Soldering Fume Extractor Fan Upgrade
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- Retrofitting a low noise Noctua PC fan into a Pace fume extractor.
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Probably you can put another fan after first.
Yeah, was thinking that. Improvement likely won't be great though with effectively short ducting, but should improve a bit which could make all the difference. I've done some graphs of that kind of thing here: solarsponge.com/article.htm
You need a significant duct length so that the turbulence from the first doesn't significantly reduce the effectiveness of the second. I suggest to allow 5 diameters at a minimum. 20 diameters to be sure that you have laminar flow restored.
The Noctua fans are acoustically quiet because of the turbulence.
@@EEVblog may improve substantially, but the second fan should be driven faster, or have a higher pitch (throwing a bit of axial flow turbine theory to the problem :) )
Stator vanes would also reduce the turbulence, but is a bit impractical here.
Looks like the old fan could be left in there, just in case you need a bit more power.
That Pace Fume Exhauster costs a couple hundred bucks. It's just a $20 fan inside a metal enclosure.
They are masters of selling crap at premium prices, have a look at their hotairs, or "dont use it too long or your hand will get burned" tweezers
That's why I built my own.
I've got about 30 of those 120x38 240v fans... from VFD repairs. All working and still good. Bearings are also replaceable and are the standard 3x8x4 Pc fan size. I've got 4 bolted together for a solder extractor. ~400cfm, F low noise 🤣
That whole solder extractor is a complete and utter ripoff.
To be fair, those 240v die-cast metal fans are not cheap from brand-names. I've seen them cost up to $200 before.
@@AmericanLocomotive1
That sounds like a ripoff too. You can get name brand diecast frame fans from RS reasonably cheap. Would also be cheaper for a factory buying in bulk...
uk.rs-online.com/mobile/p/axial-fans/5440706/
Noctua put out some decent ‘industrial’ fans as well. Designed for longevity, I.e keep all the dust and debris well out of the way of bearings.
Bung a variable resistor on it and you’re done.
I have a noctua cooler from like 08 and the fan is still good.
Noctua is fine, but not spectacular and definitely overhyped, there are better industrial fans out there
@@FooBar89 industrial fans, yes. I don't think the Noctua industrial are very outstanding. However, in the PC fan segment they do have some of the best fans out there. I have never seen a fan move that much air so quietly as the S12 A for example. They are very specialized though because they do not produce a lot of static pressure, so you cannot use them on radiators, filters or tight grills.
They are very durable, too and don't start rattling or squeaking after a year or two like a lot of other fans that seem fine at first.
@@FooBar89 I do like noctua fans but have to agree, there are some amazing industrial fans.
I managed to get 30 of these new/old stock for £40 from ebay.
uk.rs-online.com/mobile/p/axial-fans/7511532/
They are very well made; balanced rotors, ball bearing, brass bearing housing, spin down to 250-300rpm at around 3v too.
You need an IoT fan so you can have the convenience of creating an account, confirming your email, logging in, taking part in a quick survey, looking over partner offers, and adjusting your fan speed on the fly.
Why does the app need permissions to access my contacts and photos?
It also needs to measure how much fumes have gone through so it will order replacement solder reels? 🤣
Order now, and sign up for the service for free! In six months, being able to turn your fan on will require a paid membership.
Don´t forget, it has to calculate how much longer you will live because of the fumes it sucked up.
Those fans are designed for very low noise, they offer higher cfm 2200 rpm fans aswell. And even those are really damn silent!
Noctua is an Austrian company BTW, makes me proud every time :D
It is only quiet if there is no filter or grill making the noise.
s baxter I know, same happens if you put them onto a radiator. They get louder, but not much.
@@DrakkarCalethiel depends on the type of blades of the exact model though. Some models are more suited for pull-operation on radiators or filters, some are less. A very good example is the otherwise excellent Noiseblocker eloop which gets horribly loud in pull-operation on filters or radiators.
There are so many parameters to a fan other than rpm and cubic meters per hour, most of the time you'll have to buy at least two or three until you get the perfect model for a certain application.
