Everything you need to know about DUTCH BUCKET HYDROPONICS!
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- Опубликовано: 4 дек 2021
- #dutchbuckets #hydroponics #greenhouse
Dutch bucket hydroponic may be the easiest method to grow hydroponic vegetables at home. From cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant to whatever else you could try, the dutch bucket system will give you great results with low maintenance.
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• Easy Guide to Hydropon...
• 5 MUST-KNOW tips for G...
My Nutrient Video:
• What hydroponics nutri...
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www.griffins.com
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www.amazon.com/UNISEAL-Flexib...
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Try Coco and perlite as your media. It helps retain water a bit longer. Less feeds more usage.
Great video brother... Thanks for sharing useful information.
Hi i am from India thanks for sharing video
Thanks for watching
Great video, thank you. Quick question what is the size and capacity of your dutch bucket that you use? TIA
Very good video! I've been growing Dutch Bucket style with a different version of basically this ame thing with a few other hydro types added in..
Amazing video! Is tomato farm worth investing in?
The worked at a greenhouse using this system with drain to waste. But they used the waste water for other plants.
For drain to waste system, can I add vermicast to the tomatoes?
For recirculating system, vermicast going back to the fish tank should cause a problem?
If you look at the drain to waste version you will have to be careful that it isn't sprayed into basins, lakes or tidal regions as algae blooms could occur.
Absolutely
How far are the buckets on the same row center on center?
Can you use just worm tea for your nutrients?
Hiii sir if there is any root problem like damping off in Dutch bucket how to treat it in butch bucket
The reason for drain to waste is different. You try to feed as controlled as possible, to drain next to no water / nutrients. This level of control is not achievable for home growers. The large scale productions use it to limit the risk of contermination and increase control over the nutrients mix.
No others use coco to retain more moisture meaning less watering/ saving nutrients just like indoor drip drain to waste
I have a "First Time" Dutch Bucket System and am having a BOAT LOAD of problems. My PH is between 550-680 all the time. BUT, by TDS seems to be off by a lot, I mixed the Nutrients Master Blend. at 2grm per gal, Calcium Nitrate at .8grm per gal and epsom salts at 1.2grm per gal. I have a 34 Gal Sump and am mixing 80 grm of M.B., 25 grm of C. N. and 40grm of Epsom salts. All my tomatoes. Zucchini and Cucumbers are wilting. What am I doing WRONG? Thanks,
Hello thanks for a great video!!!! What filter do you use in this system, thanks.
Tough question.. I have used many.. the more course micron filters I prefer honestly
Hi there! Cool vid. One question, how do you keep the media in your buckets from being expelled along with the water? Is there a net or something like that?
Rinse the perlite prior. You can also use paint strainers in the buckets if you have problems with it
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Hey brotha, thanks for the video! Couple of questions? Can you use two different media beds ie lava rock then top it off with clay pepples or perlite? And how how should the media be?
Yes you could. But I would imagine you would want the more water absorbent one (perlite) on the bottom
I use Dutch Buckets and DWC. I find because of the extra oxygen the tomatoes and cucumbers do better in DWC, also I don’t have the added expense of a Media to fill the buckets with and have to wash out the Media every fall. The other Hydroponic System I find better are the Vertical Grow Tower which has no Media, and more Oxygen.
The extra cost of the Media and cleaning and disinfecting it every year is a pain in the Dutch Bucket System. I plan to switch over to DWC and grow Towers.
Am curious to know how you clean and disinfect your media and is it really necessary?
@@billedmonds1381 Yes I used to, clean out the perlite of roots, then dunk in a Solution of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide, wash in clean water and store in Bins for next season. That was becoming a pain in the ass, look at the Dutch Buckets, it’s easy to change into a DWC system , this time without the Perlite in the buckets. I made styrofoam tops for the 3” net cups and use hydroton, much simpler, and just as efficient. Most of those ten buckets grow bush Beans, and the other row grow tomatoes, excellent crops with less hassle, I have a 50 gal head tank for top up with float valves for level control of the grow buckets. You can adjust the level in the grow buckets with the Old style Dutch Bucket returns, it can also control level if you turn the Elbows up the other way.
Dear Sir, Thank you for the presentation. My question is whether there are plant nutrition programs in hydroponics, such as peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers, where I could get a plant nutrition program, and which fertilizer to use. Thank you
Most hydro nutrient suppliers have ratio charts for various veg/plant mixes. As all manufacturers vary, one should pick the provider and use their charts accordingly. Most have something or will give you a ratio by calling and asking, if it's not listed. Check out Master Blend....
Thank you for the informative video mate!
Can you pls advise, or send me a link to where you purchased these buckets?
