Raise your heater up higher than the end of the exhaust so that condensation can run out and not settle in the lower parts of your exhaust and cause you blockage and then it won't start and run.I found that out the hard way. Just Raise your heater at least 1 inch or so above the end. 30 to 40 millimeters.
That was going to be my text raising that heater up above the copper pipe so that the water wouldn't settle in that steel tube The copper can handle it
I need to have exhaust running out of the basement 1,5meters above the heater, only hole in the wall, no way i can raise the heater above it. I can't run the heater in this space?
@@BeyondWrittenWordsyou can. Just modify it so there's a place where water can be drained.you can run the pipe across and on an angle down to an intersect box with a drain. From the box go up and out. Check the box once a week, drain it, until you figure out the amount of condensation but it might vary depending on things like relative humidity. If your careful you could probably use a tin with a lid or something with a screw top might be safer. That all being said if the distance is very small and the exhaust remains above 220 I doubt you'd need a place for condensation as the the water will remain vapor
whenever you lengthen or increase overall restriction of an exhaust system, you should increase the size of the pipe. The reason is you need the unit to be able to freely push at its design capacity.. if you start building back pressure it will effect operation. Gas furnaces have a pipe sizing chart we use to determine the pipe sizing. two things increase it, size of the unit and length or run (and number of elbows)
As a Eberspacher installer for 20 years, anything over 3 meters, you need to increase the diameter of the exhaust to 30mm. They make adapters to fit the exhaust on the bottom of the heater, they are 90 degree adapters, top tip look for the ones with the drain bolt
There are baseboard radiators like this that are perfect for this application (because they have heat exchange fins) and a better fit for using the exhaust as a secondary heat source than the square radiator you were using. The square radiator hooked up to the exhaust was also not allowing the heater to breath easily.
I looked into the idea of using the finned radiator tube to captrure more heat but the ones I find are only 3/4" diameter and that would be too much resistance for the combustion fan in a long run. I'm still looking for something with a larger inlet and outlet for my project.
Pass it through an old radiator and put a fan behind it to recover the maximum heat or put the radiator over the fresh air intake to preheat the incoming air and increase the heater efficiency.
if you preheat incoming air you risk damaging the electronics which need to be cooled or if the electronics are elsewhere you risk blocking the heater X high temperature...efficiency does not increase because the ∆t is the same
i heat my shed with one of those, and been doing it for years. I bought another to heat my house. I ran the exhaust 8 m of 25mm to try to capture that heat. My machine ran for 2 days then failed to ignite. I took the unit apart and the combustion chamber was packed with carbon. Its back up and running with the stock exhaust.
Hey Jason, probably discovered this already, but if the exhaust is to long like 2m or more you'll lose the back pressure needed to aid combustion, leading to non ignition or white smoke causing coking and exhaust blocking with fluid, mine actually blow the internal gasket causing fumes to leak and stink my house out. Great video mr fireblade, I'm a suzuki man myself.
You will find using a corrugated exhaust that there is more resistance to the gasses flowing due to vortexes caused by the corrugations. You will be able to use a longer pipe with a smooth bore no problem, only thing to bear in mind is if you start putting joints and bends on the copper pipe, this can drastically change the flow and ability to exhaust gasses. It’s a great way of utilising heat that would otherwise be lost. Have a look at making a sand battery by boxing in the exhaust pipe and filling the box with dry sand, this will work like a night storage heater then releasing the heat slowly even when the heater is off. 👍
Mitsubishi starion intercooler works awesome with a 12v computer case fan to force air through for heat extraction. Air exiting is roughly 15-25° F higher than ambient.
Copper isn't used for exhaust pipes for several reason. Cost would be the main factor small bore pipes are relatively inexpensive however the larger the more expensive. As it is a smooth metal it helps keep the resonance level up thus making a louder sound say over mild steel, thus it used for the making of musical instruments. Copper gives off toxic fumes when heated high enough some lovely toxins can also be given off as well such at Arsenic Lead & Cadmium. We all know Arsenic is lethal. however Cadmium is a class 1 Human Carcinogen and has been banned from scientific research for years. A lethal dose is between 9 - 12 mg/m3.
What are you basing the release of toxins on? They have copper cookware and copper heat exchangers? Houses are also plumbed in copper. At what temp would someone need to be concerned for toxin release? He isn’t smelting copper ore? Not being difficult just trying to get an answer!
Made the same exhaust using 1inch EMT PIPE 10ft along the floor with 8ft run up a wall to exhaust out It provides radiant heat Beware the exhaust does create carbonic acid which will erode metal eventually
A lot of people don't understand that the red rotating disc that provides the air for combustion is not a fan it is a vortex compressor that provides relatively higher pressure often in the 1- 4psi range (used by many fish pool aerator systems).
@@andyfireblade Its a relativly new technology from the 1970' where each blade or !paddle" causes the air to spin in the adjacent cavity ont to the next paddle - each vortex bilds on the next building up the pressure the gap between the spinner and cavity has to be minimal to prevent leaking.
This is a good setup and helpful. If you want to capture more heat coming off of the copper run, clamp one or two larger copper pipes above the exhaust pipe. Thanks for taking the time.
Run the copper pipe through the centre of a 6" round sheet metal heat duct. Place a blower fan on one end of the duct to capture a bit more of the heat being lost to the outside through the exhaust.Should also help cool the copper pipe.
Andy get some black bbq spray and spray the copper in a few areas lightly and tells us what temps you are getting along the lenght also id raise the pipe as it comes out of the heater to just a bit higher that where it exits the wall cos the copper started off cold so ya will get a lot more condensation
I run the stock bit coiled up with fan blowing on it.. slope is always downward. From the "muffler" is change from 1 inch to 1-1/2 copper or 2" stainless auto exhaust to eliminate back pressure. This can be literally any length but my longest is 2 meters. Do NOT let the exhaust touch the floor! If you must, lift the unit so that the downward slope and no touch is observed.
