Will This Method Actually Hold the Roof Up?
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- Опубликовано: 2 июл 2024
- Building a pole barn
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My comment …. Do what you want, I’ll sit and watch. 👍
Lots of self deprecating humor today. You're a good sport, Brock :)
You would be a fool errand for me to try to portray myself as some kind of a pole barn building expert
The fact that you stay so motivated doing all that you do working alone is admirable. I, for one, appreciate the time you take sharing your experience. I have learned a few things from you. Mostly what not to do by sharing your mistakes. The learning to not feel rushed has been, and is, still a challenge for me on my projects. Every day, I remind myself, "It's not about the destination. It's about the journey."
The old timers that built a lot of our outbuildings had no training but they did have a lot of salvage material on site. When they tied the header or any support beams in they cut 3/8 angle iron into brackets, drilled holes into it, and then lagged them into place for support. I think your triangle brace works fine but you could always shore it up with a plate over the angle braces if it worries you.
You'll notice that prefab rafters will have a thin steel rafter plate on those joins.. a economical and lighter version of the same thing.. Even rafter plate stapled onto the side of those angle braces with your nailer will not interfere with the strapping you plan to install.
General rule of thumb - it's got to be able to hold the hanging weight of a deer or two come season 😄
Brock, I seem to spend half my time looking for something that I have misplaced so don't beat yourself up about it because you are NOT alone! Many of us do the same as you.
I know some people like to rush through things but if I am doing it for myself, I like to take my time.
With the siding, that angle brace will take a lot of the load off the 2×6. Go with it.
Neil from DDDIY says even if you do 1 small thing every day its still progress
I loved his series on building the old lawn tractor like that
If it's just for equipment you could forego the concrete slab. You already have a shop for equipment repairs. The gravel is more than sufficient to keep your equipment dry and mud free.
If you toe nail up the side of the 45 too, it will add more than just shooting through the foot. That would push out under load. But, that type bracing is strong. Lag bolt look structural, but are not. 5 nails is plenty strong. If that gives you have bigger issues happening. I laughed when you sang Green Acres
Brock I think with board and batton siding that will add considerable strength to the header and if you nail your siding into your triangle bracing your woodshed will be very strong. Enjoyable video Brock.Thanks
You might want to consider getting a loader jib pole attachment. That'll let you reach much higher than the forks can go, albeit with the caveat that you'll have to carefully sling rig something like the header board you were lifting.
Brock I’m 57 years old and partially retired. I watch your videos because you are a real and honest person. I have been working and building stuff since I was about 15 and i still learn almost daily on better ways to do stuff. I regards to your pace. When I retired from my full time job my wife and I both decided we will work and do things around our property, but like you I don’t want to rush and I want to do things at my own pace.
May the lord bless and protect you and building your wood shed
Thank you
Very interesting, but I think safety glasses would be a good idea with the nailer!
It'll be just fine! "Professional" builders build them like that all the time and they hold up fine.
Brock, this is your channel, do it the way you want to do it. Makes good content. If it attracts viewers, it’s a money maker for you. Edit out what you don’t want to show, and smile when you go to the bank! 🤣
Just purchased a 660 clone and a chainsaw milling so I don't waste the mature pines I'm clearing
Sometimes spending on tooling is worth it in the long run
I really enjoy watching your videos 🙂
After you install your horizontal girts you could face nail the angled braces to the inside of the girt and the inside of the header.
I have to say, you and me both on the misplacing everything!!! One day everything will finally have its "place", hopefully before "its place" is somewhere else 😂
On your angle bracing, if your going to place it under the outer beam, lay it out so you can cut a 1.5" to 2" flat stop on bottom end of your angle brace and set that on one of your horizontal girts, where it also meets the outer vertical member you attached under the beam (on the post). This will better transfer the load to the column. At the top, I would use either a Fastenmaster HeadLok screw (of sufficient length to end up with between 2" to 2.5" into the beam) or GRK makes a similar large washer head construction screw (these have ~3/8" diameter shanks), drive the screw thru the diagonal brace perpendicular to the bottom edge of the brace (so it is going up at a 45 degree angle the opposite way of the brace) so that it enters the beam at about 2" to 2.5" from the closed point of the beam to brace junction (so on the one in the video you would want the screw to enter the beam 2" to 2.5" to the left of the right edge of the brace to beam contact point). This will take a long screw so you may want to pre-drill a portion of it in the diagonal brace, to make it easier to drive it in, but with the washer style head and driving the screw perpendicular to the lower edge of the diagonal brace, you will not need to countersink for the head of the screw. The HeadLok screws are available in 6", 8", 10" and 12" lengths (plus some shorter lengths that don't apply here) and have 2" of thread on the end, great for making this a tight connection. The GRK versions have longer threading which will not benefit you in this connection and may make it harder to get the connection drawn tight, but they will work. This is all in addition to to any nailing you do, though I would set the bottom of the diagonal brace in first, tight into the corner of the horizontal girt and your vertical member, then drive the upper screw to get draw that tight, then any nailing you want to do to the upper connection.
