Hey I just wanted to ask did this seem to fix the problem my van 2011 caravan has been to the shop four times now and it keeps happening ill show him this video
Привет, у меня пришли все те же ошибки, сегодня разобрал барабан лоу и увидел все тоже самое что у тебя, спасибо твоему видео из-за него я туда и полез)
That appears to translate as, "Hello, I got all the same errors, today I dismantled the low drum and saw everything is the same as yours, thank you video because of him I climbed there" You're very welcome, I'm glad you were able to find the problem.
As shown in the video (make sure to look at Part 1 too) it can be done with the transmission still in the vehicle. If you can safely get it jacked up, you can do it at home. We put tens of thousands of miles on the van before we sold it, and the transmission worked flawlessly.
Thanks! I'm seeing the same symptoms and error codes on my wife's T&C. So did you buy a new 2"nut? Do you have to deform (stake) the nut once it's installed or does it come pre-deformed?
Looking to start my replacement soon, just ordered the compounder. Any tips to remove that huge 2" nut without a heavy duty air tool? How difficult was that nut? The most I have which can be used is a long wrench/breaker bar or a 7.5Amp impact wrench tool with about 240ft-lb of torque
The nut was no problem, but I think my gun peaks at 1200 ft-lbs in reverse. I'm not sure how difficult removing it by hand would be. My first instinct would be to try cutting a hardwood wedge just the right size to jam between the gears. If that wasn't working well, maybe a wedge on top between the gears, and a wedge on the bottom, with a bar clamp jamming them towards each other and into the gears. If hardwood doesn't grab well enough, a softwood would grab better (but might chip out easier).
I have pieces of metal in the filter. It drives only in first gear and in reverse gear it rides and slips a little. Code p075a,p0734,p0736,p0792. what to do?
Sorry I didn't see this sooner. With metal in the filter, you're not likely to have a simple fix like this leaky seal. There are probably some hard parts worn out inside. It depends on whether or not the shavings were ferrous.
Is it a tight fit to get the three 8mm bolts off the top of the componder pan ? Im working on a dodge avenger 3.6l and i noticed frame of vehicle and top motor mounts of transmission. There is no way to even squeeze fingers in between.
I don't recall any difficulty accessing those bolts, but I imagine it could be quite different in an Avenger. Sometimes on other cars, I've had to pop off a couple engine/trans mounts to lower the assembly an inch or two to gain access to transmission components. Good luck!
by the way, i saw the same thing...looks like rings in the grooves were fine, there was a little play but not a lot. But I did see the rubber looking like it was damaged
I'm not sure if I remember how I did it. On one transmission I've worked on, I used an exhaust coupler that I cut large windows in for access to snap rings. It might've been this transmission. I've got a pretty big vise I might've used, or sometimes things can just be muscled back together. I'm glad you found a damaged seal, it's great to have an explanation for things!
Thanks! The damaged seal was causing an internal hydraulic leak in that clutch assembly. The leak caused lower pressure and reduced clamping force, which allowed slippage. The slippage allows the two speed sensors to see signals that disagree with each other, so then the TCU declares that the sensors are bad, but that was not the case.
Sorry I didn't see your comment before. I replaced the piston with the bad seal, and the transmission has run flawlessly for 10k miles now! Another commenter, Stephen, fixed his family's van as well.
Wow great job I admire your confidence to disassemble the 62. Happy this turned out well.
Thanks!
It is a great video. I am still learning it before I actually try it. Thanks for the detailed description.
Hello friend, I have a very similar problem, and I want to quote the spare parts. What is the name or part number 203?
Hey I just wanted to ask did this seem to fix the problem my van 2011 caravan has been to the shop four times now and it keeps happening ill show him this video
Yep, 25k miles later it's still going strong.
Привет, у меня пришли все те же ошибки, сегодня разобрал барабан лоу и увидел все тоже самое что у тебя, спасибо твоему видео из-за него я туда и полез)
Я пока ещё не собрал все обратно, но надеюсь это решит мою проблему p0792 p0733 p0734 p1790
That appears to translate as, "Hello, I got all the same errors, today I dismantled the low drum and saw everything is the same as yours, thank you video because of him I climbed there"
You're very welcome, I'm glad you were able to find the problem.