I found long exhaust causes sooting up unless you increase the diameter I also use 28 sec heating oil as it burns a lot cleaner and now I don’t need to clean the heater And it’s lot more reliable I use mine daily in the winter
100% positive here , that the actual heater itself must be raised up so as to create a downward flow of exhaust gasses and thus a run out of condensation as well . I am in Canada where the temp. drops to as low as - 54 degrees C ... often - 25 to -35 C for weeks in a row . I run my generator / my wood stoves / and soon to be 2 of these wonderful heaters into sealed 45 gallon drums and then exhaust the waste gasses , as this creates a heat exchanger system , but " Please make Sure" , the exhaust areas are extremely well sealed ... the barrels are extremely well sealed ... the process is to exhaust enter into the top of a barrel or 2 stacked and let the heat and exhaust fill up the barrel(s) , then at 1/3 of the way from the bottom of the barrel , you create the new exhaust port to an outside location ... been 100% off grid for 8 years now and this system works wonderful for less fuel costs and less waste heat . T>>>...
That's a brilliant idea. Obviously you're using a metal barrel,right? I think I might do this, I'm off grid in my large 40ft fifth wheel. I have wrapped a skirt of 1.5in foam around the sides and I have a 300gallon water tank under the front fifth wheel overhang and since it's wrapped in foam, it keeps from freezing. I might put a 55gallon barrel next to it for my diesel heater exhaust to extract the extra heat and help keep my under RV from freezing and my water tanks from freezing.
Andy if you shroud that pipe with storage heater bricks you will increase the efficiency .and harness more heat .I got my heater today and used an XBOX power pack to run it works a treat .
The copper is turning colors due to oxidation on the surface. This is called a patina. In most cases, this happens in normal atmospheric temperatures and conditions, and it's the familiar greenish color. This is happening under extreme heat, causing the oxides that form to be of a different chemistry and therefore different color. This patina gets thicker the longer the metal stays heated, which also influences the color.
It looks like you could use a 6 feet length of 2 1/4" ID vehicle exhaust bent into an inverted U shape with reducing bells at each end of the U to use as a radiator and recover exhaust heat usually lost from the diesel heater. The inverted U shaped radiator likely would be condensing on the downward path leg and need a drain slope for the horizontal L leg through wall to the outside as condensate drain. The phase change for the vapor condensing dumps considerable heat and the most efficient furnaces are engineered to be condensing furnaces to use that extra heat indoors instead losing it to atmosphere outdoors in the exhaust. Years ago I think it was Coleman and some others sold a through the wall condensing kerosene furnace that was so efficient that metal piping was not required for the exhaust cooled down far enough to use PVC and the condensate would be dripping from the end of the plastic exhaust pipe.
Thank you for showing me that it works because I'm going to use steel pipe and run it up my chimney where I can put my heater in the fireplace that way it will win it up out of the house
I'm seriously impressed by how hot it is so far from the heater. Must be very wasteful then in a truck situation. Don't leave the battery on a cold concrete floor. I don't know the reason but the cold will kill the battery. Put a piece of wood or something under it for the insulation.
The battery uses a chemical reaction to produce electricity, this reaction can only perform within a specific temperature range, if the temperature falls either side of the perimeter the battery gets damaged. I think that most batteries have a limited lifetime, capable of a number of cycles
@@stevenclarke5606 if you keep the battery on a trickle charger + 6 amps minimum, the battery will last forever (my current setup is ticking over 8 years). Cycling down to nothing and recharging is the killer
Roof Gutter and sand. Get a piece of roof gutter. Fill half of the gutter up with dry sand. Place the exhaust pipe in center of gutter and fill the remainder of the gutter up with sand to the top. Just maybe, the gutter-sand exhaust guard will protect you or animals from getting burned and the guard would act like a passive heat sink?
Just got one for my shed workshop. Nice n toastie. I have it on full whack for 10 mins, then can put it to 1 - 2 settings to keep the temp. I got a Hull exhaust exit to put it safely through the shed wall, but so far worth every penny.
Hi Andy. Great video and just up my street. Have a CDH in our Sprinter Campervan, and now going to put one into our lounge in the house. Using a 'Y' piece splitter two lengths of copper pipe would make a very effective 'radiator' or even solder together a 4 way split at each end then into the exhaust...Have a fall on the pipe to allow water vapour condensate to drain out of the exhaust. Thanks again. Tony and Carolyn. :)
If you burn kerosene, note that it will not lubricate the pulse pump as diesel does, with the result your pump will suffer premature wear. Why not register with a local fuel supplier and burn red diesel which will be cheaper and can be used for domestic heating?
Loads of comments for you, but you could run that pipe through some sand and make a thermal store (Sand Battery) plus from looking at other vids you can mix chip fat oil in and it'll run, the chip fat just needs filtering of course.. Top work
Spray your copper pipe with Matt black heat proof paint that would be used on a woodburning stove and your laser. Thermal temperature gauge should work a lot better. Cheers Derek
Wow, I was amazed that the copper glowed red! This means you could use steel tube and a much wider diameter which will be less restrictive and if soot does build up it would be so much easier to clean out. Using steel tube will also last for years but copper glowing red hot will soon disintegrate, not melt but copper turns to powder of a relatively short amount of time.
@@seeker1015 It is not a case of thinking it glowed red it actually did glow red. What is your problem don't you know copper gets red hot which means it glows red and when copper glows red hot it oxidizes. If I were you I wouldn't bother trying to argue a way out of this just keep quiet and move on or you will end up embarrassing yourself even more.
@@Moonlightshadow-lq4fr if, as you say it glowed red, can you point out at which time on the video it was most obvious? I've worked with copper enough times in my 70 years to know what red hot looks like.
@@Moonlightshadow-lq4frUm, doesn't my last reply imply that? I've annealed enough copper pipe to know what red hot is and you haven't given me the minute and seconds on this video when it appears, to you, to be red hot.
The small weep hole in the bottom of the “muffler” is to allow condensation out…leave yourself a wee bit of room in the event you have to replace the muffler.
@@andyfireblade I did watch some yes Andy. To include seeing that you clearly understood the purpose of the weep hole long before my two cents!! 🤣🤣 I think this system will be my go to heat for my garage, even if I need two and gang plumb them. I’m tired of fighting with that dang pellet stove!! Thanks for great content.
