Master tech Jed, I know this video is new and I wish it was posted when I needed. From watching it, it same so simple to do, but if don't know you just don't know. Thank you my friend for helping people out. God bless you brother
Thank you so much. I'm pulling the head off of one of these tomorrow, looks pretty intimidating in the car. Seeing it come apart is very reassuring. Excellent job explaining the little details that will save a lot of grief.
Hi there, I have a damaged valve so I need to pull the head out as well but everybody tells me its a pain, I really dont see where the pain is? Can you guys tell me and also where to get the tools good quality for cheaper than FCP let say Thanks a lot
I did an S60 head gasket job a while back and used a thin layer of Perm anaerobic gasket maker (also pink) applied with a wooden roller for the upper valve cover. The cam holder tool I fabricated out of steel stock from home depot. Worked great. I also have an 07 xc90 with the 3.2 I6 and after 170K, so far so good with the engine. Hope I never have to pull it apart like this.
By the way I am not advocating or suggesting anyone fabricate any tools for this job! The s60 I did was an older 5 cyl less complex engine and I was able to "get away with it". Great tutorial!
May I add my thanks for this and your previous videos. They are super and help enormously. We have an LR2 3.2 HSE and the engine is identical to the Volvo 3.2. We have our car stuck in a very rural area with a warped cylinder head. So after having the head reskimmed and new gaskets we are putting it back together. Would have been much harder without your guidance. Thank you so much. Emma x
Anerobic sealer it’s called and it’s sold everywhere, it’s not just a Volvo thing. Dries without the presence of air but definitely the only sealant you should use across those engines
Is it possible to mis-align the head so that the READ, long upper bolt and water pump pipe don't line up? My head only had one location dowel on the left hand side so the head could have rotated around this and moved out of square slightly I have an issue with the chain guide top (long bolt )is not centred in the inner cover hole not sure what to do...? Any suggestions??
would you know why i dont have any compression in my volvo xc60 3.2l v6 2011. i took the head off and replace the head gasket. i follwed all your instructions on how to do the timing, but now i have no compression. I have new starter, new spark splugs, new coil packs, new injectors.
hey, quick question when I takeoff the second cover to do the gasket in the engine ran when I took it all off and I had the tool and held the cams and everything. Do I have to re-time the engine or can I just put the chain on everything where it's at right where it's at when I took it off.
Thank you for this explanation. No one and I mean no one has covered this process. Now I have an issue with no fire after replacing the read assembly. I'm checking all connections and checking my process. Yet haven't found anything that could cause the no fire. Any help would be great!
A minha esta com uma rajada no motor a 3.000 rpm sem carga no motor, bronzinamento esta intacto, pode ser as polias do comando? Tenho bujão magnético, nas troca de óleo nao suja nada
You should totally do a video on sealant bolt sizes and leagth location and the oil seals if you threw in some wiring harness basics on the 3.2s it would be amazing. you already help me get the new gaskets torqued just don't wanna bend a valve on valve cover
I have followed your video and got engine timed, but when I crank the engine, it spin as if an engine that has torn timing, and also the compression suction from the throttle does not pull me in but rather it expel out… history on the engine is, it had water went on the piston and has sat for couple of weeks, about 4 weeks, can this cause the rings to stuck and create this issue
I know this is an old Video but I have a question for you regarding the crankshaft locking tool. You started in video that the tool only goes on one way but the tool set I purchased the tool will go on either way. Is there a way I can make sure my crankshaft is not 180 out? I have researched to know end and I am stumped on to proceed.
Watch piston number 1 and make sure it is almost at TDC when the crank is locked. It will not be TDC it will be a little bit before and that is where the Crank tool holds the crank.
my Amazon purchased crankshaft alignment tool (part of a kit) seems to allow some play when the pin snaps into the crankshaft hole - I can move the piston about 1 mm with the pin so loose in hole (it is the correct tool 9997257). I am concerned I won't have the exact timing even if I try to center the pin by estimating - will this matter? Does your more professional tool allow some play also? Do you recommend I buy a new tool? You also mention in another video that the hydraulic lifters/tappets should be returned to their matching hole - does this really matter given that lifters take up the gap (hydraulically) and each mating hole is more or less the same diameter? Reason I ask is you need to compress and soak them in oil bath and then insert - very hard to keep track of which is which, or have 24 numbered containers! Thinking the matching was for the older style mechanical tappets and not the hydraulic ones? Rebuilding a 2011 S80 which failed at 250K km due to excess oil consumption - using a Volvo reconditioned short block with my old, but now reconditioned head. Your videos have been a fantastic aid - much appreciated! Thanks for any advice you can give.
Normally, the factory tool has no play. Also, the tappes are not hydraulic. it's set thikness, and that is why you have put them back in the same exact location. The diameter is the same.
Soooo... I used the timing cover alignment tools, and the decoupler tool stuck on the gear/shaft... can’t get it off even with a torch and slide hammer. Any ideas?
@thevolvoguy the cover is lose, I just didn’t realize the tool wasn’t supposed to fit that tight on the shaft, but it just barely went into the cover hole, and now it won’t come off. It’s seized to the decoupler shaft
I’m rebuilding my entire motor (2009 xc70 T6). My tool kit didn’t come with the upper alignment tool for the outer timing chain cover. Can I get by with using just the lower alignment tool?
@@TheVolvoGuy I'm going to replace inner timing seal but got confused with your replies. Do you mean I have to remove the valve cover first before I can install the cam locking tool on passenger side?
Question: So with the crank tool locked in, cylinder #1 will not be at TDC and will be BTDC? And Are we using the camshaft alignment tool with cylinder 1 at “BTDC” for full timing?
Thank you for the vid. I am doing a READ unit change on a Land Rover LR2 and this was most helpful. Question- I had to remove 2 covers on the engine's front side of the cam shafts where the tool locks in. Do you need to replace them? I cannot find these seals anywhere, but I haven't checked the dealer.
Is there any way to take off the valve cover without taking the timing chain off? And does the Volvo tools that you recommend have all the tools to get the job done?
