RD Tech DPS5020: Assembly Tips
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 10 июл 2024
- Upshot: Don't bother soldering. Crimps or GTFO.
Topic Index:
00:00 - intro
01:10 - wire routing & they're doing it wrong
06:12 - doing it right
08:20 - the provided crimps are awful too
09:24 - USB vs bluetooth, closing
This item on AliExpress, from their official store, not sponsored in any way:
www.aliexpress.com/item/32821...
Demonstration of using this with the modbus protocol control:
• RD Tech DPS5020: Modbu...
EEVBlog videos:
• EEVblog #1035 - Flamin...
• EEVblog #1036 - PSU Fi...
Donations help me make more cool shit:
paypal.me/swolebroshopworks 
Наука
Hi, thanks for your video. I watched your video before attempting to assemble the unit I just purchased. I attempted the manufacturers instructions and it went together quite easily. I had a beefy tip with the temperature set up at 290degC. I assembled the rear pcb first, then when cooled down I bent over the wires and attached to the switch with no issues. Also the terminal supplied soldered easily onto the wire supplied very easily. Maybe its the good solder or beefy hot iron I used. Went together easy. I have no affiliation with RD. I have used the RD6006 and also recently purchased another RD6006P and they assemble very easy as no soldering or wire cutting is required as everything is pre-terminated. Sorry my experience does not agree with your observations, maybe iron size or temperature or solder type / flux related. Also dont bend hot wires, let them cool down first. During the assembly everything was a breeze for me.
Oh, I'm totally open to the possibility that I'm bad at soldering. Hahah. I work in software, not hardware, so I generally prefer my electronics come preassembled!
I'm glad that you were able to put it together easily. This is just another option for amateurs such as myself.
Hi - still building the 5020. Thanks for the warning! I fear that as a follow software guy, I might have made a mess of it without the warning. But I am using a different stratagem to mitigate the difficulty. I'm soldering that small power distribution board first. I'm starting with the "key" (for the switch) ... the small pads / holes. BUT: I'm using some high quality silicone / lots-of-strands (very flexible) 12 AWG wire. Oh - and a 30W soldering iron + copper thingy etc. Anywayyyyy ... my secret source is to take some header ... err ... 2mm pitch I guess - I forget ... maybe 0.1" ... whatever ... cut off 3 pins worth of it. The I push out the centre pin (discard). With the remaining 2x pins stuck in it's trimmed plastic retaining thingy, I push the pins into the PCB holes from the underside of the board. I push the pins so they're flush on the underside with the plastic retainer thingy. I use some ... blu-tack we have in the UK. Tack. Whatever. To keep it in place and to stick on a surface. No helping hands required. First of all I solder the pins in place on the pads like a normal SIP component thingy. Then I can carefully twist some (insulator-sleeve removed) of my 12 AWG wire over a pin. There are so many strands, a length of it can stand-up in the air by itself, anchored by twisting onto a pin. Enough length to (comfortably) flexibly bend to the switch (eventually) (after putting on some of those err ... things that go over the spades on the switch thingies). Yep. It just stays there. So I can take my time soldering it (not so much time as to lift the trace of the board (and no particularly heat-sensitive components are near enough to worry about them) but enough time for a 30W iron to attach it to the pad and at least glaze the strands most of the way around.) Next I similarly work on the next wire, though I can now use some electrical tape to stick it in place using the first wire as a crutch. And I move the blu-tack away from the heat. It's possible to do a fairly neat job with a little care and patience. Next I remove the plastic header-pin-retainer thing from underneath the board, and solder the pin protuberance under there to the pad like a normal component.
I'm confident that between contact with the pins, being pushed onto the pad, and being soldered to the pads, my wires should have a decent connection for that 20A even if it's not one solid lump of solder.
Finally of course a sleeve of heat shrink goes on.
I'm quite pleased with the result - staying with the traces/pads etc.
I still have to finish the build though - hopefully it'll all work! I'm using my 12 AWG wire in the through-holes to connect to the main board with ... though very very carefully so as not to have loose strands so close betwixt the poles - and very careful with heat application because of the finer via to connect to. It does seem a bit odd, the boards arrangement, for the heavy-current lifting. Oh well - will see how it fares. I suppose thinner wire over a very short distance, in air, and connecting meatier thermal mass either end, wouldn't do too badly though with 20A necessarily - the thermal connectivity and ambient conduction capacity of the air and all-round radiative capacity and considering a fairly low V-drop over a very short distance might not propose a significant issue, as a feed to a buck converter. Maybe. It's been too many decades since I last studied electronics. :)
But thanks again for this video. It was very useful, ta.
