Crazy RICH XTerra - P0172 (Part 1)
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- Опубликовано: 5 май 2023
- This 2004 Nissan XTerra 4x4 V6 can't pass the NYS Emissions test because of a persistent
P0172 - Fuel System Too RICH code.
On a cold start it coughs and stumbles; runs OK when it warms up, but the fuel economy is in the gutter.
Let's look at the FUEL TRIMS of the entire engine, and determine what exactly is causing the extremely rich condition.
What seems to be a simple diagnosis turns into a weird case study...
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Enjoy!
Ivan 
Авто/Мото
Having breakfast with Ivan on Saturday morning,it doesn't get any better than that.
After market Maf sensors should come with free christmas tree drill for correct airflow metering 🤣🤣
RABS II. I bought a 96 F150 and because the instrument panel is buried in the dash it was difficult to see my speedometer in the instrument cluster, so I pulled it out and replaced all of the instrument bulbs with super bright leds. With the parking lights on during the day it works well, except that the ABS light stayed on. I pulled the code and it flashed 16 times ( really fast had to use my phone with slow motion to accurately count the flashes) This code says all is well. Why is that ABS light still on? I was getting ready to go to the junkyard and get a module and valve. First I looked at the wiring diagram and noticed that circuit has a diode in it. I then noticed that upon turning the key on the ABS light was bright then quickly dimmed. HMMMMM, so I pulled the instrument cluster out and replaced the ABS super bright led with a standard 194 incandescent bulb. WOW, now the ABS light comes on when the key is turned to on and then goes out completely. The moral of the story? Watch more of Ivan!
I have learned so much from your videos, and the most important one is, when possible, use OEM equipment, ALWAYS! Looking forward to part 2.
You'll notice that not even Ivan uses OEM parts all of the time. His quote was "If it has wires, use OEM".
I would agree with that even for things like struts and suspension parts. My experience has been that aftermarket suspension parts wear out in 3-4 years, making it a terrible bargain, even it it's half the price or less.
That new Lunar Rock (Toyota) color would be perfect. Call it the Lunar Eclipse.
I'm liking this control logic strategy, making it as easy to diagnose as possible and shop friendly in the process
That's an awesome lesson on the MAF and it's importance. Really enjoyed it Ivan. Thanks!
Speaking on oem parts. I once did an ac compressor 5 times. It was on a VW which had a variable displacement compressor. The shop wouldn't get me an OEM compressor. When they finally did problem was solved. I got paid 25 hours for a 5 hour job. In an other situation I diagnosed a car for a maf. Installed a non OEM sensor. The sensor read correctly at idle. But then went to drive it and encountered a bucking and jerking under heavy load. That led me down a 3 day diag path. After wasting all that time installed an OEM maf. And just like that. Fixed. All driveability symptoms gone. Now if I'm given a non OEM part I always communicate that if this doesn't work I'm getting paid to re-diagnose and repair it.
Yup I just assume aftermarket sensors and solenoids are bad out of the box... Usually that assumption is correct 😂
My best OEM sensor story (c. 1986) was 3, new, defective, GM MAP sensors in a row. Got the 1st one at local Chevy dealer, installed it, car still ran terrible, wasted time redoing diag, came back to MAP sensor AGAIN. Tested MAP on bench - BAD. Sent gofor to return defect and pickup replacement. Tested replacement on bench - JUNK. Now I had to go to Chevy because, of course, Chevy parts guy thinks I'm nuts. I took vacuum pump and DMM with me. They had ONE more in stock. We open box at parts counter, test it - junk! Parts guy had tech come up and take it away for 20 minutes; he finally returned and confirm my assessment. I went across the street to Buick dealer, bought one, tested on the counter - GOOD. Installed in car and everyone lived happily ever after. [Moral Of The Story: you CANNOT even trust OEM 100%]
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics ever since Covid ive had bad oem parts more than bad aftermarket. Seems like everything is junk!
Great video as always ivan thanks for taking us along with you
I can't wait for the next episode. Greetings from Dublin
Great work, as always!
Long story short. I bought a MAF sensor (Chinesium) from a large national chain. Didn't work (Kia '00 2.0L) went to a local boneyard bought one for the amazing sum of $1.50. Guess what, it works perfectly. No more black/grey soot from the tailpipe. As for the Ranger in the video, I would disable the ABS and just hope that I never got into an accident. Or the investigator for the insurance company wasn't overly thorough.
Ivan has been pouring on the interesting and useful videos. Thanks for sharing the most secret and guarded knowledge on the planet: how to fix cars.
Great video! Makes me want to buy one of those Launch think tools even though I don't need one!
That is a really cool test with a controlled vaccume leak
That is a great way to diag . a rich condition ,introduce a controlled air leak while watching data. Another arrow in the quiver. THANKS!