The T40 is 17nm the 2 10mm bolts ate 21. Make sure you back off the sleeves for the 10mm bolts on the cover and after you get all the T40 tights spin the sleeves by hand until they bottom out the install the 10mm bolts and its 21nm for the 10mm bolts.
Hi. Recently I replaced reverse lip camshaft seal on my 2007 XC90 (198K miles), but it didn’t fix oil leak. Most of the leak is coming from inner and outer timing chain gaskets. Is it possible to change inner and outer gaskets without removing engine from the car? Do I have to replace any additional gaskets, timing chain or tensioner? Thank you.
Yes you can do the job without removing the engine. You have to change the lip seal and the inner and outer timing cover gaskets and the round seal around the read unit there is 5 or 6 seals will have to be replaced
Well, apparently not my last question: I’m preparing to re-install my head on this engine. You mentioned the reverse-threading sleeves for the head bolts - do they need to be replaced if I removed the bolts or is it just a matter of making sure they are still in place?
Hi volvo guy , I removed the head and I checked for warpage , the head is warped so ill send it to the shop , however the engine block showed around 0.08 mm warpage in the middle between cylinders , is this normal ? The manual does not specify any limitations for the engine block , it does not ask to check it at all
Thank you. Your videos were a blessing. My question is about the cam shaft cover. When reinstalling the cam shaft cover, it doesn’t have a gasket. You discussed the Volvo sealant. Do I use it here? Or is there no gasket or sealant between top of heads and cam shaft cover.
I am working on my 2008 Land Rover LR2. Could you give me the number of the camshaft part, the black rubber cover or where I can get it and thank you very much for the videos you have made, they have been very helpful.
Hi, is it possible to bend valves if I turn the motor by hand? I had a broken chain tensioner and the inlet cam did not turn when I turned the motor around and I felt a stop but I didn’t turn that hard I think? Regards
Hello Volvo Guy. I have a 2012 S60 R-Design. I have a gravelly sound coming from the timing cover area. I just replaced the idler pulley and the tensioner, thinking that was the cause of the sound. Still the same sound. I have some experience with the sound in another car and it was broken timing chain guides. In your travels have you seen this as an issue with this engine? Do you have any recommendations before I take the timing cover off? Also, I have the part number for the drift tool for replacing the seal, but I also would like to request the tool number for aligning the outer timing cover. I appreciate any advice.
To be honest I have seen 0 problems with timing chains and guides but it does not mean yours does not have that problem just make sure the noise is coming from there and not the R.E.A.D unit.
Hello Jed, I've checked 4 seal required for inner timing seal replacement 30711315 / 31251345 / 30711317 / 30777012. What are the other seals and gaskets?
Master tech Jed. before we put on camshaft locking tool to the engine in the car, how do you move the black rubber cover/seal? Do we need replace that black rubber cover/seal after we finish the time chain installing?Thanks
Hey VolvoGuy! I've searched all around here and cannot find a way to contact you. I replaced the engine in my XC60 and have a peculiar issue that I can't figure out. Was hoping that there was some way that I could contact you for advice. with everything installed, I can easily turn the engine over... but when I hit it with the started (plugs out), the engine locks up and will not move. I separated the engine from transmission as far as I could get in the engine compartment and I could once again turn the engine by hand. Retorqued the engine to transmission... still turns by hand... hit it with the starter and it locks up again. ever seen anything like this? I'm thinking that the flex plate is somehow interfering with the bell housing of the transmission and it's only seen with the lateral load applied by the starter dragging my feet on pulling the whole thing out again...
Need help: When line up camshaft with tool, put time chain back. Try to turn 2 circle, line-up checked, found intake camshaft side lower than exhaust camshaft, not even. Wether camshaft intake broke or other reasons. Thanks
If you turn the crank 2 turns then the camshaft should line up where you can slide the cam tool back on. You have to make sure the timing chain tensioner is tight before you torque the cam gears bolts.
Thanks. We found that camshaft intake has little “slip” and can line up before we put time chain back. Is this little “slip” indicating camshaft intake abnormal?
I have the same engine as this for Land Rover LR2, but the mechanic could not get a mark and now the engine is spinning but it does not work how do I reset time chane
nice work, any idea what the best way to check for damaged timing components ? I have a 2008 volvo xc90 3.2 that keeps throwing a p001200 and p001268 event code? about to check the oil pressure, the cam signal wires are sending the same signals to both cam sensors, I even swapped the sensors and the same code came back on the intake side. I don't normally work on volvos lol thanks
excellent video thank you very much helped me a lot, but I have a question, the pink sealant can be used for the R.E.A.D UNIT I plan to replace .... thank you very much
The READ unit can not be replaced by itself it is matched to the block but you can replace all the bearings and gears inside of it. And for a sealer you have to use RTV black.
These are really great videos, thanks for sharing them. I have a 11 XC60 T6 with burnt valve on the sixth cylinder. No shop wants to do it. I am planning to do it myself. If you were me, would you just go ahead and repair it or get a used engine and swap them?
The T6 engine you can get them really cheap, but if you don't not have a place or the tools to do the engine swap then changing the valve or the head might be the way to go.
Wow so simple I thought it was a hellish job to do! Wonderful info! You are a great man.. One question., so the camshaft sprockets do not have any timing marks on them?
My crankshaft aligning tool fits both ways, so i could be 180 degrees off. Analysing from the way the camshafts sits when locked in, the crank should be locked before TDC position.
Well it might be the tool, so I have no choice but to use this. I don't want to buy another one. Lol. Yes not TDC but 90 degrees before TDC which is clocked at 270 degrees of rotation after TDC.
I had to hammer my tool on it wouldnt go either way even when I lightly hammered it with wrench I'm so scared it gonna be 180 off where is cyl 1 supposed to be I figure 180degrees off means it should be in a anobvious place? My first gasket change and Volvo
Heat get your engine hot under load drive it on the high way 55mph in 4th gear for 5 minutes and do it couple of times as long as you know your engine is okay to do so and no history of low oil that could of caused damage.
