For everyone who didn't listen, fuse, fuse, fuse! I can guarantee this man's vehicle is in 0 danger of burning to the ground!! Great video as always, explanation was spot on!
No. I've been running a system over 10kw in power in fuses for 5+ years and is way safer now than when I ran fuses. Your fuse will NOT stop your car from burning to the ground.
Man. Your system is so CLEAN!! That is where I'm trying to get mine right now. I work a LOT. I mean a LOT. Lots of 12 hour shifts, lots of weekends. A LOT. To add to that, I'm a married father of 3. In other words, I'm very busy all the time with very little time for me to do things I enjoy. If that weren't enough, where I live, the weather has been horrible. Then, on the nice days, if I'm off, my wife drags me out with our kids to parks and stuff. I never have time. So when I installed everything, I did so in a hurry. It doesn't look bad at all but not near as clean as yours. I've been cleaning it up 1 hour at a time here and there when I can sneak it in my schedule. Now that the book is over. Lol. Why is it that you and several others install their subwoofer(s) offset and not center? I've never understood that. All that works, and obviously, you know what you're doing, and then you install the sub crooked. Lol
Not really sure what you mean by 'offset'. The sub is centered in relation to the baffle of its enclosed space. Then the port is place to either side of it. Remove the port and you'd see a perfectly centered subwoofer.
I’d suggest people go to lithium. It charges much more quicker than agm batteries. I didn’t remove my oem wiring. I just added an additional 0 gauge wire to the stock 2 gauge. I had a stock 160 amp alternator got a 320 amp alternator now.
I'd def upgrade the alternator and perform The Big 3 Upgrade before using additional batteries. gotta have a solid foundation! good video I'm about to install a system in my car with 1200W RMS subs. My alternator is 90A. Going to do The Big 3, the cable i'm using will be 1/0 OFC, and the cables going to my amps will also be 1/0 OFC. When my alternator takes a shit, I will upgrade to a 200A alternator. ALWAYS FUSE to your battery!!
Now THIS was easy to follow and very informative, the footage def helped also and ppl like myself try and pic diagrams in my head how the cables would be wired/routed.. thank u from Australia
Yeah I had to go to some small mechanic shop. Many major auto shops won’t do it. For some reason just swapping out an alternator that’s high output intimidates then. Not sure why it’s literally a direct swap since it was specifically built for my make and model. Same with car audio shops. Many of them won’t touch systems over 2000 watts because they are intimidated by them
@@BrianWaller-qe7gr Seems like a straight forward process, other than belt swap. The larger corporate shops probably have policies against that kinda work.
Why are y'all so surprised that the big name car dealerships won't modify your car for you?? They aren't going to install anything other than parts that are specifically pre approved and known to function the same way the OEM designed it. You will never see them installing 3 heavy duty alternators each double the power as stock or whatever wild shit y'all are thinking of lol this should not be a surprise to y'all it's how it's always been
This dude is making feel guilty skimping on my wiring in my vehicle. 😂😂😂. Damn. Now I gotta go spend my duckets, scrilla scratch, bread, moolah to upgrade my stuff. Thanks broham! 😂😂😂
I'm fortunate enough to own an ex police cruiser (Crown Victoria) which has a 200 amp alternator (to run all the lights, radios and siren) plus a 20 cu ft trunk space. These cars also come equipped with a power tap in the trunk on the right hand side. I installed a Blue Sea breaker and then ran the power cable from there to an extra fuse box (Blue Sea) and then I ran the power from there to my amplifier. Everything is in one place and instead of removing the negative battery cable when I want to work on my system, I just push in the red button (disengaging the internal breaker) and I'm safe to proceed. When I'm done I flip the yellow switch on the bottom of the breaker back to close and I'm good to go.
@budgetbasshead you should only have one ground wire on the negative battery terminal...because that censor on the negative cable is what tells the cars computer what voltage the battery is at...if you start having charging issues that could be the problem...i have the exact same car...mine is a 2017 premier...my baby is blue ray metallic with the cream and black interior...im running an nvx xad15 at 2ohms on two 15s sealed box...i got a js 370 alt.