Really? Tell us more about these ‘toxic fumes’. Better not use copper saucepans, etc? What are these chemical reactions, precisely? Let’s not be making these unsubstantiated scaremongering comments that are clearly not true.
@@oliver90owner its when it oxidises temperatures commonly used for oxidation of Cu are in the range of 200 °C-900 °C the exhaust gets hotter than 200 .this is taken from the cdc Human data: Exposure to copper fume causes upper respiratory tract irritation, metallic taste, nausea, and metal fume fever
@@gazbullen I’m not yet convinced. The surface temperature of my copper bottomed saucepans regularly exceed the generally accepted CDH exhaust temperature of circa 300 Celsius (gas flame temperature, for instance). That may produce some copper oxide (but is generally in a fairly reducing atmosphere, of course). However the usual valency copper oxide is Cu II. Cupric oxide is a very stable compound, only melting at over 1000 Celsius, so what exactly are you talking about? Certainly copper salts can be toxic - often used in proprietary wood preservatives. Go on, tell us something real about these mysterious toxins. Your “toxic fumes” precisely, as both copper and cupric oxide appear to be fairly unreactive at exhaust temperature. As the air is about 98% of oxygen and nitrogen, that may lead to some thought of copper nitride formation? If it does, forget it! The only risk of a copper exhaust is that of acidic condensation within the pipe and some copper salts being lost to the surroundings. Most certainly not a fume by any description.
@@oliver90owner im not gonna keep going on about it as you seem to know all my info come from a DH forum when asked about copper as a exhaust ....."Copper isn't used for exhaust pipes for several reason. Cost would be the main factor small bore pipes are relatively inexpensive however the larger the more expensive. As it is a smooth metal it helps keep the resonance level up thus making a louder sound say over mild steel, thus it used for the making of musical instruments. Copper gives off toxic fumes when heated high enough some lovely toxins can also be given off as well such at Arsenic Lead & Cadmium. We all know Arsenic is lethal. however Cadmium is a class 1 Human Carcinogen and has been banned from scientific research for years. A lethal dose is between 9 - 12 mg/m3." thats all im saying on the matter end off
Yes m8 I know copper pipe has gone up but I have a big roll of exhaust wrap to save spraying as exhaust wrap I think it will be better m8 as I only live in Stourbridge west midlands if you need some
thanks, thats really kind of you.... cheers thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
hi keith thanks for the tip. i have just done another video, and done just that! i will upload that tomorrow. just putting a new vid on today, when i wrecked the heater. on soon.... kind regards andy
I think they'll more likely make them illegal one day because of dangerous installs. These all-in-ones should be outside with the heat pumped into the space to be heated. No part of the exhaust should be in the living/working place; it's not a failsafe install if it is. Of course there's a lot of energy/heat to be recovered from the exhaust but there are far safer ways of doing this.
It already illigal in many places. U can buy them but not use diesel or waste oil in them and its wont run on anything else. But who cares. Start with the so called celeberties that use a private jet for a 15 minute flight.
The heater will need to be raised so that all the water will drain out of those exhaust tubes to the outside of the house and not sit in there water setting in a pipe will collect the carbon
I think that once we figure out how much carbon is going to end up in that copper tube that putting sand around it might be a good idea for a sand battery
The colour of the copper nearest to the hot end is oxidisation. It will become annealed and will be quite soft. If you put copper into an open flame the flame will turn green. Copper work hardens when bent or hammered. BTW, condensation is normal when you burn hydrocarbon fuels. Part of there exhaust is carbon dioxide and water. Believe it or not if you burn a litre of petrol, about 1 litre of water is produced. Some of these heaters run on 12V, 24V and mains voltage. Personally I'd avoid the mains and use a battery and a transformer.
To get better life out of your heater and for keep your system clean sixty percent diesel Twenty karasine He should have used a water baseboard heating It's made out of copper and you could have used it as an exhaust
you could add a sand heat exchanger battery type afair to this set up , instead of a long copper pipe get a copper coil put it in some kind of metal bucket or drum filled with sand or you could rig it up to a big tub of water and run a radiator off it ..............i see from older videos you already tried this LOL
It'd be worth running the exhaust pipe through bricks. Maybe you can even find bricks with the right sized holes? Then the bricks would act a bit like a storage heater after the Webasto is switched off.
This would defo be a good idea, my exhaust is a single 5m long webasto one strapped to the house block work, after a day on low every brick is warm to touch
Is it best to drill through the middle of one brick or the mortar/corner of 4 bricks when going through a garage wall? I'll be using the standard length of exhaust pipe, just worried about the heat damaging the wall.
Me personally I would drill through the brick, but make the hole a bit wider diameter than the pipe to reduce conduction. II doubt you'd get any problems from the heat though, bricks are after all used in furnaces. @@steveclark..
@@mutantthegreat7963 Thanks. I'm going to buy a slightly bigger drill bit and will probably drill through the mortar/corner of bricks so that the stainless steel covering plate that I'm making, those 4 screws have a brick to go into. If there is any heat transfer then at least it's spread to 3 or 4 bricks rather than just one is what I'm thinking. If it's just one, maybe it could crack in half is my concern. My plan could change though, I've not even mounted the heater itself so depending on where it sits and how long the pipe is, dictates where I drill through.
i think it may be better to make and add a three copper pipe ( like a fork ) at the begining of original 1mtr exhaust so it will not slown the exit of gas from the machine also more heated copper pipes ? (( Z shape bends not L shape ))
This has been mentioned before. The reading you are getting are not reliable as you need to point it a non shiny surface, you need a few spots of blackboard paint to get a reliable readings.
This was very inspiring as I'm planning on setting one up in my van, the bonus for me was the kerosene for your heater, could the engine of this heater handle that? While we're at it, could my van's engine burn Kerosene too?
thank you for your comment yes kerosene is fine to use, did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
@@andyfireblade Thank you for taking the time and putting all this together, I'm sure its helpful information for many people out there, especially during these challenging times when alternative solutions are a necessity and a matter of survival, as the cold weather is like a deadly poison for some of us suffering with health conditions.