Here is a link for the tool kit. UTOOL For Volvo 3.0 3.2 T6 Engine Crankshaft Alignment Timing Fixture Kit Tools www.amazon.com/dp/B07CWLM1RH/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_AbGNCbC3ZG8ND. Also there is a tool if you watch my first video not in that kit you have to buy it from the dealership. If you have any other questions let me know. Thank you.
Ok, I’m almost done. You will roll your eyes at me: I tightened the damned gear bolts BEFORE tensioning the chain. I’m an amateur. Anyhow, at least I immediately noticed and loosened, and started over. One question though: the tensioner is not a one-time use is it? Assuming it’s not, I’m also guessing they the tensioner ratchets and should not permit loosening of chain without prying that little spring flap open correct?
Thank you, Volvo Master! I was getting to a panic stage on assembly - my first DOHC n my first Volvo. I already put the cam cover on. Do I need to take it back off to set the timing as you did in the vid? Again, thank you so much!
Hi there VG - wondering if you have any ideas. Finally finished my READ unit replacement job and I have pretty much zero compression across all 6 cylinders. How the heck could I have messed this up? Arrrggggggghhhhh.
Never mind…I think I figured it out. I locked the crank back up and then popped the covers off the cam and they are opposite of what they should be. Not quite sure how I was able to pull that off because I did put the cam locking tool in…apparently I managed the screw it up. Everything has to come off again…lovely.
Tha Cam tool only fits one way, make sure you put the cams in the right place meaning the exhaust cam on the exhaust side and the tool that hold the cams the bolt that hold it together should be facing the top.
@@TheVolvoGuy thanks, I’m reconsidering. I’m certain I put tool on correctly (as you say, near impossible to put on incorrectly and have it still fit. I’m also certain I put crank tool in correctly. Chain and gears are also straight forward. So now I’m pretty much stumped.
Alright last question: with crank locked will the crank ALWAYS lock in to cylinder 1 TDC? I ask because VIDA says make sure cylinder 1 is TDC…is that a redundant check?
Just out of curiosity, I went out this morning and tried putting my crank tool in, in the opposite orientation…and I’ll be damned - my tool fits into the crank both ways (180 offset). I’ve already put the covers back on the cams so flying a bit blind but now I’m concerned my timing is 180deg off. Is that even possible without binding?
@@Bigtime_mcalpine that's the problem with aftermarket tools, the factory fits only one way. But did you turn the engine over by hand? If yes and it turned fine then you got lucky if it turns and then at somepoint will not turn any further then the timing is off.
@@TheVolvoGuy Just confused, if when aligning the camshafts will the crank be a TDC #1 or BTDC with the crank locking tool in place… ? thanks in advance for the help on this.
Hi, should I be able to turn the crank, with the tool of course, easily with everything else still installed or do I have to remove the chain etc..? I can't seem to turn the crank almost feels like it is frozen but was turning over fine before I started taking it apart. Thanks.
How long does a timing chain last on a 2012 Volvo XC70 3.2 engine? And roughly what does it cost to replace? And finally I had the accessories belt replaced at like 96k and now have 122k. Should I replace the water pump and tensioner now?
There no service for the timing chain I have not seen one fail yet. And as far as the tensioner and the water pump I would not be a bad idea to replace them now.
@@TheVolvoGuy awesome thank you for the quick reply. I will do that this week than. is there anything else you recommend? I ask as it seems to be that not all Volvo dealerships seem to say the same thing when it comes to recommended repairs. Like I had one shop said I need to replace my rear shocks, but two other dealerships have said nothing about them. Also I have been changing the transmission fluid every 50k just as prevented maintenance. How much more life do you think I will get out of it for doing this?
@@SterlingSigurdsen I have seen them as high as 450k miles and run good. I have a 2007 different engine but mine got 310k miles on it drives very strong and smooth.
Great video. Can I remove the valve cover without removing the timing chain cover? Or can I just remove the top bolts that attach the timing chain cover to the valve cover?
@@TheVolvoGuy Thanks. Can you explain why the timing chain has to be removed too? If the valve cover is attached to the back of the timing chain cover, then can't I just remove the cover to the timing chain (and not the entire timing chain removal and installation steps), which would release the bolts that go into the valve cover? Thanks for your help! I have cylinder misfires on 4,5,6. And spark plug 6 has oil on it, as well as a little bit of oil at the bottom of the spark plug well where the spark plug sits. Wondering if it is an o-ring seal or valve cover gasket.
@@TheVolvoGuy I have a question the other way around. Can I remove inner timing cover and replace the inner seal without removing the valve cover? If not, while doing the timing using special tool, is there a chance that the cam be installed 180 off?
@@ronalddelapaz8696 you do not need to remove the valve cover to replace the inner timing cover seal. If you use the tools you can not install the cam 180 off the tools will not fit.
@@TheVolvoGuyCool. Do I need to use the crank tool first if I remove the inner timing cover? Any chance of losing the cam timing once the inner cover is removed?
Just confirming when You put the hubs on the end of the cams they can be in any position (on the correct cams of course ) ,,,,there is no specific ‘ spot or marks’ for orientation for the hubs to be when installing onto the cams. You just put them on, attach the holding tool to tighten the centre cam bolt ( once the chain is tight first ) ..then this should fire right up of course with the crank tool installed and the cam tool at cylinder #1 end
Volvo Master, I need more guidance, please. Ebay tool kit I bought does not fit into the crank. The pins are slightly off. I'm beyond the 14 day return policy. Also, I noticed your tool has the piece that insters into the crank (crank quide aligner) to help line it up properly into the crank. Ebay tool does not. I called Volvo in Seattle and got a part number. Clearly not the right tool for the application. Do you have a part number for your crank lock tool? I followed your link to Amazon but that kit looks so much like the one I have I'm hesitant to spend another $150+ again for something that isn't going to work. Suggestions, please, sir.