If he has a hall effect sensor then you can still run multiple wires as long as they all fit through that sensor. I don't recall him saying anything about having a sensor, though. You're sure his model of car has that?
@@FuckRUclipsCensorship2024 yeah you can run more than one ground threw it...i run a 0gauge and the factory ground threw the same censor...before i had the 0gauge on the outside and my battery light would come on sometimes.
@@FuckRUclipsCensorship2024 what i am saying is that you shouldn't run any ground wires OFF THE BATTERY outside of the sensor...you can run as many ground you want to as long as they fit inside the sensor...for me i am running a 0gauge and the factory ground OFF THE BATTERY threw the sensor...js alternators told me to not to remove the factory ground..they are the ones that told me about the sensor because at first my battery light would come on sometimes...the cars computer wasn't picking up the amp draw threw the ground outside of the sensor.
@@remisouth5695Thanks, I probably got distracted and looked away so I didn't see that part of the video. He probably does need to run as many ground wires as he can through the sensor. Maybe try to get 80% of the ground current going through the sensor. You don't need all the current to go through, just most of it. As long as his alternator is charging properly and there's no check engine lights, then there's not much to worry about.
@@JasonWW2000 gm has that loop for the com. to read voltedge thats what i thoght i herd him say but im a bass head so you no what my hearing probly like
@@djkeys415s I originally didn't see it in the video, but at 4:11 he shows the sensor. This measures the amperage that's being drawn from the battery and it tells the computer when to turn the alternator on or off.
I want to start with saying how great of a job you do on your videos I really enjoy watching it’s always great content but I wanna ask I’m about to purchase a singer high amp alt will my belt size change?
Typically, high output alternators need to spin a little faster in order to deliver high current at idle. Some will come with a stock size pulley and others might use a smaller than stock diameter pulley. Contact the company and find out if the alternator uses a smaller than stock diameter pulley. If so, you will need a shorter belt in order to maintain high tension on the pulley.
It wouldn't hurt anything. The purpose of fusing is to primarily protect positive wires from grounding. This is important during long or winding runs of wire. In my case, I used a high quality wire loom over high quality silicone covered wire. Just be strategic with 'where' you locate your fuse; along the run.
I just did the big three upgrade today and use those v gate terminals with the four slot and they don't tighten up very well on the post terminal. Was kind of choked at that. They move around a lot kind of a shitty deal.
@@JasonWW2000 there were no instructions and where exactly do those spacers go. I have the v gate that accepts the bare wire in the sides and I can also do what you did on top with the copper eyelets. The space is your talking about The spacers you are talking about are they really thin and about 5 mm wide by about 20 mm long?
@@quevicularUsually, aftermarket battery posts will include some shims in order to get a tight fit on the post. Top post style batteries are supposed to have a very specific diameter and taper to them, but different battery companies have slightly different tolerances. Did you push your battery terminals all the way down? If they're all the way down and you've tightened the clamp all the way until it touches then you'll need to add a shim. If your particular battery terminals didn't come with any shims then you can usually find some at your local auto parts store. The shims will go over the top of your battery post and make it slightly larger in diameter so that your terminal will clamp onto it tightly.
Hey do you have any wisdom in hindsight about lithium vs ultra capacitors? I have about 3k on a 320a alternator but stock agm battery, only looking for a trunk power source to help with bursts. I can get an Ioxus Ultra cap (like you tested) for $100 or a small..30ah lithium or so but its more expensive
@@BudgetBassHead cool. That's the last piece til it's technically complete even if more is wanted. It's grounded 5x counting the amp with 1/0, alternator is in the mail, just need a little something to cover
Your ground to frame is already getting rusty. I would hit it with some flex seal or liquid electrical tape. Oh and why are you running 1/0 upfront under the hood but your amps have two 8g runs instead of just using all 1/0?
