How to Photograph Basketball (UPDATED)
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- Опубликовано: 5 июл 2024
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In this updated video, I show you all the tips and tricks you need to know to get started in photographing basketball - positioning, camera and lens recommendations, camera settings, and more!
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Follow-up videos I mentioned in the video:
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White Balance for Sports Photography - • White Balance for Spor...
RAW vs JPEG for Sports Photography - • RAW vs JPEG: Which is ...
Auto ISO vs Manual ISO - • Auto ISO in Manual Mode
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Chapters:
0:00 - Intro
1:30 - Positioning
5:23 - Camera and Lens Recommendations
8:50 - Camera Settings
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I had watched his old basketball video a few weeks ago. I’m very glad he an update version. I’m currently shooting my High School’s Basketball Team, and I picked up tips from that old video.
A great refresher for a guy who primarily shoots outdoor sports. Thanks
Great video, Jack. Love the overheads!
Thanks!
Great video, thank you for all that info
Crazy cause I literally watched your old basketball video yesterday, It was my first time shooting basketball last night so this video is clutch for the upcoming games. Love the content!
Thanks!
This video is so helpful, I'm a entry level high school photographer, and you have no idea how much this helped me improve my shots and angles. Along with edits. Tysm!!
Super helpful and thoughtful. Very much appreciate that you took the time to share. Hopefully many athletes, coaches, fans, and families will enjoy the wisdom of your experience.
Great information Jack. Fairly New to your videos and love your stuff what I have seen. I have a D500 and A 7-200 f2.8. love it. But still learning the camera and the BANKS. Do you have any video's specifically for setting up your camera with the memory banks? Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Great videos. Good lighting, good sound quality. Very informative. Keep up the good work.
Thank you!
Your videos are the best!
Thank you!
Such a good video, very informative
Thank you!
Super helpful, thank you for sharing .
Thank you very helpful, going to be in town seeing family coming up and was asked to take photos of my cousins game and I have not done basketball or really any indoor stuff like this.
The best information on RUclips and the world
I like to think so! 😀
Appreciate the tips! At the end would of like to see more examples with camera settings and lens used.
Great info my guy!
Thanks!
I used a shutter speed of 500 with an iso of 4000, 3.2 fstop on my Z9. No blur what so ever. I am also using the Nikkor Z 70-200 S lens. I also use a Nikon Z7 with the Nikkor Z 24-70 f 2.8. Looks great...
Thank you for the advice from Facebook!
Great video, thank you!!!
Thanks!
Jack, a great video as always. If I’m in a well lit gym, I generally use my 70-200 from the spots you noted. I do shoot in a few dungeons, though, and in those times, I go with an 85 1.8 just outside the lane, and a 135 1.8 by the three point line. I shoot these at f/2.2 (which gives me 2/3 stop faster shutter speed), and my D5 always nails focus.
Regarding white balance, I always use a preset white balance set on the team with the white uniforms- even if it’s not perfect, it gives me a consistent base to adjust my WB in every shot.
With my D5, I always use the in camera jpgs, because the in camera BR works great, I don’t have time to run my shots through denoise due to my deadlines.
I’ve also found that if I shoot at ISO 12,800, and expose at a 1/3 of a stop over, I get less noise than if I shoot at ISO 6400 and shoot right on. This gives me an even faster shutter speed.
Thanks! Yes, I am an advocate for slightly overexposing to reduce noise. And I agree, if I was on a tight deadline, it would be jpegs.
Thank you for a great video. Greetings from Germany
Thank you!
Just started shooting basketball this season. Has been a blast. Like you said, lots of action. I’ve shot mostly behind the baseline around the 3 point line with both the 24-70 and 70-200. Great to get a variety of shots. Going to try the 24-70 closer to the basket tonight. Question for you. Do you mostly shoot basketball vertically or are there certain situations (location and lens) that you shoot horizontally? Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. Photography is something you can always learn more about and I have been watching your videos and picking up things to help my sports photography.
Basketball is definitely more vertical than horizontal, but when using the 24-70, I get some horizontals at wider focal lengths. Also, if shooting down the court to get defensive plays, you can get horizontals there.
