Mini Cooper Engine Installation (Part 2)
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 26 июл 2018
- Here is Part 2 of the 2007 Mini Cooper S engine and transmission install. Here’s a link to Part 1: • Mini Cooper Engine Ins...
In this episode I complete the installation of the engine and transmission into my Mini Cooper. I also start it up for the first time and I show you the procedures I go through when starting up an engine that’s had a significant amount of work done like this one has.
This video has a ton of information on the engine compartment of an R56 Mini Cooper.
I hope the information is useful to you.
I had some help with editing on this one from Javan Hovind.
My Patreon Account: / ericthecarguy
The best place for answers to your automotive questions: www.ericthecarguy.com
Check out the ETCG Blog for the latest info: www.ericthecarguy.com/blog
Check out my ETCG1 channel: / etcg1
Thanks for watching!
Tools
Ingersoll Rand 3/8" Impact: www.jbtoolsales.com/ingersoll...
1/4” Milwaukee Driver: www.milwaukeetool.com/Product...
Spill Free Funnel: www.jbtoolsales.com/lisle-246...
Gorilla Glue: www.jbtoolsales.com/gorilla-g...
Milwaukee Light: www.milwaukeetool.com/Product...
HondaBond: www.amazon.com/Hondabond-High...
Parts
Valve Cover (Cheap): www.ebay.com/itm/New-Engine-V...
Amsoil (Use code: 5577430): www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...
Pentosen MTF-LT-4: www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-...
Mini Coolant: www.detroittuned.com/mini-anti...
Related Videos
Mini Cooper Engine Installation (Part 1): • Mini Cooper Engine Ins...
Don’t Let This Happen To You!: • Don't Let This Happen ...
How To Clean Your AC Condenser for Better AC: • Increasing AC Performa...
How To Bleed a Cooling System: • How To Bleed A Cooling...
Mini Cooper S (R56) Front End Removal: • Mini Cooper S (R56) Fr...
Mini Cooper Engine Removal (R56/N14): • Mini Cooper Engine Rem...
Introducing The Mini Series: • Introducing The Mini S...
2007-2013 Mini Cooper S (R56) Battery Replacement: • 2007-2013 Mini Cooper ...
R56 Mini Carpet and Interior Removal: • Carpet and Seat Remova...
Carpet and Seat Installation R56 Mini Cooper: • Carpet and Seat Instal...
Mini Cooper S (R56) Front End Removal: • Mini Cooper S (R56) Fr...
Mini Cooper Oil Leak Repairs (R56/N14): • Mini Cooper Oil Leak R...
Direct Injection Intake Valve Cleaning (R56/N14): • Direct Injection Intak...
Mini N14 Timing Chain Replacement: • Mini N14 Timing Chain ...
Mini Cooper Clutch Replacement: • How To Replace A Clutc...
**Answers to your automotive questions found here: www.ericthecarguy.com/faq
Social Network Links
Facebook: EricTheCarGu...
Twitter: / ericthecarguy
Google+: plus.google.com/1001951801966...
Instagram: / ericthecarguy
Wanna see more stuff like this from ETCG? Information on Premium Membership: www.ericthecarguy.com/premium...
Stay Dirty
ETCG
Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy®. 
Авто/Мото
This series hasn't turned out so mini
Indeed.
EricTheCarGuy where are turbos for a 1976 Chrysler cordoba ?
You make look so easy like every good mechanic, I’m over here busting ass and running around trying to get things done and just ask for help with the master mechanic. He comes over and just makes you look slow when he is on the phone on their Bluetooth and not physically moving as fast as you but it’s like freakin magic, they get so much shit done but calm cool and collective. I’m trying to get there. I’m in busy ass mode and probably doing more harm than good.
Just the stress of the customers car is leaving this evening and just trying to get things done and just in over your head and the more experienced mechanic makes everything look easy.
Great video Eric, your tenacity is to be commended! Have a great weekend friend!!
Your voice is so soothing to hear that it makes me want to listen even I'm not a car person!