I have never used an after market tools to be honest with you. But if you go to google and search volvo tools. You will find the volvo tools website and you can type the tool numbers I have in the tools video description and it will show you the tool number and photo of the tool. Also in my first video I show all the tools and I listed all the numbers in description. Some of the guys who used the Amazon tool kit they told me it works good. Send me you email please and I will be able to help you better.
@@TheVolvoGuy lupegarza76@gmail.com I may have found one on FreedomRacing. They had two. One was $20 more but then drawing looked more like what I need. I can send you the screenshot if you're willing to assist. You now have my email, sir.
Hi, thank you for your video it is very clear and informative. I have a question. My round seal at the bottom on timing chain cover is leaking. Is it possible to replace the seal without removing timing chain cover while the engine in the car. Also, do u know the official name for the seal and the link for just a seal tool so I can purchase it. Thank you.
Sorry for the delay. The seal can be replaced with out taking the timing covers off with the engine in the car. For the tool I was not able to find an after market tool you would have to go to the dealer. I will put up the tool number and the seal part number for you.
You're an exceptional teacher. Question: (2008, lr2, 3.2L.) Need to remove valve cover; leaky sparkplug seals. How to remove passenger side block of metal with motor mount attached? I am 65 yr old layman. Is that piece holding the engine up?
Yes it is there is a tool that you have to install on the passenger side of the lower part of the engine that will hold the engine on the frame so you can remove the motor mount.
thanks, this is helpful. to my knowledge, I have followed the steps just to replace the valve cover, but after having put everything back, the crank does not turn. what should I do to fix it?
@@peshwaz if you locked the crank with the tool and you locked the Camshafts with the other tool and the got the timing chain tight and then got the camshafts pulleys tight then remove the tools. Then it should turn just fine.
Just purchased a 2015 xc60 T6 with years of wrenching one can only appreciate what you have done young man. Thank you...
Absolutely no problem happy to help.
Master tech Jed, I know this video is new and I wish it was posted when I needed. From watching it, it same so simple to do, but if don't know you just don't know. Thank you my friend for helping people out. God bless you brother
No problem I try to do the best I can.
Appreciate so much am from West Africa sierra leone Volvo mechanic here
Thank you.
Thank you so much. I'm pulling the head off of one of these tomorrow, looks pretty intimidating in the car. Seeing it come apart is very reassuring. Excellent job explaining the little details that will save a lot of grief.
You are welcome. Let me know if I can help in any way.
Hi there, I have a damaged valve so I need to pull the head out as well but everybody tells me its a pain, I really dont see where the pain is? Can you guys tell me and also where to get the tools good quality for cheaper than FCP let say Thanks a lot
Please keep these videos up! As a mechanic trying to gain further experience your videos are awesome!
Thank you..
I did an S60 head gasket job a while back and used a thin layer of Perm anaerobic gasket maker (also pink) applied with a wooden roller for the upper valve cover. The cam holder tool I fabricated out of steel stock from home depot. Worked great. I also have an 07 xc90 with the 3.2 I6 and after 170K, so far so good with the engine. Hope I never have to pull it apart like this.
Agreed
Awesome video thanks for taking the time to post. No way I could do that all with one hand while trying to film with the other!
Thank you.
By the way I am not advocating or suggesting anyone fabricate any tools for this job! The s60 I did was an older 5 cyl less complex engine and I was able to "get away with it". Great tutorial!
Thank you
Very helpful. I would have been lost since alldata didn't go over any of this. Thank you!
May I add my thanks for this and your previous videos. They are super and help enormously. We have an LR2 3.2 HSE and the engine is identical to the Volvo 3.2. We have our car stuck in a very rural area with a warped cylinder head. So after having the head reskimmed and new gaskets we are putting it back together. Would have been much harder without your guidance. Thank you so much. Emma x
You are very welcome! I try my best to help through my RUclips videos but if you need further help just let me know.
I really appreciate your videos. I am in the process of replacing a READ unit. Your vids have been a great resource. Thank You
Friend, I really appreciate it, it got me out of a big bind, God bless you and continue making well-explained material.
Thank you so very much for taking the time to do de video. It was tremendously helpfull.
Anerobic sealer it’s called and it’s sold everywhere, it’s not just a Volvo thing. Dries without the presence of air but definitely the only sealant you should use across those engines
Agreed
я использовал Permotex 51531
Is it possible to mis-align the head so that the READ, long upper bolt and water pump pipe don't line up? My head only had one location dowel on the left hand side so the head could have rotated around this and moved out of square slightly I have an issue with the chain guide top (long bolt )is not centred in the inner cover hole not sure what to do...? Any suggestions??
excellent video series on removing the cam cover . thanks
Thank you.
would you know why i dont have any compression in my volvo xc60 3.2l v6 2011. i took the head off and replace the head gasket. i follwed all your instructions on how to do the timing, but now i have no compression. I have new starter, new spark splugs, new coil packs, new injectors.
I love these videos but please buy a tripod for your camera phone 😂😂😢❤
Thank you very much appreciate the video
Do you have to remove the engine to do this, we have the engine in the car everything ready to go together but we cannot set time
hey, quick question when I takeoff the second cover to do the gasket in the engine ran when I took it all off and I had the tool and held the cams and everything. Do I have to re-time the engine or can I just put the chain on everything where it's at right where it's at when I took it off.
can i do the timing without taking the valve cover off ??
The pink gasket has sat for a couple of days now and is still liquid. what is the issue if this happens?
Thank you for this explanation. No one and I mean no one has covered this process. Now I have an issue with no fire after replacing the read assembly. I'm checking all connections and checking my process. Yet haven't found anything that could cause the no fire. Any help would be great!
Fantastic videos man!!!!! Congrats!!!!!
A minha esta com uma rajada no motor a 3.000 rpm sem carga no motor, bronzinamento esta intacto, pode ser as polias do comando? Tenho bujão magnético, nas troca de óleo nao suja nada
Outra coisa, quero aumentar pressão de turbina, pelo scanner da 0.7 bar de pressão apenas gostaria de meter 1.5 bar sera que esse motor suporta
how to install the head correctly??? where are cylinders 3 and 4 located??? down or up???