Great video that covers much of the shooting variations encountered shooting hoops. As a media freelance photographer, I use two Canon R3s, one with the 70-200 2.8 mm and the other, an RF 24-135 mm 4.0 for wide angle shots. Good images from the 70-200 mm cropped down 2X+ in post gives good clean images for shots across the court. One setting I NEVER use, anti-flicker. The reason is that the camera will hesitate to shoot, or stutter in burst shots, waiting for correct white balance/exposure. I tried that once and lost out on the peak moment of the shot.....never again! I will correct offsetting colors or exposure in post for that decisive moment. Anti flicker is better used in passive events, like formal dinners or weddings/parties, when LED lighting is used.
I think anti flicker has improved over the years. I never have a stuttering problem on my cameras.
Great video Jack. In my area we have gyms with decent light and some old dungeons that are impossible to shoot. I tried that location last game and found that the players on offense get blocked out of view a lot. So I went around the corner to the 3 point line and the referee became a problem and he never stayed in the same location. So most shot opportunities were with my 85mm f1.8 using f2.8 at ISO 3200 and 1250 under the basket. Day game with gym windows allowed lower ISO. The weird thing is I got noise in some of my photos at ISO 3200? Not sure what that is? I changed my NR from standard to high for next time. Wondering if the back lighting from the sun coming in the windows caused the noise? Keep shooting.
Yes, I've tried to find the perfect spot to avoid referees, and I think it comes down to either in the stands or on the outside corner. I've found no two referees stand in the same spot. I've shot back to back games at the same location, but every referee wants to stand somewhere different.
Thank you!
Great video! I found pretty much all the information I need to improve my shots. I mostly take pictures at soccer games with daylight so I use a 70-300 with my nikon D5600 and it works just great. However, when it comes to indoor sports (I take photographs at basketball games and indoor soccer games) I struggle a lot to get decent photos. I'm now using a 50mm because I needed the f1.8 to get the light right, but I'm not quite happy with the results. I find my photos to have so much noise, even though I set the ISO at 1000 or 2000 tops.
I also tried the 70-300 at basketball games, but the grades are too high and the angle is weird it makes all the players short and distort.
I really would like to try another lens but the 70-200 is way out of my budget. Could you please recomend another option?
Thank you very much!!
For high ISO situations, I like to use Topaz Denoise. There’s a link with a discount code down in the description
The scorer's tables in our area are long with a brightly lit logo in front. Because of this, I like to avoid the corners shooting towards the benches if possible. For white balance, our school colors are red and grey. The upper part of the walls are grey, which gives a great place to select for LR to color balance.
Yeah, I know what you mean about the table with lighting. My artistry wasn’t to scale!
THANK YOU!!!!!
Thank you
Amazing!
Thanks!
Thank you Jack! Great video. Do you have any videos of your workflow using topaz denoise or sharpening ai? Thank you.
Yep, this one - ruclips.net/video/fIfZFuHQiEs/видео.html
@@JackBeasleyMedia Thanks very much Jack!!
Did I miss talking about back button focus control. I use servo so I am focusing before I shoot and my camera is following my subject.
Jack: I'm shooting sports (Primarily baseball and hockey at the moment) with Canon R5 (45Mpixel) electronic shutter at 20fps using older adapted EF 70-200mm F2.8. Hockey lighting is sometimes low but speeds 1/1250s, F2.8, Iso 3200 and auto WB. A new firmware updated ability to take an image of the ice which really works to set the WB immediately and fantastic through out the game. I shoot CRAW plus jpg and found the in-camera jpg is almost ready to go with minor post tweaking.(200-3000 images per game) I also have an RF 24-105mm F4. which I was hoping to use next season for our 2022 summer games competitions in Niagara area of Southern Ontario, Canada. The camera has a 1.6 crop available which allows longer distance shooting if necessary. Do you think the 24-105 F4 will be useable for Basketball? Thank you for your informed info for sports photography.
Hey Larry, I think that 24-105 on a crop frame will be good. You might have to use some lower shutter speeds or higher ISOs with that f4, though.