I like that you make sure things are easily accessible for the next guy. "Next guy could be you", according to AVE, and I find that's half the time true. But the doing the job right and taking the time to make things reachable/workable for whoever's next really makes the inch go a mile.
out of all other utube channels i find yours the best you have better variety at engines and stuff you deserve more views to be honest you go all out for information ive done clutch jobs from your focus vid as guidance ive just taken a engine out of a Hyundai coupe v6 from your nissan vid as a project you have made me into the car guy i am today what triggerd it was how much i was paying for basic stuff for the car which was over priced and stupid i can do alot of things i fort i couldn't do i work in little garage and own alot of tools as you once said its an investment ive saved alot of people money from doing services at half the cost of most dealers thanks again !
what a puzzle putting that back together. great series
It’s like watching factory assembly. Nice work! Great camera angles.
Yet again, another awesome video. It is nice to see repair videos back on a Friday. And the European touch is nice aswell.
Keep up the good work, much appreciated!
Eric, you are so fortunate to have a well equipped shop to do what you love. I'm a retired Nissan/infiniti tech and became so burnt out on the hurry up, flat rate time race all of the time. No time to bask in the glory of a job well done; just move on to the waiter oil change or the next warranty job and get those hours up will ya?
I hope to find a well equipped place to enjoy working on cars again without the production push. Who else but a tech would watch fasteners being fastened and hose clamps positioned just so?
I freaking love this series. Keep em coming ETCG :D
Awesome work keep it up!!
FixItNick he bent rods
Just a few Tips for the next time when you work on a Mini engine or a PSA (Peugeot/Citroen)and you do the same job as you did on this:
1- The first start after a very long time,and the engine kinda dry,you should start it with no ignition coils fitted,and no fuel,just crank it so that the oil goes around the oil line and it's not dry anymore,or you will have problems with the timing chain jump a tooth or 2.
2-The Bleeding of the cooling system of these cars must be done when engine is cold,and turned off,the coolant reservoir is full,and you open the first bleeding point on the heater matrix hoses,make sure all air it out,and then move to the next bleeding point which is the Thermostat Housing bleeding screw,then top up the coolant to full mark,and start the engine,all well be good.
But overall you done a great work,keep it up
Eric you talked a few times about cleaning the condenser with "Sodium Chloride." What I think you meant was "Sodium Hydroxide." Sodium chloride is plain old table salt.... Which i don't think would do a very good job of cleaning a condenser.
Great video series Eric! Next project.....rebuild a 2000-2004 Northstar!!
Amazing work you put into this MINI series!
Thanks for calling out the fastener sizes in this one. Was careful with the oil pan gasket.
Eric you make me smile...hondabond. I’ll never forget when I first learned about hondabond
Simple trick for bleeding cooling system. If you have removed or replaced the thermostat drill a1/8” hole in the thermostat before installing. This will let air bleed out of the system eliminating air pockets in the system. I do this trick every time I replace a thermostat. This prevents engine hot spots while waiting for the thermostat to open.
James Howard Most thermostats have a jiggle pin that allows air to escape so drilling extra holes is not needed.
Ooouuufff bad luck forgetting the crank bolt Eric. Thanks for the honesty in sharing that as through the magic of video editing you could easily have 'massaged' the truth in RUclipsland for the 'perfect' ending etc. Still, an added bonus is extra videos on mechanictrickery for us to watch...BMW Mini...the car that just keeps on giving...
Thanks. I don't see much benefit in covering up my mistakes. Most of the time they become video opportunities.
That’s a bummer, now it’s the Saga of the Mini!
I loved the face you made when you started it the first time. Somehow you looked surprised it started 😂
Whenever you take something apart to that degree, you're never really sure how it will go back together. Also, this is the first engine I've put together without keyways in the crank and cam. Lesson learned on that one.
EricTheCarGuy completely agree.
I think I made the same face when I changed my first timing belt on my Civic. Especially after rotating the engine manually 3 or 6 times (can’t remember now how many times Honda says we have to rotate the crankshaft pulley) and the marks I made on the timing belt didn’t line up after rotating the crank pulley. I was very sceptical to start the engine. It started ok eventually and after a year I came across one of your videos where you explain that if you keep rotating the crank pulley, the initial marks will line up again. Greetings from uk.
One method I have used on a stubborn coolant system is run car till it fills the tank to the top then put the cap on so it puts a slight vacuum on it when it cools off. Repeat a few times.
Hondabond is so good that I applied it to my 90 EF oil pan in 1994 and let it set till last year. Sealed so good the oil pan isn't leaking a drop even without it being installed
Glad to hear there is a happy ending! Thanks for the video Eric
Well made vid Eric. Keep up the great work bud.
