Then most inspiring part of all your videos is how you solve problems. When these days too many boat owners will just throw away a broken or damaged part, you fix it. The result is a part that is stronger than before. Thank you for sharing all this. So unusual and refreshing from the usual scripted nonsense that are flooding RUclips these days.
Your video has really fired me up as someone who did a lot of work upgrading my Oyster 485 Blue Water yacht. If I may I suggest the folloowing to consider: 1) If it is doable you should cover the whole length of the mast plus spreaders and the boom to give it a modern Carbon fibre look with the matting showing and sprayed with gloss...that would look very elegant and modern.as opposed to just super strong and light as it is now . I would also remember your boon has broken 3 times so an extra layer of strenth makes semnse to me. 2) On the mast I think younneed various supports that normally are just metal supports . I would try to do it in Carbon Fibre because yu seem to know how to do it...I am thinking of the following items: Radar antennas dome, Radar reflector mounted on a gimble arrangement , Loudhailer (Raymarine do one that is a loudhailer, and that also works as a microphone so the crew on the foredeck can speak to the cockpit in heavy winds, and it also give fof horn signals to international specs.). The you need on the lower spas spot lights to light up the foredeck. Then you should look at LED Naclights (The Danish TopoLights are the best but expensive...again it seems to me that you could fabricate lookalikes for the Tricolour mast light, Anchor light, Steaming light. I would consider buying a secondhand one and stripping it down to define what LED's they use and how the ED arrays are positioned. (3) I would look at getting an ultrasonic navigation type unit to fit into the hull (Not a fish finder but one arranged for spotting rocks ahead! (4) On the rig I would take some thin sewing machine oil and rub that into all of the stainless fixings, then wipe the oil away and sprinkle it with fine chalk ..this will with luck show any cracks !
ive doneasimilar repair and we were told to also to drill the outer part nd inject thinkened epoxy in to the join. to fill any voids left after pushing together.
Bravo Timo e complimenti per i tuoi lavori. Ho notato la scarsa qualità costruttiva interna di quel boma che immagino sia nato da mandrino maschio, internamente è bruttissimo. Io ho un Albero e boma Hallspar che nasce sempre da mandrino maschio di cui sono felicissimo ma la lavorazione è tutto un'altro pianeta. Comunque penso che la parte riparata alla fine abbia una resistenza pari al resto del boma. Buon vento a te e a tutta la tua bella famiglia
Grazie Marcello mi ha fatto molto piacere leggere il tuo commento e mi farebbe piacere sapere di più di tè, hai un profilo Instagram o Facebook che potrei seguire ? Nel prossimo video conclusivo sul boma potrai vedere la laminazione finale con cui ricostruisco è ricongungo il bomba in sottovuoto , e si ritengo sia solidissimo ed di buona qualità. Il mio profilo fb è aperto e se mi scrivi in Messenger resta in privato buon vento anche ea tè e a presto
I am sure that you have considered it..... My Oyster 485 had a draft of 2.2m yet I had many a hairy moment taking the yacht into small bays that were beautiful. I am sure that an 8 metre keel will give you a faster performance but to some extent you have compromised that by removing the ballast tanks and pump arrangement port / starboard. Your aim ist to make a large comfortable family cruisre from a racing super star and for me that means going into shallow bays ...on that basis I would look at reducing the keel depth to give a draft of say 3 mteres max, and add lead bulbus keel end to achieve. Oyster actually used the same softeare that developed the Australian Americas cup winner so you are local to the naval architects that did that. I would if you go ahead take a lead sample of the existing keel and see how much is purel lead and how much molybdenum that is used to stiffen it and act accordingly. The keel will I blieve be heavier so you will I guess need some strenthening inside the hull.
Hey Frank so sorry for the slow reply, we are definitely interested in shortening the keel long term (tho we do quite love it for now!), but at the moment, lack the funds to engage a naval architect to help us calculate thr necessary adjustment... are you able to access the software that oyster use to do the calculation?
