Supersprint setup driving in this video: Motor: 3660 1400KV ESC: Flycolor 90A Battery: Turnigy Graphene 6S 1200mAh 75C RTR Weight: 1347g CG position: 120mm from the stern (measured from rear end of the hull) Nozzle: +10 Ride plate: Default 9 Turn fins: Long 16 Intake grate: Loading grate default Join the official M-Jet Facebook group! facebook.com/groups/623045356071128 Supersprint files available for purchase: www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/other/m-jet-sprint-3d-printable-rc-jetsprint-boat-model Supersprint hardware kit by RCPrinter: rcprinter.com/products/m-jet-supersprint-v1-0-build-kits
Nice handling. If I may ask: what runtime are you getting from those 1200 mAh? And on a more experimental tone, have you ever tried upscaling this drive to 35mm to validate its behavior for example with a 4074 motor in a larger hull instead of using the M-Jet 35 directly? I am asking since you performed additionnal optimization on the impeller which AFAIK have not yet been ported to the M-Jet 35. In any case, excellent project as always. Kudos.
@@geekmidget So in this video the 6s 1200mAh was drained in the end. Those 2 mins were all I got. I think the battery is getting a bit old, but at the same time the full throttle passes really drain it quickly. With some less agressive driving I can get 5-10 mins. To your second question - good point and I did not try that. It is true that if I transfer the additional impeller optimisation back to the M-Jet 35, it should gain a few % of efficiency. There is one pragmatic disadvantage to it - there are some people who got multiple metal M-Jet 35 impellers and sometimes sell them, I don't want to introduce another M-Jet 35 version and screw those guys, and at the same time create confusion about which impeller is which, etc. Therefore what I am more aiming towards is proceeding a bit further with the whole design, not just the impeller, and introduce the improvements later together in a bigger, meaningful and significant pack. We will see.
@@mjetdevelopment during recent design iterations for my own project of a drive optimized for wave riding, a thought crossed my mind: your hub increases diameter evenly, but perhaps it would be beneficial increasing hub angle at 1st stage impeller (where pitch is lower) to approach mixed flow faster, then leave it parallel to the axis or with a very low angle for stator part to reduce power demand (since torque-wise it's a passive element). The 4mm 304 SS shafts I received for my project was bent so I am waiting for a 6mm titanium alloy shaft, with ceramic bearings and mechanical seal, to see if I can finish my own design, although in my case I intend to use 3-5 blades for 1st stage impeller and one or two for 2nd stage, I guess there is no way around it other than building and testing the variations.
Just finished mine yesterday runs great really appreciate your work. Be nice to have a video discussing how the different ride plates and turn fins etc adjust the ride
New to this jet design, seems so nice! Any upcoming design in metal ? Do you think it could it be done bigger for larger boat ? 32-36" (e.g Impulse/SonicWake)
@@QuebecoisSti Thanks! How do you mean, designs in metal? You can take a look at the M-Jet 35 (search my channel) which is designed for a 3D printed metal impeller. The M-Jet 35 with the most powerful electronics would be able to push a 32-36" hull, although it is preferred for 20-30" hulls.
@@mjetdevelopment I mean if it is doable in metal from some company services like PCBWay or elsewhere (eg. Milling CNC at home). Sometimes doing the design for 3d printing means it's pretty hard or even not possible in standard machining. However, I assumed being done in an engineering material on a resin printer might be much smoother and stronger than FDM printers, especially since the 4-8K nowadays Greetings from Eastern Canada
@@QuebecoisSti I definitely don't recommend trying to machine the parts, they are not designed for it at all, some areas especially internal geometry is impossible to machine. You can get PCBway to print it for you in aluminum but then you can't insert the threaded inserts. That said, I really see no reason to use metal for most of the parts. They are designed for FDM printing with the loads in mind, they don't break. The only parts where I see benefits when metal is used are the impeller and the intake grate. The M-Jet 35 has those options.
Nice demo ! It got me started on listing my parts, but I have a problem. The only motor size I have available that's close to the recommended KV is a 3680 1500KV 36L. Is there enough space inside for it ?