Hey Eric have a tip for you Airlift(my make of Chios) haves a perfect tool to fill coolant its puts a vacuum on the system and so its check for leaks and you save time. We use it on every coolant job ( water pumps , rads and more) tanks for a great RUclips channel , best regard from Norway
Yea, that's a great idea. Thanks.
Get a coolant vacuum tool. It's awsome. Thank you for your information on the subject.
Great job Eric!
Doing an awesome job Eric!
All good bro, im sure it was because you were putting lots of effort into making a video and explaining stuff, good job!
Hondabond is the best sealant ever I use it every time I split cases on motorcycle engines
Damn good job, and we all learn from small mistakes so we don’t repeat them, great vid.
There is a bleeder screw for the coolant system on top of the thermostat. Great video.
Can one imagine how much editing this took LOL. Keep up the good work!
If whomever named "Hondabond" did nothing else in their career at Honda, they earned their paycheck with that, alone.
Awesome video Eric
Awesome videos. Thanks for posting
Love these Mini videos man! These cars always terrified me. Not now! ;)
There is something oddly satisfying watching oil pour directly onto the timing chain and camshafts without a cover on.
Great job, Eric. As usual :)
The best way to bleed the cooling system out on these cars is to fill it slowly with the heat on, Max heat, low fan. You stated in the video that you didn't turn the heat on.
Good thing you got it all sorted
Eric give this man a shoutout, coverman66, he’s got great LS engine information and teaches a lot on engines and engine components. All in all a great guy.
It was about time to get into european cars, you going to expand a lot if you start a series with these, loads of people love mercs and bmw and some other stuff, not to mention they fall apart fast so great material. Great stuff Eric!
The N14 engine in this car runs at 110 degrees C most of the time. It might take longer for the thermostat to open due to that. It's an electronic thermostat and a failed coolant temp sensor is another possibility. Cheap and easy to fix.
Under heavier loads it reduces running temps to 83 degrees C (IIRC).
Sounds good - congrats
You could retitle ETCG1 to Hose Massaging. lol Dood, I so feel for you regarding the engine failure. Been there. You're a trooper. Another idea for channel title. Man of Steel.
I like how you went Edd China by wearing the orange gloves. Keep up the good work.
lol I was just about to comment the same thing!
Honda Bond! I love the stuff, use it all the time! Way less sensitive to dirty surfaces than most rtv products, any time im assembling an engine with sealant i use Honda Bond!
Woohoo!! Nicely done!
There's a really cool method to make bleeding easier but it's a two-man job. Forget about filling from the expansion tank... Just leave it without its cap and follow these steps: Engine off but put the heater on max, fan off. Remove the upper rad hose from the thermostat housing and do the same with one of the heater hoses, just leave the heater hose dangling. Then have someone plug both holes in the th. housing with his/her hands. Now, start filling the system from the disconnected upper rad hose. This will ensure that the whole rad-block-heater core circuit is free from air, as fluid will push air out from the heater hose. At some point only fluid will come out from the disconnected heater core hose. When that happens you reattach the heater core hose back in, and then (this is the tricky part) you must fill the upper rad hose to the brim and try to get it back into the housing without making a mess. After that's done, your circuit is going to be perhaps 95% full, only thing left is to fill the expansion tank. Put the cap back, let it idle to check for leaks and go for a drive, say 5 minutes. Stop somewhere and let the engine idle while keeping an eye on the temp gauge. While at it turn the heater fan on to see if warm air is coming out of the vents. Once it reaches normal service temp check that it stays in the same spot for 10 minutes and there you go.
If, in any case, this does not do the trick you stop the engine, let it cool down until dead stone cold and add coolant if needed. Remove the expansion tank cap and the small hose that goes into it. Place the small hose into a bottle and put your finger in the hole from which you removed the small hose. Now, blow through the expansion tank while keeping your finger in the small hole. Air and fluid will come out from the small hose into the bottle. The idea is to use the bottle to catch any fluid to be able to put it back in the expansion tank, a sort of artificial coolant cycle. Cycle about a liter of coolant in this fashion, never letting the expansion tank to run dry as it will push air into the system, keep it between min and max at all times. If you have more than one small hose going into the car, repeat the process for each small hose. Top off if needed, put all back together and go for a drive as said above. Hopefully these steps will help you with this annoying task, I always follow these and they yet have to fail me.