Jack, I used some of your suggestions this past weekend. I was shooting my granddaughters 7th grade basketball team and I was pleasantly surprised with the photos. I have a D7100 and was using a Tamron 2.8 70-210 lens. Shutter 500th, 2.8, ISO 5000, and white balance auto. The facility was top notch, but the lighting was not good for sports photography. I have been considering moving to full frame so will check out the D5 or D850. What is the difference between the two cameras? I take the photos as a hobby and not as an income generator.
You might consider going with a Nikon Z6ii. It’ll perform better in low light situations than a D850. Plus, the world is going to mirror less.
@@JackBeasleyMedia thanks I will check into that camera
Hey Jack, Im a university sports photographer and I'm having the toughest time getting the right lighting without too much grit/noise in an indoor gym setting. I have a T3I canon with a 55-250mm but I'm starting to think my problem is that my lens doesn't go to 2.8f and only goes as low as a 4.0f. I really hope you can give your opinion on what settings to be used or maybe it really is my lens. Thanks so much.
Unfortunately, anything smaller in aperture than f2.8 puts you at a disadvantage, especially in less-expensive zoom lenses that increase their f-stop as you zoom out. I recommend you shoot down at 1/500 (where you'll still get some movement blur) and as wide-open as your lens will go. You might also consider prime lenses that open to f2.8 or even wider. 85mm works great with many indoor sports, like basketball.
Do you think a Sony A7iii would be good enough for sports photography? I also have a older Canon 5D Markii. Thank you for your thought on this.
Yes, you should do fine with it.
I know you're talking in general terms that "the camera doesn't matter", but for the HS and even D1 College I shoot at, both gyms don't have good LED lights over the floor. The HS is brutal, but the college for some reason put the new white light over the stands and still have the yellow lights over the floor. My D500 on a 70-200 f/2.8 still had a hard time. It wasn't until I rented a D5 where I finally was gettting great shots from both venues. I Agree needing to have the anti-flicker on, it's a must!
Yeah, I try not to be too specific with one brand or another, if I can help it. Thanks for watching!
I always appreciate pros sharing what works for them. I've been shooting a lot of high school basketball (2-3 games a week this season) because both my boys play, and I've learned a lot. I'm a canon shooter (1Dx) and have a gen1 70-200mm f/2.8 IS and a 24-70mm f/2.8, and I've found the 70-200 just isn't right for my situation. I always sit on the baseline between the block and the 3 point line, and the 70-200 almost always crops the players if they are anywhere near the baseline. I like being able to get the hoop/net in the shot, or the ball just leaving their hands when shooting.
In high school gyms (at least around here), there is usually very little space between the baseline and the wall, so I have to use the 24-70. Also, the lighting is almost always absolutely terrible....and why are the walls always a dirty yellowish color???? I run auto ISO, and it jumps from 2000-6000 in the same game. I'm hesitant to set the ISO and have a fair number of my pictures be under/over exposed.
A couple things that I deal with that you didn't mention: how to set up your AF point? I've evolved to single point focus just above center (shooting vertical). Also, one thing you may mention, which isn't necessarily related to shooting basketball, is calibrating or adjusting your AF. I just did this, and my AF was off a little, so I'm interested to see how the next game goes (day after tomorrow). Another thing that works for me, is to just take a ton of pictures. Being at 12fps helps, but I've gotten some really cool pictures that show stuff I didn't see when it happened. I'll take 150-300 pictures per game. And you are spot on about hoops: plenty of action and you can get close enough to get some great shots.
Thanks for watching! For AF points I use a group of nine and move it up in frame to have a better chance of focusing on faces.
Hey! I’m starting out photography and I’m learning to shoot on manual mode. My lense only allows me to shoot at F4.0. My pictures come out super clear and are amazing. They’re just pretty dark and have some grit to them. I have a Cannon t7 rebel. What can I change or do you have any recommendations?
If they're dark, you have some options. As you know, shoot wide open. Set your shutter down around 1/640 or 1/800. 1/1000 is better, but you can get away with those lower numbers, for the most part. Next, you have to raise your ISO. The Rebel isn't known for good performance in low light, but you work with what you've got. Finally, you might want to invest in a product like Topaz Denoise to clean up the "grit" in your photos. Beyond that, you're looking at higher end cameras and lenses. Good luck!