You were supposed to keep the factory 12/14 gauge wire, and put the larger wire on top of what was there. It looks good. But... I hope everything works out for you. 👍🏾
@@BudgetBassHeadThe sensor monitors current draw and tells the cars computer when to turn on the alternator. This ECM controlled alternator allows for a slightly better fuel economy. If you're not getting any trouble codes and your alternator is charging properly then I wouldn't worry about it.
Big 3 upgrade is only necessary if you’re pushing over 3000W. Your stock grounds can handle up to around 300A because of the length of the wire is short, therefore it doesn’t need to be thicker. You only need thicker wiring the longer the wire gets. The thinner the shorter it is. If the wire is short and close to the battery, it doesn’t need to be that thick. You will be more than fine.
A 3000 Watt system pulls around 215 amps @14 volts. That far exceeds most car stock alternators. You should upgrade your alternator when exceeding 1000 watts.
alot of yunger ppl that are geting into car audio needs them long explinations of things if you spent any time in car audio you whould know that. are you part or the bass head are car audio community
@lee28.78 I usually don't discourage comments on this channel. But high current draw in electronics is not a 'simple' thing. It's a life threatening topic covered by many scholars in the field of electronics. Every electrical device have warnings on them because people die from this stuff. This community is special to me, we all should want the next one to succeed. Each one teach one.
For everyone who didn't listen, fuse, fuse, fuse! I can guarantee this man's vehicle is in 0 danger of burning to the ground!! Great video as always, explanation was spot on!
Except for that unfused alt cable…
yessir i have6 300amp whont full tilt without em.
@@Freejason33 i dont run fuses betwem my alt and main batt
@@djkeys415s well that’s a fire hazard
No. I've been running a system over 10kw in power in fuses for 5+ years and is way safer now than when I ran fuses. Your fuse will NOT stop your car from burning to the ground.
Great Content.. Love the way you bring real info to the bass community..
I recall being a newcomer and simply try to help other newcomers.
The engine bay and trunk are super clean bro!
Thats a badass setup. Excellent explanation and video. Love how clean it is. Great work
Man. Your system is so CLEAN!! That is where I'm trying to get mine right now. I work a LOT. I mean a LOT. Lots of 12 hour shifts, lots of weekends. A LOT. To add to that, I'm a married father of 3. In other words, I'm very busy all the time with very little time for me to do things I enjoy. If that weren't enough, where I live, the weather has been horrible. Then, on the nice days, if I'm off, my wife drags me out with our kids to parks and stuff. I never have time. So when I installed everything, I did so in a hurry. It doesn't look bad at all but not near as clean as yours. I've been cleaning it up 1 hour at a time here and there when I can sneak it in my schedule.
Now that the book is over. Lol. Why is it that you and several others install their subwoofer(s) offset and not center? I've never understood that. All that works, and obviously, you know what you're doing, and then you install the sub crooked. Lol
Not really sure what you mean by 'offset'. The sub is centered in relation to the baffle of its enclosed space. Then the port is place to either side of it. Remove the port and you'd see a perfectly centered subwoofer.
I’d suggest people go to lithium. It charges much more quicker than agm batteries. I didn’t remove my oem wiring. I just added an additional 0 gauge wire to the stock 2 gauge. I had a stock 160 amp alternator got a 320 amp alternator now.
I'd def upgrade the alternator and perform The Big 3 Upgrade before using additional batteries. gotta have a solid foundation! good video
I'm about to install a system in my car with 1200W RMS subs. My alternator is 90A. Going to do The Big 3, the cable i'm using will be 1/0 OFC, and the cables going to my amps will also be 1/0 OFC. When my alternator takes a shit, I will upgrade to a 200A alternator. ALWAYS FUSE to your battery!!
Nice explaining and nice and clean setup that's what I like to see
Now THIS was easy to follow and very informative, the footage def helped also and ppl like myself try and pic diagrams in my head how the cables would be wired/routed..
thank u from Australia
Great to hear!