Aigor U A lot of work when a standard burp will work just fine. Fill the expansion tank, squeeze hoses until they're full of coolant, fill the tank halfway, elevate the front of the car so the radiator is the highest point of the system, heat on full blast, start the engine, and run it at 1500-2000 rpm until it gets up to operating temp. Easy. When the cooling fans turn on and the lower hose is warm, you know the thermostat has opened. When you have hot heat from the vents, you know the heater core is bled out. Squeeze the hoses a few more times and rev the engine from idle to 2k a few times, then put it back on level ground and top off the expansion tank to full hot. Take it for a toot, park it, let it cool, and then check the radiator and expansion tank to make sure they are both full. No need to pull hoses and make a mess trying to quickly put full hoses back on. No need to blow air into the expansion tank.
That is standard procedure and 9/10 times works fine, up until you find a car like the first gen Focus with the brazilian RoCam engine. A nightmarish cooling system with the expansion tank going directly to the lower part of the block, crisscrossing rad hoses and built-in restrictors in both coolant return hoses, so "burping" by traditional means only gets you a furious geiser because no matter how much you squeeze and rev, the air just doesn't want to go up. Hence the blow-through-expansion tank method that cycles coolant with the engine off through both hoses minimizing the chances of having an air pocket causing a headache. Cheers!
We run 0w30 in these engines. Peugeot. Changed it and it seems to help the oil related problems
I can verify most items assembled at the auto manufacturer I currently work at are assembled and torqued with a power tool that stops at a preprogrammed torque and angle setting on the tool only thing special is the tools ability to recorded that info in the MES system, other things are installed with regular power tools. (Like one or two rattta tatta’s which is lesser torque version of a Uga Uga with a Milwaukee 😂 ) really the only time you see an actual torque wrench is for critical QC checks , hand assembly of prototype items or to verify calibration of the tools on the line.
When I was still a technician I think the only time I actually used a torque wrench on something was for torquing lug nuts and like head bolts maybe a few other things everything else I used my precisely calibrated hands and fingers 🍺😂👍🏽
cool !! it's running ; that's the first fear of the mechanic
Great video
Great image resolution!
Nice conclusion - appreciated.............
Ziptie life! Eric
Eric what was that can you used to clean the transmission fluid that spilled over? Is it a refillable sprayer?
Brake cleaner. Not enough room in the description for a link but you can buy brake clean in bulk and use a refillable sprayer.
Bent valves = another vid = silver lining.
I feel so bad for him, but it's great for me because I want more of this series!
much as I do like watching you do this stuff it would not help my confidence to do something like that when I see you come on at the end and say I forgot to tighten something down and so had to strip it all down and do it again never mind keep up the good work.
Great POV mechanickin'
BMW cars can be bleaded by software or by pressing the gas pedal for 30sec while key on pos2. Does only work with electric water or additional water pumps.
The pump will turn on multiple times with multiple speeds. This helps bleeding the car.
This model uses a mechanical water pump. Thanks for the info though.
EricTheCarGuy Does the car have a secondary waterpump for the heating system? If yes it still works, if not your way is the best.
Eric, hoping you would do a video explaining the best steps to take when doing a major engine repair, such as a head gasket. Mainly, what to do with the hoses and wires, organization, tips from the years etc. Thanks!!
Major at home mechanic repair***
Hell yeah, Hondabond is great!
That Honda Bond is the best
Thanks for posting. Glad I watched this vid. Way too much stuff packed into that small engine compartment. Due to that I'll never own one of these things.
If you've never used it, there's a nifty AirLift Coolant System tool that makes filling coolant without air pockets a bit easier. At least I've had luck with it. Uses your compressor to pull a vacuum on the cooling system and then sucks the coolant into the vacuum.
VW also claims their transmissions should never be serviced. When the automatic transmission failed in my daughters Passat I called ZF for a rebuild kit and when I told the ZF tech about the VW claim he couldn't stop laughing. He then said all ZF transmissions supplied to VW should be serviced every 60-80k. Just another strategy of built-in obsolescence to get you to buy a new car!
Autos generally need servicing, since they generate a lot more internal heat that deteriorates the oil, and band/clutch material that will contaminate it. But it's not uncommon for a stick shift trans (like this car has) to never need the oil changed. On the other hand, it shouldn't hurt, either - other than the cost.