Heinrich Müller Yeah, noise depends heavily on the blade geometry in certain applications. The EK Vardar I use are a bit more noisy in push than pull. But they are built for static pressure.
It's fairly obstructed with that thick filter and vent.
Try some high static pressure fans, They're designed with blades intended to deal with the higher pressures required when using them with radiators when water-cooling, a similar obstructed airflow use.
Look at the difference in blades, you'll see a similar design shared between your original mains powered fan blades and the high static pressure fan blades. Larger blades, push harder.
they are high static pressure fans 7:57
@@ikbendusan good spot. Interesting... They look really weedy fan blades though! Really odd design guess it must be the noise optimisation.
@@ikbendusan They're high pressure for a case fan but look at the previous fan again, similar types of fans can have a static pressure as high 50-100mmH2O for example here's a delta sever fan I happen to own: PFC0812DE-SP04
It's an order of magnitude stronger and louder, so I have no clue what the optimum target would be but I would probably aim for at least 10mmH20, because I suspect that one or two is far too low for this and is hampering it's performance.
@@lmaoroflcopter Console, No! You got marketeered! Engineering is done with numbers, not marketing wankery like "high" static pressure. Digikey has fans with static pressures dozens of times higher than the Noctua fan.
@@TheHuesSciTech I attributed large blades to static pressure fans because that's what I'm familiar with as being a clear design difference between my static pressure and high airflow fans. That's all.
As for "real engineering being done with numbers" yes, yes it is. What was your point? That I recommend he buy some high static pressure fans without specifying a mmH2O value? I'll leave that to him and his decision making process.
I replaced the fan in my NAS box with a Noctua fan. It made a world of difference.
Most bang for the buck: Whack together a box stuffed with an old PC power supply (w/ 12v at 10 amps) and a 3-speed centrifugal 12v blower fan you can buy from an Auto-Wrecker @ $20. Attach a few meters of dryer vent hose and stuff some place out of sight (LV turn on cable can run inside the hose if you wish).
I bought a cheap ducted RC jet fan for this purpose. (90mm 12 blade, $70AUD) Noisy as hell at full tilt, but completely recycled all of the air in the room in approximately 15 seconds. At much lower speeds it incredibly effective, can hardly hear it and doesn't require the 25 odd amps it uses at full noise. Lately I've been using it to exhaust while stick welding.
Please get a new Carbon filter!
They are only good for about a year, no matter how much you use them.
The active carbon will then have adsorbed everything it can and be useless.
Jup. After a while they're just moving the air around.
and probably help mixing fumes with air
Yes indeedy. That carbon filter will be as much use as a Marc vincent hi-fi.
Looking at only the CFM of the fan is as bad as only looking at the open circuit voltage of a battery. Fans have a pressure/CFM curve just like batteries have a V/I curve; when you introduce a filter like the one in this extractor that becomes really important as some fans (ones with a high static pressure) are almost unaffected, while other weaker fans (PC case fans with a low static pressure) can be rendered useless.
they are high static pressure fans 7:57
@@ikbendusan Engineering is done with numbers, not marketing wankery like "high" static pressure. Digikey has fans with static pressures dozens of times higher than the Noctua fan.
@@TheHuesSciTech okay sure but it's a high static pressure *computer* fan. bet your ass those digikey fans also make much more noise
@@ikbendusan I've probably done a poor job of making my point, but my point is this: focusing entirely on the CFM of the fan and completely ignoring its static pressure and the resistance of the filter material, is poor practice. Dave likes using electrical engineering analogies for heatsinking solutions, I can't help but think that the complete lack of any such analogy here is due to him not having considered it. Or maybe it'll be coming in a follow-up video, I dunno. In any case, telling *me* that this fan has a "high" static pressure is completely pointless.
@@TheHuesSciTech i meant that it was a "high" static pressure fan in the computer fan reference frame. i understand where you're coming from
I did a project video using a 3D printed box to mount filters, and a household extractor fan with a duct to get the fumes well away and well filtered it works pretty well.
I made something similar a few years ago. It used a large 12 volt computer fan, powered by a AC to DC switch mode converter.