@@califranky merry christmas, thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
wonder if the operating temp of the heater changes with this "mod", you can check that on the controller. i plan on doing this before winter rolls around again. Could the color change along the copper pipe be from different temp zones along the pipe. love to see some temps
Have you seen them things called rocket mass hearts I was wondering how the diesel heater would work to make the cob bench with the sand battery to help contain some of the exhaust pipe heat
Putting a potato into the exhaust of your car/bike will make it heat up quicker thereby saving fuel. What could possibly go wrong ? This is effectively what you are doing adding radiators and long lengths of pipe to your diesel exhaust. The instructions say to ONLY use the supplied length of exhaust pipe for a reason. If you wish to do such things you need to go into a larger diameter pipe and seal it with something that can withstand 2/300 degrees C.
yeah, i know what you mean. hahahahah. and i agree that it would be better when using a longer exhaust, it would also be better to use a bigger diameter. good comment , regards andy and thanks for looking in!
yes , i like to use the kerosene. and its more pure, your right. thanks for looking in on my videos. did you see the one where i have one of these heaters heating my house? its on right now! www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade cheers andy
@@stevenlarratt3638 hello my friend we have not had pump failure due to the thinner kerosene fuel. the kerosene is a cleaner burn, thinner. it is a slightly cooler burn. but i highly recommend using it. its the cheapest i have found. stay warm this winter andy
Raise your heater up higher than the end of the exhaust so that condensation can run out and not settle in the lower parts of your exhaust and cause you blockage and then it won't start and run.I found that out the hard way. Just Raise your heater at least 1 inch or so above the end. 30 to 40 millimeters.
That was going to be my text raising that heater up above the copper pipe so that the water wouldn't settle in that steel tube The copper can handle it
You are 100% correct, burning carbon based fuel creates moisture, and along with the particulates with cause a buildup and restriction.
I need to have exhaust running out of the basement 1,5meters above the heater, only hole in the wall, no way i can raise the heater above it. I can't run the heater in this space?
@@BeyondWrittenWordsyou can. Just modify it so there's a place where water can be drained.you can run the pipe across and on an angle down to an intersect box with a drain. From the box go up and out. Check the box once a week, drain it, until you figure out the amount of condensation but it might vary depending on things like relative humidity. If your careful you could probably use a tin with a lid or something with a screw top might be safer. That all being said if the distance is very small and the exhaust remains above 220 I doubt you'd need a place for condensation as the the water will remain vapor
THANKS!!
whenever you lengthen or increase overall restriction of an exhaust system, you should increase the size of the pipe. The reason is you need the unit to be able to freely push at its design capacity.. if you start building back pressure it will effect operation. Gas furnaces have a pipe sizing chart we use to determine the pipe sizing. two things increase it, size of the unit and length or run (and number of elbows)
true
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
As a Eberspacher installer for 20 years, anything over 3 meters, you need to increase the diameter of the exhaust to 30mm. They make adapters to fit the exhaust on the bottom of the heater, they are 90 degree adapters, top tip look for the ones with the drain bolt
good point , i will look into that
thanks a lot andy
what difference would that make when the exhaust port remains the same size?
@@deer8730 in easy terms, it's easier to blow in a big tube than a smaller one
There are baseboard radiators like this that are perfect for this application (because they have heat exchange fins) and a better fit for using the exhaust as a secondary heat source than the square radiator you were using. The square radiator hooked up to the exhaust was also not allowing the heater to breath easily.
Slantfin hot water baseboard. slantfin.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/MultiPak-80-Catalog-Sheet-718.pdf
I looked into the idea of using the finned radiator tube to captrure more heat but the ones I find are only 3/4" diameter and that would be too much resistance for the combustion fan in a long run. I'm still looking for something with a larger inlet and outlet for my project.
Pass it through an old radiator and put a fan behind it to recover the maximum heat or put the radiator over the fresh air intake to preheat the incoming air and increase the heater efficiency.
if you preheat incoming air you risk damaging the electronics which need to be cooled or if the electronics are elsewhere you risk blocking the heater X high temperature...efficiency does not increase because the ∆t is the same
i heat my shed with one of those, and been doing it for years. I bought another to heat my house. I ran the exhaust 8 m of 25mm to try to capture that heat. My machine ran for 2 days then failed to ignite. I took the unit apart and the combustion chamber was packed with carbon. Its back up and running with the stock exhaust.
hey jason
thanks for sharing that
cheers andy hny
Hey Jason, probably discovered this already, but if the exhaust is to long like 2m or more you'll lose the back pressure needed to aid combustion, leading to non ignition or white smoke causing coking and exhaust blocking with fluid, mine actually blow the internal gasket causing fumes to leak and stink my house out.
Great video mr fireblade, I'm a suzuki man myself.
You will find using a corrugated exhaust that there is more resistance to the gasses flowing due to vortexes caused by the corrugations. You will be able to use a longer pipe with a smooth bore no problem, only thing to bear in mind is if you start putting joints and bends on the copper pipe, this can drastically change the flow and ability to exhaust gasses. It’s a great way of utilising heat that would otherwise be lost. Have a look at making a sand battery by boxing in the exhaust pipe and filling the box with dry sand, this will work like a night storage heater then releasing the heat slowly even when the heater is off. 👍
great comment
thanks mate
cheers andy
Mitsubishi starion intercooler works awesome with a 12v computer case fan to force air through for heat extraction. Air exiting is roughly 15-25° F higher than ambient.
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
Copper isn't used for exhaust pipes for several reason. Cost would be the main factor small bore pipes are relatively inexpensive however the larger the more expensive. As it is a smooth metal it helps keep the resonance level up thus making a louder sound say over mild steel, thus it used for the making of musical instruments. Copper gives off toxic fumes when heated high enough some lovely toxins can also be given off as well such at Arsenic Lead & Cadmium. We all know Arsenic is lethal. however Cadmium is a class 1 Human Carcinogen and has been banned from scientific research for years. A lethal dose is between 9 - 12 mg/m3.
good comment thanks
What are you basing the release of toxins on? They have copper cookware and copper heat exchangers? Houses are also plumbed in copper. At what temp would someone need to be concerned for toxin release? He isn’t smelting copper ore? Not being difficult just trying to get an answer!