You should totally do a video on sealant bolt sizes and leagth location and the oil seals if you threw in some wiring harness basics on the 3.2s it would be amazing. you already help me get the new gaskets torqued just don't wanna bend a valve on valve cover
Like this video, im doing a job like this thanks bro
Thanks Jed it helped me alot
You are welcome.
I have followed your video and got engine timed, but when I crank the engine, it spin as if an engine that has torn timing, and also the compression suction from the throttle does not pull me in but rather it expel out… history on the engine is, it had water went on the piston and has sat for couple of weeks, about 4 weeks, can this cause the rings to stuck and create this issue
please let me know how you fixed this problem as i used the timing tool and i have allmost no compression with a fresh valve job.
Autocar brasil excelente!
Sorry
I know this is an old Video but I have a question for you regarding the crankshaft locking tool. You started in video that the tool only goes on one way but the tool set I purchased the tool will go on either way. Is there a way I can make sure my crankshaft is not 180 out? I have researched to know end and I am stumped on to proceed.
Watch piston number 1 and make sure it is almost at TDC when the crank is locked. It will not be TDC it will be a little bit before and that is where the Crank tool holds the crank.
@@TheVolvoGuy thankyou
@@kentbuerk9479 was looking for this comment. Gracious
This was comment I needed!! Thank you
my Amazon purchased crankshaft alignment tool (part of a kit) seems to allow some play when the pin snaps into the crankshaft hole - I can move the piston about 1 mm with the pin so loose in hole (it is the correct tool 9997257). I am concerned I won't have the exact timing even if I try to center the pin by estimating - will this matter? Does your more professional tool allow some play also? Do you recommend I buy a new tool?
You also mention in another video that the hydraulic lifters/tappets should be returned to their matching hole - does this really matter given that lifters take up the gap (hydraulically) and each mating hole is more or less the same diameter? Reason I ask is you need to compress and soak them in oil bath and then insert - very hard to keep track of which is which, or have 24 numbered containers! Thinking the matching was for the older style mechanical tappets and not the hydraulic ones?
Rebuilding a 2011 S80 which failed at 250K km due to excess oil consumption - using a Volvo reconditioned short block with my old, but now reconditioned head. Your videos have been a fantastic aid - much appreciated! Thanks for any advice you can give.
Normally, the factory tool has no play. Also, the tappes are not hydraulic. it's set thikness, and that is why you have put them back in the same exact location. The diameter is the same.
Soooo... I used the timing cover alignment tools, and the decoupler tool stuck on the gear/shaft... can’t get it off even with a torch and slide hammer. Any ideas?
You have to losing the cover bolts something is putting pressure on one side that is making it stuck.
@thevolvoguy the cover is lose, I just didn’t realize the tool wasn’t supposed to fit that tight on the shaft, but it just barely went into the cover hole, and now it won’t come off. It’s seized to the decoupler shaft
@@poormandoescoolthings5673 yeah thats not good was it a tool from dealer or was it aftermarket? I have never had that happen.
It’s a cheap Amazon tool... I have a five pound slide hammer on it right now and hit it with the torch, not budging at all
@@poormandoescoolthings5673 you might have to cut it if its aluminum it will cut easy the shaft is much tougher metal
Hello I was needing to inquire about where we can purchase those special tools used to line up the crankshaft & camshaft please me know thank you
I’m rebuilding my entire motor (2009 xc70 T6). My tool kit didn’t come with the upper alignment tool for the outer timing chain cover. Can I get by with using just the lower alignment tool?
You can but make sure to put the brake vacuum pump and make sure it fits.
What would lead to oil stains on the block behind the alternator?
Is it not possible to put the cam tool on without removing the valve cover? It seems like extra unnecessary work to change the chain.
No its necessary to insure proper timing you cam shafts will move out of place without locking them in place.
@@TheVolvoGuy I'm going to replace inner timing seal but got confused with your replies. Do you mean I have to remove the valve cover first before I can install the cam locking tool on passenger side?
Thank you
I must have 20 tubes of that volvo pink paste from d13 injector jobs!
Yes they never go bad because it need oxygen to stay good unlike RTV where oxygen would cure it and it is useless after a while.
Question: So with the crank tool locked in, cylinder #1 will not be at TDC and will be BTDC? And Are we using the camshaft alignment tool with cylinder 1 at “BTDC” for full timing?
The timing tool will set the timing to the correct position, for Volvo it is BTDC
Thank you for the vid. I am doing a READ unit change on a Land Rover LR2 and this was most helpful. Question- I had to remove 2 covers on the engine's front side of the cam shafts where the tool locks in. Do you need to replace them? I cannot find these seals anywhere, but I haven't checked the dealer.
Can you tell me what cylinders are up when crank shaft is clocked my tool doesn't have the center dowel for setting tool on
Cylinder #1 will not be TDC it will be BTDC. You have to find a way to lock it.
Is there any way to take off the valve cover without taking the timing chain off? And does the Volvo tools that you recommend have all the tools to get the job done?
No you can not take the valve cover off without removing the timing chain covers. And Volvo dealers should have the tools for you to buy.
To do vavle pan do you just take all the bolts out on top and it pull off
What torque specification is needed for the final cover on the camchain side, on all the T40 and two 10mm bolts? Is that also 17 n/m?
The T40 is 17nm the 2 10mm bolts ate 21. Make sure you back off the sleeves for the 10mm bolts on the cover and after you get all the T40 tights spin the sleeves by hand until they bottom out the install the 10mm bolts and its 21nm for the 10mm bolts.
Hi. Recently I replaced reverse lip camshaft seal on my 2007 XC90 (198K miles), but it didn’t fix oil leak. Most of the leak is coming from inner and outer timing chain gaskets. Is it possible to change inner and outer gaskets without removing engine from the car? Do I have to replace any additional gaskets, timing chain or tensioner? Thank you.
