Wow! First off, I asked if you could make a video on how you made this station and you did. Thank you so much for caring about your viewers. Thanks for taking the time to do this. Very much appreciated.
Nice little build! One teeny thing about grounding earth wire. According to regulations (NEN-EN-IEC-UL 60065) it needs it's own separate connection. So you can't use a connector bolt for that. Also a serrated washer is needed to keep proper contact. Obviously this is extremely nitpicky for just an hobby project. But I thought it would be nice to share it at least. Keep up the good work! 👍🏻😎
..And 2 people agree with you already.. Are in New Zealand also ? I think he's just bridge the Earth connection from the original adapter - if its not regs wherever you are doesn't the problem really go back to the ts80p manufacturer?
what regs are you quoting from as many people are from different areas so it's important to give more information? Different country have different codes so please let people know what your quoting from
@@jestahcarnie4307 That's straight out of the NEN-EN-IEC 60065, or equivalent (UL 60065). For most other devices, same safety regulations apply. I've actually professional work-experience in New Zealand as well, and as far as safety goes, this part is equivalent to those standards. So basically this counts for Europe as well as North America for sure, and Australia/NZ. but I guess you're right, I don't have direct experience in Asia and such, nor do I speak the language to check if their standard are compliant. Although, in the end of the day I wouldn't really know why you wouldn't follow these standards? To be clear, I deliberately said it's obviously nitpicking for an hobby project, on the other hand in my opinion it's a good thing just to always do it the right way if it doesn't cost that much more effort.
@@jestahcarnie4307 I don't really understand the complaints? This guy just wants to share his knowledge. I don't see what is wrong with that? I only see that as something positive.
Hi what a great build, thanks for sharing. I will make one for my new PS80P. A suggestion I will use, is to make several spring tip holders to mount vertically on the top of the control box to hold various size spare tips. Hope this may help others to store their spare tips for easy access. Your comment would be appreciated. Ernie from Australia
Nice! I have a suggestion for a slightly neater looking holder attachment: drill a single hole (that is a very snug fit for the steel holder wire) and run the wire inside the case along the fold between the top and side of the case... then epoxy the wire in place on the inside.
I wonder if given the space in that case you could make the holder internal to it. Like drill a hole in the top to insert the iron but mount the wire holder internally.
The another capacitor you have to worry about in most switch mode PSUs is the big electrolytic that's rated for hundreds of volts, sometimes those are fully charged to a rectified voltage unlike the x and y class caps which are used for filtering
I was actually expecting this to be portable and battery powered. You should try upgrading it with a Li-Ion battery pack, a charge circuit, protection circuit etc.
I think you missed an opportunity to add a QC3.0 powerbank underneath it to make it fully portable. It'll make it way more useful than just a enlarged USB power supply. Make it your next project.
Schematix always an option; I would buy a unassembled pcb if you managed to develop one for a 9v power supply running on a couple of 18650s. I’ve seen some Xiaomi power banks powering the solder so that is always an option.
@@Schematix Something like this www.pbtech.co.nz/product/BAPMIX22234/Xiaomi-Mi-20000mAh-Power-Bank-3-Pro-Edition---Blac should do you well, I used to own one and I loved it but it was stolen so I ended up backing an Indiegogo campaign (Flash 2.0) for one that looks too good to be true. Only time will tell if I wasted my money lol. Also fellow Kiwi here if you couldn't tell from the PB Tech link :)
Cool vid and nice station but please update as should always switch the live wire. Switching neutral leaves the circuit at mains potential up to the switch which can be very dangerous. Switching live only leaves the wire up to the switch at mains potential and the rest of the circuit disconnect from the circuit.
Being a metal construction switch, if the switch fails internally (i.e insulator fail) the body of the switch will only be connected to neutral. So there's no risk of shock. In my opinion this is the lesser of two evils.
@@Schematix But if the switch does fail internally and it still breaks the circuit leaving the power shorting to the body then there is still going to be mains voltage present. A better approach is to have the incoming mains correctly fused. If the switch then fails internally the mains voltage will short to earth and the fuse will blow.