Made the same exhaust using 1inch EMT PIPE 10ft along the floor with 8ft run up a wall to exhaust out
It provides radiant heat
Beware the exhaust does create carbonic acid which will erode metal eventually
cool, sound great.
did you see my other heater vids,
www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
let me know what you think,
cheers andy
A lot of people don't understand that the red rotating disc that provides the air for combustion is not a fan it is a vortex compressor that provides relatively higher pressure often in the 1- 4psi range (used by many fish pool aerator systems).
thats interesting, cheers andy
@@andyfireblade Its a relativly new technology from the 1970' where each blade or !paddle" causes the air to spin in the adjacent cavity ont to the next paddle - each vortex bilds on the next building up the pressure the gap between the spinner and cavity has to be minimal to prevent leaking.
This is a good setup and helpful. If you want to capture more heat coming off of the copper run, clamp one or two larger copper pipes above the exhaust pipe. Thanks for taking the time.
thanks for looking.
Thanks for the tips!
cherrs andy
You have to upsize the pipe for the exhaust. Because it’s designed to run with the link that they give you.
Run the copper pipe through the centre of a 6" round sheet metal heat duct.
Place a blower fan on one end of the duct to capture a bit more of the heat being lost to the outside through the exhaust.Should also help cool the copper pipe.
Great idea
thanks , and thanks for looking
did your see my other heater videos
www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
let me know what you think
cheers andy
Andy get some black bbq spray and spray the copper in a few areas lightly and tells us what temps you are getting along the lenght also id raise the pipe as it comes out of the heater to just a bit higher that where it exits the wall cos the copper started off cold so ya will get a lot more condensation
I run the stock bit coiled up with fan blowing on it.. slope is always downward. From the "muffler" is change from 1 inch to 1-1/2 copper or 2" stainless auto exhaust to eliminate back pressure. This can be literally any length but my longest is 2 meters. Do NOT let the exhaust touch the floor! If you must, lift the unit so that the downward slope and no touch is observed.
I found long exhaust causes sooting up unless you increase the diameter I also use 28 sec heating oil as it burns a lot cleaner and now I don’t need to clean the heater And it’s lot more reliable I use mine daily in the winter
good idea, diameter. thanks andy
Spray paint the pipe black and it will radiate the heat out a lot better
Excellent getting extra heat from the exhaust.
thanks cheers andy
100% positive here , that the actual heater itself must be raised up so as to create a downward flow of exhaust gasses and thus a run out of condensation as well . I am in Canada where the temp. drops to as low as - 54 degrees C ... often - 25 to -35 C for weeks in a row . I run my generator / my wood stoves / and soon to be 2 of these wonderful heaters into sealed 45 gallon drums and then exhaust the waste gasses , as this creates a heat exchanger system , but " Please make Sure" , the exhaust areas are extremely well sealed ... the barrels are extremely well sealed ... the process is to exhaust enter into the top of a barrel or 2 stacked and let the heat and exhaust fill up the barrel(s) , then at 1/3 of the way from the bottom of the barrel , you create the new exhaust port to an outside location ... been 100% off grid for 8 years now and this system works wonderful for less fuel costs and less waste heat . T>>>...
wow thats cold, you must really know what your talking about. sounds good. stay warm my friend
That's a brilliant idea. Obviously you're using a metal barrel,right? I think I might do this, I'm off grid in my large 40ft fifth wheel. I have wrapped a skirt of 1.5in foam around the sides and I have a 300gallon water tank under the front fifth wheel overhang and since it's wrapped in foam, it keeps from freezing. I might put a 55gallon barrel next to it for my diesel heater exhaust to extract the extra heat and help keep my under RV from freezing and my water tanks from freezing.
You should pitch the pipe to push condensation out to the end. Use a hydronic finned baseboard radiator to improve your heat
i will do that, cheers andy
Andy if you shroud that pipe with storage heater bricks you will increase the efficiency .and harness more heat .I got my heater today and used an XBOX power pack to run it works a treat .
Thanks for the tip!
copper is a brilliant conducter of heat thats why cheffs use copper pans Andy
Coper clad (outside). Copper interior will poison you.
Use hot water base board with aluminum fins , mount to wall hook the exhaust to it. Will disperse heat.
good idea.
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
Great video. I bought one from Amazon here in Canada and they are really cool units. Puts out heat like crazy.
great! thanks for looking, did you see my other heater videos. just click on my user name "andyfireblade" there are 47 of them hahahah, cheers andy
The copper is turning colors due to oxidation on the surface. This is called a patina. In most cases, this happens in normal atmospheric temperatures and conditions, and it's the familiar greenish color. This is happening under extreme heat, causing the oxides that form to be of a different chemistry and therefore different color. This patina gets thicker the longer the metal stays heated, which also influences the color.
thanks for the info
cheers andy
It looks like you could use a 6 feet length of 2 1/4" ID vehicle exhaust bent into an
inverted U shape with reducing bells at each end of the U to use as a radiator and
recover exhaust heat usually lost from the diesel heater. The inverted U shaped
radiator likely would be condensing on the downward path leg and need a drain
slope for the horizontal L leg through wall to the outside as condensate drain.
The phase change for the vapor condensing dumps considerable heat and the
most efficient furnaces are engineered to be condensing furnaces to use that
extra heat indoors instead losing it to atmosphere outdoors in the exhaust.
Years ago I think it was Coleman and some others sold a through the wall
condensing kerosene furnace that was so efficient that metal piping was
not required for the exhaust cooled down far enough to use PVC and the
condensate would be dripping from the end of the plastic exhaust pipe.
great comment , thanks...
did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
Thank you for showing me that it works because I'm going to use steel pipe and run it up my chimney where I can put my heater in the fireplace that way it will win it up out of the house
good idea, i have heard of other people doing this also. good luck cheers andy
How do you plan on dealing with the condensate?