It still works - not had a chance to try the USB practically yet. Still working on a new revision/attempt at a LiFePO4 UPS I'm working ... I need two for my NUCs for starters (VMware) set-up ... just 19V, but also an isolated Pi-KVM each. I have an Ezcoo KVM that works with Pi-KVM but I accidentally bricked one when I was using it with a centralised Pi-KVM set-up using a centralised control system UPS I was making but using buck-boost modules for each device ... I'd forgotten how the inductive outputs would cause issues when making grounds common and using a buck-boost module for CC/CV battery charging. I did get a new Ezcoo and affordable Mean Well DC-DC isolating converters, but I've decided to simply have one Pi per UPS. Pref. Pi zero 2's as they work with CSI HDMI capture and perform well enough for about 1/5th of the power of the Pi 4's I'm using but it's so hard to get hold of Pi stuff now.
I'm obsessed with 50% standby intent ... thinking even if I charged to 100% every day and let the battery discharge powering my Nuc/Pi etc. to 50% - every day, I might still see 15 to 20 years of useful life if the battery BMS holds-up. But that's my speculation anyway and only working models and lots of data will provide more confidence to my assertions.
The secret sauce to my UPS fantasies are decent ideal diodes and decent converters. I'm using kit from the US ... from Minibox for the Y ideal diodes with enable capability, and their USB 200 buck/boost converter for my 19V NUC supply with wide input. I want to match at least a 120W PSU spec of my NUC's OEM supplies. Mean Well for a 150W 15V mains supply, a cheap buck/boost for CC/CV battery charging with an I2C FET switch on the input and a basic 15A ideal diode on the output, and a Mean Well 25W 5V DC - DC converter. Oh - and a 7A - 8A LiFePO4 12V battery that's really cheap! Bought a few of them ... they're good. INA226's for high-side (and low-side supported) I2C Voltage/Current measurement as they're available for cheap from Ali-Express along with some temp. probes.
This DPS5020 is to help me with charging/discharge experiments as I could just use MODBUS with my preferred C#.
I want to re-use a bunch of Arduino + similar-to-but-predating-Lorawan complementary encrypted serial wireless chips that are much more reliable for small packets of info over longer range etc. for my battery telemetry and central control / LTE VPN failover etc. for over-rides of the Arduino - there to manage that 50% charging but also to respond intelligently to various black-out / brown-out scenarios at different occurrence frequencies and patterns along with battery SoC and previous state for events to minimise boots/shutdowns and for phased recovery of multiple systems to avoid surges. Oh - and having double-conversion in a UPS provides opportunity for additional surge protection. The Pi-KVM will allow for a couple of cct overrides but I'm keeping it completely Vcc/Gnd isolated to help avoid ground loops via the NUC ... network's not a problem but the HDMI connection and OTG USB keyboard/mouse ... but the HDMI connection might be especially sensitive.
Yeah. LOTS to do! When I can get away from work! Oh - and my Arduino stuff ... I forgot ... that's to have it's own mini-UPS using a single LiFePO4 cell though that'll stay at 100% SOC mostly - I don't expect so much from that as the Arduino etc. will mostly be sleeping during extended black-outs after shutting down the main system. It should be useful for as long as the main battery in terms of calendar life I think.
Oh! I forgot ... my UPS's are going in the attic and have to very dust resistant while still being ventilated ... with a fan for the USB 200 converter only coming on when needed ... but I also have to take into account temperature for battery charging/discharging and temperature discharge current to spot potential overloads.
I wish I could just buy this stuff but I don't seem to be able to outside expensive Industrial Control systems. :( I want to put stuff in the attic and forget about it for 10 to 20 years. I want it to just work. To alert me if there's a major problem. Let the machines do the thinking; do the work. I want my brain for other things. But we seem to live in a society where we expect people to pick up the poop from the machines rather than vice-versa. I don't really "get" people lol.
Sorry - chatting and chatting. I don't get out much. :) And my colleagues are more "normal" lol and software people mostly with fewer hardware fantasies than mine and most people's eyes glaze over when I talk to them.