@@Schematix im sure according to AUS/NZ regs you can only switch a neutral if its associated actives are switched...Please follow this up as already mentioned you have mains potential still at the board with your switch off.....Is diy electrics legal in NZ ??
i think i would have beefed up the housing a bit. looks a tad flimsy when plugging into it. how would you go about making a station that uses a conventional removable soldering iron?
So glad you had safety in mind as if you didn't have those spongebob plasters on hand it could have been very nasty without them if you hurt your fingers!
Nice work! But I have a question... Is it possible to power the TS80P from a hardwired 12V DC supply (on the VBUS pin), or will the TS80P only function if it is able to negotiate the QC3.0/PD2.0 power? I wonder, as I know the TS80P displays low voltage if feed with just 5V USB, so maybe it works if directly fed 12V? The reason I ask is that it seems that for a dedicated Solder Station, you would then be able to just wire up a custom cable with a simpler 12V DC power supply (and not need to use / destroy a USB-C PD2.0 PSU). Just wondering.
@@rainerwahnsinn3265 Hi. Yes, it works perfectly well. No negotiation required. :-) Since posting the question I got hold of some USB-C sockets and wired-up directly to my 12V workbench supply. Remember that the TS80P is a 30W iron so requires at least 2.5A for 12V operation. So your 1.5A 12V Powerbank will be insufficient. My TS80P registers about 2.4A draw on my 12V PSU for initial heating. It means I can use my existing workbench 12V power feed, and I can also just use a good ol'e cheap 12V Gel Cell when I'm mobile (so I only use my PD2.0 Adapter, if needed for an offsite job where mains power is available). Hope this helps.
@@rainerwahnsinn3265 Have you checked the voltage level out of the Powerbank when your TS80P is powered-up? I'm just speculating that if it is 1.5A rated (18W), then the initial TS80P load perhaps drops the Powerbank's output voltage down into what the TS80P detects as the 9V range? Just guessing, but I suspect this might be whats happening. If you Bananaplug->USB-C on your Bench powersupply (with 12V / 2.5A+), you'll be good to go! :-)
@@rainerwahnsinn3265 I see the HM305P is rated for 0-30V / 0-5A so should be well capable of powering the TS80P. The only reason I can think that your HM305P does not maintain the 12V voltage would be if you had the PSU's current limit set to a level below 2.5A. Otherwise, your HM305P may be faulty if not able to maintain a 12V output at less than 3A! I have a similarly rated Tenma 0-30V / 0-5A rated bench PSU, which maintains the 12V regulation perfectly and registers approx 2.4A draw on initial TS80P heat up. Please first check your HM305P Current Limit setting is >2.5A on your 12V setting to power the TS80P. Your HM305P is likely faulty if not able to maintain 12V to the TS80P.
@@rainerwahnsinn3265 My TS80P reports Ver1.23 on power-up, just in case there is a difference caused by firmware version? Otherwise, my settings are all the defaults, I believe. All very strange. Do you have an alternate higher current 12V power source you can try, to rule out the HM305P as the issue?
So this guy's youtube channel is named Schematix but he didn't know that the yellow cube shaped cap is just an EMI filter cap and doesn't hold a charge. The capacitor that can hurt you is the black barrel cap to it's left labeled 82uf 400v. He also ran the neutral wire to the switch instead of the hot wire. The hot wire should always be cut off by the switch, not the neutral.
Just a note to any one wanting to make this project. Make sure you get the stainless steel welding rod in at least 1m length. The magic of video doesn't show this.
Forgot to earth a case lid as well as case itself years ago - found out the issue when part of the case became live and the other was earthed - not fun as I was holding it in both hands - after what felt like hours I managed to throw it away - lucky escape
Great project, but doesn't the soldering iron holder act as a heat sink and make the soldering iron cycle on heat more often? Maybe modify the holder to not touch the tip of the iron?
This is awesome. Not overly complicated. Not overly simple either. Unfortunately for me, I live in a third world country were the outlets don't have ground. Sigh.... makes me scared of doing this myself.
Maybe bolt a rectangle of steel to the lid of the enclosure to act as a backing block to the switched faceplate. Or maybe even fabricate a piece to attach to the base of the soldering iron holder! Or maybe its just my anus thats at fault! Nice project, well done.
Awesome that you listened to the requests for the soldering station.
it looks neat, now let’s watch the video.