The fan was mounted on a base made from a small rectangle of uPVC roofing soffit plastic, using the small plastic screw blocks that are more traditional used to hold cheap chip board furniture together. I fitted four stick on rubber feet to the plastic base to give it stability, slip resistance and to increase its hight.
The filter was made from a cut section of the filter material used in cooker hoods. This is made of a white fibre backed with carbon foam sponge, similar to that shown in the video.
The filter material was held in place using two fan finger guards mounted on the front, with one on the back for safety.
By holding the first two guards in place with long bolts and nuts, it was possible to fit the third guard to the front to hold the filter in place using knurled nuts that can be loosened with the fingers. This allows the filter to be replaced with out dismantling the whole unit. The nuts holding the first inner front and back guards in place provided the spacers to stop the filter material being over compressed. The inner of the two front finger guards, provided the surface on which to mount the filter material, while keeping it well away from the fan blades.
The completed assembly is both quiet and efficient. Extracting solder fumes from almost a foot away. Its efficacy is apparent from the obvious brown residue that collects on the filter after prolonged uses. The filter material itself is sufficiently strong to allow it to be rinsed clean under running water, though replacement is not a problem as a single cooker hood filter, which is extremely cheap to buy, can be cut up to provide a reasonable number of replacements for the solder fume extraction fan.
The whole assembly is relatively cheap to build and occupies very little of the bench space, being little more that a fans width, with the base being just sufficiently wider to provide stability. In my case, I mounted a power jack socket behind the fan, so that the power supply could be unplugged from the fan. This also allowed a standard power supply to be used without any modification.
The construction has also found a more traditional uses as an external cooling fan for telecoms and IT equipment that does not contain its own fan. In my case, an ADSL modem, a ethernet router and a CCTV video recorder.
I published details of the design along with photographs on the now closed Maplin web forum. I do not know if any of the forums content is preserved on the web.
i mounted two 120mm PC fans instead of bulb head on Ikea Tertial desk lamp with one layer of charcoal filter. It does not take any space on desk and you can position fans as you like and it is completely silent. Working distance is around 20-25cm from soldering iron.
The most that filter does is restrict airflow and prevent any objects from getting sucked into the fan, for filtering the smoke it's useless, it sucks the smoke away from you and into the room. I'd stick a long kitchen hood hose on a high flow fan and stick the fan inside a box under the desk on shock mounts to prevent vibration noise coupling.
There was room inside for a $5 AC dimmer.. at half speed, I reckon it would still be better than a PC fan.
Fans usually have an induction motor so you can't change speed via this method
@@KACPER050599 Fan speed controllers are about $10-15 or less, they would work well with this fan.
@@KACPER050599 True, but turn down the voltage enough and you'll find a range on the pot where it skips sync with the line based on air loading etc.. It's not damaging.
.. more correctly, turn down the pot adjusting phase angle of Triac conduction, at some point it will reduce average voltage (fan core may buzz a bit at some rpm's) WMMV of course.
@@CliveChamberlain946 The fact that this is a metal fan alone makes it inferior to a computer fan. Ideally the entire device should be made of plastics that dampen the vibration, even the steel enclosure.
I built my own out of a plywood box. It mounts outside. Used a 3" vacuum hose to feed it to my desk. It will suck pencils off the desk at full speed.
I built my first fume extractor a few weeks ago the same way: a spare PC fan, connected with a simple soldered-on pin header. (But I didn't forget to put the heat-shrink tubing on ;) )
Wow, Dave has a Keysight mug! I can't even afford one of their oscilloscopes ...
I like your overhaul on the fume extractor and wish you a great weekend! 👍
Not so much the airflow that you need, it's static pressure as well, since it has to pull air through a filter! ...and I found that it helps a bit to put a 2-3cm spacer between the fan and the filter. I use the frame of an old fan as spacer...
I've had two of those Noctua fans running back to back through the huge Noctua heatsink they came with on my PC's CPU for the past ten years - can't hear them even now. Quietest most effective cooling tower arrangement I've ever had. You could put two fans inside your enclosure for twice the airflow and you won't hear them at all. Put a switch between them and you'll have low and high speeds, too. Then add your battery...