Been sittin on a new alternator for a while. Hard to find a guy to install it. All good tho, more time to plan my upgrades.
Yeah I had to go to some small mechanic shop. Many major auto shops won’t do it. For some reason just swapping out an alternator that’s high output intimidates then. Not sure why it’s literally a direct swap since it was specifically built for my make and model. Same with car audio shops. Many of them won’t touch systems over 2000 watts because they are intimidated by them
@@BrianWaller-qe7gr Seems like a straight forward process, other than belt swap. The larger corporate shops probably have policies against that kinda work.
@@milesbachelor8747 yeah I have a ford escape and not even the dealer would do it.
Why are y'all so surprised that the big name car dealerships won't modify your car for you?? They aren't going to install anything other than parts that are specifically pre approved and known to function the same way the OEM designed it. You will never see them installing 3 heavy duty alternators each double the power as stock or whatever wild shit y'all are thinking of lol this should not be a surprise to y'all it's how it's always been
Over Done Electrical Will Make ALL Equipment Go Farther!!!!😮
Plus if we have an aluminum block the alternator would definitely appreciate a direct copper lead to the battery instead. I like the "Big 4" idea!
Oh, hey. Last thing. Supercharger does not stain your electrical system. Lol
It can if you have a heat exchanger with a water pump, cooling fans, larger/more fuel pumps.
There are 'Electrical Superchargers' in existence. Duryea Electric Supercharger as an example.
Make 6th order bandpass in series bro...good job very good,❤ inspiration
WHOOOOO THEM VGATE TERMINALS ARE NICE i looked at them on amizon this vid is what i needed to see dam bb thanks again bro content lit!!!
This dude is making feel guilty skimping on my wiring in my vehicle. 😂😂😂. Damn. Now I gotta go spend my duckets, scrilla scratch, bread, moolah to upgrade my stuff. Thanks broham! 😂😂😂
Not a problem 💰🔊🤑
Well said my brother👍 I did the big 4 for my 2017 Honda Accord. Autotech Engineering make great High Output Alternators.
That's awesome.
How long did it take for you to get your autotech engineering alternator ? I just ordered mine a few days ago I’m excited for it!!!
@@user-cv4pl7zm2e One week. I'm 51 miles away from them.
Great video!
I was literally, JUST watching one of your videos. 😁 Thanks for watching!
I used lock washers when I did my big 3 to keep everything super tight
Awesome 👌. I use 16 gauge ofc wire for my big 3. 👍
Stop playing 😄
Nice I have the big 3 upgrade.
WOW! That trunk is clean! Very nice sir! Is that a custom enclosure? Is that plywood carpeted on the side where the amplifiers are mounted?
It's actually hard board. Same as the whiteboard material. Tough and light weight. But there is 3\4 inch MDF behind it.
@@BudgetBassHead It is so clean looking....it looks clinical!
I'm fortunate enough to own an ex police cruiser (Crown Victoria) which has a 200 amp alternator (to run all the lights, radios and siren) plus a 20 cu ft trunk space. These cars also come equipped with a power tap in the trunk on the right hand side. I installed a Blue Sea breaker and then ran the power cable from there to an extra fuse box (Blue Sea) and then I ran the power from there to my amplifier. Everything is in one place and instead of removing the negative battery cable when I want to work on my system, I just push in the red button (disengaging the internal breaker) and I'm safe to proceed. When I'm done I flip the yellow switch on the bottom of the breaker back to close and I'm good to go.
I didn't know they had that... but it makes sense. Thanks for sharing.
Best videos on bass can you a video on the gain on the amp
I never remove original wires. I add to the stock wires that much more current carrying capacity.
My stock was 2 gauge. I replaced it with 0 gauge
Just to be clear. Are you ADDING wires to the EXISTING wire runs OR replacing the original/old wires with zero gauge new wire? Thanks
yeah
would you recommend those battery terminals?
