Excellent teaching.... I learned all these things by myself with super cheap hammer and dolly set from China 40 years ago... and reading books in the library ... no one near me knew anything about metal working at least no one I knew of..... it amazed me how easy it really is and also it amazes me how metal forms memory over time....wrinkled fenders would easily go back to shape if done right after the accident but months or years later would become more difficult the longer you waited....a little heat would overcome that work hardening of the metal.... and yes I totally agree that it's like working clay .... using heat is like adding water to clay preventing cracking from over working .... pretty kool atuff
jolllyroger1 clay is similar to aluminum, but once you’re working with things like steel or stainless or titanium it’s more like glass or something, more carbon in the steel results in pretty brittle crackly stiffness.. but annealing and heat treating and case hardening etc. is the secret recipe
@@WPXTacoMan477 everything is fluid even ice even glass..... you must use a cutter that is harder than what you intend to cut ie less fluid ..... it's easy to drill glass if you do it under water it cools and it damps the vibration that causes fractures or harmonic ripples in the material.... and then there is edm drilling which can drill anything with extreme precision
I went to 8 youtube channels to see a mallet and sandbag in use and what they can do. All 8 channels showed the tools, but not being used. At least you show us the tools in use and what they can do. Thanks.
Wray, thank you for the video and the instructions. This is what I use to consider a 400 level subject, but when you show and explain how you are gathering, shrinking the edge, tip the panel into the tool, ect, the mystery reveals itself. You are a great teacher and the more I watch the more I want to come for a 4 day class. Carl Carlson
Just came here to see what tipping wheel was about, but then I had to watch to the end. Wray is a master and he quickly catches your interest, no matter if this is something you'll never use in your life. Now, on to part two. Best regards.
Thank you Wray for posting your training videos. It was a pleasure and an eye opener to attend your workshop. I look forward to training with your again!
Thank you!, excellent explanation of different techniques. Just getting into this trade and you've done a video that really makes it easy to comprehend comprehend
I worked as a sheetmetal mechanic for 20 years. We mostly fabricated for the heating ,air conditioning,ventilation market but also did cornice work and built and installed copper ornamental roofing and awnings. We also started installing heating, air conditioning equipment, so I went back to school to design, install, and repair our's and other's systems. For my last 25 years, before I retired, I worked as a hvac mechanic. I remember well some of the techniques you show. Lol In the 1980s a large truck hit the awning over the side walk at a local store in a down town historic district. The awning was built in the 1880s. I remember building the ornamental starfish on the sides of the awning. When installed you couldn't tell mine from the originals.
You missed ..that with a hunk of metal and a hammer you can do all of this.... simple tools is all you need... you can even use wooden blocks as dolly rocks pipes bags of sand and hammers be those hammers made of metal wood plastic or even stone.... to shrink you can use a pointed punch with wood backing .... it's all in thinking and watching how the metal moves
Something about his accent and his teaching method really reminds of The New Yankee Workshop. I'll, more than likely, never own half of the tools this guy does but he definitely inspires me!
Thanks for this video, Wray. It's always good to watch someone with experience do this type of work. It's even better when hand tools and inexpensive tools are used. Not all of us can afford the fancy tools. Please keep the videos coming. I appreciate the time it takes away from your other work and life in general. Waiting patiently for the next one.....
Thanks again Wray. I need to flange a panel I am fabbing and I wasn’t sure how I was going to do it without a tipping wheel and shrinker. Now I’m pretty sure I can hammer and dolly it.
watching you hand shrink is just great , its a master class in its self . Nice to see some one working in steel , I do a lot of scania cabs and tractors , so all i get to beat about is 40 up to 60 thou steel , how i dream about alloy to beat on for a change.
Love your work and the machines you built , for me this was interesting because I'm in to metal shaping and I all so build my own machines , ( my E wheel is all so a bead roller with a motor , I'm a Fitter and Turner ) it's all ways nice to see how other people do it, I find you inspirational you make me want to go out to my shed and get back in to it . thank you for that .