Anyways - I just thought I'd link to an Amazon review thingy I did ... as I stuck a few photos of my 12 AWG wiring in this buck PSU thingy ... err ... dsp5020. I keep forgetting what it's called lol. I'd better sleep now. :) (I'm a bit short on sleep atm).
www.amazon.co.uk/DollaTek-Communication-Step-Down-Converter-Voltmeter-DPS5020-USB/product-reviews/B07PJHF4FN/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_paging_btm_next_2?ie=UTF8&reviewerType=all_reviews&pageNumber=2
Had some sleep. Gosh I do waffle on. I did forget to say, about my UPS endeavours ... of course, my Arduino is to function as a watch dog for my Pi KVM, and the Pi KVM as a watch dog for my NUC's ... which is a major reason to integrate it with the UPS stuff for power cycling which I'll hardly ever need, avoiding running ATX control cabling into the NUCs themselves. I have massive heatsinks on them - essentially a passive system though I don't decrease the ... thingies ... where you set the CPU power over rolling-average type things for thermal performance. I forget names of things. Errr ... Tau I think they use for the timings. So I have an external fan, with large intake enclosures for reduced pressure intake over large filtered surface area, remembering this is going to sit in an extreme dusty environment with quite large temperature swings, but the fan won't need to be active often. Yeah - I'm trying to avoid too much interconnecting wiring adding complex dependency coupling between things. I'd rather just cycle the power feed, if it's an uncommon thing. I only restart my NUCs a few times a year, if that ... but the SSD's etc. are encrypted below the OS hand-off and I have to enter a password during that early boot phase (I can't afford the more expensive VMware encryption stuff but I'm happy with the "built-in" implementations for my needs - I hardly keep State secrets lol).
I'm using 10th Gen I7 Intel NUCs - Frost Canyons ... I'm very pleased with them. The 6-core approach seems to work well for VM CPU scheduling even if the multi-core performance == or is < 11th gen 4-core. I wanted something with very wide flexible power response, with touted idle power going as low as 4W (before peripherals etc.) because these things are always on for me for a decade+ but I only need it for home email, web server stuff, IoT / Home Assistant etc. though I might look at setting that up on a dedicated bigger-batter UPS central control system tied in with failover LTE/VPN, and on my NUCs still - various docker containers, oh - a VM that I use for my work/Dev and so on. Even with multiple OS's, as they idle, the over-all power required isn't that high. I don't need a high-end server. I wanted daily drivers and a "lab" all in one little neat package that'll stay relevant for a while at least. These NUCs aren't certified for 24/7 multi-year use but with the heatsinks and minimising thermal/electrical stress I'm hopeful. Hence another reason for all this UPS madness. And I don't have space for all this stuff, hence wanting to put it all in the attic - also less accessible and more theft resistant ... but also why I need it all to be very reliable as it'll be painful getting to them for maintenance. I still use pfSense in another oversized dedicated server because if I die or anything I want stuff that my spouse needs to "just work" for some time without me - aside from the more complex rigs. Though I'm looking at having two pfSense VM's - one as a failover, on my NUCs ... I have a passive Thunderbolt cable between them for 10Gb networking (Thunderbolt controller passthrough to the VMs) so my more complex routes etc for my VLANs can be more local and faster virtually. I have a pfSense VM running in Azure (cheaper than their appliances) for a site to site to my Azure stuff.
Yeah - overall I desire both "power" to have fun and do stuff reliably, but fairly efficiently too for the "value" it gives me. I get very frustrated when I can't just buy stuff and everything seems so wasteful.
Flexible (many thin wires) silicone-insulated wires helped a lot. 13 AWG (12 AWG did not fit in the big holes on the small switch board), but I had to solder the wires for the switch to the pads on the board.
Btw have you tired to switch off/adjust the speed of the fan on the case? It spins up even when there is no load.
I feel your pain. LOL! This is the problem with designers who never have to assemble their designs... They just hack and paste without any analysis.
No doubt it can be done, but a bit more consideration for the hobbyist/enthusiast market (vs. skilled professionals) would have led to a more user-friendly design. Luckily, things were close enough that I was able to figure out this alternative.
How did you attach the terminal ends to the switch?
A couple of female spade connectors - the 1/4" wide ones, if I recall correctly. If yours don't have an insulating jacket on them, you'll want to add some heatshrink. The case is very cramped and you wouldn't want anything shorting out in there.