The quality PC fans such as this one come in two flavors - high impedance or low impedance (there are also hybrid solutions). [Edit: We're talking airflow impedance, not electronic.] In a PC, the former is normally a heatsink fan, the latter is a case fan. As clearly stated in the description for this one, it is intended to be employed in a high impedance application. A fan intended for low impedance will probably move more air in a low impedance application like fume extractor.
"Low impedance" would have to do with the effective ducting length. I didn't look at the datasheet until I edited the video, just though I'd suck it and see (pun intended).
It's a fan so obviously it moves some air, but one would think that using the intended part for the application should produce a better result. Otherwise, why would they make them in two flavors? Would be interesting to see if there is a performance difference in practice.
@@tangerinq Don´t underestimate the flow restriction of one of those little filters. A high impedance model is probably the right choice for this.
You should really look into the NF-A12x25, a very high end slient fan from Noctua, that is specially designed to have enough pressure to drive lots of airflow though restrictions like filters and dense fins. They are pricey, but insanely good.
Still far apart from the original extractor fan. It takes *a lot* of power to suck enough air through that filter in order to get all the fumes away from 20-30 cm. I'm using a Sunon 12 V fan with roughly 2500 rpm without a filter, and even that is hardly strong enough for more than 15 cm. There's a reason why these professional fume extractors are so loud, they need to be really powerful.
Love the smell of fumes in the morning!
You obviously never used solder with no-clean flux.
Okurka And you probably never saw Apocalypse Now ;)
So @eevblog in college they taught us the simple ac mains->capacitor->bridge rectifier circuit. You in the past have spoken about safe and reliable mains circuits. Could you take a moment to talk about a simple & quick long term 12v solution that could work in this fan application. Maybe some daveCAD too
Jonathan Wilhelm Order is Mains->transformer->fuse->Rectifier->Capacitor for the simple type, change transformer or transformer wiring (multitap) to change voltage. Big fail getting the order wrong. Fuse before transformer if it is the "short proof" type that drops output voltage on overload. Don't use an "electronic transformer", it's marketing wank for an unspecified power supply for lamps.
@@johnfrancisdoe1563 thank you for the correction. Been trying to find more info on the subject. What are other safe, simple, and reliable circuits available for the mains ac to DC
You should replace the carbon filter every so often as it loses it effectiveness. Apparently there are ways to clean them but I don't think that is a great idea. Some people buy activated carbon bulk, rise and put in bags (which they sew in a few pockets so the carbon doesn't lump at the bottom.
You may as well just use a desk fan as the carbon filter in your extractor is stuffed and not filtering out the toxins . i use a bathroom ventilation fan that sucks the air out through an open window which i find works well for soldering and 3D printing.
You could also 3d print an adaptor for a semi-rigid plastic tube the can be move above on what you're soldering.
You need suction... That's a combination of airflow and pressure... Pressure usually expressed in mm of H2O .. but properly; Pascals. Pressure is that which it will produce with no airflow and the rated airflow is at no pressure. Draw a straight line between those points on a chart and you have an approximate characteristic for that fan ... absent an official one.
When drawing through the filter and blowing out the case, then reducing unnecessary airflow resistance is the first goal. Those slits in the case produce significant resistance compared to the wire "finger guard" style. If there's still not enough suction, then select a fan that's rated higher. Having a fan operating has the advantage of you being able to measure the actual resistance to airflow using a simple manometer... clear tube in a U shape with some water in it. You can the use the existing fan's flow characteristic to select the new fan.
Bernd Felsche And getting enough airflow is why he should not put a battery or other obstruction inside the box! The carbon filter is not optional, as it's the only thing removing the fumes from the air returned to the room. The depth of the box and the overhang reduce the percentage of the exhaust going back in, like an air "short circuit".
Wow Dave actually fixed something. Well sort of he modified something. LOL Thanks Dave Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Blowing air across the board may result in cold solder joints.
It's okay as long as the airflow is above the board and joints only.
Normal 40w 3 speed desk fan is quieter, sit one about 2m away from the work area set static to face the work area on setting 1... should blow the solder smoke towards the window.