I took your class on Flexible Shape Patterns on September 16, 2011 learned alot real help, loved the class. I just came across your web page and all the vidoes that you have, wow!! they are so insightful, such a big help, I sit and watch them for hours. Man keep it up your doing so much for the art of metal working!
Love these instructional videos Wray, particularly given you show alternative methods of achieving the same result with accessible tools and professional machinery. It certainly gives me some confidence to practice my metal shaping. Thanks.
An old sheet metal trick. We put a 3/4”nut in the jaws of a 10” vice grip such that one edge of the nut is parallel with the front if the vice grip. Adjusting this to a tight bite provides the exact width and depth to quickly accurately bend up a 90 degree flange approximately 1/2” on a round pipe. Neat quick and accurate.
I've been an aircraft sheet metal mechanic for over 30 years, but have spent so much of that time in other areas of aviation structural mechanics, I'm not the metal bender I'd like to be. For instance I'm just now learning how to much shrinking can be done by hammering and pressing gathers in the material. I've always tried to avoid gathering as much as possible outside of shrinking dies. Possibly because we generally use 2024 t4 and 7075 t6 aluminum which is quite stiff a prone to cracking so with tight intricate shapes we have to often work with annealed material and heat treat the finished product.
Curious if you could show in a video how to do two tipped edges, basically a “L” at the edge of a panel , like the roof to windshield on a 68 Chevy pu,
I love the vise grip tipping of the aluminum sheet. Do you think it will work with 0.032" 2024-T3 aluminum? I want a 90° flange on a 24" diameter circle of the aluminum.
It's very nice job and a lot of the good information I do have one question though I think I met you in fort Hood in 1969 but I'm not sure I may have the wrong guy
Really cool, don’t know if a huge flange would ever be applicable but it would be easy to adjust your English wheel where the crank was on a beveled gear or just a couple straight gears to get that hand wheel out of the way to access the rest of that space for potentially a couple feet of sheet metal
Thanks for this video, Wray. Interesting and insightful. I hope to take your class at some point. Please keep making these type of videos. I appreciate the time you put into making these videos. Jerry
@@proshaper I grew up in shear and break shop about 40 years.Built woodstoves, machinery, tooling, stainless tanks, stainless kitchens like McDonald's and Wendy My Father and uncles where all St Louis body men. I watch you years ago make jag fenders. Your cool.
The last tapered bead shown in the clip, how deep can that be made in the middle of a flat floorpan without creating distortion? Typically used on modern cars to strenghten up the floor from front to back
Hi Paul, I have two cordless sheet metal shears. Both have proven to be almost indestructible. They have lived through the abuse of many classes over the last two years.😁😁😁 The first one I purchased was a Bosch 12 volt ( they are now 18volt). The second one is a Chinese manufactured 12 volt model, sold through Menards. They no longer sell them as far as I know. I was never able to track down a Chinese company that made them. Once you use a cordless shear hand shearing only happens 5 percent of the time.
Awesome video Wray. As I used to live in Maine for 13 years the accent reminds me of home. My question is you tend towards shrinking most of the time and why that is? I have done quite a bit of tin knockin in the past and really never gave it any thought. Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
Hi Matt, thanks for your comments. I was born in Worcester, MA which has it's own individual accent, it is different from a Boston accent, but very similar to a Maine accent.😁😁😁 My general rule of thumb is if a panel has more than 3" of rise at the highest point it is better to shrink. How much you shrink is up to you. General rule if thumb is you can shrink 50 percent, or 60, 70. It really doesn't make the panel better, but it often allows you to make larger panels and make them faster with less welding.
