Hi Mr. Phoenix .... can you expound on the lubrication before I reassemble my bean can? I see you said to put a drop of oil up where the E clip lives.... and I saw you put grease on the top of the spindle where the mounting bridge holds it .... but is there any other place that needs grease.... Like say the bushing that fits the lower "sensor" plate to the upper "sensor" plate... mine was a bit rusty.. and I thought maybe it needed something to keep it from sticking together so hard.... Also... does the shaft area that sticks up from the bottom of the can and goes into the outer spindle that attaches the springs and rotates ... does this need some light grease or light oil? I just wanted to take care of this before I put her all back together.... Also... it was VERY difficult to get the top shield of the spindle.... I did not have a slide hammer ... so supported the shield from the bottom with a couple of skinny allen wrenches across an open vise.... and put a small 8m bolt down the top of the spindle to not damage the spindle top when hitting it with a small hammer. I put a box under all of this to catch the parts (especially the little bitty index pin) ... and then repeatedly stuck the head of the bolt .... Would not budge... SO I took a torch and heated the shield... and then tapped again and again.. and finally it moved.
During normal maintenance I just lubricate those parts you mentioned. That is: a drop of light oil at the e-clip, that is intended to lubricate the inner and outer shaft surfaces; it will work its way down. That should suffice; there is no need to dismantle these components to do this. Also a drop of oil on each of the two the bob-weight pivots. Then a small dab of grease on the spindle where it enters the support bridge. There is no harm in applying some grease to the sensor plated to inhibit corrosion. Yes the Hall effect vane (shield) can be very tight. So long as you do not do any significant damage/distortion it should be okay. Keep heat away from the sensor. Remember it is essential that the key (pin) is in position for reassembly. All the best.........
Hi Mr Motor Phoenix I managed to change the hall affect sensor and I m getting good spark, the problem is that it won't start so I reckon it might be the timing issue have you got any suggestions thanks
Hi, Great video. I have the R100RT, and with the RPM stay high and won't go down after I throttle up. I check all the carb and valve clearance. and the timing as well. And I still have the "RPM stay high" issue. Does it relate to the Hall effect sensor inside the beam can?
Can’t think how the actual hall device would. However, a broken spring, or damaged / sticky auto advance mechanism can give the symptoms you described. But first I would disconnect the throttle cables from the carbs to determine if the spindles are free and / or if the cables are tight or frayed and hooking up. Also check the rubber manifolds for air leaks / cracks etc.
No. If it is bean can related it is because the springs have stretched and need replacing. Your real problem is finding a source of correct tension replacement springs - not Chinese sh1t.
Hi Again Mr. Phoenix..... I am rebuilding another bean can now.... and this one has some rust and dirt down in the bottom of the can where the springs and bob weights ride. I want to take the bottom drive (the part that the engine drives) off so I can clean and lube these parts, but I am wondering how to do it. There is a spring wound round the drive gear.. and it looks like this spring holds in a pin that goes through the shaft and drive gear. I am assuming this is a tapered pin that I should drive out after pulling this retaining spring off... Have you had experience in pulling the bob weights out? I tried tapping out this drive pin... put before I put too much heft into it I thought I would ask somebody first (before I destroyed something). Maybe some heat would loosen up the pin? Ideas sir?
Hi, now you are in uncharted territory for me. The short answer is I don't know, since I have never found it necessary to dismantle the mechanism. I would guess that the pin locates the drive dog in position, but allows it to move slightly, thus providing some self alignment to the camshaft boss. Anyway, if you need to know more I suggest you join the Airheads BMW Facebook page. There are plenty of people there who are knowledgable (e.g. Mark Morrissy, Ray Peake) and are willing to give advice. Or you could try looking for information on Snowbum's vast airhead website: technical-articles-list.htm All the best.... Guy
@@motophoenix5951 Hi Again Mr. Phoenix ... I took my Bean can to a machinist friend at work today to get a second opinion about pushing that pin out. He looked it over with a loupe and determined that it was not a tapered pin like I originally thought... and figured it was a straight pin. We used some nicer supports under the drive gear... and a small press ... plus some light tapping and finally got it to move. After we pushed it out the polished pin had a little bit of rust on it.. that was probably holding it in too tight... so when I reinstall it I will polish it up good... and put it into a freezer for a while and then press it back in. After I got the pin out I was able to remove the spinning assembly with the balance weight bobs... and I will clean it up nice.. an polish up the metal and put it all back together. By the way... my sensor was not bad, but the molded wire feeding it was. So in the future... before I replace the sensor... I am going to use a hall effect sensor testor to check the unit electrically first (they are easy to build - I had one from when I replaced the sensors on my R1100 years ago)... then check the wire continuity before I demount the sensor. Live and learn. My connectors on both my R65 and my R100 were both very crumbly and needed replacement. I was able to get new connector replacement kits from EME www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/ign-plug088set.htm. thanks for doing these videos.. they give me the courage to try new things.
@@clarkmorris3312 I am pleased for you. Thank you for the information; also the contact for kits. This will be of use if I need to dismantle that part of the drive, or source a connector in future. On my PD, I converted the system to run off contact breaker points. A little more maintenance is involved, but I figured with c.b. points it is simpler to repair on the road, especially if I am riding in remote places far from home. Encouraging folk to to have a go was my reason to start this channel in the first place. I am a firm believer in mutual aid. All the best....
Job done but what a shitfight with the bob springs. I had multiple attempts but got there in the end. Thanks very useful Vid.
