@@L2SFBC Clear, concise, to the point, practical, and no flash or silliness. I just respond to data over 'entertainment' much better when I'm learning something.
Thank you im waiting for my hilux and I plan on some adventures I've been watching so many videos to learn recovery techniques and this video has been most helpful. Really enjoyed this video. Thank you
Great info thanks! The small tips you give are the difference between something working or not. I know you are a proponent of 4 ramps, but I only carry 2 mainly for weight minimisation - it’d be interesting to see a video proving that 4 really are worth it :-).
No, I haven't. I'm not a fan of ground anchors in general. Never owned one, but used a few. The problem I find is either that the ground is too hard for the anchor to dig in, or soft enough for the anchor to dig it and then it won't hold. There are only 3 things I think necessary for a sand recovery and I go over them here -> ruclips.net/video/ZayK3Tq0L3Q/видео.html
hi, would you prefer the Maxtrax befor the classic Aluminum panels? My experience is that the MT are often too short and the alu with 1,5m are better for my Pinzgauer 6x6. But the MT are much lighter. So what would you suggest me. I intend to take on the Panamericana?
I've been seeing alot of the trax mounted on vehicles exposed to day to day sunlight. Do the trax cheap and priced quality, become affected by sun ,heat, uv actually hold up to actual use ?
Could the ramps also be used to sweep the top layer of sand by grabbing them from the side and using the other side as a sweeping wedge? Sometimes the surface layer hides a deeper, wetter and more compact layer; of course, this is something that depends a lot on the type of sand and also on the time of day, on the hours that the sun may have been drying the surface layer. What I am looking for is to extend the mommentum as possible on the path ahead of the vehicle once we have left the ramps behind. Be that as it may, I appreciate the scientific and great common sense way in which you analyze material, situations and techniques.
Not really, no. The best thing to do is to smooth the way forwards. Part of the reason I was bogged was because of all the criss-crossing ruts. This greatly increases rolling resistance, and also de-stabiilises the car. So, if a shovel was used to smooth the way, that'd help. Also, ruts can be used to tramline the car so it steers around corners. I might cover those techniques next time I'm at the beach.
Hello, Robert. Thanks for this video, sharing your knowledge. In reference to your comment that lowering pressures must be done after having placed the ramps under the wheels, I want to ask a question: let's imagine that, when we got stuck, we already had the wheels with pressures as low as possible. Would it be convenient to raise the pressures before digging under the wheels, then place the ramps and, later, lower the pressures again? I don't know if it's a crazy idea just in the case pressures were already down before getting stuck.
No I would just push the ramps under in that case. Generally I like to run at higher pressures than minimum eg 14psi with the option for 10 and then reinflate after.
It seems like I'm more common thought in places outside of the USA is that narrow tires work better which in some cases they do and they are better less unsprung weight and easier to move but I'm telling you I've experienced on my Discovery 11.5 wide tires are way better in sand and the whole concept of drag I don't even notice it in my disco isn't a muscle car by any means but I'm just saying the whole drag Theory I don't think you noticed much as much as it floats over the sand and helps you make it better. I know with a powerful V8 and 12.5 wide tires you can really fly right over the sand but my point is that the drag Theory really isn't true from what I've experienced they just float over it instead of digging in like Skinny's
It will be my first time 4wd tomorrow on the beach so this extra information really helps. Do tyre pressures depend on the wheel and tyre size or just the conditions? I was practicing with my deflator and compressor today and the tyres had a huge bulge at only 18psi. Iam new to this as mentioned. Will actually be trying Preston beach! Great channel BTW.