I’m on my way to shoot a college game for the first time. I’m new and brought my 35mm lens instead of my 50mm. Wish I found your video earlier
Thanks for the knowledge. I got everything and other players just blocks my view when I almost get a good shot. Sometimes it's the referee that blocks my view.
It happens! I have tons of photos of referees’ asses.
Hi Jack, just came across this video. I mostly shoot american football her in the Netherlands and that goes well, Now friends asked if I could do basketball for them. I understand all the things you said and I have a 70-200 F2,8. But which focus point setting should I use? One point of multiple? I am a Canon shooter. Thank you
Personally, I've never been crazy about single point. I feel like the "group" settings give me greater success.
Thank you . I will try that first then@@JackBeasleyMedia
wan to ask . in a basketball hall for mirrorless camera use electronic shutter or mechanical shutter ?
Since you don’t really have a warping issue in basketball, I would imagine that either one will work fine.
I got a question. Can a Sony a6500 work with a sony 4/18-105 lens for basketball photography.. any tips if the lighting is bad in the gym… and you don’t wanna turn the iso up
Can it be done? Yes. The f4 lens is not the best, but it can be done. I recommend taking the shutter speed down to 1/500 sec and opening up that lens to f4. Having said that, you will still probably have to increase ISO. There's no way around it, unless that gym is very well lit. Also, 1/500 is a bit slow and you're still going to get some movement blur, especially in hands and feet.
I used to always use anti-flicker in the 4 high school gyms that I regularly shoot in -- when I was using a 7D2. Now that I'm using an R6, I find that I can use the 20fps electronic shutter in 2 of those gyms. That means that I'm not using the anti-flicker, but the newer lighting makes that not a problem.
I shoot at probably 10 different schools in my area, both indoor and outdoor lighting situations. I see a huge variety of lighting - some are great, some are horrible. I agree that some venues with good lighting have no flicker problem and that new camera technologies alleviate the problem. The question becomes - if the venue's lighting doesn't require antiflicker, is the antiflicker actually doing anything? My argument is no, the camera knows it's not needed and doesn't apply antiflicker. Many argue that their camera stutters with antiflicker on and they're potentially losing shots. My response to that is - only when the antiflicker is actually working. For example, in broad daylight, I never notice any stuttering - because the camera knows antiflicker isn't needed and therefore doesn't apply it. This is why I say, turn it on and leave it on.
@@JackBeasleyMedia I'd agree with that if having it on was innocuous when it's not needed. The problem for me in that case is that to have it on requires the R6 to use the max 12fps mechanical shutter. Anti-flicker is grayed out for the max 20fps electronic shutter.
Ah, ok.
Hi I’m buying a Sony a7iii just the body will you suggest me to buy a good 70-200 or a 24-70. I’m mostly doing videography for basketball
I'd go with the 70-200.
we love basketball
So what focus mode do you use for your Nikon Z8/Z9?
Usually wide-area small
Massive thanks, Jack. Would a 35mm still works?
Film or lens? Yes, the lens could work, but you're going to have to be right behind the baseline, near the basket.
Lens. Many thanks again.
Do you ever like shooting in aperature priority mode? I find my shots come out brighter using that mode rather than picking my settings in manual mode. Can you also share with focus mode you use? Ai servo? One shot?
I rarely use aperture priority and then only in bright daylight. In poor light I much prefer to control the shutter and aperture and let ISO go auto.
@@JackBeasleyMedia thank you
Hi Jack, what is your recommended settings for basketball team photos?
Do you mean during the game? I'd start at 1/1000 sec, f2.8, and whatever ISO you need for the light.
@@JackBeasleyMedia I mean like team photos. before or after the game.
I have 50mm 1.8 and 55-250stm 4.5-5.6
Think I could pull it off with the 55-250?
Not unless you’re at a park basketball court in bright sunshine. Otherwise, I’d sit behind the baseline, just outside the lane, and catch all the action under the basket with that 50mm.
