and the base plate do not have to be centered, because the distance is constant.
@@cdallen04 you can make the router base concentric. Or I should say make a concentric router base for your router. There's a way of cutting a concentric base with a pin in the collet. The bases that come on routers are often a bit crappy anyways. They kind of expect you to make a better one. Or wear yours out and have to replace it eventually. You can even buy universal bases. They come with an alignment pin to attach them. They're like for if you want to use guide bushings. Some routers don't accept bushings. There's lots of stupid router tricks.
I had always thought the straight side is to save space. If there is an obstacle, a stopped dado will have more extension, saving about an inch. But it seems that stability during bit change is the more obvious reason. But one should try one's best to stick with one point in the circle edge, because the manufacturing of the round base may not be perfect. In fact, some author recommends grinding to make sure the base is truly a circle, not off by even 0.002 inches. Moreover, the subbase may be off by more, as it is not certain that the subbase can be installed perfectly concentric to the base. In Porter-Cable routers (perhaps others), the roundness of the collet nut serves to better ensure that the subbase is concentric to the base. This is a matter to pay attention to. When you see a round part of the collet nut, think about this matter.
It does work just as described, but I almost always have a plexiglass square rounded on the corners screwed to the base and usually use bits with bearings and cut grooves with the table saw a dado stack..
You are correct Colin knecht of wood working web said the same. Would it be a good idea to have a fence on either side? I actually prefer mine on the guide rail. Love your videos and innovation. Your English is superb thanks for translating 👍😎
I assume that is perfectly centred the bit ? Thus why the curve works . I'm not a wood worker just a diy guy. Since is the center of circle will always be equal distance between any point of circle vs center a practical application of a geometry, who knew ?
There is a problem with your reasoning. Using the rounded edge of the router base only works if you are perfectly sure that the plastic base (black part) is exactly centered on the bit. There is some adjustability on most bases because we don't live in a perfect world. If you use the round edge of the router base and rotate the router while cutting you will most likely get a slightly wavy cut. in some instances this may not matter to you but when making dove tail grooves or other fine fitting joints you will run into interference problems. If you learning to use the flat edge of the base properly you will always have the same distance from the edge to the base. If you are having problems keeping the flat edge against the fence you may want to use something that is more uniform and smooth than a rough cut 2x4 such as a piece of aluminum angle or a piece of hardwood.
You have just changed an old man’s idea as to how to route a grove. I am seventy years old now and do not have many groves to cut but I always used the straight edge of the router to do that, I now realise that I have been doing it wrong all this time and thank you for putting me right.
using straight edge was a mistake that i realized on the very first cut i made with the router. i always use the curved edge now. even made a round acrylic base plate
You are an intelligent man and an excellent teacher. Thank you for all your videos
well if your grove has always been straight then you have done your job and so it was always correct for you :)
Me too! Education is a wonderful thing.
Hang on John...
I have a question for you..
Think hard...how many times did you mill anything with a router, using the straight edge of the base plate against the fence...that "pinched" or run off or deviated in any way?
We all know, or should know, the axis remains constant within a perimeter, but what is put forward here is questionable because their is a highly unlikely cause.
If I push a nail through a piece of card before I hammer it home,
I am unlikely to end up with bruised or bloody fingers!
Likewise, ...if I check the fence, base plate and bit, apply even pressure to the fence at right angles to the cut, and finally make several passes..their are no reasons to expect..or have unexpected run off!
A problem that doesn't exist has been created.
Am I the only one that was surprised when he tapped the side of the nut to loosen the bit? That was worth the watch if it works. Thumbs Up
I do something similar to take my bits out of my impact driver.
It’s the “Pickle Jar” method.
I have an old Skil plunge router and in its manual it is specifically advised to give the side of the nut holding the bit a few taps with the wrench. I do the same with my other routers whenever the bit becomes hard to pull out even after having loosened the nut.
You’re the only one 😁 just kidding.
No. Been there, done that.
excellent presentation of an important aspect of a router base that I bet many aren't aware of
@@samueldavis5895 wow
True
One of the most informative and very important how to use videos I've ever watched thank you.
Using the round edge always made more sense to me too! So glad to see someone else gets it.
I'm sure this has made a lot of people think about something they've never even considered before!
just bought my 1st router and feel this video has given me a headstart before i even turn it on. thank you so much.
having only owned a router less than 2 years I've always used the flat side of the router against the fence ,I've never tried it the other way, its very interesting point you make
I envy you - I learned this lesson on my first router project when the edge caught and messed up the whole groove :(
The last part you mention about routing direction is most important. If you rout in the proper direction, it's easy to keep the router against the fence, whether it's round or flat. If you rout in the wrong direction, it's more difficult.