I'm seriously impressed by how hot it is so far from the heater. Must be very wasteful then in a truck situation.
Don't leave the battery on a cold concrete floor. I don't know the reason but the cold will kill the battery. Put a piece of wood or something under it for the insulation.
ok, thanks andy
The battery uses a chemical reaction to produce electricity, this reaction can only perform within a specific temperature range, if the temperature falls either side of the perimeter the battery gets damaged.
I think that most batteries have a limited lifetime, capable of a number of cycles
@@stevenclarke5606 if you keep the battery on a trickle charger + 6 amps minimum, the battery will last forever (my current setup is ticking over 8 years). Cycling down to nothing and recharging is the killer
Roof Gutter and sand. Get a piece of roof gutter. Fill half of the gutter up with dry sand. Place the exhaust pipe in center of gutter and fill the remainder of the gutter up with sand to the top. Just maybe, the gutter-sand exhaust guard will protect you or animals from getting burned and the guard would act like a passive heat sink?
Great idea
thanks , and thanks for looking
did your see my other heater videos
www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
let me know what you think
cheers andy
Definitely a candidate for hydronic heating...
Just got one for my shed workshop. Nice n toastie. I have it on full whack for 10 mins, then can put it to 1 - 2 settings to keep the temp. I got a Hull exhaust exit to put it safely through the shed wall, but so far worth every penny.
Sounds great!
Hi Andy. Great video and just up my street. Have a CDH in our Sprinter Campervan, and now going to put one into our lounge in the house. Using a 'Y' piece splitter two lengths of copper pipe would make a very effective 'radiator' or even solder together a 4 way split at each end then into the exhaust...Have a fall on the pipe to allow water vapour condensate to drain out of the exhaust.
Thanks again. Tony and Carolyn. :)
Sounds great! thats a really good idea. keep warm. cheers andy
If you burn kerosene, note that it will not lubricate the pulse pump as diesel does, with the result your pump will suffer premature wear. Why not register with a local fuel supplier and burn red diesel which will be cheaper and can be used for domestic heating?
Could diesel and kerosene be mixed to solve the wear issue?
I suspect, due to the pump being specifically designed to handle diesel, that there would be some excess wear@@stevenlarratt3638
I can run it up then I can tee off my ducks and run it to the parts of the house that way it'll keep my house good and warm
if you add fuel treatment to kerosene it will lubricate parts
One of the products of combustion of fuel is water so all exhausts emit condensation. Great vid very interesting 👍
Thank you!
Right!!!
Loads of comments for you, but you could run that pipe through some sand and make a thermal store (Sand Battery) plus from looking at other vids you can mix chip fat oil in and it'll run, the chip fat just needs filtering of course..
Top work
i will do that. thanks for looking and your comments
cheers andy
Add some T pieces to the pipe on the ground and end some vertical pipes with sealed tops.
Spray your copper pipe with Matt black heat proof paint that would be used on a woodburning stove and your laser. Thermal temperature gauge should work a lot better. Cheers Derek
Mufflers don't need baffles to work. Automobile glass packs retune the resonance of exhaust.
Whos gonna be the 1st one to cherry bomb their diesel heater then 😂😊
Thank you for proven but it will work I'm going to use steel pipe and put it up my chimney
Wow, I was amazed that the copper glowed red! This means you could use steel tube and a much wider diameter which will be less restrictive and if soot does build up it would be so much easier to clean out. Using steel tube will also last for years but copper glowing red hot will soon disintegrate, not melt but copper turns to powder of a relatively short amount of time.
"Glowed red!" I don't think so, it changed colour because that's what copper does when it gets heated. It oxidises.
@@seeker1015 It is not a case of thinking it glowed red it actually did glow red. What is your problem don't you know copper gets red hot which means it glows red and when copper glows red hot it oxidizes. If I were you I wouldn't bother trying to argue a way out of this just keep quiet and move on or you will end up embarrassing yourself even more.
@@Moonlightshadow-lq4fr if, as you say it glowed red, can you point out at which time on the video it was most obvious? I've worked with copper enough times in my 70 years to know what red hot looks like.
@@seeker1015 Are you seriously saying you have never seen copper get red hot?
@@Moonlightshadow-lq4frUm, doesn't my last reply imply that? I've annealed enough copper pipe to know what red hot is and you haven't given me the minute and seconds on this video when it appears, to you, to be red hot.
The small weep hole in the bottom of the “muffler” is to allow condensation out…leave yourself a wee bit of room in the event you have to replace the muffler.
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
@@andyfireblade I did watch some yes Andy. To include seeing that you clearly understood the purpose of the weep hole long before my two cents!! 🤣🤣
I think this system will be my go to heat for my garage, even if I need two and gang plumb them. I’m tired of fighting with that dang pellet stove!!
Thanks for great content.
@@keithrayeski6417 thats great. good luck with it. and thanks for the comment cheers andy
@@keithrayeski6417 great thanks for looking.
good luck with yours cheers andy
The heater exhaust gets up to 525⁰ F. Copper pipes fail at 401⁰F. You can't safely use copper to exhaust that heater.
nice experiment bit of advice tho to anyone thinking of using copper as a exhaust it can gives off toxic fumes when heated high enough
Really? Tell us more about these ‘toxic fumes’. Better not use copper saucepans, etc? What are these chemical reactions, precisely?
Let’s not be making these unsubstantiated scaremongering comments that are clearly not true.
@@oliver90owner its when it oxidises temperatures commonly used for oxidation of Cu are in the range of 200 °C-900 °C the exhaust gets hotter than 200 .this is taken from the cdc Human data: Exposure to copper fume causes upper respiratory tract irritation, metallic taste, nausea, and metal fume fever
@@gazbullen I’m not yet convinced. The surface temperature of my copper bottomed saucepans regularly exceed the generally accepted CDH exhaust temperature of circa 300 Celsius (gas flame temperature, for instance). That may produce some copper oxide (but is generally in a fairly reducing atmosphere, of course). However the usual valency copper oxide is Cu II. Cupric oxide is a very stable compound, only melting at over 1000 Celsius, so what exactly are you talking about? Certainly copper salts can be toxic - often used in proprietary wood preservatives.
