I, I, I I don't know I like your recommendation for winter storage that is grow the leaders or laterals close to the ground or to put it another way grow a horizontal Cordon close to the ground for easy covering by tarps or straw . Those spindly trunks you show at 10:53 I would bend down to the horizontal or 45° . In your lesson on atypical dormance nodes will develop buds then branches rising verticle . For potted fig trees that wouldn't work because of the winter storage but in ground it seem doable because a tarp or straw over the low tree would be easier to protect the tree
@ the 8:40 you talk about the light the tree receives. I have been informed that bud sprouting is dependent on light ao a shaded bud will not produce a branch .in my experience shaded nodes will develop a branch . . .I don't know if that's true . Pear trees with shaded nodes ( not buds) will sprout branches but I take heed from the experts and have allowed direct sunlight to hit those places on the trunk where I wish to have branches
My new Vasilika Melissi cutting has produced a green fig before putting out leaves or buds. I don't see roots yet. This cutting is about 4-5 weeks young.
Great video (again) Ross! Question: at 9:18 there is a blue cloth bag on the side of your green house with something in it. What is the purpose of that bag? It looks like leaves? Just curious. Thank you again for all the information you share with us!
So, you're growing these widely branched trees in rather large pots, these look like 10+ gallons. Are there any real downsides to growing more trees with only a single main trunk in 5 gallon pots and then having a higher number of trees per space? Other than extra watering to maintain consistent moisture, of course? I have these horrible windstorms and have to move them around all too often. Bigger than 5 gallon is not easy for me because of a handicap. Also, btw, some kind of bugs keep eating my VdB leaves like crazy, can't figure out what for sure, probably small grasshoppers. Does neem help?
The ones in the video were in a 5g. Growing a single fruiting branch per season per tree even if spacing is very tight would result in lower production. However you want to do it for your circumstance is up to you. There's no right or wrong answer. This is only what I recommend.
I know you have low cordons in your greenhouse. Have you tried that on any potted trees to compare to your open vase shaped training method here? Love to see the yield difference from the same variety.
Whatever form maximizes productive fruiting branches in the given space will be the most productive. I'm not sure it matters what the form is as the grower can influence the tree with proper training and pruning to achieve the above. What's more important is not just the quantity, but also the quality. It's hard to make an argument for either form right now, but I would guess that given good air flow the low cordon would be best.
Nothing wrong with a central leader. It's all about light maximization and whatever form does that for you, is what I recommend. Truthfully though.. a central leader is typically not what the fig tree wants to do. They form a rounded crown.
Waite a minute the atypical bud is the top bud weather the tree is pruned or not so in theory. My theory of thought process you will get the same vigorous from the top most bud whether is last years growth or this coming season pruned . What is the fancy word for trunk ? . Vertical leader. Now that I think about it tall spindle high density apple tree growing the Exoert says to not prune the the leader unti the tree reach to the top wire 9 feet above the soil so he is in agreement with your lesson here ruclips.net/video/rl1-9AIA1g8/видео.html this is the Expert but not the video I'm referring to
I, I, I I don't know I like your recommendation for winter storage that is grow the leaders or laterals close to the ground or to put it another way grow a horizontal Cordon close to the ground for easy covering by tarps or straw . Those spindly trunks you show at 10:53 I would bend down to the horizontal or 45° . In your lesson on atypical dormance nodes will develop buds then branches rising verticle . For potted fig trees that wouldn't work because of the winter storage but in ground it seem doable because a tarp or straw over the low tree would be easier to protect the tree
@ the 8:40 you talk about the light the tree receives. I have been informed that bud sprouting is dependent on light ao a shaded bud will not produce a branch
.in my experience shaded nodes will develop a branch . .
.I don't know if that's true . Pear trees with shaded nodes ( not buds) will sprout branches but I take heed from the experts and have allowed direct sunlight to hit those places on the trunk where I wish to have branches
My new Vasilika Melissi cutting has produced a green fig before putting out leaves or buds. I don't see roots yet. This cutting is about 4-5 weeks young.
Happens all the time. Remove any breba during the rooting process. Also I hope you have the fig wasp. That one is not common.
Great video (again) Ross! Question: at 9:18 there is a blue cloth bag on the side of your green house with something in it. What is the purpose of that bag? It looks like leaves? Just curious. Thank you again for all the information you share with us!
It's a very young fig tree that is just waking up from dormancy.
So, you're growing these widely branched trees in rather large pots, these look like 10+ gallons. Are there any real downsides to growing more trees with only a single main trunk in 5 gallon pots and then having a higher number of trees per space? Other than extra watering to maintain consistent moisture, of course? I have these horrible windstorms and have to move them around all too often. Bigger than 5 gallon is not easy for me because of a handicap.
Also, btw, some kind of bugs keep eating my VdB leaves like crazy, can't figure out what for sure, probably small grasshoppers. Does neem help?
The ones in the video were in a 5g. Growing a single fruiting branch per season per tree even if spacing is very tight would result in lower production. However you want to do it for your circumstance is up to you. There's no right or wrong answer. This is only what I recommend.
I know you have low cordons in your greenhouse. Have you tried that on any potted trees to compare to your open vase shaped training method here? Love to see the yield difference from the same variety.
Whatever form maximizes productive fruiting branches in the given space will be the most productive. I'm not sure it matters what the form is as the grower can influence the tree with proper training and pruning to achieve the above. What's more important is not just the quantity, but also the quality. It's hard to make an argument for either form right now, but I would guess that given good air flow the low cordon would be best.
What are You going to do when those trees are to big to fit in your poly tunnel?
V. Useful informations
Fig daddy is back 👀😝
Good video
Why don't you do single leader form? and btw that sock/tennis shoe combo is killing your brand lol
Nothing wrong with a central leader. It's all about light maximization and whatever form does that for you, is what I recommend. Truthfully though.. a central leader is typically not what the fig tree wants to do. They form a rounded crown.
Waite a minute the atypical bud is the top bud weather the tree is pruned or not so in theory. My theory of thought process you will get the same vigorous from the top most bud whether is last years growth or this coming season pruned . What is the fancy word for trunk ? . Vertical leader.
Now that I think about it tall spindle high density apple tree growing the Exoert says to not prune the the leader unti the tree reach to the top wire 9 feet above the soil so he is in agreement with your lesson here
ruclips.net/video/rl1-9AIA1g8/видео.html
this is the Expert but not the video I'm referring to