Also, I've noticed that the Dutch buckets you use has the drainage holes on the bottom of the buckets and not on the side of the bottom of the buckets. Is there any benefit of using using the ones you have in the video, as opposed to the ones with the holes in the sides.
Lastly, do you have a video that shows how you trellis your larger plants? If so, can you pls send me the link?
Thanks heaps!
I don’t think there is a benefit to the bottom honestly .. these buckets were prefabbed… out the side is just fine
Vermiculite can hold moisture better. I’m considering using 50% perlite and 50% vermiculite
Moisture retention is not everything, you also want the medium to distribute nutrients well and drain well. I can recommend 60 % coco and 40 % clay pebbles. Or coco / perlite. Probably most mixes will work..
Please advise, I have a problem with perlite. When the solution makes a full turn through the buckets to the tank, the ph rises to 7.5, and at the beginning it was 5.5. The perlite was washed at the beginning and has been used for 15 days.
Nothing else in the system? Perlite shouldn’t affect ph
One data element I did not see in the video is the flow rate of the pump and the emitter flow rate at each bucket/plant. Can you provide this info please?
I discuss this in my online course
Can you explain how a small 30*25*23 cm dutch bucket (about 3 gallon) can hold a tomato plant, while they always recommend at least a 5 gallon container or larger with a regular soil planting?
May need to root trim at some point but yes, it will hold it
What do you think about dutch buckets with net pots? still a drip system tho it's just that the plant is being held by a net pot.
Would work.
drain to garden, give or sell the water rather than down drain.
Great summary! I've been struggling to understand the complexity of this variation of hydroponics, but you've made it easy. I guess I was just imagined it was too complex for me. I started off w Kratky and and aerogarden bc they were easy enough. Looking to expand my options for my home hobby. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
+RiseUpBlue "Complexity?" Seriously? They're buckets.....with plants growing inside, and they're all named 'Dutch.'
For your tank of feed water, how often do you change it out? I’m finding that the water is having a build up of white sludge over time, which I think is salt?
As someone who works in hydroponics, you may want to get your water tested to be sure but that sounds like calcium in your water.
Forgive the dumb question, but what is the merit of putting the filter between the nutrients and the plants vs putting it on the return flow? I've never seen a filter on a hydroponic system so I'm curious about the benefits. My complete lack of knowledge would ask "wouldn't you lose nutrients by attaching a filter anywhere in the loop?"
It’s a mesh filter, relatively large pore spaces. Keeps the particles out of the lines
I'm having a problem when all of my dutchbuckets try to drain at the same time the main drain pipe fills up and overflows. I'm using a recirculating system and don't want to lose water. Do you have a solution for this ?
1. Use a larger diameter return pipe
2. Use a smaller flow rate pump.
Just subscribed..great videos..what kind of tomatoes 🍅 are you growing thanks 😎
Roma, early girl, and cherry
Cool ty 😎
very nice setup but why not grow in coconut?also comercial hydroponic tomatoe greenhouses reuse they drain water to be remixed in certain proportions with fresh water to reduce cost on fertilisers.
Video coming soon.. I tried coconut
Anyone have a link to those watering stakes he is using in this video? I'm not finding them...
Irrigation drip stake
very helpful but can it also be used in an Aquaponics system ???
Yes. Need to be sure you are removing fine particles before irrigating buckets
@@NewAgrarian il be building Radial Flow Settler, moving bed biofilter followed by a Fine Solids Filter that should be enough, Great post im find a lot of help full info from you to go with the things iv learnt already Thx & keep them coming
@@garyash4823 great, keep me posted
@@NewAgrarian will do
drain to waste is ok if you're doing basically a soil grow and just watering but leaving the water in the pot for a day or whatever.. for a flow system it's silly to think plant is going to take all the nutrients in one pass as the water trickles by... imagine being in a river rapid and trying to catch every fish that swam by
only thing i can see drain to waste to be better is in controlling plant diseases or fugus that might return to the main water source.
Facts
Why not use washed Send For media
Could try. May get heavy and not great drainage but would be a cheap option.
I would prefer RWDC with chiller to keep water temp under 21 degrees cel. Reason is root rot only really thrives above 23 degrees cel, Not just because its in water. In run to waste as you have seen you loose way to much in nutrient expense and medium expense. In RWDC you will find your plants have bigger root systems that allows for stronger uptake and growth. Add tp that minimal nutrient expense as the roots uptake more efficiently when compared to medium systems with out the expense of actually re purchasing your mediums every cycle.
Your perlite link end up block us at there website - please remove your stuff after domain name
All that green mildew in ur media tho bro
It’s algae, irrigation tubes too high
Came here for weed