Yes you can do the job without removing the engine. You have to change the lip seal and the inner and outer timing cover gaskets and the round seal around the read unit there is 5 or 6 seals will have to be replaced
@@TheVolvoGuy Thank you for quick respond. It will be complicated job for me.
@@alexpolaz3259 it would require more tools to do it since you have to lock the engine in place
@@TheVolvoGuy Boss, I have oil leak on the inner cover. If I dont drop the engine, will I still need the tool to lock the cam shaft?
@@ronalddelapaz8696 yes.
Yo my mans... can you do me a favor and go through all the sensors and what they do someday. Trying to diag something and it's just not making sense
No problem
Hi there trying to adjust valves on same engine,is it necessary to remove camshafts ?thanks
To adjust Valve clearance? Yes you have to remove the camshafts in order to install the correct size tap it.
Well, apparently not my last question: I’m preparing to re-install my head on this engine. You mentioned the reverse-threading sleeves for the head bolts - do they need to be replaced if I removed the bolts or is it just a matter of making sure they are still in place?
Just a matter of making sure the sleeves are seated all the way to the bottom
So, the Volvo camshaft did not have the camshaft hold down brackets? They were held down by the camshaft cover itself?
Yes sir
Hi volvo guy , I removed the head and I checked for warpage , the head is warped so ill send it to the shop , however the engine block showed around 0.08 mm warpage in the middle between cylinders , is this normal ? The manual does not specify any limitations for the engine block , it does not ask to check it at all
The block will be okay you don't to worry about it.
Thank you. Your videos were a blessing.
My question is about the cam shaft cover.
When reinstalling the cam shaft cover, it doesn’t have a gasket. You discussed the Volvo sealant. Do I use it here? Or is there no gasket or sealant between top of heads and cam shaft cover.
I am working on my 2008 Land Rover LR2. Could you give me the number of the camshaft part, the black rubber cover or where I can get it and thank you very much for the videos you have made, they have been very helpful.
I would ask your local volvo dealership am sure they can sell you one. The part number for Volvo is 31251117
Hi,
is it possible to bend valves if I turn the motor by hand?
I had a broken chain tensioner and the inlet cam did not turn when I turned the motor around and I felt a stop but I didn’t turn that hard I think?
Regards
You should be okay.
Hello Volvo Guy. I have a 2012 S60 R-Design. I have a gravelly sound coming from the timing cover area. I just replaced the idler pulley and the tensioner, thinking that was the cause of the sound. Still the same sound. I have some experience with the sound in another car and it was broken timing chain guides. In your travels have you seen this as an issue with this engine? Do you have any recommendations before I take the timing cover off? Also, I have the part number for the drift tool for replacing the seal, but I also would like to request the tool number for aligning the outer timing cover. I appreciate any advice.
To be honest I have seen 0 problems with timing chains and guides but it does not mean yours does not have that problem just make sure the noise is coming from there and not the R.E.A.D unit.
thank you soo such for your help brother :}
You are welcome.
Hello Jed, I've checked 4 seal required for inner timing seal replacement 30711315 / 31251345 / 30711317 / 30777012. What are the other seals and gaskets?
Get hold of me on patreon.com
Muchísimas gracias por el video ..te pasaste de bueno
Soy de chile un abrazo
Podrías subir un video de como Apretar las polead de los levas porfavor?
I have showed how to Tighten the bolts for the cam pulleys
Master tech Jed. before we put on camshaft locking tool to the engine in the car, how do you move the black rubber cover/seal? Do we need replace that black rubber cover/seal after we finish the time chain installing?Thanks
You have to put a hole right in the middle of the plug and pull it off and you have to use new plugs.
Hey VolvoGuy! I've searched all around here and cannot find a way to contact you. I replaced the engine in my XC60 and have a peculiar issue that I can't figure out. Was hoping that there was some way that I could contact you for advice.
with everything installed, I can easily turn the engine over... but when I hit it with the started (plugs out), the engine locks up and will not move. I separated the engine from transmission as far as I could get in the engine compartment and I could once again turn the engine by hand. Retorqued the engine to transmission... still turns by hand... hit it with the starter and it locks up again.
ever seen anything like this? I'm thinking that the flex plate is somehow interfering with the bell housing of the transmission and it's only seen with the lateral load applied by the starter
dragging my feet on pulling the whole thing out again...
He is my patron link. patreon.com/thevolvoguy?Link&
Need help: When line up camshaft with tool, put time chain back. Try to turn 2 circle, line-up checked, found intake camshaft side lower than exhaust camshaft, not even. Wether camshaft intake broke or other reasons. Thanks
If you turn the crank 2 turns then the camshaft should line up where you can slide the cam tool back on. You have to make sure the timing chain tensioner is tight before you torque the cam gears bolts.
Thanks. We found that camshaft intake has little “slip” and can line up before we put time chain back. Is this little “slip” indicating camshaft intake abnormal?
I have the same engine as this for Land Rover LR2, but the mechanic could not get a mark and now the engine is spinning but it does not work how do I reset time chane
You need the timing tools I listed in my video.
nice work, any idea what the best way to check for damaged timing components ? I have a 2008 volvo xc90 3.2 that keeps throwing a p001200 and p001268 event code? about to check the oil pressure, the cam signal wires are sending the same signals to both cam sensors, I even swapped the sensors and the same code came back on the intake side.
I don't normally work on volvos lol thanks
Sorry, I didn't see this in time.
excellent video thank you very much helped me a lot, but I have a question, the pink sealant can be used for the R.E.A.D UNIT I plan to replace .... thank you very much
The READ unit can not be replaced by itself it is matched to the block but you can replace all the bearings and gears inside of it. And for a sealer you have to use RTV black.
These are really great videos, thanks for sharing them. I have a 11 XC60 T6 with burnt valve on the sixth cylinder. No shop wants to do it. I am planning to do it myself. If you were me, would you just go ahead and repair it or get a used engine and swap them?
The T6 engine you can get them really cheap, but if you don't not have a place or the tools to do the engine swap then changing the valve or the head might be the way to go.
