Knowing personally how excellent one of these guys climbs, it is mindboggling what the top of the top are showing. How hard are the boulders they flash or do in 4 minutes. Uncomprehendable. There really are levels to this.
True! It's all I can think of when you talk about, "true but it for women" I don't think anyone's being sexist, I just wish women were sitting women's routes.
Love the video man! Thanks for putting this stuff on RUclips; it's hard to find high-quality videos around this topic, and as someone who is trying to get into route setting-- it is much appreciated! Keep up the awesome work.
I thought this was great. The male problem they spent so much time on this video really encapsulates what I think a olympic boulder should contain! Its got funk while still retaining difficulty and demand to physique. Great video series
This series is just awesome! Imagine doing this as a job... Would be amazing!! How is it possible to become IFSC routesetter? It would be interesting if you could include info on this in one of the next episodes! Keep going, these videos are great!!!
It was good final great setting we saw some incredible feats of strength. On that close ups it looks impossible and to do it in couple minutes or flash big respect.
Didn’t see that before. Seems to be a youtube issue somehow - I’ll keep it online cause there’s nothing you miss out. Even if it really annoys me now. Damn
For casual viewers to appreciate how difficult the routes in comp events are - they need to hire a couple of famous high level climbers who are not quite at current comp level and make them try out each route for the audience each time. It would give a better frame of reference just how insanely good all the competitors are (even those who finish last).
Emil already has a video of him and some GB guys trying the men's Brixen final boulders, which considering they all boulder 8B or harder outdoors is a good frame of reference imo.
Women should climb the mens boulders and vice versa. I think it would be more exciting and fun seeing women managing to climb mens and see some men failing on womens boulders.
Great work Niki! Thx a lot for that fascinating insights. But on the setting process: honestly i think that's a disgrace to the ifsc. 8 Setters who can hardly communicate, cause only 2 of them can phrase complete english sentences, a setting process in which the chief setter doesn't utilize the creativity and unique skills/ideas of his setters but instead recognizes after 5 minutes that he ordered 4 times a "powerful/tricky" boulder for each final cause "powerful/tricky" is what bouldering is all about... That leads to a situation in which testing means seeing Tsukuru in every move, decisions get arbitrary and top predictions far off instead of 8 specialists mutually presenting their unique creations to tweak them together... I think we desperately need incentives for younger/stronger/more specialized setters in worldcups and a structure for a far better moderated setting process! And a female setter in the crew telling the old men that "powerful" is not everything bouldering is about would probably help too ;-)
Thanks for your feedback but… haha no but you can have your own opinion and own thoughts but always remember for the ifsc it’s mainly about two things first when setting a comp: 1. result 2. don’t kill anyone How to get there is up to the setter. Whole some setters nowadays are used to another approach there’s just no right or wrong. And if communication is different sometimes that’s just life 😊 Imo he utilizes everyone and everything sooner or later. We’re just 2 episodes in so I think It would be nicer to wait and be more patient before jumping to conclusions. And in the end the result show was one of the best so far this season - but that’s also my opinion and I’m emotionally attached to it. But It makes me happy that everyone puts a lot of effort into their thoughts what could be changed - keep on and talk soon? 😊 Niki
Small critic to the organization: why there are no female setters for the women competition? I think it would be very important to have a woman try and set the boulders since she will have a better understanding of the physical parameters that, as we know, are different than the one for men.
Sorry that you feel that way. It didn’t feel to me and he was / is open to input. But I can say for sure it was in no way a setting competition 😊 anyway thanks for your feedback and your thoughts
He needs to be decided in some ways as the cheef, but is hard not to notice, that he asks questions almost all the time, so i think he is open for input. Btw. That comp turned out as one of the best/ most interesting/ balanced comps in the last time. It was a show !
Knowing personally how excellent one of these guys climbs, it is mindboggling what the top of the top are showing. How hard are the boulders they flash or do in 4 minutes. Uncomprehendable. There really are levels to this.
Tsukuru is such a beast!
Love it thanks!
We need female setters.
True! The gym I work at has been looking for women to work here and we cant find ANYONE!
True! It's all I can think of when you talk about, "true but it for women" I don't think anyone's being sexist, I just wish women were sitting women's routes.
Awesome stuff! Keep it coming - make it longer!
Love the video man! Thanks for putting this stuff on RUclips; it's hard to find high-quality videos around this topic, and as someone who is trying to get into route setting-- it is much appreciated! Keep up the awesome work.
Super interesting! It was so much fun to first watch the creation process and then again for each problem the competition run-through.
You are super Niky! Thank you for this new great video!!! 🤩🙏
These videos are sick! I really enjoyed seeing the athletes get tested at Brixen. Keen to see the creation of M3.