@budgetbasshead you should only have one ground wire on the negative battery terminal...because that censor on the negative cable is what tells the cars computer what voltage the battery is at...if you start having charging issues that could be the problem...i have the exact same car...mine is a 2017 premier...my baby is blue ray metallic with the cream and black interior...im running an nvx xad15 at 2ohms on two 15s sealed box...i got a js 370 alt.
If he has a hall effect sensor then you can still run multiple wires as long as they all fit through that sensor. I don't recall him saying anything about having a sensor, though. You're sure his model of car has that?
@@FuckRUclipsCensorship2024 yeah you can run more than one ground threw it...i run a 0gauge and the factory ground threw the same censor...before i had the 0gauge on the outside and my battery light would come on sometimes.
@@JasonWW2000 the sensor is the black thing he is holding around the ground wire at the 4:11 mark
@@FuckRUclipsCensorship2024 what i am saying is that you shouldn't run any ground wires OFF THE BATTERY outside of the sensor...you can run as many ground you want to as long as they fit inside the sensor...for me i am running a 0gauge and the factory ground OFF THE BATTERY threw the sensor...js alternators told me to not to remove the factory ground..they are the ones that told me about the sensor because at first my battery light would come on sometimes...the cars computer wasn't picking up the amp draw threw the ground outside of the sensor.
@@remisouth5695Thanks, I probably got distracted and looked away so I didn't see that part of the video.
He probably does need to run as many ground wires as he can through the sensor. Maybe try to get 80% of the ground current going through the sensor. You don't need all the current to go through, just most of it.
As long as his alternator is charging properly and there's no check engine lights, then there's not much to worry about.
Are you considering the pac amp pro, and if so are you gonna make a video ?
Its ok only one wire needs to go thru the loop.all other grounds are dedicated to the audio. one ground wire wont support over4k watts
What loop are you referring to? I don't remember him mentioning a loop.
Do you mean a hall effect sensor that goes around the ground wire that measures amperage?
@@JasonWW2000 yep.
@@JasonWW2000 gm has that loop for the com. to read voltedge thats what i thoght i herd him say but im a bass head so you no what my hearing probly like
@@djkeys415s I originally didn't see it in the video, but at 4:11 he shows the sensor. This measures the amperage that's being drawn from the battery and it tells the computer when to turn the alternator on or off.
I want to start with saying how great of a job you do on your videos I really enjoy watching it’s always great content but I wanna ask I’m about to purchase a singer high amp alt will my belt size change?
That's really a question for the people you're buying it from. They are typically very willing to help. Thanks for watching.
Typically, high output alternators need to spin a little faster in order to deliver high current at idle. Some will come with a stock size pulley and others might use a smaller than stock diameter pulley. Contact the company and find out if the alternator uses a smaller than stock diameter pulley. If so, you will need a shorter belt in order to maintain high tension on the pulley.
@@JasonWW2000 thanks
Thank you so much
You're welcome
Good video man
Glad you enjoyed
Hey bro do you think putting a fuse on the alternator positive wire would be fine or do you think it’s too extra
It wouldn't hurt anything. The purpose of fusing is to primarily protect positive wires from grounding. This is important during long or winding runs of wire. In my case, I used a high quality wire loom over high quality silicone covered wire. Just be strategic with 'where' you locate your fuse; along the run.
got practice what you preach you got upgrade at ACDelco battery under the hood
I have 64 amp hours of Headway Lithium in the trunk, though. And that's an AGM under the hood.
I just did the big three upgrade today and use those v gate terminals with the four slot and they don't tighten up very well on the post terminal. Was kind of choked at that. They move around a lot kind of a shitty deal.
Did you install the spacers?
@@JasonWW2000 there were no instructions and where exactly do those spacers go. I have the v gate that accepts the bare wire in the sides and I can also do what you did on top with the copper eyelets. The space is your talking about The spacers you are talking about are they really thin and about 5 mm wide by about 20 mm long?
@@quevicularUsually, aftermarket battery posts will include some shims in order to get a tight fit on the post. Top post style batteries are supposed to have a very specific diameter and taper to them, but different battery companies have slightly different tolerances.