I agree, they never need servicing....until they fail.
Another good reason to get a stick shift, then - no need to have a dipstick, or check the level, as the oil can't burn off like in an auto. You can only run low if you have a leak - and that should be easy to see. :-D
Current Mazda Skyactiv gearboxes do not list a drain/refill interval in the owner's manual. However most people on the forums agree that it needs to be changed after about 70K miles or so, and you have to drain/refill about 3 times to get all the old fluid out, using as much as 9 to 12 quarts of Mazda fluid at $15-20 each. Our 2014 CX-5 2.5L Skyactiv has a dipstick, but it's really short and way down underneath the air box, held in by a bolt. So it's not meant to be checked on a regular basis, which is dumb to me.
VW Passat LOL
Never thought I'd see Eric do massages with a happy ending: @32:15 and @32:28, LOL
Good video
Great man nice 😊
Wish we could have seen you resetting the valves and the Pistons to get the timing right on the cams
Awesome thanks
Watching the coolant overflow from the expansion tank brought back some memories.
I was helping a friend with his Saab 9-5 replacing a leaking heater core diverter valve. When I added the coolant back into the car I just thought "fill the tank to the full mark and just run the car till the thermostat opens, it'll drain most of the tank and then I can just top it off" yeah I hadn't considered that the coolant would expand enough to overflow before the thermostat would open up, fortunately my drain pan was still under the car and caught the worst of it.
Now I just fill the tank until it's just above the min mark, much lower chance of mess, also not sure if this applies to the Mini but the Saab called for the heater to be on full heat and the blower fan to be on high to help bleed the system.
Alexander Klein That's the standard method. Full heat and fan on. Also, FWD vehicles with transverse mounted engines need to have the front of the vehicle lifted up at an angle so that the air can make it to the top tank of the radiator and into the expansion tank.
mannys9130 Raising the front of the car probably wouldn't help with a 9-5 as the expansion tank is mounted further back in the engine bay, a good tip for any cars with the expansion tank near the front though, one that I'll have to try and remember.
Alexander Klein Hmmm. Is there a burp line on the top tank of the radiator which goes back to the expansion tank? In that case raising the front would bleed the heater core and form an air pocket at the top of the rad, and then putting it level again would let that air bubble go up I the tank.
mannys9130 Yeah there's a thin coolant hose running from a fitting on the top of the radiator to expansion tank. It's worth noting I've never had trouble bleeding the cooling system on my 9-3 and not on my friends 9-5 (same engine, mostly the same cooling system), the system is pretty well set up to self bleed through normal driving use.
Probably the biggest issue I've had was during a recent radiator hose replacement, it was so cold in my garage that the car just couldn't get hot enough to open the thermostat by just running at idle, sorted that by running the car at 2000-2500 rpm to build the heat up, in summer time it's not an issue :D
Alexander Klein Well that's good to hear! Yeah I usually let the engine idle for a minute to get oiled up and give me time to squeeze the hoses a little bit. Then I run it at 2k rpm until the coolant starts to bubble (as the thermostat opens and frees the air) and the cooling fans kick on. One of my old diesel cars would never have warmed up in a cold winter at idle. Lol
Use a coolant vacuum filler Eric! Saves alot mess with coolant, and saves ALOT time ;)
I'd have been so mad to have to take the engine out AGAIN.
Eric, there is a valve with a flips head just passed the turbo on the right. Its to let all the air out in the system.
Eric, I have a love hate/hate relationship with Mini, they pay so well to fix on Flat Rate but damn they break a lot, I would rather work on a BMW or a VW but Mini means money😊I have done so many tstats on them for a CEL I think I could do it blind folded😂😂
Dont worry, if you dont have the black Plug with the green Ring at 8:55, afaik this has to to with US-Regulations - European Cars dont have that Plug installed. Either way, the red big Plug, that sometimes comes with the new Cover has to be removed.
Coolant bleeding - This is the same system as BMW. Manually turn on the water pump by turning ignition ON to ACC (do not start engine), set temperature control to full hot and blower fan speed to Low. Press accelerator pedal to floor and hold down for ten seconds.
Hey Eric
There is a coolant bleed screw on top of the thermostat housing which is seen by looking down from the top of the engine on the right hand side. Plastic looking screw plug. Between the fuel pump and the vacuum pump.