Hi Ivan, great video! There are a lot of junk parts on the market. Sadly, people tend to shop by the part's cost and don't consider that the part may be of such poor quality that it is literally throwing away not only to buy it but also to use it. And that's before taking into account repair costs caused by the lousy part.
I've had to replace MAF sensors before and it hasn't been too difficult to find a proper part at a sensible price. I went so far as to download data sheets for MAF sensors and it was a real eye-opener to see what was actually going on. For example, after a lot of research I learned that one manufacturer was using the same sensor module but in different housings to produce a different MAF unit, so I knew that it didn't actually matter what whole unit I bought and I could get the proper one at the cheapest price and simply swap the sensor module into the housing I had.
I would thing that the sensor module you are looking for here is used in several other vehicles. I would go online and type part numbers in to build a cross-reference of vehicles with the same sensor, the costs and availability. Chances you can find and source the correct OEM part for this vehicle without much difficulty. It could be the identical OEM part, but sold for a different vehicle and a lot cheaper!
Ivan , I agree that ford needs no abs system. Great diagnosis on the nissan. Amazing how aftermarket garbage parts can cause so much havoc...Pete
Morning Ivan.
Great video. Sounds like me in morning. Coughs and stumbles. DERBY DAY my friend. wish me luck.
Good one with the Nissan. They are sensitive with the sensor readings.
I remember the isolation/dump valve reset code. We would replace the valve assy. I never tried just a brake fluid flush to see if that did anything.
Nice tip with the addition of un metered air .
Agreed, I will put that in the special tests drawer. I knew how they functioned but that is neat to watch in the live data.
Speaking of aftermarket parts, I purchased a new steering angle/torque sensor for a Malibu, because of the steering angle sensor fault, the part was OEM, then the new sensors torque sensor was bad. Parts have driven me crazy since Covid.
Pretty cool on the live data maf action. Considering let’s just say some “types” of drivers, ABS is a needed feature, but like You, that would be a quick NPR fix for me. Beginning at a very early age with 2 wheel fun units, We quickly acquire ABS .
Depends on what is wrong with the abs. If brake fluid is leaking into the dump valve on those older rwal systems, you rear wheels can actually lock up in a panic stop and you will lose brake pedal. It will take several seconds to unlock and no amount of your learned abs will change that. You should bypass the activation unit entirely if that is you goal.
BTW, those older rear wheel anti lock systems often are the problem with a spongy brake pedal that sinks to the floor and turns the brake warning light on when the engine is running but will bleed and feel normal when the engine is off. You can find rebuilt or reman replacements for a couple hundred bucks online. Or people like you can just bypass the units and take your chances.
I usually ask my neighbors - " how many times would you like to replace your cheapo aftermarket part? "
I hope you also ask, "How many times am I going to charge to change this "el cheapo" part"?".
None job Ivan, pretty simple diagnosis of the junk maf!!! And nice to see the Ford ranger lol. I keep having intermittent abs issues, i just pulled the fuse and problem solved lol. See what happens in part 2, lol
Good stuff!
😁 Hello Ivan. Every time I see you start a video I think " Did you check the air filter?"
Did driveability diagnosis for over 20 years and have had to deal with non OE parts many many times. It’s gotten worse with so many more companies now making cheaper parts now. During my time working in an Indy shop split fire spark plugs came out and had a huge advertising campaign and I had buckets of SplitFire plugs I swapped back to good OE brand plugs to fix numerous driveability concerns. There was one week I replaced over 20 sets of SplitFire plugs just for hesitations and misfires.
Very relavent video, I've been getting a lot of lean codes recently, aftermarket sensors are just junk anymore, I get a lot of " I just put this sensor in I got from Amazon" people think there getting a deal from a cheap part on line but would have been cheaper if you just had it diagnosed and repaired by a reputable tech the first time around,
You get what you pay for. Chinisium parts made by Lee Fung for God knows who is a gamble at best.
Good find, I didn't see you check the airbox thouhg, yah those cheap mafs are a problem, but might be mice or a lol birds.
Awesome thanks
With older Nissans, go to self learning under special function after any emissions repair to clear self learning. That’ll bring you our long-term foot fuel trims back to normal after repair your bank 2 Oxygen Center rear looks to be way too active. The cat code may not show, but that controls long-term trim on Nissans. They don’t tell you when I need books or any pamphlets.
Keep alive memory can be wiped on a lot of occasions by disconnecting battery then putting ground and battery cable together for 10 min then cycle ignition switch a dozen time .
With these older single CAN bus DLC vehicles, you can very quickly bring the bus to its knees with looking at too many data PIDs. You really want to keep it to 4 or less in troubleshooting to minimize the throughput on the PCM (or gateway if the vehicle has one, which I doubt). For a prolonged rich condition you may want to inspect a few plugs.