Same situation here, why are valves getting burned, same cylinder for my 2012 XC70. I had a little oil burning but not crazy also had 210k miles
Are there any good manuals that I could purchase for rebuilding the 3.2 in my XC90?
Not that I know of you can try volvo for service manuals not sure if they have a such thing.
Ok I give up. Where do I find the correct 12 spline tool to remove the head?
Snap-on
What torque do the camshaft gears have?
Wow so simple I thought it was a hellish job to do! Wonderful info! You are a great man..
One question., so the camshaft sprockets do not have any timing marks on them?
You are right no marks at all.
So you don't afto set the gears any special way just put them on and that's it?
Hi the volvo guy
Where can i purchase the tools?
Do you a link ?
Great thanks
Thank you so much. Peace
You're welcome thank you
My crankshaft aligning tool fits both ways, so i could be 180 degrees off. Analysing from the way the camshafts sits when locked in, the crank should be locked before TDC position.
It should not fit both way something is wrong
And no it will not be TDC
Well it might be the tool, so I have no choice but to use this. I don't want to buy another one. Lol. Yes not TDC but 90 degrees before TDC which is clocked at 270 degrees of rotation after TDC.
I had to hammer my tool on it wouldnt go either way even when I lightly hammered it with wrench I'm so scared it gonna be 180 off where is cyl 1 supposed to be I figure 180degrees off means it should be in a anobvious place? My first gasket change and Volvo
How to decarbonate Volvo S60 2013 I have a problem with a cold misfire
Heat get your engine hot under load drive it on the high way 55mph in 4th gear for 5 minutes and do it couple of times as long as you know your engine is okay to do so and no history of low oil that could of caused damage.
where is the best place to get the special tools for this repair ?
Here is a link for the tool kit.
UTOOL For Volvo 3.0 3.2 T6 Engine Crankshaft Alignment Timing Fixture Kit Tools www.amazon.com/dp/B07CWLM1RH/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_AbGNCbC3ZG8ND.
Also there is a tool if you watch my first video not in that kit you have to buy it from the dealership. If you have any other questions let me know. Thank you.
when installing the valve cover on a 2.5 l 5cyl is it the same process?
Similar process
Hi The Volvo Guy, could you let me know what the garage (not the Dealer) will charge to replce the timing chain? Appreciated.
You will have to find a shop that works on Volvo's and have the needed tools.
Can you please give a list of the tools you used an where to buy them from
Where can I get these two tools (and any idea how much they cost?) I need them one time to put the engine back together for my XC60
Volvotechinfo.com
Ok, I’m almost done. You will roll your eyes at me: I tightened the damned gear bolts BEFORE tensioning the chain. I’m an amateur. Anyhow, at least I immediately noticed and loosened, and started over. One question though: the tensioner is not a one-time use is it? Assuming it’s not, I’m also guessing they the tensioner ratchets and should not permit loosening of chain without prying that little spring flap open correct?
You are correct,
Hey Volvo guy. Do you have a part number for the bolts which need replacing from the exhaust and intake pulleys???
I will post it up Tomorrow morning.
hey how would i time the crankshaft if the engine is in the vehicle
You can install the crank lock tool on the engine without removing the engine
Thank you, Volvo Master! I was getting to a panic stage on assembly - my first DOHC n my first Volvo.
I already put the cam cover on. Do I need to take it back off to set the timing as you did in the vid?
Again, thank you so much!
Yes you do. You have to lock the crankshaft and the camshafts before you bolt the valve cover back on..
And you are welcome.
@@TheVolvoGuy where can i get the tools for crankshaft and camshaft locking
@@rrchollette18 you can google the tool number and see if you find any aftermarket if not then you have to get them from the dealership
I bought a crank tool from China an it goes in both way, is that right?
No the original tool I have been using only fits one way because the holes are off center.
Hi there VG - wondering if you have any ideas. Finally finished my READ unit replacement job and I have pretty much zero compression across all 6 cylinders. How the heck could I have messed this up? Arrrggggggghhhhh.
Never mind…I think I figured it out. I locked the crank back up and then popped the covers off the cam and they are opposite of what they should be. Not quite sure how I was able to pull that off because I did put the cam locking tool in…apparently I managed the screw it up. Everything has to come off again…lovely.
Tha Cam tool only fits one way, make sure you put the cams in the right place meaning the exhaust cam on the exhaust side and the tool that hold the cams the bolt that hold it together should be facing the top.
@@TheVolvoGuy thanks, I’m reconsidering. I’m certain I put tool on correctly (as you say, near impossible to put on incorrectly and have it still fit. I’m also certain I put crank tool in correctly. Chain and gears are also straight forward. So now I’m pretty much stumped.
@@TheVolvoGuy thanks. I’m now thinking there is no way I screwed that up. Something else has gone wrong.
Alright last question: with crank locked will the crank ALWAYS lock in to cylinder 1 TDC? I ask because VIDA says make sure cylinder 1 is TDC…is that a redundant check?
No Volvo never puts cylinder 1 to TDC when you lock the crank cylinder 1 will be BTDC
@@TheVolvoGuy thank you - that’s strange. Must be a typo in VIDA.
Just out of curiosity, I went out this morning and tried putting my crank tool in, in the opposite orientation…and I’ll be damned - my tool fits into the crank both ways (180 offset). I’ve already put the covers back on the cams so flying a bit blind but now I’m concerned my timing is 180deg off. Is that even possible without binding?
@@Bigtime_mcalpine that's the problem with aftermarket tools, the factory fits only one way. But did you turn the engine over by hand? If yes and it turned fine then you got lucky if it turns and then at somepoint will not turn any further then the timing is off.
@@TheVolvoGuy Just confused, if when aligning the camshafts will the crank be a TDC #1 or BTDC with the crank locking tool in place… ? thanks in advance for the help on this.
Hi, should I be able to turn the crank, with the tool of course, easily with everything else still installed or do I have to remove the chain etc..? I can't seem to turn the crank almost feels like it is frozen but was turning over fine before I started taking it apart. Thanks.