I don't recommend a 3680. You would probably have to grind away part of the hull joint, and there will be very little space to insert the battery. If you have trouble finding low KV motors for 6s, you can consider building a 4s setup. You can find some inspiration in the M-Jet community: facebook.com/groups/623045356071128
@@mjetdevelopment Thank you for responding. As I'm also a 6S FPV pilot, I'll stay with that config ;) I tried to look on other websites but didn't find a 3660 in 1400KV. Do you have the link to the one you're using in this video ?
@@lucadurano4214 Unfortunately all stores I knew which offered a 3660 with appropriate KV are now out of stock (the M-Jet community seems to have removed them from the market:) You could also try searching for a 3670 which does decrease battery space but still fits geometrically. Ships from US: rcjuice.com/collections/boat-motors/products/hobbystar-3670-4-pole-brushless-sensorless-boat-motor-waterproof?variant=47585211121959 Another possibility is, if you are going to use a 90A ESC, with the 6S setup you could increase the KV a bit more because the ESC is overpowered. The motor will be warmer and less efficient but still safe and you'll get crazy speeds, so you can search for up to 1600KV for example. Will result in less runtime. I will post some links which right now are not in stock, maybe if you really can't find any you can contact them and ask if they are going to restock it. hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-aquastar-3660-1460kv-water-cooled-brushless-motor.html?wrh_pdp=3 www.tfl-hobby.de/Motore--Halter--usw-/Brushless/TFL-36-mm/3660-und-65/ tppower.de/epages/bd5f179c-685e-4a79-bbe0-e825a2cc9e1a.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/bd5f179c-685e-4a79-bbe0-e825a2cc9e1a/Categories/Stock/St_TP36XX/St_TP3630
Man sick run, I build mine but the only issue I’m having is making the shaft, is there anywhere where I can just buy one that’s already cut to the perfect dimensions and perfectly straight?!
Thanks! I think getting it machined could be quite expensive. I recommend buying a 5mm stainless steel rod and doing the rest of the machining yourself. I bought the rod from a local hardware store that sells all kinds of metal materials. It does not need to be "perfectly" straight, just straight enough:) There might also be a Supersprint hardware kit from a partner in the future, but that will still take some time.
The handling is influenced by many things, there is a section about handling in the manual, page 8: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1f-epKNBlcqGcuJU5rGvYQleL7ayPnrRe?usp=sharing The "Example Supersprint Setup: Designer's Choice" is what's driving in this video: Motor: 3660 1400KV ESC: Flycolor 90A Battery: Turnigy Graphene 6S 1200mAh 75C RTR Weight: 1347g CG position: 120mm from the stern (measured from rear end of the hull) Nozzle: +10 Ride plate: Default 9 Turn fins: Long 16 Intake grate: Loading grate default
The purpose of a hydrofoil is to rise the hull above water. If you rise a jetboat above the water, the intake won't get any water and lose performance, therefore building a hydrofoil jetboat would require a different solution of where to place the pump. I am not going into that.
hi I want to build but i dont no when i flip the boat over I must get it from the water I must swim to get the boat or I can use the remote to rotate the boat up
@@lots_haus The Supersprint has self righting. When built correctly with components placed according to the manual, it will always flip itself back to the correct position.
That runs very well and beside that a very beautiful lake and nice weather. Over here in the Netherlands it is like we only have rain this year. It is crazy. Sometimes one or two days that are a bit better. But lots of rain for months on end. Do you know the top speed of that boat?
Thanks! Yeah it's a very nice place, northern Czechia. I don't have a GPS but from frames of the video it's between 40 and 50kph. The best Supersprint setups people built in the M-Jet facebook group achieve about 50kph.
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Supersprint setup driving in this video:
Motor: 3660 1400KV
ESC: Flycolor 90A
Battery: Turnigy Graphene 6S 1200mAh 75C
RTR Weight: 1347g
CG position: 120mm from the stern (measured from rear end of the hull)
Nozzle: +10
Ride plate: Default 9
Turn fins: Long 16
Intake grate: Loading grate default
Join the official M-Jet Facebook group!
facebook.com/groups/623045356071128
Supersprint files available for purchase:
www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/other/m-jet-sprint-3d-printable-rc-jetsprint-boat-model
Supersprint hardware kit by RCPrinter:
rcprinter.com/products/m-jet-supersprint-v1-0-build-kits
Nice handling. If I may ask: what runtime are you getting from those 1200 mAh?