I remember someone had a similar issue, and it was the connectors for o2sensors were swapped around and kept reporting incorrectly.
Nice procedure to animate the fuel trim response to the MAF. Just a wild guess - NPR crusty MAF ground.
We'll find out in Part 2 👍
I wouldn't be surprised if the air boot is torn or ripped or cracked or anything but sealed and not letting in unmetered air. I have an infinity qx4 with this engine and it's still got its original distributor as far as I know. I've replaced them before tho but only after performing a thorough diagnostic troubleshooting procedure.
You won't get increased maf readings (negative fuel trims) by a ripped intake boot.
The unmetered air getting in lowers the reading of the MAF sensor and makes the computer compensate with positive fuel trim.
I presume you did check to make sure no rodents have taken up residence near the mass airflow sensor. Also, it does have the correct fuel? Great video!
I didn't see if you tested for a good ground? A ground difference between the sensor and ECU would cause it to read false voltage. If the sensor is really bad check for a bad air filter or broken case or hose causing it to get contaminated. With it reading too high sometimes you can clean the dirt off of the glass reed or wire and it might get it back.
What would happen if you just cleaned the MAF sensor as you have done on previous occasions? What is the difference? Thanks!
Aftermarket parts never work right I always buy my parts from the dealer it's cheaper in the long run.
Hi Ivan! 3 parts? I guess you must have found other problems after you installed the OEM MAF sensor then? And you were questioning the worthiness of this vehicle for a video? Maybe your spidey sensors were tingling huh? This should be interesting!
ABS, if equipped has to work by law here. Wouldn't be without it at hightway speeds. What are the rules in the states?
Ok, going to ask a dumb question. If the fuel trims are taking fuel out no matter what but it still thinks it needs to remove fuel from the system, Isn't it possible its getting extra fuel from maybe a stuck open fuel injector or something.
👍👍👍
Great tip to bypass the MAF bias, Ivan! Seems it would be solved with an oem MAF sensor, but why the x-part video? There must be more drama somewhere :-)
The X part is the next part of the Danger Ranger diag.
@@baxrok2. Yep, but does it end there?
@@JoseSilveira-newhandleforYT Well, looks like I'm wrong again. The XTerra is back!
Never mind the EXterra What is the story behind that blown up tire, gees?
👍
Aftermarket parts strike again. It amazes me how they can just keep putting out crap all the time. It kind of looks with that Ranger that the circuit 535 is open/shorted or that proportioning valve has an internal issue. Did you know Ivan that when Ford came out with RABS (rear antilock brake system) on their pickups that they first had generation 1 and then eventually generation 2. The only single difference being generation 2 had memory and generation 1 did not. On generation 1 when you turned the key off, the code went bye bye.
in my area we're not allowed to disable abs...the government insists that its a safety feature and if it was originally built with an abs ...it must have working abs to pass safety inspection
Govt regulations often don't make much sense 🤣
These Nissan/Infiniti engines are very sensitive to the correct OEM sensors. My M35 had the incorrect camshaft sensors from the factory and when I installed the correct Hitachi brand ones it really hauled ass
I too have had good luck with the Hitachi brand camshaft sensors. It`s been 3 years since an install on a 2004 Nissan Murano, and no problems.
@@imp736 that's great to hear! I think mine had some Bosch in it or something other than Hitachi and after doing some research I discovered that many of them came from the factory with the incorrect camshaft sensors. It is usually the simple stuff.
I know that with the twin cam Nissan RB30 engine that I built I still ran the R33 Skyline GTS engine management system from the 2.5 litre 6 cylinder engine on the 3 litre engine.
The mass airflow sensor is a Hitachi brand which suits the Nissan RB20DET (2 litre turbocharged six) & the non turbo Nissan RB25DE (2.5 litre six),it is the sensor with the green Hitachi label on it
I got a code 13 (mass airflow sensor fault) , fouled spark plugs & the engine wouldn't rev past 2000 RPM because the ECU was faulty so another R33 Skyline GTS RB25DE ECU fixed the problem.
The Nissan RB20DET engine runs 200 CC/min top feed fuel injectors in the R32 Skyline, they axed that engine in the R33 Skyline GTS & ran the RB25DE engine with 200CC/min Nippon Denso side feed injectors, both engines ran the same mass airflow sensor.
On the other hand,the Nissan RB25DET (turbocharged) engine runs higher flowing Nippon Denso side feed injectors & a purple labelled mass airflow sensor so they're different, you can't plug them into the non turbo engines wiring loom & run the non turbo engine with the standard non turbo RB25DE ECU.