Don't forget the old gold 80-200 f2.8 which is just as good as the 70-200 and they go for a lot less used . also certain shutter speed will be effected by the lighting keep out of the 60 multiples of the 60hz of the old high pressure sodium lights you can shoot on a nice budget with say a used d700 and 80-200 and always do a PRE white balance when you arrive
I had to sell my 80-200/2.8. It wasn’t sharp enough on my D850’s 45mp sensor. I haven’t had the same problem with newer Nikon 70-200/2.8.
@@JackBeasleyMedia I can see that as an issue I don't own a 850 I only have Z50, D7500, D700, D4S
Jack what focal settings do use? Do you use different one for football and basketball? I do use back button focus. And still have not complety mastered it yet.
Since I using a zoom for basketball, I’m using the full range - around 28mm all the way to 200mm. For football, I use a 200-500/5.6 during daylight and a 70-200 and 400/2.8 at night.
Thanks, what about the AF-Mode? Where do you get the best focus? Some say group.
I use group or 9-point on my Nikons
@@JackBeasleyMedia thanks so much
Nice job. Not only have I had players fall on me I have had to push refs away so they won't trip on me. Most of the gyms I shoot at have barely enough room for me to sit near the basket while keeping my feet of of the court. It's another sport you need to pay attention to everything around you.
Thanks! I have gyms where the wall is 20 feet back from the court, and others where there is barely three feet of room. Either way, I always expect someone to fall on me!
Im new in sports photography how do you follow the players in basketball to get a good shot on the players? And also is it ok to use 17-50mm? Nikon d5300 user here
Yes, I follow the player with the ball and then switch players when the ball is passed. Also, that zoom range is pretty short for basketball. A good all-around lens for a crop frame camera would be in the 50-135 range (or there abouts).
What setting do you always use so that you can captured the player? Last night some of my shoot is blurred i hope i will improve in this kind if photography
@@mharkzkee For team sports, I tend to use the D-9 AF setting in my D5. It was the same in my D850. I'd move the focus point up to about eye level in the viewfinder in both horizontal and vertical positions.
Honestly a larger version would be a cool poster to buy and hang on the wall.
I have a 58 mm with 4.0 f stop is that good for the pictures
It'll be OK just outside the lane, behind the basket. That f4 may push your ISOs pretty high, however.
Can you help me? I am getting back into shooting high school basketball for the first time in almost 10 years. I have a Canon EF 85mm f/1.4L IS USM that I want to shoot with mainly because of the sharpness of the 1.4 fs. My question is, I shot my first game last night and I had some trouble locating a good spot to shoot with my 85mm. I just could not get good shots and the full body of the players in my shots as they were driving to the basket, of course because of my lens as a 85mm I need a little more backup room for me to get my subjects full body in the shot. I want to get as close to the action as I can so the bleachers are not an option for me. The gyms I'll be shooting in are smaller gyms in classes of mostly 1A, 2A in Iowa. Do you have any suggestions or advice that you could give me? I also shoot standing up, should I be sitting down on the floor and shooting? Thanks!
Yes, you should be sitting down. Also, have tried right around the three point line, behind the baseline? If that’s still too tight, move closer to the outside.
I also have the same Len and I’m having the same problem you once had can you tell me where you shoot at on the court and I don’t sit on the floor I guess I’m gon have to but what settings you use for shooting basketball thank you the information would be helpful it really would have a nice one
what do you think about using a 24-105 f4?
As far as focal length, it's fine. However, you will be looking at some very high ISOs if you're shooting at the recommended 1/1000 sec shutter speed. F2.8 lenses are better, if you can afford them.
@@JackBeasleyMedia Thanks!
Do photogs use strobes at high school basketball games?
Not really, anymore. Modern cameras handle poor lighting pretty well. I occasionally see them used at pro basketball arenas (lights in the ceilings).
I have found in post that the "Tungsten" setting clears up the white balance. But there is no "Tungsten" setting on the D850 menu. To save time editing, what's the closest setting to Tungsten, or do you know what the closest manual setting is? Seems like it's about 3200, I think. Any ideas?
Lightroom says it’s 2850
@@JackBeasleyMedia thank you so much for replying. I appreciate it. I'll set it at around 2850 then.
You know... As a professional sports photographer I know all of these tips and tricks but I still watch every video and stay through the whole thing, 1. to help other creators with ad revenue as well but 2. just to see what info we’re giving to newcomers to the business!