And on a more experimental tone, have you ever tried upscaling this drive to 35mm to validate its behavior for example with a 4074 motor in a larger hull instead of using the M-Jet 35 directly? I am asking since you performed additionnal optimization on the impeller which AFAIK have not yet been ported to the M-Jet 35.
In any case, excellent project as always. Kudos.
@@geekmidget So in this video the 6s 1200mAh was drained in the end. Those 2 mins were all I got. I think the battery is getting a bit old, but at the same time the full throttle passes really drain it quickly. With some less agressive driving I can get 5-10 mins.
To your second question - good point and I did not try that. It is true that if I transfer the additional impeller optimisation back to the M-Jet 35, it should gain a few % of efficiency. There is one pragmatic disadvantage to it - there are some people who got multiple metal M-Jet 35 impellers and sometimes sell them, I don't want to introduce another M-Jet 35 version and screw those guys, and at the same time create confusion about which impeller is which, etc. Therefore what I am more aiming towards is proceeding a bit further with the whole design, not just the impeller, and introduce the improvements later together in a bigger, meaningful and significant pack. We will see.
@@mjetdevelopment during recent design iterations for my own project of a drive optimized for wave riding, a thought crossed my mind: your hub increases diameter evenly, but perhaps it would be beneficial increasing hub angle at 1st stage impeller (where pitch is lower) to approach mixed flow faster, then leave it parallel to the axis or with a very low angle for stator part to reduce power demand (since torque-wise it's a passive element).
The 4mm 304 SS shafts I received for my project was bent so I am waiting for a 6mm titanium alloy shaft, with ceramic bearings and mechanical seal, to see if I can finish my own design, although in my case I intend to use 3-5 blades for 1st stage impeller and one or two for 2nd stage, I guess there is no way around it other than building and testing the variations.
Beautiful lake and boat.
Just finished mine yesterday runs great really appreciate your work. Be nice to have a video discussing how the different ride plates and turn fins etc adjust the ride
@@psychoklr77 Thanks for the suggestion, yeah it would deserve a video!
@ 1:06 Man that Jetboat is fast...
Excellent work.
Keep on sharing 👍
Holy cow it is fast
Go go go!!!!!
Sooooo coool
New to this jet design, seems so nice! Any upcoming design in metal ? Do you think it could it be done bigger for larger boat ? 32-36" (e.g Impulse/SonicWake)
@@QuebecoisSti Thanks!
How do you mean, designs in metal?
You can take a look at the M-Jet 35 (search my channel) which is designed for a 3D printed metal impeller.
The M-Jet 35 with the most powerful electronics would be able to push a 32-36" hull, although it is preferred for 20-30" hulls.
@@mjetdevelopment I mean if it is doable in metal from some company services like PCBWay or elsewhere (eg. Milling CNC at home).
Sometimes doing the design for 3d printing means it's pretty hard or even not possible in standard machining.
However, I assumed being done in an engineering material on a resin printer might be much smoother and stronger than FDM printers, especially since the 4-8K nowadays
Greetings from Eastern Canada
@@QuebecoisSti I definitely don't recommend trying to machine the parts, they are not designed for it at all, some areas especially internal geometry is impossible to machine.
You can get PCBway to print it for you in aluminum but then you can't insert the threaded inserts.
That said, I really see no reason to use metal for most of the parts. They are designed for FDM printing with the loads in mind, they don't break.
The only parts where I see benefits when metal is used are the impeller and the intake grate. The M-Jet 35 has those options.
@@QuebecoisSti Smoothness of the prints from a resin printer is a different story, smooth surfaces considerably improve efficiency.
Nice demo ! It got me started on listing my parts, but I have a problem. The only motor size I have available that's close to the recommended KV is a 3680 1500KV 36L. Is there enough space inside for it ?