Verry nice, easy to follow and understand.
Awesome as always !!!!!!
Hi Mr. Phoenix .... can you expound on the lubrication before I reassemble my bean can? I see you said to put a drop of oil up where the E clip lives.... and I saw you put grease on the top of the spindle where the mounting bridge holds it .... but is there any other place that needs grease.... Like say the bushing that fits the lower "sensor" plate to the upper "sensor" plate... mine was a bit rusty.. and I thought maybe it needed something to keep it from sticking together so hard.... Also... does the shaft area that sticks up from the bottom of the can and goes into the outer spindle that attaches the springs and rotates ... does this need some light grease or light oil? I just wanted to take care of this before I put her all back together....
Also... it was VERY difficult to get the top shield of the spindle.... I did not have a slide hammer ... so supported the shield from the bottom with a couple of skinny allen wrenches across an open vise.... and put a small 8m bolt down the top of the spindle to not damage the spindle top when hitting it with a small hammer. I put a box under all of this to catch the parts (especially the little bitty index pin) ... and then repeatedly stuck the head of the bolt .... Would not budge... SO I took a torch and heated the shield... and then tapped again and again.. and finally it moved.
During normal maintenance I just lubricate those parts you mentioned. That is: a drop of light oil at the e-clip, that is intended to lubricate the inner and outer shaft surfaces; it will work its way down. That should suffice; there is no need to dismantle these components to do this. Also a drop of oil on each of the two the bob-weight pivots. Then a small dab of grease on the spindle where it enters the support bridge. There is no harm in applying some grease to the sensor plated to inhibit corrosion.
Yes the Hall effect vane (shield) can be very tight. So long as you do not do any significant damage/distortion it should be okay. Keep heat away from the sensor. Remember it is essential that the key (pin) is in position for reassembly.
All the best.........
Hi Mr Motor Phoenix I managed to change the hall affect sensor and I m getting good spark, the problem is that it won't start so I reckon it might be the timing issue have you got any suggestions thanks
Hi, Great video.
I have the R100RT, and with the RPM stay high and won't go down after I throttle up. I check all the carb and valve clearance. and the timing as well. And I still have the "RPM stay high" issue. Does it relate to the Hall effect sensor inside the beam can?
Can’t think how the actual hall device would. However, a broken spring, or damaged / sticky auto advance mechanism can give the symptoms you described.
But first I would disconnect the throttle cables from the carbs to determine if the spindles are free and / or if the cables are tight or frayed and hooking up. Also check the rubber manifolds for air leaks / cracks etc.
No. If it is bean can related it is because the springs have stretched and need replacing. Your real problem is finding a source of correct tension replacement springs - not Chinese sh1t.
Hi Again Mr. Phoenix..... I am rebuilding another bean can now.... and this one has some rust and dirt down in the bottom of the can where the springs and bob weights ride. I want to take the bottom drive (the part that the engine drives) off so I can clean and lube these parts, but I am wondering how to do it. There is a spring wound round the drive gear.. and it looks like this spring holds in a pin that goes through the shaft and drive gear. I am assuming this is a tapered pin that I should drive out after pulling this retaining spring off... Have you had experience in pulling the bob weights out? I tried tapping out this drive pin... put before I put too much heft into it I thought I would ask somebody first (before I destroyed something). Maybe some heat would loosen up the pin? Ideas sir?
Hi, now you are in uncharted territory for me. The short answer is I don't know, since I have never found it necessary to dismantle the mechanism. I would guess that the pin locates the drive dog in position, but allows it to move slightly, thus providing some self alignment to the camshaft boss. Anyway, if you need to know more I suggest you join the Airheads BMW Facebook page. There are plenty of people there who are knowledgable (e.g. Mark Morrissy, Ray Peake) and are willing to give advice. Or you could try looking for information on Snowbum's vast airhead website: technical-articles-list.htm
All the best.... Guy
@@motophoenix5951 Hi Again Mr. Phoenix ... I took my Bean can to a machinist friend at work today to get a second opinion about pushing that pin out. He looked it over with a loupe and determined that it was not a tapered pin like I originally thought... and figured it was a straight pin. We used some nicer supports under the drive gear... and a small press ... plus some light tapping and finally got it to move. After we pushed it out the polished pin had a little bit of rust on it.. that was probably holding it in too tight... so when I reinstall it I will polish it up good... and put it into a freezer for a while and then press it back in. After I got the pin out I was able to remove the spinning assembly with the balance weight bobs... and I will clean it up nice.. an polish up the metal and put it all back together. By the way... my sensor was not bad, but the molded wire feeding it was. So in the future... before I replace the sensor... I am going to use a hall effect sensor testor to check the unit electrically first (they are easy to build - I had one from when I replaced the sensors on my R1100 years ago)... then check the wire continuity before I demount the sensor. Live and learn. My connectors on both my R65 and my R100 were both very crumbly and needed replacement. I was able to get new connector replacement kits from EME www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/ign-plug088set.htm. thanks for doing these videos.. they give me the courage to try new things.
@@clarkmorris3312 I am pleased for you. Thank you for the information; also the contact for kits. This will be of use if I need to dismantle that part of the drive, or source a connector in future.
On my PD, I converted the system to run off contact breaker points. A little more maintenance is involved, but I figured with c.b. points it is simpler to repair on the road, especially if I am riding in remote places far from home.
Encouraging folk to to have a go was my reason to start this channel in the first place. I am a firm believer in mutual aid.
All the best....