Thanks for watching! My audience is primarily new or relatively new sports photographers, but it’s interesting hearing from the pros out there.
I'm also pro college sports photographer. I watched the whole video too and the one on football. It's still interesting to watch videos just to make sure I'm not missing anything.
Also you using a continuous shutter?
Oh yes
1/1000, 2.8, at 6400 ISO? I wish my local gyms were that "poorly" lit!
Umh ... wow
This doesn’t work for the games that I record. We are not allowed to stand anywhere near the Outabounds line so I can’t get under the net or in that corner per se have to back up closer to the stands
Interesting - at what level? I’ve been able to sit a few feet back from the baseline at every level of play - grade school up to the NBA.
Nikon does not recommend using anti-flicker on the mirrorless cameras if you are shooting in H+ (12-14fps). Since I usually use H+ for all sports, I tend not to use anti-flicker and just live with those anomoly shots.
Can you point me to that reference that says they don’t recommend anti flicker for HE files?
@@JackBeasleyMedia Page 290 of Nikon's manual for the Z6ii / Z7ii states that anti-flicker is disabled when the camera is set to H+. Page 361 of David Busch's book for the Z6ii/Z7ii puts it slightly differently but just says it's not effective rather than it just doesn't work.
Yes, I forgot about the Z6ii issue with it not being used in certain modes. And I also did see effectiveness issues using a Z6ii (part of the reason I sold mine). But with other Nikon cameras, I really haven't had an issue. My frame rates in the Z9, D5, and D850 all sounded very similar whether I had antiflicker turned on or not. There are times it fails, but those have been in mixed or particularly horrendous lighting environments.
@@JackBeasleyMedia I know that Z6ii is not in the same class as the Z9 but at this stage of my photo journey, it's a matter of less effective anti-flicker and $3600 still in my pocket v. great anti-flicker and $3600 in the hands of my friendly camera store. Overall, I'm happy with the Z6ii - something I couldn't really say with the Z6. The D5 and D850 are out of consideration now since I'm fully committed to Z glass.
I shoot a Canon 7D (no Mark) with a 17-55 2.8 and I still struggle with grain. Obviously I need a mentor. I've tried several tips and tricks from several youtubers and, in my opinion, my photos still suck. Not the getting the shot or composition. I get great shots. It just always boils down to grain. My in camera meter says everything is fine. At ISO 5000, f2.8 @ 1/640 for example and the in camera meter is near the middle (0), shooting both in RAW and JPG, and when I get home, upload the images they are too dark. I'm at a complete loss as to why. I have to raise them a stop or 2 usually and then the grain is so obvious the picture is, well, it sucks. Or, the lighting seems fine, but again, too much grain. I mean, it's usable, I just don't like it. I shoot primarily at the high school that my wife works at for free and everyone says that they love the photos, but I want to give them something better that just OK. I may just be ranting, but I need help.
Thank you for the great video. Unfortunately, basketball season is over now, so I'll have to wait till the next school year to try again.
Thanks for the comment. First, I would say to experiment in similar lighting conditions, outside a game environment, and see what results you get. At least you won't have to wait a full year. Second, know that you're using a crop sensor camera and those generally don't do as well in low-light conditions as full-frame cameras. Third, I don't know how you are processing your images, but I like to use Topaz Denoise for my noise reduction. You might also want to shoot in jpg with in-camera noise reduction.
@@JackBeasleyMedia Thank you for your reply. After watching a few other videos on the topic of shooting sport indoor and outside, I'm beginning to think that it's very possible that I have once again outgrown my equipment. I completely understand the exposure triangle and am constantly making adjustments. I'm beginning to think that the crop sensor is my downfall. When I first started shooting sports, it was mainly baseball and football (little league) which was primarily in daylight. It wasn't until my son started playing in middle/high school that the games began to be more in the evening. Recently, however, I've been shooting the sports at the school that my wife works at and nothing has frustrated me more than indoor volley ball and basketball. I do all my post in photoshop. I just could never grasp lightroom. Again, your advice is very helpful and appreciated. Thank you.
go to the point, too much talking
Thanks for your input!