Did you remove the timing chain? And then tried to turn the engine over?
@@TheVolvoGuy no at least not yet. Should I? Thanks.
No if you need to turn the engine over you do not want to remove the chain. Make sure the pin on the tool is pulled out.
@@TheVolvoGuy that's what I was trying to do but it wouldn't turn. I had pulled all of the spark plugs too. What do you think it could be? Thanks.
Oh yeah, the pin on the tool was pulled out but still couldn't turn it.
Can you make a video about the READ unit and related noises? Thanks for everything.
Will do no problem
How long does a timing chain last on a 2012 Volvo XC70 3.2 engine? And roughly what does it cost to replace? And finally I had the accessories belt replaced at like 96k and now have 122k. Should I replace the water pump and tensioner now?
There no service for the timing chain I have not seen one fail yet. And as far as the tensioner and the water pump I would not be a bad idea to replace them now.
@@TheVolvoGuy awesome thank you for the quick reply. I will do that this week than. is there anything else you recommend? I ask as it seems to be that not all Volvo dealerships seem to say the same thing when it comes to recommended repairs. Like I had one shop said I need to replace my rear shocks, but two other dealerships have said nothing about them. Also I have been changing the transmission fluid every 50k just as prevented maintenance. How much more life do you think I will get out of it for doing this?
@@SterlingSigurdsen I have seen them as high as 450k miles and run good. I have a 2007 different engine but mine got 310k miles on it drives very strong and smooth.
Great video. Can I remove the valve cover without removing the timing chain cover? Or can I just remove the top bolts that attach the timing chain cover to the valve cover?
You have to remove the timing chain to remove the valve cover no way around it.
@@TheVolvoGuy Thanks. Can you explain why the timing chain has to be removed too? If the valve cover is attached to the back of the timing chain cover, then can't I just remove the cover to the timing chain (and not the entire timing chain removal and installation steps), which would release the bolts that go into the valve cover? Thanks for your help! I have cylinder misfires on 4,5,6. And spark plug 6 has oil on it, as well as a little bit of oil at the bottom of the spark plug well where the spark plug sits. Wondering if it is an o-ring seal or valve cover gasket.
@@TheVolvoGuy I have a question the other way around. Can I remove inner timing cover and replace the inner seal without removing the valve cover? If not, while doing the timing using special tool, is there a chance that the cam be installed 180 off?
@@ronalddelapaz8696 you do not need to remove the valve cover to replace the inner timing cover seal. If you use the tools you can not install the cam 180 off the tools will not fit.
@@TheVolvoGuyCool. Do I need to use the crank tool first if I remove the inner timing cover? Any chance of losing the cam timing once the inner cover is removed?
How kilometers originál servis Chain timming?
There is no maintenance intervals for the timing chain.
hey what socket do you use to remove the head bolts
Watch my tool video I show it there its a triple torqx
Just confirming when You put the hubs on the end of the cams they can be in any position (on the correct cams of course ) ,,,,there is no specific ‘ spot or marks’ for orientation for the hubs to be when installing onto the cams. You just put them on, attach the holding tool to tighten the centre cam bolt ( once the chain is tight first ) ..then this should fire right up of course with the crank tool installed and the cam tool at cylinder #1 end
Yes the correct cam tool and crank tool installed the cam gears can be any where.
Volvo Master, I need more guidance, please. Ebay tool kit I bought does not fit into the crank. The pins are slightly off. I'm beyond the 14 day return policy. Also, I noticed your tool has the piece that insters into the crank (crank quide aligner) to help line it up properly into the crank. Ebay tool does not. I called Volvo in Seattle and got a part number. Clearly not the right tool for the application. Do you have a part number for your crank lock tool? I followed your link to Amazon but that kit looks so much like the one I have I'm hesitant to spend another $150+ again for something that isn't going to work. Suggestions, please, sir.
I have never used an after market tools to be honest with you. But if you go to google and search volvo tools. You will find the volvo tools website and you can type the tool numbers I have in the tools video description and it will show you the tool number and photo of the tool. Also in my first video I show all the tools and I listed all the numbers in description. Some of the guys who used the Amazon tool kit they told me it works good. Send me you email please and I will be able to help you better.
What is your email?
@@TheVolvoGuy lupegarza76@gmail.com
I may have found one on FreedomRacing. They had two. One was $20 more but then drawing looked more like what I need. I can send you the screenshot if you're willing to assist. You now have my email, sir.
Where can I get these tools cause I don’t messed up
Volvotechinfo.com
Hi, thank you for your video it is very clear and informative. I have a question. My round seal at the bottom on timing chain cover is leaking. Is it possible to replace the seal without removing timing chain cover while the engine in the car. Also, do u know the official name for the seal and the link for just a seal tool so I can purchase it. Thank you.
Sorry for the delay. The seal can be replaced with out taking the timing covers off with the engine in the car. For the tool I was not able to find an after market tool you would have to go to the dealer. I will put up the tool number and the seal part number for you.
You're an exceptional teacher. Question: (2008, lr2, 3.2L.) Need to remove valve cover; leaky sparkplug seals. How to remove passenger side block of metal with motor mount attached? I am 65 yr old layman. Is that piece holding the engine up?
Yes it is there is a tool that you have to install on the passenger side of the lower part of the engine that will hold the engine on the frame so you can remove the motor mount.
thanks, this is helpful. to my knowledge, I have followed the steps just to replace the valve cover, but after having put everything back, the crank does not turn. what should I do to fix it?
Does it turn at all or is it jammed?
it moves a bit but not turn. if I turn it back, it moves a few degrees, but forward is just a degree or two.
@@peshwaz did you use the tools to time the engine? Also did you remove the valves tappets?
I did use the tools, except for for the one you use to open the first polly. and no I did not remove the tappens.
@@peshwaz if you locked the crank with the tool and you locked the Camshafts with the other tool and the got the timing chain tight and then got the camshafts pulleys tight then remove the tools. Then it should turn just fine.