Cheers
Thanks, but the turbo coolant line is higher and easier to get to.
Eric tilt the front end of engine ro allow coolant to go through heater core as u bleed the system.
When I torqued the crank bolt on my Peugeot 207 with this engine I had to bust a nut to get the right torque and now every time I have to overtake a car I wait for the bolt to snap off.
Patricio Cordova because there is no keyway on the crankshaft. The sprockets are interferance fit.
Love how you address people that freak out lol "ERIC" blah blah
You know if you massage your coolant hose too much you're going to get overflow out of the reservoir 😂
This may be mentioned later, but that is not a “Check Engine” light…it is the limp mode light. Check Engine Light is on the speedometer panel.
Ah the cooper curse - welcome to the wonders of French engines
It's not a French engine. It Bmw designed loosely based around Peugeot crank and pistons to save development cost. The timing gear, plastic tensioner design- Vanos and cylinder head design is pure Bmw - and The reason why these engines are a total nightmare.
@@byronmills5952 Wow, 2 years old, the engine is the French PSA Prince engine, it's not Vanos, its Valvetronic but still as bad - Google - Prince engine Wiki
@@Mrflash222006 It's a joint effort in which all the points of failure on these units are Bmw design related. I've pulled enough of the horrid things apart as a Psa tech - and was privy to the development histoty of The unit prior to its launch for training purposes. The basis of the unit the Psa Tu5- is as tough as old boots. Psa cop a lot of flack for what is in essence flawed Bmw engineering.
Hondabond = Permatex Ultra Grey. 356,000 miles on my Integra GSR B18C1 engine and I've never used any sealant other than Permatex Ultra Grey.
Don’t feel too bad. We have a special oil in our shop for these new automatic transmissions on our trucks and it’s about 2600 dollars for a 55 gallon drum. And that’s our companies discount price....
So $12 a quart?
Again. Company gets a pretty big discount.
Still, even at a 50% discount $24 a quart for fancy new trans fluid isn't so bad at all.
Airlift needs to send this man a coolant vacuum filler. So much quicker and easier than manual fill and bleed
I'm sure i heard the words "Oh My God" at 4:38
Dam shame the crank spun, just what you didn't need :-(.
But you corrected the damage, and ready to boot out of the door lol.
Mistakes are learning opportunities. In my case, they are also video opportunities.
I wasn't unde3rstanding how the crackshaft could "spin" and wreck the vavles - every car I've every worked on had some kind of key to make sure that didn't happen. That is a scary car design especially since I own the same car. Good to know!! But sorry you had to go through that.
What's the next big project for ETCG? Cant wait for more!
Going to work on the Civic for a min then I'm going to start work on my dads truck. You can stay up on the latest with my monthly newsletters that come out on the last day of each month. www.ericthecarguy.com/blog
+EricTheCarGuy trucks are always cool, should be fun! Thanks Eric and have a great weekend. -Glen
The maxi! Short for maxima...turn about from a mini. 👍🏼
Scallywag I love my '98 4th gen Maxima I bought brand new. I have a few repair vids on it. Great car.
As the owner of 90 Chevy square body, I'm anxiously waiting for the "Dad's Truck" videos.
#erictheminiguy Always thought these cars were sorta neat, never wanted one and still don't but it's been an interesting series to follow, as usual.
Hey Eric
Hey.
If I bought this mini, would it come with a forever warranty? Years ago I sold a hoopty s10 blazer that I had been using to drive back and forth to work everyday 30 miles each way. An elder coworker bought it for his grandson for $500. Every time there was something wrong with it he'd want me to fix it. 6 months later it needed brakes, and he wanted me to replace them. I told him his forever warranty ran out long ago. But whatever parts it needs you buy them and I'll change them.
Man, this car is never ending. They shouldn't charge but about $8,000 for these new with all the money you have to pour into it down the road. :(
brotherbrian1 Awful cars.
Hey Eric, where did you get your rolling shop stool? It looks really nice and smooth.
hey awesome work and channel, and nice gloves, what kind of material are they? (the firsts, orange with dots)
It would be fun to take two late model Yamaha vmax engines, linked at the shaft and put into a small car, like a mini.
Wait, did you have to pull the engine again to fix the valves or just torque something down you forgot? Like this rebuild you did Eric!