Very interesting video on fixing the brken boom... Now how do you plan to get the 15cm gap smooth with the rest of the boom? Would like to see that on a video. I think you are doing a super job and certainly have lots of knowledge. I had an Oyster 485 yacht and once i a storm I had smoke coming from te binnacle due to electrical switch issues. Essentially the standard approach is to use industrial grade switches and fit a rubber boat to protect extrenally but the rubber does crack, and behind the switch you get salt moisture corrosion. I fixed all of that by fitting push swithes at the helm that were watertight but low current, these controlled 12V relays fitted in a watertight box in the engine bay that had large wateright switches on the box lid that duplicated those at the helm and those I fused! Result At te helm I had a safe switching panel exposed to the elments and below I could over ride the switches if ever I needed to. You mat want to adopt that system and prep the wires. The switches at the helm also had silicon rubber paste smeared all over the invisible side to protect against salt / moistute corrosion. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for your comment, we've just released the final video about the boom job, hope that satisfies your curiosity regarding the smoothing the gap:) Thanks for all your ideas re the electrical stuff, another option instead of rubber is to use the butyl tape we've been using to seal the vacuum bags as it stays soft and sticky forever. About the switches, in marine shops you can also find pneumatic switches which pump air down a tube to activate an air switch
@@SailingNV I really enjoyed your last video and found it extremely informative. My view is painting the boom white does not show off the sork you have e done and even sprayig it black to match the boom is better bu....Why do you not give it a carbon fibre look where the fibre is visible and glaoss painted as they do on new boats and cars? Not sure how you get that standard of finish but if you can do it I would...I also note that the nboom has broken in several places over the years si it might give more street by covering with one extra layer! I would the recognise that as the mast is on the ground it is a perfect opportunity to prepare for oter items that will be needed. First Nav Lights on the mast ...Topolight from Denmark are great but expensive but filamenr bulbs tend to break due to whiplash on a mast ...Maybe you buy Navolight or fabrcate your own using an old Navolight as a template! and indication of the LED's theyuse internally! You should fit a lightning protector unit which islike a baby bottle cleanre made of cpper covered in stainless steel and has a small wire to the hull earth plate ...these things really work and protects you, the boat, the electronics. Next fit a Raymarine (or other) loudhailer up the mast ...it allows yu to speak to crew at the bw in windy weather and they can talk back to you as the loudhailer is then a microphone...really useful.as it aslo give international fog horn sounds regularly. The a high powere pneumatic horn up the mast connected to a tube that hgoes to the compressor below deck near the mast. Next all wired from the mast should terminate in plus that go to a small panel at the foot of the mast belowe decks to facilitate future mast removal. The I would check and possibly upgrade the sheaves at the top of the mast so you have one for each halyard plus one for the bosun chair, plus a safety second line for the bosun chair and these hsould go with high quality sheaths back to the cockpit for easy use with an electric winch. I next would rmove all shroud fatenings and cover with thin oil and then wipe clean and cover with fine chalk ...it will show immediately any cracks ! Next I would have leather pieces made up to cover the shrouds at each spreader to protect the sails against damage. I forgot you need aradar reflector fitted and actually with you obvious ability with carbon fibre that is an opportunity to make a nice support bracket in carbon and a cover from a standard unit, plus supports for the radar antenna, loudhailer, horn......Good luck..a few things to give your super yaht a real uolift in my opinion.
Great channel, hard workers.. This is a proper Globe Trotting boat. Thank you for all your efforts and sharing with the rest of us.
Cheers Zone, appreciate the comment!
Wow! Thanks for the patreon-mention. How cool was that to see some pictures of Nemo (of Sweden) on a real youtube-channel! Take care guys!
Our pleasure! thanks so much for your support 🙏
Awesome!🥰😎
Cheers Jacob 🍻
congratulations on a good fit
Thanks Guy :)
Enjoy your videos. Thanks for sharing your story. The boat looks great.
Cheers Chuck 🍻
Congrats on 5K.
Cheers Hillary 🍻
Eh niente, Timo con questo vago accento italico mi spacco dal ridere ogni volta!! Grandi, un abbraccio da Milano alle Fiji
Good to see Timo wearing gloves with that epoxy (at least some of the time)!
Agreed!!!
Then most inspiring part of all your videos is how you solve problems. When these days too many boat owners will just throw away a broken or damaged part, you fix it. The result is a part that is stronger than before. Thank you for sharing all this. So unusual and refreshing from the usual scripted nonsense that are flooding RUclips these days.