Yes. I was trying to make a nice video and I forgot to pay attention to the routing direction
Well thank you for that information as well. I'm very early in my woodworking 'career' and I didn't know there was a proper direction to rout. Appreciate it!
With this video you have completely changed my router experience. Thank you so much.
I love your videos for so many reasons:
1 Lot of knowledge
2 Love your accent, I am also Spanish, and doing videos in English so I really appreciate the effort
3 Your humour when showing and then correcting "failed" ideas in the video instead of just editing them is genious!!!
Thank you very much. I always make some mistake, so it is part of the making and so I like to show it 😀
Agree with you 100%, I always use the rounded side against a fence for the exact reasons you mention, the flat edge as far as I can tell is only to put the router down for changing the bit.
Not only do I think this is a piece of excellent practical advice, your demo proves the point. Not only that but my web research suggests that nobody actually knows why there is a flat edge. There are all kinds of answers but people seem to disagree, so clearly it's nothing fundamental nor obvious.The use you put it to, chnaging the bit, is the most sensible I've seen. Well done!
People have been telling RUclips viewers this tip for years, where have they been? Thanks for posting the video.
If the cutter is really off centre to the base radius, lets say as much as 1mm. Then theoretically rotating the base a whole quarter turn - 90 degrees will make a maximum 1mm deviation. It is easily possible to hold the router within 10 degrees either way to the fence. So this will give a maximum deviation of 1/9th of 1mm = 0.1mm. The theory of using the rounded edge against the stop makes perfect sense even with an eccentric router base. Great use of geometry to increase accuracy & ease of use, well spotted.
That was wonderfully counterintuitive.
This was so helpful. Great demonstration. Totally did not know this!
Happy to admit that I hadn't thought of this great tip. I've had a wandering groove or two at times due to pinch and have learned something very useful today. Thank you for sharing! 👍
Absolutely 100% correct. Always use the round part of the plate. Minimum point of contact with the fence and the radius keeps the bit central. Great video.
Best router video I've seen. Very informative, thanks.
Maybe the flat edge has to do with using the auxiliary fence that comes with some routers? I think it allows you to move the auxiliary fence closer to the bit if you install the fence on that side.
No, you can't install the fence into that side. Additionally, the fence slides below and past the base allowing it to slide very close to the bit.
I agree with you on the position of router. I do the same, flat side is supposed to give you better control. So I have been told. It’s a matter of controlling the router... laying router on its side to change the bit makes sense to me.
there is a midpoint marker in the straight edge so you can aim with it when you only have a centerline of the thing you want to clear so you don't have to use measuring. but like you showed, the round side is much easier and without simpel mishaps to mess-up your piece
I am surprised about this technique I would have never figured that out it’s nice to get this info. Thank you
i got an idea from this video. With controlled movement from straight edge to round edge you can make a decorative cloud or wave groove pattern. The minimum and farthest distance from the fence will be fixed size this way. Then paint this groove. It could be part of a nice signboard.
One possible reason for the flat side is to mount it on a router table ... if you have a recess for the router the shape of a perfect circle it would be VERY DIFFICULT to find the bolt holes from the top ... having the flat portion will allow the router to register in the recess perfectly so that the holes in the router base line up with the holes in the router table surface :) :) :)
But why would you mount a plunge router to a table?
@@codigitty9195 plunge routers are commonly used for router tables especially in hobbyist workshops where having a dedicated motor and a separate router lift would be cumbersome and expensive ... Routing out the shape of the plunge router base in a piece of mdf, removing the sub base and mounting the router upside down makes a perfectly good router table ... And having that straight portion makes it very easy to reference and mount it to a table
Very good, I will use the rounded side of my router from now on. Thank you.
I tell you what. Sometimes these little tricks or tips or instructional on the basics are beyond awesome for newbies. I am said newbie and was frustrated with both those. 😊
Thanks so much I've been using the straight edge all this time
I always use the round side with a straight edge it's more foolproof just as you explained. Even if the base isn't perfectly round as long as you don't purposefully rotate the router while you use it the difference is miniscule . The flat side allows you to rout closer to an obstruction or an edge. Sometimes it's useful to have a smaller effective router base allowing you to rout where you couldn't normally.
I always thought that the straight part just gave me a minimum width to the blade. It makes sense to rout using the full curve when possible and the straight when necessary ... also when mounting upside down in a table the flat side is easy to align.