My kitchen extractor is noisy but don't use it when there's 2 or 3 pots boiling away on the hob and the kitchen is like a sauna with steam down to the knees.
I was wondering what the performance would be like with a plain PC Fan, but that isn't a plain PC fan. It's a pressure optimized fan for water cooling radiators so it shouldn't have TOO hard a time with pushing/pulling air through that filter and still having enough power to suck enough air through it to clear the smoke. And after watching more of the video, its clear it wasn't terribly great after all.
Rosin fumes can actually be more dangerous in unleaded solder. Unleaded solder is a bit more stubborn than the good old leaded solder, so the flux is often a bit more aggressively activated and/or it may contain a bit more flux.
There are certainly examples where that's not the case, but the unleaded solder fumes are certainly never *less* aggressive. You certainly work at higher temperatures with unleaded solder, that might add to more aggressive fumes, too.
7:27 You can't blow air over it because it will cool down the solder and it will solidify way too quickly.
And you should put the fan on the other side of the filter. The fan can't suck more air than there is air going through the filter, but you can always blow more through it.
I bought one for my father because he paints steel very often and it is very good. It smells a lot less. I change the carbon filter every month
2x2 120mm or 3x3 80mm fans and then a long tapered duct into an aluminium flexible/rigide hose that you can position anywhere over/at your work where you need it. Put the fan part behind/under the desk and its noise isn't anymore than a PC.
Most computer cooling fans will run at up to 18-20V without getting even warm to the touch. Being that it's a "quiet design" you might be able to increase the speed and it still be quiet while almost doubling the flow.
I made fume sucker of old 220V mainframe fan, implanted in plywood window vent plate with aluminium convoluted tube. Worked great, so as made great noise. Now gonna craft thing like Dave's of 12cm PC fan, coal filter and.... don't know what to use as frame.
Last Action Hero movie reference? Rubber baby buggy bumpers. Or did it lift an Aussie phrase?
like a pc case use a push pull system. just about to make myself a fume extractor for soldering tomorrow. plan on a push pull fan system variable speed control and a on off switch
Noctua fans are great! It looks like you need to replace the carbon filter though. Is it really old? Looks pretty crusty, not sure it’s actually doing much 🙂
All the carbon filters I have are slightly flexible, not brittle
Yeah, I have a lot of new old stock, I think they are all pretty crusty
EEVblog2 I’m sure you could buy some new carbon filter material and cut it to shape
Someone should do a test how much stuff those thin carbon filters actually filter out. I am suspecting they do not work at all for solder fumes and the whole setup just disperses the smoke.
I already did with a particle detector. It does clean it up significantly.
Martin Rabson Carbon filters are all about chemistry, not particles. The "activated carbon" reacts with many, but not all, toxic substances to chemically trap them. If the problem was particles a cotton or microfiber filter would be the thing.
Dave. Just put a dimmer. I have one very strong fan from a HP server(2,5A, 12v, 30W), the same size as yours and I made a simple voltage controller with an 2n3055. You can lower the voltageand the performance will be better then this new you are using. I suggest to by a stock AC-dimmer, just return the ac fan and put the dimmer. Will be perfect.
I think some companies make fans in certain pieces of equipment louder so you'll think they are powerful.
I noticed it with bathroom fans. An exhaust fan for residential use is really loud. But a commercial bathroom fan of the same size moves about the same air, but is =much= quieter. I replaced mine with a low noise fan, and the only difference between the old and new fan was the exact shape of the squirrel cage blades. Same motor, same case, same size of everything.
Same with hot air guns. A cheap $20 loud hot air gun vs a $120 commercial heat gun. You need earplugs for the $20 model, but can barely tell the $120 heat gun is turned on. Yet the whole thing is the same size.
Shop vacs - surely you've noticed that cheap models are VERY loud, but larger more high powered are not as loud. If you buy a shop vac aimed at the commercial market, they are even quieter.
Table saws and other power tools. Same thing.
And those useless $20 solder fume fans... what a joke. You have to be soldering right on the filter for it to suck up the smoke, but they are VERY loud.