Go on, tell us something real about these mysterious toxins. Your “toxic fumes” precisely, as both copper and cupric oxide appear to be fairly unreactive at exhaust temperature. As the air is about 98% of oxygen and nitrogen, that may lead to some thought of copper nitride formation? If it does, forget it! The only risk of a copper exhaust is that of acidic condensation within the pipe and some copper salts being lost to the surroundings. Most certainly not a fume by any description.
@@oliver90owner im not gonna keep going on about it as you seem to know all my info come from a DH forum when asked about copper as a exhaust ....."Copper isn't used for exhaust pipes for several reason. Cost would be the main factor small bore pipes are relatively inexpensive however the larger the more expensive. As it is a smooth metal it helps keep the resonance level up thus making a louder sound say over mild steel, thus it used for the making of musical instruments. Copper gives off toxic fumes when heated high enough some lovely toxins can also be given off as well such at Arsenic Lead & Cadmium. We all know Arsenic is lethal. however Cadmium is a class 1 Human Carcinogen and has been banned from scientific research for years. A lethal dose is between 9 - 12 mg/m3." thats all im saying on the matter end off
@@oliver90ownerCookware temperature is kept low by the boiling process - no problem unless it's boiled dry. (Dot)
Yes m8 I know copper pipe has gone up but I have a big roll of exhaust wrap to save spraying as exhaust wrap I think it will be better m8 as I only live in Stourbridge west midlands if you need some
thanks, thats really kind of you.... cheers
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
if you get a tin of black high temperature stove paint and put a little bit on your pipework, you will be able to take the temperatures.
hi keith
thanks for the tip.
i have just done another video, and done just that!
i will upload that tomorrow.
just putting a new vid on today, when i wrecked the heater.
on soon....
kind regards andy
bit of masking tape on the pipe and you can then get a temperature reading with your laser
If you use a copper adapter to increase the pipe size to 1” you will decrease back pressure, slow the exhaust and recover more heat.
yes! totally agree
cheers andy
Id imagine a coupler to a larger diameter copper pipe would allow less back pressure on the heater even with a much longer pipe
thats true,
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
I feel they will make these illegal one day because they work well and cost so little to run.
same here
cheers andy
I think they'll more likely make them illegal one day because of dangerous installs. These all-in-ones should be outside with the heat pumped into the space to be heated. No part of the exhaust should be in the living/working place; it's not a failsafe install if it is.
Of course there's a lot of energy/heat to be recovered from the exhaust but there are far safer ways of doing this.
@@martinevans6289if they were to ban it they would have to ban all those LPG cookers on campsites and campers
It already illigal in many places. U can buy them but not use diesel or waste oil in them and its wont run on anything else. But who cares. Start with the so called celeberties that use a private jet for a 15 minute flight.
Add 1 percent two stroke oil to the kerosene ,for oil pump lubricant.
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
👍👍👍.Thank you
Thank you too
The heater will need to be raised so that all the water will drain out of those exhaust tubes to the outside of the house and not sit in there water setting in a pipe will collect the carbon
good point
I think that once we figure out how much carbon is going to end up in that copper tube that putting sand around it might be a good idea for a sand battery
good idea
If copper pipe was encased in concrete you would have heated floor
The colour of the copper nearest to the hot end is oxidisation. It will become annealed and will be quite soft. If you put copper into an open flame the flame will turn green. Copper work hardens when bent or hammered. BTW, condensation is normal when you burn hydrocarbon fuels. Part of there exhaust is carbon dioxide and water. Believe it or not if you burn a litre of petrol, about 1 litre of water is produced. Some of these heaters run on 12V, 24V and mains voltage. Personally I'd avoid the mains and use a battery and a transformer.
thanks for your comments cheers andy
Same phenomenon occurs on my motorbike exhaust ...LOL
To get better life out of your heater and for keep your system clean sixty percent diesel Twenty karasine He should have used a water baseboard heating It's made out of copper and you could have used it as an exhaust
Genius
There will be a back pressure in that long exhaust and the heater will struggle. You need a wider pipe for that long run
yes, i agree with you. thanks for looking in andy
you could add a sand heat exchanger battery type afair to this set up , instead of a long copper pipe get a copper coil put it in some kind of metal bucket or drum filled with sand or you could rig it up to a big tub of water and run a radiator off it ..............i see from older videos you already tried this LOL
thanks for your comments.
please see the next vid.
www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
cheers andy
Hello Sir lovely Experiment im goin to try it for winter 2024 is heating oil any good to use❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
perfect
What if you use a hot water base board copper tube with the aluminum heat sinks on it ?
yes! i need to try one
thanks andy
Make the exhaust from steel pipe that is larger in diameter to get more heat
good idea
I think it'll get pretty sooty unless you run it on higher setting my friend. I would at least run it flat out every couple of days. best of luck :)
Thanks for the tip
Use base board pipe with fins
good idea
Someone suggested running the exhaust through an old radiator also before it goes out the wall. 🤔
It'd be worth running the exhaust pipe through bricks. Maybe you can even find bricks with the right sized holes? Then the bricks would act a bit like a storage heater after the Webasto is switched off.
GREAT IDEA
This would defo be a good idea, my exhaust is a single 5m long webasto one strapped to the house block work, after a day on low every brick is warm to touch
Is it best to drill through the middle of one brick or the mortar/corner of 4 bricks when going through a garage wall? I'll be using the standard length of exhaust pipe, just worried about the heat damaging the wall.
Me personally I would drill through the brick, but make the hole a bit wider diameter than the pipe to reduce conduction. II doubt you'd get any problems from the heat though, bricks are after all used in furnaces. @@steveclark..
