593 RSW BROKE NECK J Ford Mandolin - Part 1
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 26 ноя 2024
- This is a challenge to any luthier. It took me a while to get a clear method of operations in my mind before I felt confident tackling it. Hope you enjoy!
Support: / rosastringworks
Website: www.rosastring...
Always good content but my thought for today is ----- Emeri is a treasure !
I have been playing about five hours a week since you repaired it and it is still holding plus sounding good. Thanks again for doing your thing for my mandolin. Hope to jam with you at Starvy Creek.
Hi Dutch.. Guess me suggesting the stinger idea is mute... as you have it back in hand. Guess we'll set back and see how it plays out. But we now know it's playable. 🙂
Now that’s a challenge!
You’re exactly right. I build and fix guitar amps. Sometimes if I have a problem,the solution will come to me seemingly out of the blue while doing something completely different. Until the correct dendrites connect in the brain,the answer to a unique problem will remain elusive. Sometimes SLEEP is the best way to solve a problem!
The customer definitely picked the right guy to fix this mandolin!
Always love seeing "part one" on a video. Multi parts are the best. Love your work.
What a challenge !
I knew you would use maple, it worked so well on the last one. It looked great too, it was that curly stuff and gave that mandolin character. I think it is going to look great on this one too, because of the look of that wood on the soundboard and back, of course the strength is what you are looking for. They did pick the right guy to fix it.
Fifty years of forestry agrees with you on wood integrity.
Scary repair but as usual, as you work through it it gets less and less scary. Can’t wait for part 2. Thanks!
`You are correct about the truss rod. As an example, the highway overpass, and other concrete beams are made of "pre-stresssed concrete". What that means is that there are wire ropes (popularly called cables) or long solid rods under tension imbedded in the concrete. This causes the concrete beam to press back against a load. This is how large overpasses and other large concrete structures can be built. Think of it as a taut bowstring. If the string is just tied across the ends of the bow it will not resist being pressed. But when the string is tensioned, it will resist a load and return to it's at rest position when the load is removed.
A truss rod made of spring tempered steel installed so that each end can be tightened after installation thus pre-stressing the neck. When a bendinng force is applied, the rod will resist and remain straight.
A bent rod with the bent portion placed in the direction of the force would be the same except it will resist only in the one direction.
This is such a great project! It's a huge job which I enjoy, and it's such a unique and beautiful mandolin, and it's very special to Dutch.
The bigger the mess an instrument is, the more entertaining the video. So this will be a nice one! I am looking forward to part 2.
What an incredible challenge. It is amazing how difficult it is to repair a string instrument. And I cannot even imagine how hard it is to maintain the sound. I don't envy you. I do, however, enjoy watching you work - thanks so much.
Quite the challenge, Jerry. This should be an amazing fix.
Major reconstructive surgery
(Great work, Emeri!)
You need to be born an Eoden like Lt.Erickson, replacement navigator for the starship Enterprise, to have 3 arms and hands.
You DO have your work cut out for you with this repair job! I know you'll do a great job and look forward to part two.
I suspect that the epoxy on the head end of the truss rod was a byproduct of a previous repair rather than a manufacturer decision.
I wonder if pulling the truss rod and replacing it with a carbon fiber rod would help strengthen the neck. It would fill the gap effectively and reinforce the repair.
Perhaps the splines didn't extend far enough into the headstock area? Just judging by other similar repairs that use splines.
Morning Jerry. I know you have more than likely already picked your wood for the repair. But I think if it was me doing the repair. I would use Hickory or Osage orange.
Jerry. What about putting the maple splint on and making it beautiful as hell.
It’s part of its history so make it part of its history, and beautiful with it.
I love the way the top looks. Curious how it compares in sound.
Jerry, I'm waiting to see of you put the truss rod back in, or replace it with
a piece of snug fitting (end to end ) maple.
Watching Trena at John's Furniture repair will show how very useful some of the stains and toners CAN be in hiding repair work. Tom Johnson's Antique Furniture Restoration uses some of the same products which also gives him good blending of patched in wood. These are products made for wood and made for exactly what you find yourself doing all the time. Blending new wood into existing. Most are Mohawk brand.
Matching colors would be easy if I were NOT 100% color blind.
The back and neck look like Sycamore to me. Some of the 60's Vox guitar necks were made from Sycamore, but that's about the only place I can recall seeing it used as a tonewood.
I have built 5 with sycamore. Doesn't look like sycamore at all to me.
Jerry... yep strength first and foremost. But I think you could make a quick pattern from say a file folder to put those Stinger lines back on. Small vee chisel or line gouge would do it no time at all... or if not that at least paint or stain the stinger back on. It's cosmetic I know... but adds to the overall look.
