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BMW k75 valve adjustment,with just a screwdriver.
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- Опубликовано: 15 май 2017
- If you want to do the job right,balance the intake throttles just after.
The valve lift is modified when you adjust the valves,so the cylinders do not work evenly anymore,one is pulling more air than the others.
thank you these are great videos, they are a big help for non mechanics like me to build the confidence needed to decide to do it yourself. i have a few of these bikes, they need work i hope to have one on the road soon
Thank you.
Take your time,buy the shop manual,or the technical book ,or get reliable datas
Just follow the instructions,respect the specs for each job.
you reduce the number of mistakes a lot,and increase you confidence to do more.
Take your time,your brain will appreciate to learn peacefully.
Have a nice work : )
Sir you are my hero!!! Compressing the spring” no problem” but removing the shim- even with a professional dental pick, no fun. Compressed air!!! Brava Brava!
Thanks,
The thin layer of oil between the bucket and the shim creates suction,so using a tool is rarely efficient to pull the shim.
Air will push the oil and circulate easily between both,specially if you aim at the slits in the bucket, designed for the tool to grab in : it's a direct path under for air : )
michaelovitch Yes very inefficient- my wife came to the shop to see if my hand was cut off the profanity was flying. One down two to go! Take another bow sir!!
@@rcgreaves lol
Thanks for the video and descriptions. Got it immediately!
: )
Thanks for the informative video!
: )
Nice video thanks!
Thank you : )
Thank you. That is a great trick!
: )
Thanks.
Coooool!
Thanks for this video. I suppose it is the same procedure for 16 valves engines?
In any case. This is very useful !
Thanks,yes,it's the same work,even for other engines from cars with flat tappets,on wich i done that too : )
I like your evilness sir :-D
Why take everything apart when a screw driver and air line will make it easy :-D.
lol thanks : )
I've seen peoples,and i've all taken apart once to do this,not having the special tools to do it on a car.
now i don't even use the special tools lol.
Do you grind the correct side of the plate? In my opinion, the valve side was better. Why the camshaft should work on a ground surface?
I ground the side wich do not touch the camshaft lobe.
You keep the smooth side for the cam lobe,so no wear occur on both parts cam and shim,not knowing if it's surface hardened or deeply hardened.
You are supposed to have a constant oil film on the shim,so both parts are protected,but on the long term use,smother is better to begin with : )
Yes, I see. In your film, I see that you are polishing the side without marking of the dimension. Am I right?
@@edidur4151
Right.
The side without marking of the dimension are from camshaft side. Am I right?
@@edidur4151
Yes.
Tried this but didn't work for me. Probably because I used compressed air duster which wasn't powerful enough.
I did just used two screw drivers and it was pretty easy though.
Yes,you need quite some air burst to go between the shim and the bucket.
will do balance, have done drive shaft splines. It seems to be the only bike ideally suited for bypass oil filter, that is water cooled single plate dry clutch, hopefully someone will correct me if im wrong, but i dont know of any others.
There are a lot bmw ,moto guzzi ,ural too i think ,with a single plate dry clutch wich are air ,or watercooled engines.
generally the gearbox is inline with the engine,there is more room for a single ,bigger plate clutch.
From what i can gather bypass filter can extend oil change intervals but when air cooled due to extra heat.
im thinking these k's may be the only bikes as durable as a car because built like a manual car, single dry clutch, water cooled, (and drive shaft.) Some ducattis but multi plate i think.
(meant to say but not air cooled)
Unless the filter media can retain smaller partcles than the stock one in place on the bike,there is no point using an additional by pass filter.
As i know you can extend oil intervals if the oil do not suffer from excessive heat (above 90 °C is starting to be bad) or if you not have fuel dilution,wich mean an engine running not often rich,or cold.
Like you say,oil cooled engines or air cooled engines are not the best for oil extended life...
For conventional oil it's one year max or the mileage given by the bike manufacturer.
Two years for synthetic oil max,or the mileage given by the bike manufacturer.
On my k75 i'm on a very cheap oil,for now,and i will switch on a 5w40 low budget synthetic.
it's a ACEA A3 B4 norm, an engine oil for cars.
I have a 20w50 oil with an oil thickener in my car,just to see what it's doing.
I have 5 bars of oil pressure cold at idle ,and 2 bars at 80°C at idle,wich rise at 4.5 bars as soon i blip the throttle....
it has worked well for me on a previous car using a toilet roll filter, im thinking you can extend oil changes by km instead of time since it also absorbs condensation which stops it combining with sulfur to form acid. Anyway your videos are brilliant, they show much more than the books and saves a lot of time
Que grande!
: ) Thank you
cool trick with the screwdriver but showing to the general public 'how to grind' the shims on a bench grinder is a big NONO.
is it true these bikes tend to leak oil in the cylinders?
If you park it on the side stand before to shut off the engine and let the oil flow back down,yes,a bit : )
otherwise,no just think at all the Porsche ,Corvair,falt twin bmw ,flat 6 engines etc... : )
michaelovitch that's what i was told
a friend had an old one and he said his would burn oil everytime he parked
is it unavoidable even with new piston rings?
Even brand new piston rings do not really seal when the engine is not running,whatever the engine type,as long as the oil film on the cylinder is not present.
They do not expand since there is no pressure from the combustion applied on them and no heat to expand metals (cylinder and piston/rings)
So you wil maybe reduce the leak through them if the old rings were used a lot,but it's really minimal.
If you have a good compression on the engine,no need to replace them.
It's just a "problem" of conception.
you can use a thicker oil,or just use the central stand lol
michaelovitch never trusted centerstands
guess i have no choice tho
I like them quite well.
they allow your bike to start level,the engine is not oil starving on a spot or an other when it's warming up.
the police used to let bikes to run or warm up on the side stand on the last airheads and one cylinder,and valve train was lacking of lubrication...
My shims are at 2.55mm but the manual requieres 2.0-3.0
I don't understand
is your gap ok between the camshaft and the lifter ?
michaelovitch no, the clearance is at a 13mm. 15mm won’t fit.
@@isofly28 13/100 of mm on intake or exhaust valves ?
michaelovitch intake. Sorry for the confusion. I tried using the gap clearance on the intake and the only clearance I get was 13mm max. I mesure the thickness of my shim and it reads 2.55mm. I went to the stores and got some shims for the intake and they are 2.30mm thick. I put them on and the intake gap clearance is now at 25mm. Would it give me any problems since the intake clearance is at a 25mm? When the manual says 15mm through 20mm for intake.
@@isofly28 25/100 is ok.
The more clearance you have,the less the valve will open,so the less your engine is sucking air.
If you have too much clearance,the engine will be noisy.
just A SCREWDRIVER, AND HAND FULL OF ADJUSTMENT BUCKETS, AND FEELER GUAGE.
Yes Capt !
you can swap shim within the engine.. Do Not Grind On Your Hardened Shims ! or they will wear and change quickly.. Ignore this idiot advice to grind shims ~!
At the dealer, they will use used shims to adjust your valves.. find some, or buy some.
@@captlarry-3525 I grind the face against the lifter,not the one contacting the cam lobe.
Absolutely! Besides not being able to get a perfectly flat and parallel surface, it’s very easy to overheat the shim grinding it in this fashion. Better to buy a new shim and put that one aside for when you need that size for one of the other valves.