Another option if you aren't doing bookshelf framing between the posts is to put your brace inside the outer header ad face nail away, the bottom would end against the post. You can then add angle cut filler pieces to the outside of the angel brace to fit tight under the beam and down to any horizontal girts and/or down to the vertical member you are installing on the outside of the post. Face nail those onto the diagonal brace, if everything is cut to fit fairly tightly you should be good to go. This method will make bookshelf framing difficult but I don't see a real advantage to bookshelf framing if you are unlikely to ever enclose this and want to add an inner wall "panel".
Unfortunately it is a lot easier to draw this stuff or explain it in person than it is to type it out in words here, hopefully that all make sense and is just the way I would handle it, but it is not the only way of course.
Have a good one!!👍
Good morning !!! You will need to X-brace the horizontal plane at the roof level. I’ve done all my sheds with cable X-bracing in each bay @ the roof level. Looks great sir!!! 👍👍🔥🔥
Hey I learned most of my life lessons on Gilligan's island 😂😂
Brock….. I betcha can’t whistle either.😂
That angle brace is fine and will provide plenty of lateral strength to building. Keeping moving forward Brock. 👍
Enjoy your content and the fact that it may seem like a waste of time. You have a different perspective on things and you don't sugar coat anything. thanks
As a kid I didn't watch Gilligan's Island to see Gilligan.😂
#MaryAnn
I know you are RIGHT about that!
I don't care for toenailing as a method to fasten lumber. It is done allot and works fine. I just don't consider it proper or best. I really like pocket screwing or countersinking bolts. Just my preference. Thanks for sharing. I think you are doing fine.
that type of angle brace is just fine
Should be plenty strong with the siding nailed into it as well. If you are really worried about it, you could use a joist hanger to hold it but like you said, it's just a wood shed.
To add strength you should notch the post so the 2x6 ends are actually resting on the posts instead of all the weigh of your roof relying on a shear force on the nails. Over time, the wood expands and contracts. That movement causes the holes to enlarge around the nails. I am a retired engineer. Built it however you want, Brock, but since you are asking for advice and opinions, I am giving you structural advice.
Secondly, 13 feet spans are fairly long for 2x6s supporting a roof structure. The point load in the middle of those spans will be significant. You may not see any heavy snow loads where you live, but you should design for worst-case scenarios. Now, is the time to make changes, if you are open to taking advice.
It all depends on the weight of the roof structure, under a worst-case scenario. I suggest you research wood beam calculations, before you go further in the construction.
i love "Green Acres"
the episodes are free to stream on RUclips. I’ve been watching it this week.
Howdy Brock! Don't overthink it brother. Run a long screw through each end of your angle brace and call it good. If you have some all weather wood glue laying around slop some of that on as well. You would probably be fine without them, but a little extra bracing never hurts. Great idea adding the scraps to the posts under the headers. If you are worried about your nails backing out, run a few 6" screws into each header. Unless you are planning on 3 feet of wet snow on the roof, there is plenty of strength there. Looking good - thanks for sharing 🤠
I enjoy your videos and watch about all you put out. I made the comment about notching the post, I wasn't criticizing you, that is just the way I have done on the things I have built. you do it the way you think is best. On the gussets you are putting on, I would cut it on a 45 degree angle to fit behind the beam and nail it straight to the beam then toenail it to the side of the post, then cut another gusset and toenail it to the bottom of your beam and the to the outside of the post. You will have to cut some of the board off you nailed to the post already, I would cut it on a 45 degree angle so the gusset will fit right up to the bottom. You will then have a doubled brace there that can't move.
Man you have sure lost the weight, I am on the carnivore diet too and have do it off and on for a year or so. When I am pretty strict carnivore I really feel better, you should let us know how you feel while on the carnivore diet.
Sales man: How many nails you need?
Brock: Yes!
xD dude, you know a lot more than me, but man, that must be an overuse of number of nails lol
Good stuff Brock. 👀
I like it.
It’s a woodshed…your build style will do just fine.
Brock: Lag bolts are expensive....
Also Brock: Proceeds to put 146 nails into one board!!!
HAHA Just bustin b@ll$ Do it however YOU want. I'm enjoying the content and will probably be doing something similar here soon! Keep 'em coming!
It's a little late, but I find using a few old pallets can give me the height I am lacking.
Morning!