As far as the Ford Ranger goes,it would fail a registration inspection in Australia if the ABS was disabled & even if the mechanic didn't know about it & it passed the vehicles insurance would become null & void if it was involved in a car accident !
Just move to the outback where no one cares. Problem solved. :) G'day mate.
I think the real problem is a dirty throttle body. Or possibly a dirty idle air control passage.
Given the idle rpm was 1200 (double), I didn't think the MAF was that far off.
Hot idle is 750rpm. 4g/sec would be way too high for a 3.3L engine. 👍
i find it's odd that all the generic sensors never seem to work, its almost like they are making them for asian cars only and will not be compatable with other car types.
That is exactly how I would have counted it too.. LOL - one, two, three, fooouuur...
do the manufacturers put software in the engine computer that does not work with after market components???
No. It's not a software block or anything.
The tolerances for the sensor measurements are tighter than the generic or aftermarket sensors produce. There is some speculation that a lot of aftermarket sensors are basically oem rejects that failed some quality control point in a Chinese or some third world factory. I'm not sure how true that is but if you literally have no production costs outside of packaging and shipping, you can take a lot of returns and still make a buck.
On something like a mass air flow sensor, it takes the input voltage and changes it to another value then sends it through a wire that heats up and creates resistance. Air going through the intake passes over this wire and cools it down decreasing the resistance in the wire. The resulting voltage that gets through the wire is directly tied to the amount of air flowing past it.
So if the wire is too long or too short, it doesn't produce the correct reading. If the opening that exposes the wire to airflow is off by a degree or two, or larger or smaller than the oem, it can read wrong. If a resistor or capacitor in the circuit that controls the input voltage is flaky, it can read erratically.
Oem carry long warranties and the extra care for quality is small compared to the thousands of dollars being spent on a new car. Aftermarket on the other hand needs to be cost effective to sell just the part. They have less room to ensure all the quality controls are working all the time and likely employ people less concerned about it in an effort to produce a profit.
Disabling safety items even if there is a fault isn't a good liability practice for a professional repair shop.
Can all the NON OEM sensors be bad? I can only imagine that the purchase - return/relace percentage rate would be so high that even retailing them is a financial loss for retailers.
Many if not most have no return policy on electric parts, though some will bend for regular customers.
ABS is useless? Crazy Ivan.
Wouldn't that abs code be #3? three short flashes then a long flash indicating end of codes?
I read the example of counting flashes in the OEM service info... Watch that part again 🙂
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics yeah, I'll have to watch that part again.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics yup, you are correct. Count the short flashes and include the long flash. I missed that part the first time.
can you link the coolant temp sensor video?
It's in the cards that should pop up during the video 👍
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics it doesn't i went back and checked
Missed your chance to title this video
"Crazy Rich Asians".
Then I would be banned for racism 🤣🤣🤣
MAF has to be a Hitachi brand.
Correct 👌
Xterra defined = an off road triathlon. Guaranteed
To loose with that crappy
Mass air flow 🤣
So mam
So you're saying the fix is making a controlled air leak? 😂
You could probably hack it by putting it in a larger diameter intake tube if you had to make it work.
Common issue with cheap aftermarket air intakes that have you move your MAF sensor over, the tubing diameter is not the same, or the airstream is turbulent going across the MAF and you get wonky fuel trims.
It's always funny when someone installs that crap and then forgets that it was the cause of all their driveability concerns or check engine light for rich / lean fuel trim.
Rear only ABS, yeah, pretty much is useless!
I big problem with the automotive repair industry is good diagnostic is not rewarded. Let’s say a tech spends 20k on the best diag equipment, studies,and trains. Tech “A” without that equipment or knowledge charges hours for diag and thousands on parts. Then tech “B” with the best stuff and procedures finds a bad ground in 45 minutes. There is no reward for the investment. I am a really good diag guy and I left the industry because I had to repair 2 or 3 times as many vehicles as a hack to make the same money. Fixing these problem cars from shops was so easy for me it was funny but after some time I became resentful and couldn’t do it any more.
Why do people use arftermarket parts your better off using OEM
Price and availability
People want cheap
See if this will work; get a powerful magnet with a depression that will allow you to STOP THE DINGING FROM THE FREAKING DOOR! You're welcome.
Lol. 1,2,3,fooooooour. 1,2,3, foooooour….
Please dont two parts recording.
Good thing this one is 3 parts 😅👍
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics 😂😂😂😂😂
You guys who make after-market: ARE YOU LISTENING? ARE YOU AWAKE? Your stuff sucks!
BTW..
Could you start identifying which auto part supplied your bad parts? Napa, AutoZone,.Oreilly???
thank you for the education ==> I'm getting insights into strategies that used car repair/sell employ: "take out the trouble light!"
All of the above. OEM only!