Vacuum cleaners - not so much any more, but home vacuum cleaners were getting very loud. Yet when you see someone vacuuming in a hotel or restaurant, they are using a no-nonsense commercial model that you can barely hear.
It's a matter of price, too. I've encountered Sunon fans in devices that sounded like they were running a diesel engine even at low speeds. Replaced them with a Noiseblocker eloop that has even more max CFM than the Sunon and they are *way* quieter at any speed.
The Sunon is like 10 bucks retail, the Noiseblocker about double. They do the absolute same work, you pay the extra price for a quiet motor and bearing.
I always use a fairly high-powered (~2500rpm) 12 cm pc-fan (12 V) without any filtration. In my opinion, for my kind of hobby use, it should be enough to get the fumes out of my face. I also open a window and get some fresh air in.
Now if I were soldering many hours per day on a very regular basis, then I'd consider gettting or building something with a filter.
The P12 is static pressure rated for higher flow in restricted cases (like on radiators). Your filter isn't very restrictive so you could probably get away with a noctua a12...smaller fanblades and higher rpm (at the same low noise) gives higher flow.
You can use the rubber from old optical drive stabilizers to stabilize the vibration, they should work amazing for this stuff.
you might get an improvement if you fence the workpiece in on one or both sides so the fan's sucking in less air from round the sides and more from over the PCB.
Put the frame of the old fan in front of the first one, so the blades don't move close to the grille, it'll cut down on turbulance. Also, noctua has an industrial lineup that would be absolutely damn perfect for this application
I suspect most of the noise is generated by the swirl imparted by the fan to the air impinging on the linear slats. This is one of the noise generation systems in PC CPU heatsinks and PSUs.
To hugely mitigate the noise, mount the fan and filter remotely (perhaps under the bench) via a flexible HVAC duct pipe to your benchtop
I didn't know that Noctua is an Austrian Product, nice, greetings from "not Australia" ;)
The NF P12 is not an idel choice for this, because it is designed for high static presure instead of high CFM (it is designed for big CPU coolers and radiators)
Put a stator in front of the Fan. It'll increase the air flow quite a bit. 3D-Printer can print one in about 12 to 14 hours.
Hello,
I think you should suspend the suction rather than adding a fan that will disperse the smoke.
Activated charcoal filters pass the majority of solder flux fumes., the particles are too small. I remember reading a study that measured the particle sizes of solder flux fumes and from what I recall a HEPA filter is needed. Of course I can't find it now
But solder resin smells goood... Seriously though, would fitting a second 12v quiet fan behind the first improve things? Looks as if there's room.
would have to be a counter rotating one to do a diffrence
Dave I'm your biggest fan ! It's pronounced "Noc-shoe waaa "
If you can find one that spins the other way, you could stack 3 of them(2 Noctua). Don't know what that 'compressor stage' would do to the acoustics tho'... just a thought : ))
P12 are also lower airflow fans. Their industrial ones are ~triple of that. Should handle fume better at a distance.
I have a Hakko FA-400 soldering exhaust fan thing. I want to put a Noctua quiet fan in there, but the stock fan runs on 110V AC power. All the Noctua fans I've seen are 5V, 12V, to 24V, and terminate with either Noctua "3-pin" or PWM terminals. The stock fan in this Hakko thing just has one wire to the external on/off switch, another wire to the attached AC wall plug, and a ground wire (to the ground in the AC plug). Any idea how to make this work?
In my first job we had those tinfoil foldable hoses on every table and all connected via sewer pipes to 20W fan on opposite side of room. It worked quite well to be honest, but only if two people used it, with more it started to be too weak. But you could position it anywhere you wanted :)
Put something under the extractor to raise it a bit higher above the board.
You can try fixing the fan either with acetone mixed with abs (abs juice) or with super glue and baking soda.
Your main problem will be aligning it corectly.
The noctua NF P12 is meant for a higher static pressure the NF F12 is meant for air flow.
Couple LEDs under the hood might be nice.
Dave, look into the 3000rpm ippc noctuas. You can even get them in IP67 rated. they will have MUCH better airflow and static pressure, which is really what you're missing here pulling through a filter.
