I think you should try creating bigger spaces between your laptop and you cooling pad & maybe your desk and your cooling pad too. The bought one definetly has worse fans but its height helps a lot with the air flow. What "bottlenecks" your system is probably the limited mass of air that flows into it caused by the not-big enough spaces that restrict the airflow, so no matter what fans you are using if you physicly block the airflow fans speed & power dont matter. Just a theory of course. Creating more open space around the pad and lifting the laptop higher i think would help.
A third way is to customize. I bought a cheap one from a Chinese bazar (12€) that had a decent fan but absolutely shitty airflow because the fan (a wide, low RPM one) was encased between two grills, one finer and airflow enemy than the other, it made the thing useless out of the box, because it made the fan spin full blast to deliver a mere trickle of air. Trashed the top grill (that was the worst) and with some pliers removed much of the bottom one (besides the parts needed for structural support of the fan mounting) and now it has a decent airflow. It looks... not quite nice if the laptop isn't on it, with the exposed fan, but if the laptop is on it there's no difference from the just bought configuration, and now IT WORKS. I may want to apply some seal in the future, though. It does make a difference.
I can relate to you. I bought a cheap cooling pad then took off the top grill and cut off some useless bottom plastic. Airflow improved by a lot! But the looks... 😅😅
Great video! just downloaded your files can't wait to have it printed out. Great that you slip it in two, was using another design but it was too big for my schools printer!
Here is my solution. Feel free to use it. I have an asus gu502gu for reference (9th gen I-7 & 2070 max-q). Monitor is 2560x1080 144hz. My gpu temps were 92c, and cpu at 96c in stock configuration. Normally would get around 80-90 fps on first match while still cold at low settings. Then start getting random fps drops to the 20s once warmed up. No Bueno. You know those vertical oscillating fans? I found a mini one about 12" tall brand new in the box for $6 at my local goodwill. Then I removed the backplate and rested the back of the laptop on the fan turned sideways. It shoots a lot of air directly into whole system. On fan speed 3 (I use headphones while gaming), I was getting well over 120fps stable with med-high settings. I saw 100% gpu utilization and temps never got above 71c. It was insane to see at first. Cpu was at 78c. It works. I'm telling you. $70? 😂
@@NoizieWorks I sincerely apologize. I didn't see the notification or RUclips never gave me the notification on my phone. I'm a man of my word and very eager to help others. I'm a little busy right now, but later this afternoon I can take some pictures and post them for you guys to see including screen temps and utilization and my setup. I also bought a few more supplies and I'm going to mod it for watercoloring this afternoon. I stole the idea from another youtuber on here, but I have an engineering background so I'm going to overhaul and improve the efficiency of the design. But I'll take pictures / video of just the fan and then post the water cooled edition tomorrow. I really hope this helps others.
I wonder if anyone has tried doing something similar to those vacuum cooling pads such as IETS GT500 or similar ones from Llano or Klim. It seems to be way more effective and not that difficult to achieve.
This is awesome! I don't have a 3D printer and there aren't any available in my area to rent/use so I will likely have to build something from scratch-- maybe using PVC board and other parts from a hardware store, but the electrical info was interesting. What AWG wire was used? Do the BMS things come with instructions on how to connect them? The power bank idea is fantastic. I will have to see if they have the USB type C ones that I can stick a magnetic end into so I can charge it with a magnetic cord. That way there's no worries of the USB end getting bent/broken or damaging the slot.
Please share it! Would love to see it. Yes most come with instructions on the sellers page if you buy them on aliexpress. I have put 2 in to get more power(1,5 amp each but in practice it's lower) but i think it's better to look for a bms with higher amp rating or use low speed fans that pull less power. This is a very low power setup ,75mm2 wire about 18awg is plenty. Great idea with the magnetic port👌 printers are very cheap these days maybe consider it?
@@NoizieWorks Thank you. The fan thing is just an idea right now. I have to take care of some renovations first. Almost finished with one bathroom renovation and still have two more plus a laundry room. Doing it by myself with the help of a friend since contractors won't come out where I live. I'm in a remote area. I appreciate the additional info. How many amps do you think would be needed for the bms?"