Hey Anna what a nice comment thank you!! I hope we get to see you soon xxx
Your video has really fired me up as someone who did a lot of work upgrading my Oyster 485 Blue Water yacht. If I may I suggest the folloowing to consider:
1) If it is doable you should cover the whole length of the mast plus spreaders and the boom to give it a modern Carbon fibre look with the matting showing and sprayed with gloss...that would look very elegant and modern.as opposed to just super strong and light as it is now . I would also remember your boon has broken 3 times so an extra layer of strenth makes semnse to me.
2) On the mast I think younneed various supports that normally are just metal supports . I would try to do it in Carbon Fibre because yu seem to know how to do it...I am thinking of the following items: Radar antennas dome, Radar reflector mounted on a gimble arrangement , Loudhailer (Raymarine do one that is a loudhailer, and that also works as a microphone so the crew on the foredeck can speak to the cockpit in heavy winds, and it also give fof horn signals to international specs.). The you need on the lower spas spot lights to light up the foredeck. Then you should look at LED Naclights (The Danish TopoLights are the best but expensive...again it seems to me that you could fabricate lookalikes for the Tricolour mast light, Anchor light, Steaming light. I would consider buying a secondhand one and stripping it down to define what LED's they use and how the ED arrays are positioned.
(3) I would look at getting an ultrasonic navigation type unit to fit into the hull (Not a fish finder but one arranged for spotting rocks ahead!
(4) On the rig I would take some thin sewing machine oil and rub that into all of the stainless fixings, then wipe the oil away and sprinkle it with fine chalk ..this will with luck show any cracks !
Hey Frank, wow thank you for all the helpful suggestions, very interesting to read! We'll definitely consider them, our main issue is our budget
SHOW US THE BEAST SAILING! :D
GOOD JOB W THE BOOM!
KEEP ON
Cheers Federico! We have now finally managed to get out for a sail so will def show this in the next couple of vids!
Congrats on reaching 5K well deserved
Cheers Ian thanks for all your support!!
ive doneasimilar repair and we were told to also to drill the outer part nd inject thinkened epoxy in to the join. to fill any voids left after pushing together.
Yes very right, we did something similar 👍
Congratulations on getting 5k subscribers! Very interesting project and I'm excited to see you sailing. Be safe.
Cheers Holger 🍻
would love to see how the interior turned out
Yep we are looking forward to showing you this! When Timo stops turning the boat into a workshop 😝
Bravo Timo e complimenti per i tuoi lavori. Ho notato la scarsa qualità costruttiva interna di quel boma che immagino sia nato da mandrino maschio, internamente è bruttissimo. Io ho un Albero e boma Hallspar che nasce sempre da mandrino maschio di cui sono felicissimo ma la lavorazione è tutto un'altro pianeta. Comunque penso che la parte riparata alla fine abbia una resistenza pari al resto del boma. Buon vento a te e a tutta la tua bella famiglia
Grazie Marcello mi ha fatto molto piacere leggere il tuo commento e mi farebbe piacere sapere di più di tè, hai un profilo Instagram o Facebook che potrei seguire ? Nel prossimo video conclusivo sul boma potrai vedere la laminazione finale con cui ricostruisco è ricongungo il bomba in sottovuoto , e si ritengo sia solidissimo ed di buona qualità.
Il mio profilo fb è aperto e se mi scrivi in Messenger resta in privato buon vento anche ea tè e a presto
Want to see NV hauled over flying fast as a devlish... 🙂
Haha yeah so do we! We have finally now actually gone sailing so will definitely show this in the next couple of vids!
I am sure that you have considered it..... My Oyster 485 had a draft of 2.2m yet I had many a hairy moment taking the yacht into small bays that were beautiful. I am sure that an 8 metre keel will give you a faster performance but to some extent you have compromised that by removing the ballast tanks and pump arrangement port / starboard. Your aim ist to make a large comfortable family cruisre from a racing super star and for me that means going into shallow bays ...on that basis I would look at reducing the keel depth to give a draft of say 3 mteres max, and add lead bulbus keel end to achieve. Oyster actually used the same softeare that developed the Australian Americas cup winner so you are local to the naval architects that did that. I would if you go ahead take a lead sample of the existing keel and see how much is purel lead and how much molybdenum that is used to stiffen it and act accordingly. The keel will I blieve be heavier so you will I guess need some strenthening inside the hull.