Wow! First off, I asked if you could make a video on how you made this station and you did. Thank you so much for caring about your viewers. Thanks for taking the time to do this. Very much appreciated.
Nice little build!
One teeny thing about grounding earth wire.
According to regulations (NEN-EN-IEC-UL 60065) it needs it's own separate connection. So you can't use a connector bolt for that.
Also a serrated washer is needed to keep proper contact.
Obviously this is extremely nitpicky for just an hobby project. But I thought it would be nice to share it at least.
Keep up the good work! 👍🏻😎
..And 2 people agree with you already.. Are in New Zealand also ?
I think he's just bridge the Earth connection from the original adapter - if its not regs wherever you are doesn't the problem really go back to the ts80p manufacturer?
what regs are you quoting from as many people are from different areas so it's important to give more information? Different country have different codes so please let people know what your quoting from
@@jestahcarnie4307 That's straight out of the NEN-EN-IEC 60065, or equivalent (UL 60065). For most other devices, same safety regulations apply.
I've actually professional work-experience in New Zealand as well, and as far as safety goes, this part is equivalent to those standards.
So basically this counts for Europe as well as North America for sure, and Australia/NZ.
but I guess you're right, I don't have direct experience in Asia and such, nor do I speak the language to check if their standard are compliant.
Although, in the end of the day I wouldn't really know why you wouldn't follow these standards?
To be clear, I deliberately said it's obviously nitpicking for an hobby project, on the other hand in my opinion it's a good thing just to always do it the right way if it doesn't cost that much more effort.
I haven't really followed these kind of standards lately, but I believe they are going to combine it to the 62368 (if not already done)
@@jestahcarnie4307 I don't really understand the complaints? This guy just wants to share his knowledge.
I don't see what is wrong with that? I only see that as something positive.
Well done sir! There's enough room left to add a suitable battery pack and a charging module to make the thing portable.
Greetings from Romania
That stainless Soldering Iron Holder was brilliant !
I did not consider that you made that from basically scratch until the tutorial started like 2 minutes in LOL,
btw your vids are awesome. Subscribed.
This guide was really nice! I finally made my own version with the help of this vid. Wish I could share the pics to everyone.
Dude this is BEAUTIFUL WORK
Yes! We asked, he delivered!
Oh shit, I've underestimated the amount of work necessary to do this lol
You showed us with high quality passionate.
beautiful work. where can i buy the station pre-assembled ready to go? haha
Word
many a true word is said in jest..
Seriously though. I want to buy this.
this is a great design - simple but strong - and complete in itself.. inspirational -
Hi what a great build, thanks for sharing.
I will make one for my new PS80P.
A suggestion I will use, is to make several spring tip holders to mount vertically on the top of the control box to hold various size spare tips.
Hope this may help others to store their spare tips for easy access.
Your comment would be appreciated.
Ernie from Australia
A superb tutorial video.Very well presented. I love the way you made the iron holder.... WELL DONE!!! 10/10
Fantasic video, would love to try it for myself but don't really have the knowledge you do! Thanks for the video
Awesome idea! I just think it could've been smaller, more compact, to follow the new technology. The execution was perfect!
Nice! I have a suggestion for a slightly neater looking holder attachment: drill a single hole (that is a very snug fit for the steel holder wire) and run the wire inside the case along the fold between the top and side of the case... then epoxy the wire in place on the inside.
Looks damn fine. Question: Why putting neutral on the power switch? I thought you always do live
That is what I was thinking, AC you switch Live and DC you switch Negative.
Not a good idea to put live through a metal switch, in case of internal failure, switching neutral is much safer.
@@Elberto71 Oh i see. Makes sense. Even more if its a metal housing. Thank you
You did great ,going to try myself, to make a sort of one !
I wonder if given the space in that case you could make the holder internal to it. Like drill a hole in the top to insert the iron but mount the wire holder internally.
Very good product
Nice piece of work
Great build. Thanks
beautiful wor
This is a fantastic a fantastic assembly!
Doesn't the spring like soldering iron holder get too hot when inserting the iron?
The another capacitor you have to worry about in most switch mode PSUs is the big electrolytic that's rated for hundreds of volts, sometimes those are fully charged to a rectified voltage unlike the x and y class caps which are used for filtering
Kia ora brother. Love the knowledge.