@@L2SFBC how about multiple uses between Sand-ladder and the Maxtrax? Not only Sand-ladder use it for recovery, they also can be use as bridge for gap and incline
@@notjohnwick007 If it is a proper ladder-type, then it really depends upon the rung spacing. Something like 5-1/2 ft. (1700 mm) long by 13 in (330 mm) wide with 6 in (150 mm) high sides and a 5-1/2 in. (140 mm) rung spacing would work fairly well even for minor bridging and could be made very cheaply if it's made from steel. Aircraft grade aluminium would be a lot lighter and just as good, if expensive. If the rungs are any wider apart then the tyres won't be resting on two rungs at any one time, meaning that the drivetrain is being shock loaded between each rung and also it won't spread the load very well. The perforated steel plate type similar to that used to make makeshift runways just bend, are extremely heavy and really not very practical. Again, these are also available in aluminium, but quite why people still insist on loading themselves down with these I've no idea. It's the same thing with the glass fibre "waffle boards" that for so long have been de rigueur in the UK, they're heavy and just leaf sharp splinters in your hands if you don't wear gloves. Certainly in the UK, the only other plastic type that's any good apart from Maxtrax is the US ActionTrax. All of the others break eventually.
G-Day Robert, Great demo, I love your no bull approach and simple to follow attitude. But I have to ask, you didn't have your lockers on, can you explain why please.
Hands down, the best series of 4WD tutorials on you tube. Thank you for quality information every single time.
Wow, thanks!
This is a great tutorial. Heading to Ningaloo for 2 weeks of beach camping soon so this lesson is invaluable.
MadMatt brought me here....EXCELLENT channel
Thanks Tracy, what do you find good about it?
@@L2SFBC Clear, concise, to the point, practical, and no flash or silliness. I just respond to data over 'entertainment' much better when I'm learning something.
Thank you im waiting for my hilux and I plan on some adventures I've been watching so many videos to learn recovery techniques and this video has been most helpful. Really enjoyed this video. Thank you
That was the best description of using traction ramps ever. Thanks Robert.
Agree!! I arrived Robert Pepper´s channel thanks to Mad Matt channel and I immediately subscribed with the very first video I saw
Thank you for taking your time to teach us... I feel very comfortable recovering myself with your teaching. 🔥🔥🔥🤙🤙
Another brilliant explanation. Clear concise and no fluff. Thank you!
Oh, I just bought your 4WD glovebox book. Cant wait to get it.
Cheers!🍻👍🤠🇦🇺
Thank you!
Best video on proper use . Subscribed
Thanks for the sub!
Thanks Robert, great demonstration. I haven’t used my maxtraxs despite 12yrs of ownership...must try harder 😁
The day you leave them behind...
EXCELLENT. I LEARNT a LOT.
10/10.
GREAT work. Very Much APPRECIATED.
Glad you enjoyed it!
thank you for your detail video
Very informative. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Great info thanks! The small tips you give are the difference between something working or not. I know you are a proponent of 4 ramps, but I only carry 2 mainly for weight minimisation - it’d be interesting to see a video proving that 4 really are worth it :-).
Ok maybe I'll do a 4 vs 2 to prove it! Thanks for the comment 😁
Thanks
Very interesting 👍🏻
Thanks, please share :-)
This was a really helpful video. If you only have 2 MaxTrax which wheels should you position them under? Thanks -
Generally the front wheels as then the rear wheels run over them too.
Thanks for the info. New to the channel (thanks MadMatt!). Have you done anything using Danforth anchors in sand recovery?
No, I haven't. I'm not a fan of ground anchors in general. Never owned one, but used a few. The problem I find is either that the ground is too hard for the anchor to dig in, or soft enough for the anchor to dig it and then it won't hold.
There are only 3 things I think necessary for a sand recovery and I go over them here -> ruclips.net/video/ZayK3Tq0L3Q/видео.html
hi, would you prefer the Maxtrax befor the classic Aluminum panels? My experience is that the MT are often too short and the alu with 1,5m are better for my Pinzgauer 6x6. But the MT are much lighter. So what would you suggest me. I intend to take on the Panamericana?
Pros and cons..if you can take the panels and they also work in mud, use them if you have space.
I've been seeing alot of the trax mounted on vehicles exposed to day to day sunlight. Do the trax cheap and priced quality, become affected by sun ,heat, uv actually hold up to actual use ?
Mine have been fine for years
Could the ramps also be used to sweep the top layer of sand by grabbing them from the side and using the other side as a sweeping wedge? Sometimes the surface layer hides a deeper, wetter and more compact layer; of course, this is something that depends a lot on the type of sand and also on the time of day, on the hours that the sun may have been drying the surface layer. What I am looking for is to extend the mommentum as possible on the path ahead of the vehicle once we have left the ramps behind.