Yep. The additional clearance always seemed to be the best explanation.
First class instructional video, thank you.
Thanks, you have made my basic ideas very clear.
I make hi end custom rustic furniture for interior designers and movie props you are doing it exactly how it should be. When others want to tell a master craftsman how to use common tools just laugh. I've repaired pieces from others and think, some builders do not need even a hammer so just smile.
I'm just one more ostensibly competent and experienced (and for that matter, professional) carpenter who has learned something new. I can't even say all this hadn't occurred to me; it had but I was just too gormless to change my ways. how dumb is that. Admittedly, I've never had a serious mishap using the "old" method but it has made the job more stressful and demanding and probably slowed me down too Also, I've always changed my bit with the router face-up but now I'll try what surely must be a better way next time. Thank you very much WWDT!
Perfectly explained and demonstrated. Thank you sir.
It's to help you resist torq when plunging by transfering the energy into the fence and not the user
whoever said use straight edge still have to discover the mysteries of the circle
Assuming of course the guide is perfect then the curved edge makes sense but if the guide has imperfections I would suggest using the straight edge otherwise the same imperfections would be transferred to the workpiece due to the minimum point of contact.
Great explanation! Doesn’t mean one method is right or wrong. If you get a straight cut using the round edge, great. But it’s important to understand that you’ll be making a copy of the fence as though it was a template, whereas the two straight faces together minimize the effect of imperfections. I could see either method having its place.
Most good routers have a centering tool available as an accessory. It's necessary for centering the base when using guide bushings.
Great explanation and demonstration.Keep them coming.
Absolutely correct my friend.
Dankeschön für deine Tipps 👍 ich habe etwas dazu gelernt 😎 ich wünsche dir und deiner Familie gute und gesunde Ostertage 🐇
I never thought of it either. Thanks for this. Makes a lot of sense.
Great video. Thank you, and very relevant for a new wood-worker; now I won't have to make that mistake in the future!
Whow very good tip!! Thanks! From now on i will always use the router this way!!
great definition well done... your channel is always informative..
First class explanation! Thank you
That's some I didn't know I knew, thank you. Well explained
Masterfully explained, thank you
Nice video! My DeWalt router actually has a round base and I often have trouble keeping it stable while I’m changing the bit with it on its side. I think you may be on to something about why the flat spot is there. Keep up the great content!
I think that the router you mention is actually their edge trimmer as it is usually only the smallest types of routers/ trimmers that have purely rounded base plates ( unless it's their optional fixed base ! ) . Hope this helps you out. Maybe research through their catalogues might clear this up.
I actually never thought about it but Its easier to measure from a straight edge to the router bit than a curve of the base and if you are trying to do plunge routing in the middle of the piece instead of a through slot then that would be important to be able to line up accurately.
Thanks for the tip Sergio. I love your videos, keep it up!
Thank you for this information i use to make mistake when i route with the straight age , and thank you for releace the bit it was always stuck in my router , thanks
Sometimes a router bit gets stuck so tight that you can't loosen it by only lightly tapping the collet nut. Then it can be done by unscrewing the nut further - it will push out both the bit and the collet.
I don't say it is a mistake. I just ask who knows what is it for. It looks like some people prefer to use the straight edge and for them that is the correct. I prefer to use the curved edge
Good reminder of why we learned high-school geometry
According to the Ryobi plunge router manual, the flat side of the base goes against the fence. Base orientation is not a safety issue, and both ways work perfectly fine, this is a user preference.
Ok. Good to know :)
I was just waiting for a manual comment. Thanks!
Excellent explanation!
Thank you so much. This has really helped me.
Thank you for your Tip...Greetings from us in Holland 🌷🌷
Great tip. Thanks for posting. Proper knowledge
Good job brother!
I agree with you completely. Just got a new SKIL router and the fixed base is round, and the plunge base has the flat side. Hmm.
Very good explanation and clearly logical now known thanks for video.
Good job. That was very clear and you are right. Thanks for sharing.
Never a bad video!
🚣♀️🏴 It has always mystified me. I think you have it making easier changing of bits . Thanks for an interesting video. Peace and love everyone Rick 🍺
Thank you for this very informative presentation and it's been well explained....more power to your video tutorial !!!
Great vid, excellent info and explanation!!! Thanks for sharing!!! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I've been puzzled over that one myself
Nice video, thanks for sharing
You got a sub for this.
This is true if the bit is centered in the base. It is often slightly askew. So turning the base can cause slight changes (like a cam).
DO YOU KNOW how I've wondered about that straight edge, and whether to use it or the round side?? Thank you!!