Avoid the magnetic cables. They are all trash. Yes, its a low current situation so resistance isn't the most important but across the board the magnetic cables are just not worth it. You'll get much better charging times with a standard cable. I'd look at the IP5328P module. It's a 1S module meaning if you want to use multiple cells you just put them in parallel (make sure they are at the same voltage first, within 0.1V is usually good enough otherwise if they are significantly further apart than that you'll see a large charging current enter the lower cell and a large discharging current from energy leaving the higher cell. Discharging current is usually significantly more than charging current so the lower cell is going to be getting hit with a big current for a short period of time. Just not good for the cell and if its a salvaged cell you could really be risking your safety....new cells I wouldn't be too worried about thermal runaway but salvaged cells are an unknown unless you know how to test them for degradation/capacity/IR) If you want to use cell holders I INSIST you not use the el cheapo ones and use the Keystone ones with the gold leaf contacts (or a similar clone). The newer Keystone ones have a nickel plated steel leaf spring contact which is probably almost just as good. www.modmaker.com/keystone-1048-186502-battery-sled That's the type I recommend. Just use a short piece of wire (stranded or solid core doesn't really matter just don't use something thin like 18 or 20AWG. I'd use at least 16 AWG. Obviously using 5000mAh 21700's is going to make the most sense. LG M50LT, Samsung 50E, Lishen LR2170SD, etc. They all have a continuous current rating of 10A or higher so that would give you 20A if you had 2 in parallel. I'm pretty sure they make a 2 cell 21700 holder but not a 4 cell. 10,000mAh should do you pretty well. Then just use the same wire gauge (stranded silicone would be best/easiest here) for the connections to the IP5328P. It's only a $4 module and the cells should be $5 each. 18650BatteryStore or LiIonWholesale in the USA, Fogstar or Nkon for Europe. You'll have USB C and USB A output with fast charging (PD up to 12V I believe, max of 18W or 22.5W) Super simple option that would cost you $5 for the cell holder, $4 for the module and $10 for the cells. I think you'd be hard pressed to find a 10,000mAh PD powerbank for under $20 and you have the ability to pull out the cells for replacement or to add more in the future. You can put as many in parallel as you want so if you want to add 10 cells you could power the fans and charge your phone for hours and hours. Step it up to a better module (I can go into more detail if you're interested) and you could have 100W+ of PD power so charging a USB C laptop would be possible. IP2368 is my favorite but its only a single USB C port...there are other two port options that are bidirectional but they do require putting cells in series but thats easy. You could turn your laptop cooling pad into a laptop power bank.
80 degrees celcius is still very dangerous it could harm the CPU, my cpu temperature was JUST below 100 degrees, ever since i got the ventilators and the laptop cooling pad, im able to maintain the GPU to MAYBE 69 to 72 for automatic temperatures, and the fans that i have in this laptop doesn't work properly, even though it is moving air around, its still dangerous, you could have it overclocked, i for one had it overclocked the CPU, just by using throttlestopper as of now, im not doing any heavy gaming. if i were to do it DIY, then i would THEN make it so i can have it automatically though i don't know how to make it into an AI to read temperatures me using the throttlestopper to 23 makes the comfortable temperatures to like 50 - 65 degrees celcius i have vacuum suction as well to pull out the air. still a safe working environment to be honest.
I think you should try creating bigger spaces between your laptop and you cooling pad & maybe your desk and your cooling pad too. The bought one definetly has worse fans but its height helps a lot with the air flow. What "bottlenecks" your system is probably the limited mass of air that flows into it caused by the not-big enough spaces that restrict the airflow, so no matter what fans you are using if you physicly block the airflow fans speed & power dont matter. Just a theory of course. Creating more open space around the pad and lifting the laptop higher i think would help.
A third way is to customize. I bought a cheap one from a Chinese bazar (12€) that had a decent fan but absolutely shitty airflow because the fan (a wide, low RPM one) was encased between two grills, one finer and airflow enemy than the other, it made the thing useless out of the box, because it made the fan spin full blast to deliver a mere trickle of air.