Love your flag!
haha.. havent heard that for some time
@@p_mouse8676 Love my country and her people to death.
@@smokemirrors1531 Philosophy and Metaphysic's is my passion. But, I like to tinker with electronics.
I was actually expecting this to be portable and battery powered. You should try upgrading it with a Li-Ion battery pack, a charge circuit, protection circuit etc.
I think you missed an opportunity to add a QC3.0 powerbank underneath it to make it fully portable. It'll make it way more useful than just a enlarged USB power supply. Make it your next project.
I'm waiting to find a reasonable sized power bank capable of delivering 30w. Maybe I'll have to make my own powerbank?
Schematix always an option; I would buy a unassembled pcb if you managed to develop one for a 9v power supply running on a couple of 18650s. I’ve seen some Xiaomi power banks powering the solder so that is always an option.
@@Schematix Something like this www.pbtech.co.nz/product/BAPMIX22234/Xiaomi-Mi-20000mAh-Power-Bank-3-Pro-Edition---Blac should do you well, I used to own one and I loved it but it was stolen so I ended up backing an Indiegogo campaign (Flash 2.0) for one that looks too good to be true. Only time will tell if I wasted my money lol. Also fellow Kiwi here if you couldn't tell from the PB Tech link :)
@@Schematix www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08MQ49GSM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Not really just an enlarged Power supply. It's considerably safer knowing that the iron is earthed.
Smiling!
Once had a soldering iron fall off the table and get lodged between my big toe and long toe to next to it, talk about doing a quick two step.
Nice and tidy just don't forget to tin your wires in future builds as they didn't look like they were soldered properly
They were just fine
Cool vid and nice station but please update as should always switch the live wire. Switching neutral leaves the circuit at mains potential up to the switch which can be very dangerous. Switching live only leaves the wire up to the switch at mains potential and the rest of the circuit disconnect from the circuit.
Being a metal construction switch, if the switch fails internally (i.e insulator fail) the body of the switch will only be connected to neutral. So there's no risk of shock. In my opinion this is the lesser of two evils.
Great answer schematix, the difference between knowledge and wisdom 👍🏻
@@Schematix But if the switch does fail internally and it still breaks the circuit leaving the power shorting to the body then there is still going to be mains voltage present.
A better approach is to have the incoming mains correctly fused. If the switch then fails internally the mains voltage will short to earth and the fuse will blow.
@@Schematix im sure according to AUS/NZ regs you can only switch a neutral if its associated actives are switched...Please follow this up as already mentioned you have mains potential still at the board with your switch off.....Is diy electrics legal in NZ ??
maybe 3d print some bracing between the top part of the enclosure so it doesn't flex so much? just a nitpick, looks great otherwise
It's just fine once the top is added.
I built a electronics bench recently, and plan on replicating this project. What fuses would you use for this?
Very neat
i think i would have beefed up the housing a bit. looks a tad flimsy when plugging into it. how would you go about making a station that uses a conventional removable soldering iron?
It's Rick solid once you add the top of the case. Of course it's flimsy when it's not "boxed in."
Very nice simple Build Alon @Schematix
your the best dude
So glad you had safety in mind as if you didn't have those spongebob plasters on hand it could have been very nasty without them if you hurt your fingers!
Could I power the iron from a dc 12v 3a power supply with a barrel jack (using the correct adapter) or do I need to use the included power supply?
A safety fuse would be a nice addition with a metal box.
Brilliant!
Nice - I ts enough space in the case. So I would have done some Box with 3D Printer for transport and Store the TS80 inside.
Nice work! But I have a question... Is it possible to power the TS80P from a hardwired 12V DC supply (on the VBUS pin), or will the TS80P only function if it is able to negotiate the QC3.0/PD2.0 power? I wonder, as I know the TS80P displays low voltage if feed with just 5V USB, so maybe it works if directly fed 12V? The reason I ask is that it seems that for a dedicated Solder Station, you would then be able to just wire up a custom cable with a simpler 12V DC power supply (and not need to use / destroy a USB-C PD2.0 PSU). Just wondering.