It looks like nobody knows for sure what is it for :)
Good information, though there are some routers that have a base that is not perfectly centered to the router shaft. This leads to the same problem that a flat side presents. The answer is to minimize rotation of the base when cutting. That is easier with the rounded edge of the base. I've found the even the high-end routers are not always perfectly centered. High price does not mean perfect, better maybe, but not perfect. I've found that to use a flat edge it's better to add a base that has a very long edge to register against the work piece, you still have to deal with a rotation issue when you get to the end of the cut as the straight edge now has no work piece edge to reference against on one side, rounded edge minimizes the drift.
My dewalt is NOT perfectly centered. The variation is minor and I’m pretty sure it has to do with variation introduced in dogging down the motor in the base when I change the height or the base. Always keeping the flat side against the fence would be the best solution - if it had a flat side. As it is, a marker dot and careful routing keep variation within acceptable limits.
murphymb you nailed it. If you are trying to cut a straight line and use the curved edge of the router you have to assume the router shaft and base plate are perfectly centered. If the router shaft and base plate are not perfectly centered, and you rotate the base, you will not end up with a straight line. If you use the square edge of the router base, the shaft and the base plate do not have to be centered, because the distance is constant.
@@cdallen04 you can make the router base concentric. Or I should say make a concentric router base for your router. There's a way of cutting a concentric base with a pin in the collet. The bases that come on routers are often a bit crappy anyways. They kind of expect you to make a better one. Or wear yours out and have to replace it eventually. You can even buy universal bases. They come with an alignment pin to attach them. They're like for if you want to use guide bushings. Some routers don't accept bushings. There's lots of stupid router tricks.
Brilliant explanation, thank you.
Can't argue with your logic
Good demonstration. 👍🏻
Me acabo de enterar de que tienes un canal en inglés, que grande 🔥
Smart, common sense. A good example of not blindly believing whst you hear 🙉 or are told 🗣
I had always thought the straight side is to save space. If there is an obstacle, a stopped dado will have more extension, saving about an inch.
But it seems that stability during bit change is the more obvious reason.
But one should try one's best to stick with one point in the circle edge, because the manufacturing of the round base may not be perfect. In fact, some author recommends grinding to make sure the base is truly a circle, not off by even 0.002 inches.
Moreover, the subbase may be off by more, as it is not certain that the subbase can be installed perfectly concentric to the base. In Porter-Cable routers (perhaps others), the roundness of the collet nut serves to better ensure that the subbase is concentric to the base. This is a matter to pay attention to. When you see a round part of the collet nut, think about this matter.
I think you are right that the straight edge is for changing blade...nice observation
What an excellently informative video. VMT
Awesome video
Awesome point. Excellent Point of advice
Wow, thank you so much , I’ve been doing it wrong
Well presented arguments in a well made video.
It does work just as described, but I almost always have a plexiglass square rounded on the corners screwed to the base and usually use bits with bearings and cut grooves with the table saw a dado stack..
You are correct Colin knecht of wood working web said the same. Would it be a good idea to have a fence on either side? I actually prefer mine on the guide rail. Love your videos and innovation. Your English is superb thanks for translating 👍😎
Super explained !!!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
As always, excellent. Many thanks.😷
Very informative.
Thanks for the explanation. Keep it up.
I have always wondered about that! Awesome!
Of course you are right!
Good job. Thanks.
Great tips! Gracias👍✌️😊🙏🏼🛠🛠🛠
Excelente video Mr. Sos un Crack..
Very good video. Keep up the good work.👍👍🇨🇦☕
thank you, this is very helpfull
I assume that is perfectly centred the bit ? Thus why the curve works . I'm not a wood worker just a diy guy. Since is the center of circle will always be equal distance between any point of circle vs center a practical application of a geometry, who knew ?
There is a problem with your reasoning. Using the rounded edge of the router base only works if you are perfectly sure that the plastic base (black part) is exactly centered on the bit. There is some adjustability on most bases because we don't live in a perfect world. If you use the round edge of the router base and rotate the router while cutting you will most likely get a slightly wavy cut. in some instances this may not matter to you but when making dove tail grooves or other fine fitting joints you will run into interference problems. If you learning to use the flat edge of the base properly you will always have the same distance from the edge to the base. If you are having problems keeping the flat edge against the fence you may want to use something that is more uniform and smooth than a rough cut 2x4 such as a piece of aluminum angle or a piece of hardwood.
But that is moot if you have correctly centered the bit in the base.
I have four routers. All of them was centered correct from the factory.