I don't recommend a 3680. You would probably have to grind away part of the hull joint, and there will be very little space to insert the battery.
If you have trouble finding low KV motors for 6s, you can consider building a 4s setup. You can find some inspiration in the M-Jet community:
facebook.com/groups/623045356071128
@@mjetdevelopment Thank you for responding. As I'm also a 6S FPV pilot, I'll stay with that config ;) I tried to look on other websites but didn't find a 3660 in 1400KV. Do you have the link to the one you're using in this video ?
@@lucadurano4214 Unfortunately all stores I knew which offered a 3660 with appropriate KV are now out of stock (the M-Jet community seems to have removed them from the market:)
You could also try searching for a 3670 which does decrease battery space but still fits geometrically.
Ships from US:
rcjuice.com/collections/boat-motors/products/hobbystar-3670-4-pole-brushless-sensorless-boat-motor-waterproof?variant=47585211121959
Another possibility is, if you are going to use a 90A ESC, with the 6S setup you could increase the KV a bit more because the ESC is overpowered. The motor will be warmer and less efficient but still safe and you'll get crazy speeds, so you can search for up to 1600KV for example. Will result in less runtime.
I will post some links which right now are not in stock, maybe if you really can't find any you can contact them and ask if they are going to restock it.
hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-aquastar-3660-1460kv-water-cooled-brushless-motor.html?wrh_pdp=3
www.tfl-hobby.de/Motore--Halter--usw-/Brushless/TFL-36-mm/3660-und-65/
tppower.de/epages/bd5f179c-685e-4a79-bbe0-e825a2cc9e1a.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/bd5f179c-685e-4a79-bbe0-e825a2cc9e1a/Categories/Stock/St_TP36XX/St_TP3630
Man sick run, I build mine but the only issue I’m having is making the shaft, is there anywhere where I can just buy one that’s already cut to the perfect dimensions and perfectly straight?!
Thanks! I think getting it machined could be quite expensive. I recommend buying a 5mm stainless steel rod and doing the rest of the machining yourself. I bought the rod from a local hardware store that sells all kinds of metal materials. It does not need to be "perfectly" straight, just straight enough:)
There might also be a Supersprint hardware kit from a partner in the future, but that will still take some time.
Awesome video. My supersprint spins out whenever I try to turn at high speed. Maybe I need longer turn fins or something?
The handling is influenced by many things, there is a section about handling in the manual, page 8:
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1f-epKNBlcqGcuJU5rGvYQleL7ayPnrRe?usp=sharing
The "Example Supersprint Setup: Designer's Choice" is what's driving in this video:
Motor: 3660 1400KV
ESC: Flycolor 90A
Battery: Turnigy Graphene 6S 1200mAh 75C
RTR Weight: 1347g
CG position: 120mm from the stern (measured from rear end of the hull)
Nozzle: +10
Ride plate: Default 9
Turn fins: Long 16
Intake grate: Loading grate default
It;s finaly out
Then can you make a m jet sprint based highfoil mod?
The purpose of a hydrofoil is to rise the hull above water. If you rise a jetboat above the water, the intake won't get any water and lose performance, therefore building a hydrofoil jetboat would require a different solution of where to place the pump. I am not going into that.
hi I want to build but i dont no when i flip the boat over I must get it from the water I must swim to get the boat or I can use the remote to rotate the boat up
@@lots_haus The Supersprint has self righting. When built correctly with components placed according to the manual, it will always flip itself back to the correct position.
Can you make a m jet 35 based submarine?
No, I honestly don't get why you would want to drive something you can't see:D
Whid on fpv Carrara
And what 3d printer are you useing
Modified Voron 2.4 300
thats a pond not a lake.
🤓
That runs very well and beside that a very beautiful lake and nice weather. Over here in the Netherlands it is like we only have rain this year. It is crazy. Sometimes one or two days that are a bit better. But lots of rain for months on end.
Do you know the top speed of that boat?
Thanks! Yeah it's a very nice place, northern Czechia.
I don't have a GPS but from frames of the video it's between 40 and 50kph. The best Supersprint setups people built in the M-Jet facebook group achieve about 50kph.