Trashed the top grill (that was the worst) and with some pliers removed much of the bottom one (besides the parts needed for structural support of the fan mounting) and now it has a decent airflow. It looks... not quite nice if the laptop isn't on it, with the exposed fan, but if the laptop is on it there's no difference from the just bought configuration, and now IT WORKS.
I may want to apply some seal in the future, though. It does make a difference.
I can relate to you. I bought a cheap cooling pad then took off the top grill and cut off some useless bottom plastic. Airflow improved by a lot! But the looks... 😅😅
Great video! just downloaded your files can't wait to have it printed out. Great that you slip it in two, was using another design but it was too big for my schools printer!
Cool! Please tag me on insta or send me a pm on Facebook so i can check it out 😁 and let me know how it went!
I really like the results, but they prove that there is no science without bias. Well done
Add foam insert to your design top so laptop can make seal for the airflow
Nice!! I want to order one with my logo on it 🥳🥳
I really like that because you are comparing the best laptop cooler. 👍
Here is my solution. Feel free to use it. I have an asus gu502gu for reference (9th gen I-7 & 2070 max-q). Monitor is 2560x1080 144hz.
My gpu temps were 92c, and cpu at 96c in stock configuration. Normally would get around 80-90 fps on first match while still cold at low settings. Then start getting random fps drops to the 20s once warmed up. No Bueno. You know those vertical oscillating fans? I found a mini one about 12" tall brand new in the box for $6 at my local goodwill. Then I removed the backplate and rested the back of the laptop on the fan turned sideways. It shoots a lot of air directly into whole system. On fan speed 3 (I use headphones while gaming), I was getting well over 120fps stable with med-high settings. I saw 100% gpu utilization and temps never got above 71c. It was insane to see at first. Cpu was at 78c. It works. I'm telling you. $70? 😂
My man, this sounds insane 😅 please send me some pics on insta or facebook i want to see this one 😁🤓🥼
@@NoizieWorks I sincerely apologize. I didn't see the notification or RUclips never gave me the notification on my phone. I'm a man of my word and very eager to help others. I'm a little busy right now, but later this afternoon I can take some pictures and post them for you guys to see including screen temps and utilization and my setup. I also bought a few more supplies and I'm going to mod it for watercoloring this afternoon. I stole the idea from another youtuber on here, but I have an engineering background so I'm going to overhaul and improve the efficiency of the design. But I'll take pictures / video of just the fan and then post the water cooled edition tomorrow. I really hope this helps others.
I wonder if anyone has tried doing something similar to those vacuum cooling pads such as IETS GT500 or similar ones from Llano or Klim. It seems to be way more effective and not that difficult to achieve.
Not that i know of, i got a lot better in fusion so maybe i will try to replicate the IETS design in the future 🤔
This is awesome! I don't have a 3D printer and there aren't any available in my area to rent/use so I will likely have to build something from scratch-- maybe using PVC board and other parts from a hardware store, but the electrical info was interesting. What AWG wire was used? Do the BMS things come with instructions on how to connect them?
The power bank idea is fantastic. I will have to see if they have the USB type C ones that I can stick a magnetic end into so I can charge it with a magnetic cord. That way there's no worries of the USB end getting bent/broken or damaging the slot.
Please share it! Would love to see it. Yes most come with instructions on the sellers page if you buy them on aliexpress. I have put 2 in to get more power(1,5 amp each but in practice it's lower) but i think it's better to look for a bms with higher amp rating or use low speed fans that pull less power. This is a very low power setup ,75mm2 wire about 18awg is plenty. Great idea with the magnetic port👌 printers are very cheap these days maybe consider it?
@@NoizieWorks Thank you. The fan thing is just an idea right now. I have to take care of some renovations first. Almost finished with one bathroom renovation and still have two more plus a laundry room. Doing it by myself with the help of a friend since contractors won't come out where I live. I'm in a remote area. I appreciate the additional info. How many amps do you think would be needed for the bms?"
