Making an HDRI with the Insta360 One RS 1-Inch Edition for rendering CG
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- Everything you need to know about using the Insta360 One RS 1-Inch Edition to make an HDRI 32bit equirectangular image using Insta360 Studio for stitching and Photoshop for merging the exposures. The result can then be used in Blender to render CGI HD
I just bought this camera. And you walked through the exact process that I was looking for. Thank you.
very helpful tutorial, thank you for sharing!
I have been waiting for someone to show this process with this camera. I have been looking at getting one for a few months. Thank you Sir :)
Glad it was helpful! I like this camera a lot. I also have used the previous gen (insta360 One RS), and this one is a very nice step up. Better battery, better form factor and better images. I recommend
Thank you so much for the detailed explaination.
Recentlymy HDRIs made with an equal method come out way darker than they used to couple of years ago. I still use the Insta 360 RS 2. Has anyone an idea why this is? They used to come out fine but within the last 6 month they kinda suck. Any solution? Thanx in advance
Do you mean the range of exposures the camera is taking , under similar lighting conditions, look darker? Or the result from Photoshop merge is darker? I have not noticed either I don’t think but I can keep an eye out
Hi thanks for this tutorial, I follow all the step but when I export from photoshop the HDRI image looks desaturated like the first image at 1/8000. Any idea how to solve this to get correct exposure for C4D/Blender ? Thanks
Did you export as a 32 bit image? If you bring it back into photoshop and put an exposure adjustment layer, does it look better at other exposures? If yes, it worked. If no, something didn’t work
Thank you, very nice tutorial!
Thank You much for this great tutorial! Really appreciated!
You're very welcome!
Alot of CG peeps use Ricoh's Theta Z1, I'm curious if you have any experience with this Z1 and how it might compare to the Insta 360's 1". As I understand it the auto bracketing on the 1" does not use a consistent ISO (I could be wrong though). The one inch sensors might make up the crappy auto bracketing.
Sorry I don’t have experience with that other camera. That could be true about the iso is not locked on the insta 360 but I would need to look more closely to confirm. But ultimately, a stop of light is a stop of light and it works well enough and is very easy.
Thanks for responding
Amazing comprehensive video youve put together here! Im sure there are those who will be able to put some use to it but its flabbergasting that they cannot make an auto mode more tailored to this use where we can constrain properties such as the fastest shutter speed is always where it starts from. The amount of time this ends up taking on set is equal to or more than that of a dslr fish eye, which is going to give you likely more resoilution and better image with more control of the shutter or ND etc. And I just cant keep bringing up the idea of using these until they work out an interface for it.
Yes I agree completely. My main use case for these is as a teaching tool, a gateway if you will. The inability to use an ND is the biggest issue I think
hello! When exporting to radiance, the colors are exported with damage. Is this normal?
No not normal. Not sure what would account for that
@@TrashPraxis The color appears as if the level value is slightly missing.
Jeeesssuussss. So there is no Automated HDRI bracketing? you got to do it manually? thats a bummer.
7:42 It’s automatic, one click for 9 exposures 1 stop apart. That’s the best it can do
I have an older model of the Insta360 One RS that's been sitting in the box untouched for a long time. Can I still shoot RAW DNG format on it to produce 360-degree HDRI images?
I don’t know sorry. You will have to look up that model
you are a life saver
Brilliant, thank you very much!
You're very welcome!
To speed up the process, can we load the DNG file directly into Photoshop without going through Insta Studio after shooting?
No. Before the Insta studio, the image contains two spherical fisheye images in one 4K image. These need to be combined into one equirectangular continuous image. Photoshop can’t do this
The Insta360 X3 has this option for multi bracketing too?
I don't own that one so I can't say, but probably
Hi, what about the HDRI image quality compare to the one captured with DSLR? The final HDRI's color seams quite different from your camera.
There is certainly differences between this and HDRI shot with DSLR. One difference is resolution. The DSLR will be able to make an 8k (or possibly even larger) result, here this will only make a 4K result. So DSLR will be sharper. But for lighting and reflections on 3D objects this is not much of an issue. The bigger issue is the insta360 camera can not take ND filter, and therefore never capture the full dynamic range of the sun. The trade off is that insta360 process is much easier and faster and can work in most circumstances, and the sun issue can be worked around
Thank you!👍@@TrashPraxis
Did you ever find a free or Open solution to the exposure merge?
No, still hunting. I spent some time trying to get meshroom to do it, but it didn’t ever work
Hugin is the open source alternative for PTGui, they share the same history/underlying tooling ("Panorama Tools"). Hugin is primarily used for panoramas but can align/stack HDRs.
what's the difference between using Photoshop and PTGui to merge dng files? I saw that 2 ways to get into it.🤔
I tested this and found no difference when merging with PTGui vs Photoshop
@@TrashPraxis appreciate for your reply❤
Thank you
Hi Kevin. Thanks for this video. I'm shooting HDRI's with a dslr and uses alot of photo's which take quite some time. This camera can be a great timesaver then! Do you also use the HDRI in a rendered image or is the resolution too low for that? And do you think this camera is a better option then the Insta 360 X3? Thanks!
Hi, these can be used for image based lighting, there is plenty of resolution. This video was made for a workshop on integrating cg rendered elements with live action photography. And yes I think this camera is the best option currently for this approach
I cannot for rhe life of me change it to raw+jpeg on the normal camera mode, it's driving me crazy. I did this test yesterday without the dng files and it just came out very soft in blender
It won’t get sharper with dng. Just has a bit more exposure data. The jpegs should result in a very similar HDRI
@@TrashPraxis I must be doing something wrong, everything just comes out kinda dull, it seems like a better method for reflections rather than hdris so far for me
@@PotatoMaGobinus yes you must be! After stitching, do you have 9 images, each a bit darker than the last? If yes, then it’s probably an issue in the Photoshop part. Maybe you have a tone mapped image and not a 32 bit floating point hdri. After you load all your images in photoshop, there is a toggle. It needs to be off. Check the video at 33:03
@@TrashPraxisI did all of that ☹️ one thing I am noticing tho is my insta 306 won't go as dark in values as yours does, I can go really high and blow everything out but just can't go that far making it darker
I have the older 360 and the images are pretty soft coming out of this camera. One solution is to shoot .DNG's and then stitch them in insta's software. Then using lightroom or PS batch uprez and sharpen (you could also sparingly use the denoising filters). Then take those images into PS or PTgui and
create your HRDI. You can use remove ghosts to sample out any artifacts from the sharpening and denoising.
"PromoSM"
what?