Look forward to seeing the chop and glue up on this one.
I use a box end carburator wrench on all Gibson type truss rod nuts.
That wouldn't fit in this one.
Is that different than what they used to call ignition (tiny) wrenches?
@@TKevinBlanc I remember them being called carburetor wrenches.The craftsman brand being very common.
I cannot wait for Part 2!
Hey Jerry, I wonder if your heater would be less cumbersome if the handle was rotated 90 degrees so it is over the power cable coming into the aluminum block. That way it would be more balanced???
Did you try the palate knives used on bakery and cake decoration ? They seem to be sturdier than the ones used on arts...
That might be. It was too long ago.
Such an odd looking wood, the pores don't look like sycamore. I'm guessing Teak or possibly Koa?
The front is cedar
You are brillant Jerry!
In regard to having a a third hand, the shop I used to work at had a cushioned vice that had free moving clamps so the angle could change to fit whats being clamped. that was incredibly useful for holding instruments at an angle so you could work on it without having to hold it in place or worry about it moving around on a flat surface, just pop it in and clamp it on the heal and it'll hold the thing down pretty good. think it was from stew mac but I could be wrong
You have to cut your truss rod slot with a slight dip in the middle. There is a trick to it. I have jigs that cut the top filler strip with a hump in the middle so a truss rod is set into the neck with a forced front bow in it. Tightening it up forces the neck into a gradual back bow. I will put mold release, paste wax or other wax around the threads & wrap the rest of the rod in polyolefin heat shrink tubing or wrap it in plumber's Teflon tape. Teflon tape works well up by the threads too. I'd have used flame maple for a skinny little mandolin neck. "IF" I did use mahogany or cedar I'd put carbon fiber or 40 years ago an aluminum U channel in the neck. The U channel would have curve in it too, thanks to a Healy arc welder. Mahogany & most walnuts are rather soft for hardwoods.
Maybe the pins were originally set low, but lifted with the removal. Have you never thought to make a simple adjustable jig to hold the instrument whilst you work on it? How about making another heating element that's about 8" long(or longer), just for work on fret/finger boards. Just a few ideas that I thought may help.
Guess what? I have 3 or 4 jigs. Guess what? I spend all my time putting them in and taking them out of the jig. I work too fast. Constantly turning the instrument different directions. It it were better, I would do it.
Bedankt
I was looking for something similar to your palette knife, and found a cake decorating spatula that was similar thickness and size. Found it on Amazon.
You´ve just fixed a real pain in the neck
Might try an icing knife for cakes instead of a palette knife...could be stiffer.
Too thick for this work.
Why don't these neck builders at the factories employ a 'scarf joint' when they assemble the head stock to the neck blank. Yes, I know it takes three or four times the amount of work, but it would save a ton of more time for future repair folks as yourself. Just an observation, Jerry. Bob
Jerry, who made those stripping pliers? Kinda looks like Crescent. Need a new pair, always look for things that multi task & those look particularly handy. Appreciate your time.
There is a link to them on my website. Products I Use Tab.
I vote walnut back.
dont think so
Jerry, It’d be quicker, stronger, and be better all around if you make an entirely new neck out of maple. Use the old neck as a mold to model the new neck, and scrap the old neck! Hey from Bill in frozen Mn.
nope
You might consider a carbon fiber insert vs. replacing the truss rod in that narrow and fragile neck once you make the repair. A CF rod would aid in composite neck strength and negate the need for any adjustment, post repair.
(*truss rod)
@@daveogarf: Obviously, you understood what he meant and so did everyone else, so why correct him?
@@zapa1pnt No offense taken. For that short, fragile and narrow a neck, a truss rod seems to have been a negative factor. Question for all, could carbon fiber inserts eliminate the need for truss rods in most string instruments? The metal rod installed in this neck was non-functional and may have contributed to the weakness and breaks.
I am not a fan of CF. There is a lot of hype on that stuff, but to me it is very brittle and not all it is purported to be.
I have a feeling you might have taken the fretboard off and truss rod out when you did it before actually.
What a mess
Did you ask them how it broke? If it broke when just being under tension, that would imply the splices weren't strong enough. But if it broke from being dropped, that would imply just simply being mistreated, and re-doing the splices might be fine.
the whole area was in splinters
Great stuff! Some day I want to take a whack at making a F style oval holed Mandolin. Thanks! 😎
The oval sound hole will give you more of a European/Italian sound, rather than a Bluegrass sound.
