Hi Emil. Thanks for this excellent video on panoramas! As a landscape, product and wildlife photographer, I often shoot panoramas, pretty much exaxtly as you describe...single row, in my case, using a Leofoto LS-365C tripod with a Leofoto LH-40 ball head, and a RRS Nodal Rail. Using a Nikon Z8 with mostly the NIkkor S 14-30 f/4 S lens, I often find that mounting the camera vertically on the rail gives me more detail in the foreground. I do use a Sunwayfoto pano head when I want more precision in the overlapped images (25 or 35 degrees). Thanks again!
And cost! I had an old one (28mm PC) and loved using it, but it didn’t keep up resolution wise with the newer 45mp sensors and also produced a noticeable vignette when stitched. The Canon 24mm is probably one of the best lenses out there though…but at a cost and weight.
I have a similar setup - got a leveling base for my MR Q as an option for panos. But since I don't do panoramas with problematic foregrounds, I usually don't bring the rail. About the 1/3 overlap - looks like you used a lot more in your example here though ;-) I usually use about 50% to be on the safe side.
😂 I don’t always practice what I preach I suppose. Yes, technically you don’t need a full third if shot properly, but I do tend to err on the side of caution.
I have been shooting panos for decades now, but left it for the past few years to travel and do wildlife photography. I have been toying around with my pano gear today and trying to figure out a puzzle. I have a D850 with a Nodal Ninja 5 and also 6. I attached a 14-24.. F2.8 to check the settings for the Nodal point were still correct at 14 and 24. What my issue is, is that when set to dead centre with a reference 1 meter away and the second 20 meters away, turning to the right, both references are rock steady and not moving, returning to the center again and moving to the left, the reference 20 meters away shifts to the right, but this only is happening on one side of the rotation. Any one got any clues please? Never experienced this before.
That’s a bit odd. There must be a misalignment somewhere, but for the life me I’m not sure where as it’s odd that you’ll get alignment on the one side, but not the other. One ‘horror’ scenario is that the lens has misaligned elements (unlikely, but it’s easy to tell… do you get a flat field of focus at infinity? Or is it in focus on one side and not perfectly on focus on the other?)
@@emilvonmaltitz thanks for the response. Off the panohead the lens is excellent. No issues at all with focusing or alignment. I will keep looking into it.
I always wanted a Linhof or Horseman 😂 almost had that feel with a Linhof Technika but the processing costs eventually turned it into a nice display item 😒
This is advice I can use. Pure gold! 🙂👍 Thanks!
Thanks Harald! Glad you found it useful
Hi Emil. Thanks for this excellent video on panoramas! As a landscape, product and wildlife photographer, I often shoot panoramas, pretty much exaxtly as you describe...single row, in my case, using a Leofoto LS-365C tripod with a Leofoto LH-40 ball head, and a RRS Nodal Rail. Using a Nikon Z8 with mostly the NIkkor S 14-30 f/4 S lens, I often find that mounting the camera vertically on the rail gives me more detail in the foreground. I do use a Sunwayfoto pano head when I want more precision in the overlapped images (25 or 35 degrees). Thanks again!
That a really nice setup you’re using Steve. Thanks for watching and and thanks for the feedback!
@@emilvonmaltitz Thank you, sir!
Just starting to shoot wide and small. Excellent video. Thanks. 🙏 🇮🇪
It’s a pleasure Kevin. Thanks for watching!
Another option is a tilt shift lens though that may add additional bulk to your kit.
And cost! I had an old one (28mm PC) and loved using it, but it didn’t keep up resolution wise with the newer 45mp sensors and also produced a noticeable vignette when stitched. The Canon 24mm is probably one of the best lenses out there though…but at a cost and weight.
I have a similar setup - got a leveling base for my MR Q as an option for panos. But since I don't do panoramas with problematic foregrounds, I usually don't bring the rail.
About the 1/3 overlap - looks like you used a lot more in your example here though ;-) I usually use about 50% to be on the safe side.
😂 I don’t always practice what I preach I suppose. Yes, technically you don’t need a full third if shot properly, but I do tend to err on the side of caution.
@@emilvonmaltitz Same here. I usually take more photos than I need in the final edit if I have time.
I have been shooting panos for decades now, but left it for the past few years to travel and do wildlife photography. I have been toying around with my pano gear today and trying to figure out a puzzle. I have a D850 with a Nodal Ninja 5 and also 6. I attached a 14-24.. F2.8 to check the settings for the Nodal point were still correct at 14 and 24. What my issue is, is that when set to dead centre with a reference 1 meter away and the second 20 meters away, turning to the right, both references are rock steady and not moving, returning to the center again and moving to the left, the reference 20 meters away shifts to the right, but this only is happening on one side of the rotation. Any one got any clues please? Never experienced this before.
That’s a bit odd. There must be a misalignment somewhere, but for the life me I’m not sure where as it’s odd that you’ll get alignment on the one side, but not the other. One ‘horror’ scenario is that the lens has misaligned elements (unlikely, but it’s easy to tell… do you get a flat field of focus at infinity? Or is it in focus on one side and not perfectly on focus on the other?)
@@emilvonmaltitz thanks for the response.
Off the panohead the lens is excellent. No issues at all with focusing or alignment. I will keep looking into it.
Just buy a 617 haha
I always wanted a Linhof or Horseman 😂 almost had that feel with a Linhof Technika but the processing costs eventually turned it into a nice display item 😒