@@rainerwahnsinn3265 Hi. Yes, it works perfectly well. No negotiation required. :-) Since posting the question I got hold of some USB-C sockets and wired-up directly to my 12V workbench supply. Remember that the TS80P is a 30W iron so requires at least 2.5A for 12V operation. So your 1.5A 12V Powerbank will be insufficient. My TS80P registers about 2.4A draw on my 12V PSU for initial heating. It means I can use my existing workbench 12V power feed, and I can also just use a good ol'e cheap 12V Gel Cell when I'm mobile (so I only use my PD2.0 Adapter, if needed for an offsite job where mains power is available). Hope this helps.
@@rainerwahnsinn3265 Have you checked the voltage level out of the Powerbank when your TS80P is powered-up? I'm just speculating that if it is 1.5A rated (18W), then the initial TS80P load perhaps drops the Powerbank's output voltage down into what the TS80P detects as the 9V range? Just guessing, but I suspect this might be whats happening.
If you Bananaplug->USB-C on your Bench powersupply (with 12V / 2.5A+), you'll be good to go! :-)
@@rainerwahnsinn3265 I see the HM305P is rated for 0-30V / 0-5A so should be well capable of powering the TS80P. The only reason I can think that your HM305P does not maintain the 12V voltage would be if you had the PSU's current limit set to a level below 2.5A. Otherwise, your HM305P may be faulty if not able to maintain a 12V output at less than 3A!
I have a similarly rated Tenma 0-30V / 0-5A rated bench PSU, which maintains the 12V regulation perfectly and registers approx 2.4A draw on initial TS80P heat up.
Please first check your HM305P Current Limit setting is >2.5A on your 12V setting to power the TS80P. Your HM305P is likely faulty if not able to maintain 12V to the TS80P.
@@rainerwahnsinn3265 My TS80P reports Ver1.23 on power-up, just in case there is a difference caused by firmware version? Otherwise, my settings are all the defaults, I believe.
All very strange. Do you have an alternate higher current 12V power source you can try, to rule out the HM305P as the issue?
Yes
Hi
ya nice build. Out of interest do you still reply to questions on your OX videos? How To Make: The OX-Metal CNC Router Mill (Complete build)
So this guy's youtube channel is named Schematix but he didn't know that the yellow cube shaped cap is just an EMI filter cap and doesn't hold a charge. The capacitor that can hurt you is the black barrel cap to it's left labeled 82uf 400v. He also ran the neutral wire to the switch instead of the hot wire. The hot wire should always be cut off by the switch, not the neutral.
Great video thank u
What is the name of the 3D Printing that you used?
Larry
Just a note to any one wanting to make this project.
Make sure you get the stainless steel welding rod in at least 1m length.
The magic of video doesn't show this.
Forgot to earth a case lid as well as case itself years ago - found out the issue when part of the case became live and the other was earthed - not fun as I was holding it in both hands - after what felt like hours I managed to throw it away - lucky escape
man i need a partner to help with a project of modify the eruntop 8586d to take t12 tips. any help is welcome i do have it on instructables
Materials needed to build a cheap soldering iron station:
1.Metal Enclosure
2. Switch
3. Compatible Power Plug
4. *A SOLDERING IRON*
5. Wires
6. Custom holder
just another point : someone - has already thumbed down this..- the man must have hole where his heart should be lol
Fantástico
The TS80P soldering iron heats up faster than normal 30W soldering irons because they consume more current.
Great project, but doesn't the soldering iron holder act as a heat sink and make the soldering iron cycle on heat more often? Maybe modify the holder to not touch the tip of the iron?
Yes but also the iron goes to "sleep" after its not used for a moment so it may not be a problem.
Insted of opeaning the adapter you could have used it directly
you know you should be selling this...
great work, but wasted a PD UFP chip......
Pro tip when ordering PCBs in a field: Yodel at cows and they will come to meet you...
This is awesome. Not overly complicated. Not overly simple either. Unfortunately for me, I live in a third world country were the outlets don't have ground. Sigh.... makes me scared of doing this myself.
C'È QUALCUNO CHE SA COME AGGIORNARLO CON ANDROID
is that switching psu from a mac? XD
Maybe bolt a rectangle of steel to the lid of the enclosure to act as a backing block to the switched faceplate. Or maybe even fabricate a piece to attach to the base of the soldering iron holder! Or maybe its just my anus thats at fault! Nice project, well done.
This could be much smaller tbh