@@TheEscolizardкак решил проблему?
I have pieces of metal in the filter. It drives only in first gear and in reverse gear it rides and slips a little.
Code p075a,p0734,p0736,p0792.
Hey im having the same issue shop told me needed a new trans. So for backyard mechanic is it something i can do. And did it fix the problem.
As shown in the video (make sure to look at Part 1 too) it can be done with the transmission still in the vehicle. If you can safely get it jacked up, you can do it at home. We put tens of thousands of miles on the van before we sold it, and the transmission worked flawlessly.
Do you have to change compounder? Do you have to pull clutch please lmk thank you
Thanks! I'm seeing the same symptoms and error codes on my wife's T&C. So did you buy a new 2"nut? Do you have to deform (stake) the nut once it's installed or does it come pre-deformed?
If I remember right, I just re-staked the old nut. I am fairly cheap...
Still going strong 15k later!
So did this fix the codes
@@CHEAPROLLIN yes it did !
Looking to start my replacement soon, just ordered the compounder. Any tips to remove that huge 2" nut without a heavy duty air tool? How difficult was that nut?
The most I have which can be used is a long wrench/breaker bar or a 7.5Amp impact wrench tool with about 240ft-lb of torque
The nut was no problem, but I think my gun peaks at 1200 ft-lbs in reverse. I'm not sure how difficult removing it by hand would be. My first instinct would be to try cutting a hardwood wedge just the right size to jam between the gears. If that wasn't working well, maybe a wedge on top between the gears, and a wedge on the bottom, with a bar clamp jamming them towards each other and into the gears. If hardwood doesn't grab well enough, a softwood would grab better (but might chip out easier).
So was that seal part of the compounder
I have pieces of metal in the filter. It drives only in first gear and in reverse gear it rides and slips a little.
Code p075a,p0734,p0736,p0792.
what to do?
Sorry I didn't see this sooner. With metal in the filter, you're not likely to have a simple fix like this leaky seal. There are probably some hard parts worn out inside. It depends on whether or not the shavings were ferrous.
Is it a tight fit to get the three 8mm bolts off the top of the componder pan ? Im working on a dodge avenger 3.6l and i noticed frame of vehicle and top motor mounts of transmission. There is no way to even squeeze fingers in between.
I don't recall any difficulty accessing those bolts, but I imagine it could be quite different in an Avenger. Sometimes on other cars, I've had to pop off a couple engine/trans mounts to lower the assembly an inch or two to gain access to transmission components. Good luck!
So how did you get the spring plate thing back in? Looks like Gary used a press....wondering if you had any other method, since i dont have a press...
by the way, i saw the same thing...looks like rings in the grooves were fine, there was a little play but not a lot. But I did see the rubber looking like it was damaged
I'm not sure if I remember how I did it. On one transmission I've worked on, I used an exhaust coupler that I cut large windows in for access to snap rings. It might've been this transmission. I've got a pretty big vise I might've used, or sometimes things can just be muscled back together.
I'm glad you found a damaged seal, it's great to have an explanation for things!
Did you remove trs sensor
Thank you for video
Great job what was causing codes?
Thanks! The damaged seal was causing an internal hydraulic leak in that clutch assembly. The leak caused lower pressure and reduced clamping force, which allowed slippage. The slippage allows the two speed sensors to see signals that disagree with each other, so then the TCU declares that the sensors are bad, but that was not the case.
I have the same problem with my 2011 Routan
I have the same issue
I have questions
How to find the diagram like you have there
Thank you
I believe I did a Google search for ATSG 62TE pdf. If you can't find it let me know, and I can do some more digging.
@@CheapskateGarage Thank you
Yes it is a great video my question is What was the outcom of the proyec ?
????
Sorry I didn't see your comment before. I replaced the piston with the bad seal, and the transmission has run flawlessly for 10k miles now! Another commenter, Stephen, fixed his family's van as well.
Grate video thanks for Sharing, I have p1745 line pressure to high any idea what be the problem, Your help will be greatly appreciate it
What was it?
I have the same fault codes but they only occur in manual shift gearbox mode, when I put it in normal Drive mode the fault codes don't occur.
That's odd. Does the transmission get forced into limp mode as well?
grazie
Prego
????