Looks linke the mains wire goes on the ring contact of the fuse holder and not the base contact as it should be. Or maybe it does and only looks wierd...
How is it actually powered now?
12 volt lab bench PSU I think
Couldn’t you Of rubber mounted the other one and buy a dimmer switch in there used for mains lighting to adjust the speed of the fan?
Couldn't Of?
@@Okurka. Yes, offen't you heard have it?
at school we had a suction system on the soldering iron itself
RUclipsr barevids has a setup like that. He has a small hose running right up to the tip. I think stainless steel tubing like automotive brake lines would be great for that.
@LabCat this was not complicated stuff. Small troughhole components (tops 10mm tall). worked for us, when it was in place and nobody had riped it out
So your idea of an upgrade is to end up with TWO units doing a fraction of the work of the original unit?
F A I L !
...at a fraction of the loudness!
Have another fan on the other side to blow?
Would raising the fume extractor 10cm or so help?
Why even bother modding this crap PACE crude metal contraption? Multiple fat grills obstructing airflow suggest it was modeled somewhere in the seventies with "I have a metal press" as the only "design" criteria.
rasz The grill size also serves to keep fingers etc. out of harms way. Much sturdier than a flimsy grill designed with "max airflow" as only criteria. The overhang and box length limit the reflow from output to input, though not as much as an outside 5" pipe would.
8:05 little CRT in the background, is that a new project?
There are industrial Noctua fans that aren't as silent, but have a much greater CFM through higher RPM
In the end, physics is still physics, even Noctua cannot change that! ;)
The Noctua industrial are nothing to write home about in my opinion. Relatively loud, they won't even start up until you give them 8 V and they will stop running when you turn them down to only 6 V (my own experience with a 12 cm Noctua industrial)
They are more like any other industrial fan: rugged, 24/7, made to run at 12 V. Not very good for silent cooling trickery at all, more useful for a server room.
You think that is loud? Should hear mine.
run a flexible pipe out the window, no filter. less noise, less fumes. (make a hole to outside if window does not open)
Some fans are optimized for high airflow and some are optmized for high static pressure, if this one is for airflow, the filter os probably choking the fan airflow.
Looks like a Storm Trooper helmet.
Is this enough for occasional soldering?
Woah a Fan from Austria in Australia;-)
I built one using some laser cut plywood, a 220v fan and some filter wool.....a million times better than that overpriced horror. Also it looks fantastic.
You should do a giveaway on a soldering fume extractor? I could use one of these. Btw that taylor fan looks like a 38mm fan? you should replace it with a gentle typhoon fan
Parallel up a bunch of Noctua fans......I'm sure it will still be quiet enough.
noctua fan... I commented that was a good fan to get in your live stream... looks like you had the same idea
So, it's not really an upgrade then?
Changing the voltage with a PWM should be the same as a PWM control, just with more power to deal with.
That thing is so old the telephone number is missing a digit, probably from the 80's.
Hi Dave why not put two of them in the cabinet for better airflow
1.6 amp fan? Perhaps comparable to a Delta server fan? I Use a 1.6 amp as an exhaust for my PC, runs from 2,600 RPM to 4,000 RPM it's crazy
hmm.. am i crazy for not trusting this type of fume extractor? with a rather simple filter that isn't that dense, compared to say.. paint masks. I instead tried to build something that would exhaust the fumes outside. Just a thought, no science proof to back it up.
I'd look at adding an LED strip to the inside of the hood, can't have too much light when soldering
Noctua comes with silicon pads... Have you lost them?
I like the video but not the mod, it works but it could certainly be improved lol!
Yes, just thought I'd try this fan I had lying around.
It's pretty expensive - just a box and a 220v fan.. Geez these professional accessories are ridiculous sometimes
Yep, paying for the brand name.
$50 for the parts and $450 for the logo.
Martin Rabson Except in some areas where "pro" has been devalued to nothing. Then the add zeroes tactic has moved to other words previously indicating quality.
How do you not have a Hakko FA-430? I have one and I’m just an average Joe.
👍👍👍
Sunon counterpart datasheet: www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/sunon-fans/DP201A-2123HBT.GN/259-1434-ND/1249307