@@mutantthegreat7963 Thanks. I'm going to buy a slightly bigger drill bit and will probably drill through the mortar/corner of bricks so that the stainless steel covering plate that I'm making, those 4 screws have a brick to go into. If there is any heat transfer then at least it's spread to 3 or 4 bricks rather than just one is what I'm thinking. If it's just one, maybe it could crack in half is my concern. My plan could change though, I've not even mounted the heater itself so depending on where it sits and how long the pipe is, dictates where I drill through.
A wider pipe would reduce the pressure.
i think it may be better to make and add a three copper pipe ( like a fork ) at the begining of original 1mtr exhaust so it will not slown the exit of gas from the machine also more heated copper pipes ? (( Z shape bends not L shape ))
great idea thanks
Please for the love of god put a carbon monoxide alarm where ever you run this.
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
It was more a comment for other people that might think about doing this but ill check out your other vids thanks.
This has been mentioned before. The reading you are getting are not reliable as you need to point it a non shiny surface, you need a few spots of blackboard paint to get a reliable readings.
Try running the pipe through a VW (Beetle/Camper) heat exchanger.
Well done thanks for sharing we have a heater here in New Zealand and I want to extend our exhaust kind regards keith
Good luck! cheers andy
I bet a water storage tank with a large diameter heating coil ( lower resistance) could be linked into the exhaust outlet to heat water ?
good idea
Is it cost effective as you can get a 3 meter exhaust for £10 opposed to 20 odd for the copper ?
i just wanted to see the difference.
but the normal extension is cheaper, true
Put some thermal mass around your exhaust pipe and take advantage of the heat from your exhaust
thanks cheers andy
What happens if it runs out of fuel? Does it continue to try to run? Or does it shut itself down?
it has run out a couple of times and they just stop. fill them up and they go again.
cheers andy
www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
@@andyfireblade thanks
a Hydronic Baseboard Heater is what you need to get the heat out faster
would you just add this inline with the exhaust? so the gas is passing though the heater?
Look's like a fire hazard big-time 🔥
yes, thats true. something i didnt think about. good comment .
cheers andy
Yea you can’t go a day without hearing about bricks and concrete catching fire!
This was very inspiring as I'm planning on setting one up in my van, the bonus for me was the kerosene for your heater, could the engine of this heater handle that? While we're at it, could my van's engine burn Kerosene too?
thank you for your comment
yes kerosene is fine to use,
did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
@@andyfireblade Thank you for taking the time and putting all this together, I'm sure its helpful information for many people out there, especially during these challenging times when alternative solutions are a necessity and a matter of survival, as the cold weather is like a deadly poison for some of us suffering with health conditions.
@@califranky
merry christmas,
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
Maybe an intercooler from a turbo charger would work as an air to air heat exchanger to recover heat from the exhaust...
good idea
cheers andy
wonder if the operating temp of the heater changes with this "mod", you can check that on the controller. i plan on doing this before winter rolls around again. Could the color change along the copper pipe be from different temp zones along the pipe. love to see some temps
Does anyone know if they make fins for the tubing? It would make one heck of a baseboard heater!
a good metallurgist can tell you what the temp of that pipe is just by the colour
true,
thank you for your comment did you see my other heater vids, www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade let me know what you think, cheers andy
Now make a box of sand around the pipe and you have a sand battery
good idea thanks
Water that stays in the exhaust is the enemy
yes
Have you seen them things called rocket mass hearts I was wondering how the diesel heater would work to make the cob bench with the sand battery to help contain some of the exhaust pipe heat
I will check it out
you would just surround with cob...no sand battery
Just wondering is there any way to fit a timer on these, so I can have it coming on and off through the night,
they come with a timer, but i have never used it. or you could just leave it on the lowest setting? cheers andy
wonder if you could inline a old style iron radiator and it would stil exhaust fine + heat up the rad lol
good idea, i will look out for one, and do a test
cheers andy
Technically you could make a copper radiator if you made multiple S shapes out of the copper.... expensive but should work
i have just done this as we speak, hahahahahah
uploading video soon
@@andyfireblade looking forward to the video 😎
Could of used a hot water baseboard heater instead of the copper pipe. Same size pipe in it with heat exchangers on it.
yes, i thought similar before, good idea thanks andy
Did you melt the floor paint ?
no, it didnt melt it ahahahaha cheers andy
do a Y split and run 2x copper exhoust
good idea
Did you find out what the temperature on that copper pipe was after..? is it in the safe limits of what copper pipe can take.
Thanks
my temp gun is a bit rubbish. but that copper really changed colour
cheers andy
www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
Putting a potato into the exhaust of your car/bike will make it heat up quicker thereby saving fuel.
What could possibly go wrong ?
This is effectively what you are doing adding radiators and long lengths of pipe to your diesel exhaust.
The instructions say to ONLY use the supplied length of exhaust pipe for a reason.
If you wish to do such things you need to go into a larger diameter pipe and seal it with something that can withstand 2/300 degrees C.
yeah, i know what you mean. hahahahah. and i agree that it would be better when using a longer exhaust, it would also be better to use a bigger diameter. good comment , regards andy and thanks for looking in!
Does having the heater pushed against the wall block the intake air in any way ?
there is still enough gap, well spotted
cheers andy
That silencer odd. The two i own and used have baffle inside.
Why not use hot water baseboards if you can get your hands on it same copper pipe I believe get that extra heat from it to heat the space
i will do that thanks
@@andyfireblade hey no problem 😉 I’m a hvac tech and thought I would recommend that to you
does the 12 volt set-up work for most of their diesel air warmers??🤔
yes, cheers andy
I think kerosene is your cleanest burning fuel that you can get The diesel fuel here in the States has got additives in it The gum stuff up
yes , i like to use the kerosene. and its more pure, your right.
thanks for looking in on my videos.
did you see the one where i have one of these heaters heating my house?
its on right now!
www.youtube.com/@andyfireblade
cheers andy
@@andyfireblade any ill effects from using kerosene Andy? Pump issues etc? Different heat outputs as compared to diesel?
@@stevenlarratt3638 hello my friend
we have not had pump failure due to the thinner kerosene fuel. the kerosene is a cleaner burn, thinner. it is a slightly cooler burn. but i highly recommend using it. its the cheapest i have found.
stay warm this winter andy