Only a slight difference, but it's there. Just sayin'.
@@zapa1pnt Yep!
When you make the maple part of the neck, will it have a volute?
Maybe... what is a volute? LOL
@@RosaStringWorks Maybe I'm using the wrong word, but it's a bump out of wood where the neck meets the peg head in order to strengthen the area where the trussrod is adjusted. Gibson did this for a while when their Les Paul peg heads kept breaking off.
offset spatula at cooking store probably more rigid
I have a couple of those. They are way thicker than you think.
That can be a real problem, doing this kind of thing. BTDT
You might be right.
I love watching you work, but why don't you have a jig to hold the instruments?
I would spend all my time putting it in and out of the jig. I work too fast for that. Constantly turning the instrument in different directions.
To me your palette knife looks like a small Straight Baking spatula for spreading Cake icing
His palette knife is much thinner, than a cake spatula.
I have a couple spats and they are too thick, for this work.
It very well might be. It was so long ago I can't remember.
?????Jerry are you busting buttons on that cute little colt that was just born. Are you and the wife baby sitting while Jr and family are at the horse show for the week. Are you checking him out as you previously trained stallions back out in the day.
He is a real cutie
The truss rod actually made that neck a steel reinforced neck, not adjustable.
Not even that. If that was the case, it probably wouldn't have broken.
@@zapa1pnt I'm fairly sure more than a few people have broken the head stocks off more than a few instruments with steel reinforced necks. The steel rod or bar was there to prevent the neck from bowing, not to prevent the neck from breaking.
What in the world did the owner do to this mandolin , to get it in that shape ?
It wasn't really the owner but the maker.
He chose mahogany, instead of maple, for the neck and
then cut out the wood, for a, not really needed, truss rod.
It was dropped two times while in the case.
Hard wood doesn't mean hard, balsa is a hard wood. In general, hard wood just means it comes from a broad leafed tree that goes dormant and loses its leaves in the fall and winter vs soft woods which are evergreen and retain their needles. So people who want to argue with you about the hardness of mahogany in light of it being a hard wood are just silly.
Interesting though, that Martin necks don't break like that and they are mostly mahogany. Not knocking the maple.
You're talking guitars. Much thicker piece of wood.
What happened to your. Assistant?
Sickamore I think
Don't think so. I have built 4 or 5 out of sycamore. I can recognize that.
@@RosaStringWorks Osage orange
Why does everyone use mahogany if maple is so much better?
Maple is stronger but also heavier. On a guitar, especially an acoustic, that makes a difference.
On an electric, the heavy body balances it out. On a mandolin, it doesn't matter.
Could you just make a whole new neck?
Whoooa, no, big Big can of worms. That is an unnecessary neck reset, with all the pitfalls And
it is a mandolin, so you have to be careful about the tab, at the bottom of the heel.
Plus, in this case, you would want to retain the headstock, which would then involve the same thing
he is doing now: a splice job. There is no winning, or even an easy way.
too much work
I guess it would open a can of worms over the the tab, neck reset, block. And all of that.
Maple neck les Paul's snap exactly the same and in the same place as mahogany necks. It's the construction of the neck not the material. Lots of les Paul's also have multi laminate necks and still suffer headstock snaps. If Gibson used a volute it would be a stronger construction...
The material still plays into the breakage. If they used mahogany, it would just break easier.
Yes I think I said that. It is one contributing factor.... NOT the entire reason
@@RosaStringWorks Gibson won't change Jerry all the fanboys would be up in arms because its not "vintage era correct " the same way the SG snaps at the neck/body joint because of the tiny amount of wood left after routing out the neck pocket.
@@zapa1pnt material does come into it but construction is the biggest factor on Gibson necks especially les Paul's and SGs its the nature of the beast when having one. I own a 69 telecaster that has been dropped and kicked and came off its strap on stage numerous times over the 30 years I've owned it and nothing has broken apart from chips to the finish and dings to the wood. My 1995 and my 2010 les Paul's have both had headstock repairs one from falling off its stand and the other was in its case in the van on the wto a gig.... something about that les paul sound tho....
You’re wife will not like you the same with three hands!
Honestly, I think you have an approach that backfires when you do the easy stuff first. You end up having to redo things. Think about it. I've seen you have to repeat little things you just went for before doing something like finish work. You don't like certain types of finish work because of your colorblindness, which is totally understandable.
Think about it.
I stopped watching this guy because he moans and groans throughout his repairs. If you don't like this work go get a job as McDonalds. Look at his T-shirt, even that is a winge. I watch with sound off, that way I don't have to put up with his constant bleating.