Mornin'! 🤠
Ok so there are a few things here I think you can do. First, the way you put the tow-nail brace definitely adds strength. If you leave it that way I would put triangular plywood cutouts over them nailed to all three pieces of wood. SECOND, you could use metal hangers witch would add to the price witch I’ve heard you say many times I don’t want to spend a lot of money. Hi five to that statement by the way. 🦾 THIRD, you could put three of these same tow-nail on the inside of the headers, sandwiched between the two headers you explained earlier. I would definitely be using long screws for tow-nail cuts with no notches. Your doing great. 🧬☀️
Looks good, do it. The wood siding will add strength.
I would t even worry about that yet. Everything will eventually fall into place and im sure it will be strong enough when its done unless God forbid you get a tornado or 5' of wet snow.
set a box or some kind of spacer on the forks and set the boards on that to raise them on that one side...
Lots of options. I thought about doing something like that, but the ladder and clamps also worked.
#63 , just busy I'm going to my parents from today to Monday to work on their blueberry patch to keep birds out and mow all the food plots, so I have a lot to do before I leave . My 3 cents r to put your basket on and put boards on that and lift up . But I'm sure u needed the exercise 🤪great job with all u do . & have a happy 4 th to cowboy & u . I don't rush either I putter . If I am tired I take a nap . Exactly it's a wood shed , your not living in it yet 🤪😝 if you are putting another header on it , I would flip it around and cut a 45 and toe nail it in the post and have the cut off 45 come up and nail to the post and the brace , I think that the board that u put under the header doesn't have to be 2or 3 feet long cut in half or into 1/3 . Ok well I probably didn't explain it good so as u said before don't listen to me 😂😝🤪 great job Brock
Howdy Todd! Yeah... we were gone for a week when my cherry tree ripened and the birds devastated it. Nothing but pits and bird poop left lol. Have a safe 4th of July! 🤠
Pole barns were built that way for years.
Great Video Brock. Seems like the headers could use more nails.....
With the way you described doing the double header…. Will this drop your overhead clearance another 6+ inches? Or will that not matter much for you? I can see it won’t be much of a problem on the back wall/ header area.
@freepatriot6313 with the two headers being separated by 5 1/2 inches. The roof drop in that 5 1/2 inches should be maybe a quarter of an inch.
It will not affect the overhead height, any noticeable amount
@@RockhillfarmYT … oh I guess I misunderstood. I thought the second header would be supporting the rafters from underneath them. Where they continued on to fasten to the outside/ original header.
good morning its good you don't want codes cause I don't know codes so I just wing it like you but I believe. In my opinion it will hold i have built a lot of things i learn when watching these videos thats I can't see what you see and I don't live there and there are many ways to do it thats will hold so that my opinion
I think it's gonna be strong enough with these supports...I'm an electrician ,so I know these things.
pc
When you say shed, what kind of shed? A wood shed? A tractor shed? I suppose anything will do for a wood shed as long as it keeps the wood dry. If you're going to put your machines in there, you won't want it falling apart over your tractor hood... i understand you don't have much snow load to worry about, and that's great, but what about wind? It's just something to think about. Pole barns have proven themselves over many years, so the theory is solid, but thats a nervous amount of spacing you have right now. It's really hard to help when I can't see the drawings in your head. Your structure is half pole barn and half sideways 2x4s. At first glance, it doesn't seem like it's going to be very strong but I dont know how strong you need it to be. How are you going to roof it? Tin? From the looks of it a standard shingle roof would be quite heavy for the structure you've built so far. A metal roof would seem to be more appropriate. I myself might get a little nervous getting on top of what you have there to nail on shingles. But I can't really tell what your end goal is yet. So it's really hard to help. If you had a drawing of your end goal, perhaps?
That ain't going no where
Just add end blocks on the braces and they won't slip
You being relatively new to the game, I peg you to be more like Oliver Wendell Douglas. But he was smart, persistent, and an all around good fellow!
I will have to Google who that is
@@RockhillfarmYT You sing the song all the time!
I had never really watched it. Just took in a few episodes. Good stuff.
ruclips.net/video/aqWTfFDOZXk/видео.htmlsi=Ljw9JNdXMukEPAZJ
@@RockhillfarmYT There's a real good one where the old broken down tractor that Mr. Haney sold him blows a head gasket and he can't find parts. He uses some of his wife's inedible hotcakes to fix the tractor, it's a hoot!
pssshhh ..code , I'm with ya if its strong and no life or limb is at stake it'll do.
That's a lot of nails.
Ive watched all and enjoyed your videos Brock, but I couldnt get through this one because, I feel it is a poor build. A good wind and your building is going to fly away my friend IMHO.
I appreciate your opinion, but I completely disagree.
It’s OK for us to disagree, but I think this building will be here in 50 years after I’m gone