Amazing thanks for all the videos and hard work of the setters
I very much enjoyed your videos about setting processes. Thanks.
I can’t wait to see todays setting vlog.
I feel like it’s gonna be interesting
I thought this was great. The male problem they spent so much time on this video really encapsulates what I think a olympic boulder should contain! Its got funk while still retaining difficulty and demand to physique. Great video series
This series is just awesome! Imagine doing this as a job... Would be amazing!! How is it possible to become IFSC routesetter? It would be interesting if you could include info on this in one of the next episodes!
Keep going, these videos are great!!!
It was good final great setting we saw some incredible feats of strength. On that close ups it looks impossible and to do it in couple minutes or flash big respect.
Sehr gut Nickie!
realy nice footage!!!!!! super interesting
great stuff. loving it
18:56 the sync haha
do they say ‚it‘s morpho‘? 36:35
What does that mean?
Awesome. Too long, since I set the last time....
It's too easy !
Not hard enough!
Competitors could handle this!
Not hard enough for them !
Yeah, they may hate this！Nice.
Perfect summary - should I stop now? 😉
25:37 cuts to black?
Didn’t see that before. Seems to be a youtube issue somehow - I’ll keep it online cause there’s nothing you miss out. Even if it really annoys me now. Damn
What happened to the video at 26:00 😄
Wow. Good question. Corrupted file. But you don’t miss out somehow. RUclips let’s me down 😔
what happened at 26:00? very long black screen
The magic of youtube… I don’t really know honestly. Will double check before publishing episode 3
@@BetaRoutesetting don't worry. still a great vid, thanks!
For casual viewers to appreciate how difficult the routes in comp events are - they need to hire a couple of famous high level climbers who are not quite at current comp level and make them try out each route for the audience each time. It would give a better frame of reference just how insanely good all the competitors are (even those who finish last).
Emil already has a video of him and some GB guys trying the men's Brixen final boulders, which considering they all boulder 8B or harder outdoors is a good frame of reference imo.
What are the differences between setting for the woman and men? Are they different styles, easier or the same but less reachy for a smaller box?
a little less reachy and require a little less strength
Women should climb the mens boulders and vice versa. I think it would be more exciting and fun seeing women managing to climb mens and see some men failing on womens boulders.
Great work Niki! Thx a lot for that fascinating insights.
But on the setting process: honestly i think that's a disgrace to the ifsc. 8 Setters who can hardly communicate, cause only 2 of them can phrase complete english sentences, a setting process in which the chief setter doesn't utilize the creativity and unique skills/ideas of his setters but instead recognizes after 5 minutes that he ordered 4 times a "powerful/tricky" boulder for each final cause "powerful/tricky" is what bouldering is all about...
That leads to a situation in which testing means seeing Tsukuru in every move, decisions get arbitrary and top predictions far off instead of 8 specialists mutually presenting their unique creations to tweak them together...
I think we desperately need incentives for younger/stronger/more specialized setters in worldcups and a structure for a far better moderated setting process!
And a female setter in the crew telling the old men that "powerful" is not everything bouldering is about would probably help too ;-)
Thanks for your feedback but… haha no but you can have your own opinion and own thoughts but always remember for the ifsc it’s mainly about two things first when setting a comp:
1. result
2. don’t kill anyone
How to get there is up to the setter. Whole some setters nowadays are used to another approach there’s just no right or wrong. And if communication is different sometimes that’s just life 😊
Imo he utilizes everyone and everything sooner or later. We’re just 2 episodes in so I think It would be nicer to wait and be more patient before jumping to conclusions.
And in the end the result show was one of the best so far this season - but that’s also my opinion and I’m emotionally attached to it.
But It makes me happy that everyone puts a lot of effort into their thoughts what could be changed - keep on and talk soon? 😊
Niki
Small critic to the organization: why there are no female setters for the women competition? I think it would be very important to have a woman try and set the boulders since she will have a better understanding of the physical parameters that, as we know, are different than the one for men.
Setting team's should certainly look more diverse than this. Cool video though, nice insight into the process!
Remember it's for the female LOL
Feels like a routesetting competition not teamwork, It's unfortunate. Marcin really does not seem open for input.
Sorry that you feel that way. It didn’t feel to me and he was / is open to input.
But I can say for sure it was in no way a setting competition 😊 anyway thanks for your feedback and your thoughts
He needs to be decided in some ways as the cheef, but is hard not to notice, that he asks questions almost all the time, so i think he is open for input. Btw. That comp turned out as one of the best/ most interesting/ balanced comps in the last time. It was a show !