Be that as it may, I appreciate the scientific and great common sense way in which you analyze material, situations and techniques.
Not really, no. The best thing to do is to smooth the way forwards. Part of the reason I was bogged was because of all the criss-crossing ruts. This greatly increases rolling resistance, and also de-stabiilises the car. So, if a shovel was used to smooth the way, that'd help. Also, ruts can be used to tramline the car so it steers around corners. I might cover those techniques next time I'm at the beach.
Hello, Robert. Thanks for this video, sharing your knowledge.
In reference to your comment that lowering pressures must be done after having placed the ramps under the wheels, I want to ask a question: let's imagine that, when we got stuck, we already had the wheels with pressures as low as possible. Would it be convenient to raise the pressures before digging under the wheels, then place the ramps and, later, lower the pressures again? I don't know if it's a crazy idea just in the case pressures were already down before getting stuck.
No I would just push the ramps under in that case. Generally I like to run at higher pressures than minimum eg 14psi with the option for 10 and then reinflate after.
It seems like I'm more common thought in places outside of the USA is that narrow tires work better which in some cases they do and they are better less unsprung weight and easier to move but I'm telling you I've experienced on my Discovery 11.5 wide tires are way better in sand and the whole concept of drag I don't even notice it in my disco isn't a muscle car by any means but I'm just saying the whole drag Theory I don't think you noticed much as much as it floats over the sand and helps you make it better. I know with a powerful V8 and 12.5 wide tires you can really fly right over the sand but my point is that the drag Theory really isn't true from what I've experienced they just float over it instead of digging in like Skinny's
It will be my first time 4wd tomorrow on the beach so this extra information really helps. Do tyre pressures depend on the wheel and tyre size or just the conditions? I was practicing with my deflator and compressor today and the tyres had a huge bulge at only 18psi. Iam new to this as mentioned. Will actually be trying Preston beach! Great channel BTW.
Pressures depend on a bunch of things including vehicle weight, tyre aspect ratio and more. What vehicle are you driving?
@@L2SFBC 2012 hilux sr5 with stock wheels 17 inch and Cooper at3 tyres
Start at 18psi and if you have difficulty drop to 15 straight away. Where is Preston Beach?
@@L2SFBC South of Perth, thanks for your help and quick reply.
Could you do this for mud??
Yes at some point.
Questions: Are Sand-ladder better than Maxtrax?
For what purpose?
@@L2SFBC let's say in sand/beach, or overall performance Sand-ladder vs Maxtrax
Maxtrax. Reason being that Maxtrax are better designed to grip tyres. They are also lighter smaller and easier to store.
@@L2SFBC how about multiple uses between Sand-ladder and the Maxtrax? Not only Sand-ladder use it for recovery, they also can be use as bridge for gap and incline
@@notjohnwick007 If it is a proper ladder-type, then it really depends upon the rung spacing. Something like 5-1/2 ft. (1700 mm) long by 13 in (330 mm) wide with 6 in (150 mm) high sides and a 5-1/2 in. (140 mm) rung spacing would work fairly well even for minor bridging and could be made very cheaply if it's made from steel. Aircraft grade aluminium would be a lot lighter and just as good, if expensive. If the rungs are any wider apart then the tyres won't be resting on two rungs at any one time, meaning that the drivetrain is being shock loaded between each rung and also it won't spread the load very well. The perforated steel plate type similar to that used to make makeshift runways just bend, are extremely heavy and really not very practical. Again, these are also available in aluminium, but quite why people still insist on loading themselves down with these I've no idea. It's the same thing with the glass fibre "waffle boards" that for so long have been de rigueur in the UK, they're heavy and just leaf sharp splinters in your hands if you don't wear gloves. Certainly in the UK, the only other plastic type that's any good apart from Maxtrax is the US ActionTrax. All of the others break eventually.
Q13
?
G-Day Robert, Great demo, I love your no bull approach and simple to follow attitude. But I have to ask, you didn't have your lockers on, can you explain why please.
No need for them in that situation
@@L2SFBC So your relying on the front wheels only to Pull you out as apposed to all 4 wheel slowly moving at once.
This just too much
how so?