Avoid the magnetic cables. They are all trash. Yes, its a low current situation so resistance isn't the most important but across the board the magnetic cables are just not worth it. You'll get much better charging times with a standard cable. I'd look at the IP5328P module. It's a 1S module meaning if you want to use multiple cells you just put them in parallel (make sure they are at the same voltage first, within 0.1V is usually good enough otherwise if they are significantly further apart than that you'll see a large charging current enter the lower cell and a large discharging current from energy leaving the higher cell. Discharging current is usually significantly more than charging current so the lower cell is going to be getting hit with a big current for a short period of time. Just not good for the cell and if its a salvaged cell you could really be risking your safety....new cells I wouldn't be too worried about thermal runaway but salvaged cells are an unknown unless you know how to test them for degradation/capacity/IR)
If you want to use cell holders I INSIST you not use the el cheapo ones and use the Keystone ones with the gold leaf contacts (or a similar clone). The newer Keystone ones have a nickel plated steel leaf spring contact which is probably almost just as good.
www.modmaker.com/keystone-1048-186502-battery-sled
That's the type I recommend. Just use a short piece of wire (stranded or solid core doesn't really matter just don't use something thin like 18 or 20AWG. I'd use at least 16 AWG.
Obviously using 5000mAh 21700's is going to make the most sense. LG M50LT, Samsung 50E, Lishen LR2170SD, etc. They all have a continuous current rating of 10A or higher so that would give you 20A if you had 2 in parallel. I'm pretty sure they make a 2 cell 21700 holder but not a 4 cell. 10,000mAh should do you pretty well. Then just use the same wire gauge (stranded silicone would be best/easiest here) for the connections to the IP5328P. It's only a $4 module and the cells should be $5 each. 18650BatteryStore or LiIonWholesale in the USA, Fogstar or Nkon for Europe. You'll have USB C and USB A output with fast charging (PD up to 12V I believe, max of 18W or 22.5W)
Super simple option that would cost you $5 for the cell holder, $4 for the module and $10 for the cells. I think you'd be hard pressed to find a 10,000mAh PD powerbank for under $20 and you have the ability to pull out the cells for replacement or to add more in the future. You can put as many in parallel as you want so if you want to add 10 cells you could power the fans and charge your phone for hours and hours. Step it up to a better module (I can go into more detail if you're interested) and you could have 100W+ of PD power so charging a USB C laptop would be possible. IP2368 is my favorite but its only a single USB C port...there are other two port options that are bidirectional but they do require putting cells in series but thats easy. You could turn your laptop cooling pad into a laptop power bank.
Thanks for the massive write up! Right now i'm to busy to revisit the cooler but all files are free to download if you want to give it a shot 😉
What a handy crafter! Bravo. I'm just looking for same crafts and here you are.
Thank you! Try it out and let me know 😁
80 degrees celcius is still very dangerous it could harm the CPU, my cpu temperature was JUST below 100 degrees, ever since i got the ventilators and the laptop cooling pad, im able to maintain the GPU to MAYBE 69 to 72 for automatic temperatures, and the fans that i have in this laptop doesn't work properly, even though it is moving air around, its still dangerous, you could have it overclocked, i for one had it overclocked the CPU, just by using throttlestopper as of now, im not doing any heavy gaming. if i were to do it DIY, then i would THEN make it so i can have it automatically though i don't know how to make it into an AI to read temperatures me using the throttlestopper to 23 makes the comfortable temperatures to like 50 - 65 degrees celcius i have vacuum suction as well to pull out the air. still a safe working environment to be honest.
Try the GT500 laptop cooler it’s way better then the one you used
Hi bro create very cool and creative one
Do you have a link to the fan controller thingy? And do you have more detailed instructions on how to do the wiring?
Hit me up on insta/facebook or mail. Wil share some more detailed pictures. The fancontroller was something i had around from a pc build
@@NoizieWorks Thanks! I'll try to find you on Instagram.
Can you make an T Shape ver
A T shaper version? You will have to give some more info
well the IETS is 200+ usd here in india
😯😯 damn!
Good DIY, but I think you installed your fans in reverse.. You want to blow air into your laptop, your orientation is pulling air
They are pushing air into it😉
Running 3 fans with 2 batteries is a very naive idea. Simply use a 12 volt adapter!
If it works 😄🤷♂️
@@NoizieWorks How long ?
@qnedim3200 more then an hour and you can plug it in the laptop and use it like that
DIY " if you know what you're doing" is way better!
Edit:you're
AND way more fun 😉