Did you push your battery terminals all the way down? If they're all the way down and you've tightened the clamp all the way until it touches then you'll need to add a shim.
If your particular battery terminals didn't come with any shims then you can usually find some at your local auto parts store. The shims will go over the top of your battery post and make it slightly larger in diameter so that your terminal will clamp onto it tightly.
@@JasonWW2000 ok thanks for the insight
Fuses!!!! Don’t fry your ride and ya gear get ya fuse on !!!!
Hey do you have any wisdom in hindsight about lithium vs ultra capacitors? I have about 3k on a 320a alternator but stock agm battery, only looking for a trunk power source to help with bursts. I can get an Ioxus Ultra cap (like you tested) for $100 or a small..30ah lithium or so but its more expensive
Lithium first.
@@BudgetBassHead cool. That's the last piece til it's technically complete even if more is wanted. It's grounded 5x counting the amp with 1/0, alternator is in the mail, just need a little something to cover
Does all the wiring size have to be the same ?
I have the same car as you. And I want my stuff set up the same way wire runs fuses the works
Absolutely. Electrons will follow the path of least resistance. To have even flow of electrons, make sure that all upgraded wires are the same size.
I have an high output alternator it came with another positive and negative wire. Does my amp wire and speaker wire need be the same gauge?
Your ground to frame is already getting rusty. I would hit it with some flex seal or liquid electrical tape.
Oh and why are you running 1/0 upfront under the hood but your amps have two 8g runs instead of just using all 1/0?
Those trunk snippets are from a previous build. Those were two runs of four gauge OFC.
Mechman 300.50 ? Amp. , OR a 300.80 Amp. ? OH E-Series 300.20 ? Amp
What size techflex did you buy for your amp wires?
I don't see any techflex on his amplifier wires. Do you mean the power cable under the hood? For 1/0 cable you need techflex in 3/4 inch diameter.
@@JasonWW2000 Oh yeah, thats what I meant. And alright
3\4
What kit do you recommend for this?
Temco 0 gauge welding wire and make your own sizes. Cheaper than buying any kit.
I simply bought Knu Koncepts wire. I've never purchased a kit. But I see that Skar and Down 4 Sound has some... just to name a few.
You were supposed to keep the factory 12/14 gauge wire, and put the larger wire on top of what was there. It looks good. But...
I hope everything works out for you. 👍🏾
I've never heard of that. What's your reasoning for doing that?
@iRelacashion those two wires will not fit through the amp meter. Do I simply upgraded it
@@BudgetBassHeadThe sensor monitors current draw and tells the cars computer when to turn on the alternator. This ECM controlled alternator allows for a slightly better fuel economy.
If you're not getting any trouble codes and your alternator is charging properly then I wouldn't worry about it.
👍👍👍...💯
Steve Harvey?
You got me, 😁
Big 3 upgrade is only necessary if you’re pushing over 3000W. Your stock grounds can handle up to around 300A because of the length of the wire is short, therefore it doesn’t need to be thicker. You only need thicker wiring the longer the wire gets. The thinner the shorter it is. If the wire is short and close to the battery, it doesn’t need to be that thick. You will be more than fine.
A 3000 Watt system pulls around 215 amps @14 volts. That far exceeds most car stock alternators. You should upgrade your alternator when exceeding 1000 watts.
@@BudgetBassHead UNLESS you prefer that classic CAR-B-Q great info bro.
you talked to way too much for a simple thing
alot of yunger ppl that are geting into car audio needs them long explinations of things if you spent any time in car audio you whould know that. are you part or the bass head are car audio community
@lee28.78 I usually don't discourage comments on this channel. But high current draw in electronics is not a 'simple' thing. It's a life threatening topic covered by many scholars in the field of electronics. Every electrical device have warnings on them because people die from this stuff. This community is special to me, we all should want the next one to succeed. Each one teach one.
@@BudgetBassHead great topic bb your allways on point.i been in car audio a long time.and still learning!!!!thanks