Hey Frank so sorry for the slow reply, we are definitely interested in shortening the keel long term (tho we do quite love it for now!), but at the moment, lack the funds to engage a naval architect to help us calculate thr necessary adjustment... are you able to access the software that oyster use to do the calculation?
Very interesting video on fixing the brken boom... Now how do you plan to get the 15cm gap smooth with the rest of the boom? Would like to see that on a video. I think you are doing a super job and certainly have lots of knowledge. I had an Oyster 485 yacht and once i a storm I had smoke coming from te binnacle due to electrical switch issues. Essentially the standard approach is to use industrial grade switches and fit a rubber boat to protect extrenally but the rubber does crack, and behind the switch you get salt moisture corrosion. I fixed all of that by fitting push swithes at the helm that were watertight but low current, these controlled 12V relays fitted in a watertight box in the engine bay that had large wateright switches on the box lid that duplicated those at the helm and those I fused! Result At te helm I had a safe switching panel exposed to the elments and below I could over ride the switches if ever I needed to. You mat want to adopt that system and prep the wires. The switches at the helm also had silicon rubber paste smeared all over the invisible side to protect against salt / moistute corrosion. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for your comment, we've just released the final video about the boom job, hope that satisfies your curiosity regarding the smoothing the gap:) Thanks for all your ideas re the electrical stuff, another option instead of rubber is to use the butyl tape we've been using to seal the vacuum bags as it stays soft and sticky forever. About the switches, in marine shops you can also find pneumatic switches which pump air down a tube to activate an air switch
@@SailingNV I really enjoyed your last video and found it extremely informative. My view is painting the boom white does not show off the sork you have e done and even sprayig it black to match the boom is better bu....Why do you not give it a carbon fibre look where the fibre is visible and glaoss painted as they do on new boats and cars? Not sure how you get that standard of finish but if you can do it I would...I also note that the nboom has broken in several places over the years si it might give more street by covering with one extra layer! I would the recognise that as the mast is on the ground it is a perfect opportunity to prepare for oter items that will be needed. First Nav Lights on the mast ...Topolight from Denmark are great but expensive but filamenr bulbs tend to break due to whiplash on a mast ...Maybe you buy Navolight or fabrcate your own using an old Navolight as a template! and indication of the LED's theyuse internally! You should fit a lightning protector unit which islike a baby bottle cleanre made of cpper covered in stainless steel and has a small wire to the hull earth plate ...these things really work and protects you, the boat, the electronics. Next fit a Raymarine (or other) loudhailer up the mast ...it allows yu to speak to crew at the bw in windy weather and they can talk back to you as the loudhailer is then a microphone...really useful.as it aslo give international fog horn sounds regularly. The a high powere pneumatic horn up the mast connected to a tube that hgoes to the compressor below deck near the mast. Next all wired from the mast should terminate in plus that go to a small panel at the foot of the mast belowe decks to facilitate future mast removal. The I would check and possibly upgrade the sheaves at the top of the mast so you have one for each halyard plus one for the bosun chair, plus a safety second line for the bosun chair and these hsould go with high quality sheaths back to the cockpit for easy use with an electric winch. I next would rmove all shroud fatenings and cover with thin oil and then wipe clean and cover with fine chalk ...it will show immediately any cracks ! Next I would have leather pieces made up to cover the shrouds at each spreader to protect the sails against damage. I forgot you need aradar reflector fitted and actually with you obvious ability with carbon fibre that is an opportunity to make a nice support bracket in carbon and a cover from a standard unit, plus supports for the radar antenna, loudhailer, horn......Good luck..a few things to give your super yaht a real uolift in my opinion.
Love that question ?
How did you know how far to put it in ???!!!!
Hahahahahahaaaaa
Another week closer!! Soon I hope to see some beaches and bikinis!😁❤️
Haha we've just got there!!! Content coming soon :)
𝔭𝔯𝔬𝔪𝔬𝔰𝔪 ✔️