I made it. It is one of my favorites. Takes about 3 or 4 hours to saw grind, harden, and then polish it. It lasts a lifetime so it is worth the time.😁😁😁
Love these videos wray. Keep them up for sure. Some of the best metal shaping stuff on youtube. What was the name of that electric shear you are using? I could not find it. Now i just need to save up a little cash to take the class. You don't need any free labor for trade do you haha :)
The sad part about building a tool though is once you are gone or out of business or even passed on, NOBODY but you will have known how handy these tools really were or what in God's name they were used for in many cases!!! I say that because I used to work in electronics factories and constantly came up with tools of my own designs to help me work through problems with products and projects I was told to work on!! Some days I was even taking things home with me to "solve a problem" I was having just to develop a tool at my home work shop and then leave it at the company I worked for so I could use it every day at my job!!! A great example of what I am talking about is I created a tool that tested the polarity of a connection that used a simple LED to test the power coming out of it. In the "right position" the LED would light up telling me the connection was wired correctly and that we had power to the unit, in the "Bad position" I could also test to see if the circuit actually had power of the board or harness plugged into it might have a problem. And it took literally SECONDS to figure out when using the tool I build and designed "what was wrong" and "how to fix it" with the tool I designed!! And some of the boards WERE as much of a problem as were some of the harnesses we'd get into as well!! The thing is I showed the tool to a friend of mine who I trusted while I worked there, and I told him "if anything ever happens to me where I am NOT HERE. take this tool apart!" OR "keep it for yourself but never tell anybody what it is used for!"!!! After all the tool was just "simple pieces" we used all over the shop in different areas of the company, and because my station tested EVERYTHING, ODDLY we were always getting "spare parts" to repair weird things that should have at times NEVER been assembled wrong to start with!!! A couple years working there went by and I up and quit one day, fed up with being screwed over and the many "this is the final straw moments" the company had put me through!! I didn't cause a big scene and as I just turned to walk out the door, I told my friend "Remember what I told you about my tools!" and he shook his head!! Years later I ran into my friend and he told me that he used my hand built, self designed tools for years and NOBODY knew how he learned the things I taught him!! I had after all shown him how the tools worked what they were used for, and WHAT they did. He told me further that one day the president of the company noticed him using one of my tools and asked him "Hey where did you get that tool?" and my friend told him "You had a guy working here almost 10 years ago who your plant manager had a grudge against, so he quit, and he designed it and built it!" and then he told the company president that "If I ever leave I was told to destroy the tool or take it with me!" The crazy thing is this was AFTER my friend left the company and he STILL had the tools in his home work shop!! Nobody ever knew WHAT the tools were for, what you could test with them, or even who built them other than him and I!! And sadly when him and I was gone, all the problems I had "solved" with the tools I had built had came back to the company and NOBODY in the whole shop knew how to fix them!! Lastly the craziest part to my story is this!! I am NOT a "smart man" I am a simple hick form the back woods of upstate New York with only a high school diploma and a background in high school level electronics!!! I am also self taught on computers as well, but I have a decent understanding of both!! Further I was trained in auto mechanics which wiring in cars was kind of one of my "special training", so working around DC powered circuits isn't anything new to me!!!! I never went to college and I have designed and built many tools in my life, and nobody ever seems to understand WHAT THEY ARE, how they work, or the problems they can solve when I am NOT AROUND TO USE THEM!!! In another company they simply threw out a number of my "self made tools" another friend there told me about, because nobody KNEW WHAT THEY WERE, or how to use them, then they tried to assemble the things I built for the customer without my tools and ended up loosing the customer, because nobody knew how to solve the problems I had created the tools to "fix"!! And in THAT company I had worked BY MYSELF for four different customers, and developed tools for ALL four product lines that were "special to those jobs"! So in the end they DID NOT LOSE JUST ONE CUSTOMER because nobody knew how to use my tools and thought my tools where literally GARBAGE as they tossed them out!! They killed their own business because nobody knew what my tools DID or how they made work "easier" as they lost all four customers!!!
Hi Jim, I have two, one is Bosch and the other is a MasterForce. MasterForce is sold at Menards. Bosch you will have to search. Both work very well. The Bosch was $325.00 and the Masterforce was $163.00. I hardly ever use hand snips now.
Hello Dear Wray How are you? My name is Eric I'm from Brasil, I'm so very fan yours works, I follow yours video on youtube. I would like know if you have plans or drawing for sale to building jaws for the shrink and stretch. I planing install or mount on a pullmax.
Excellent teaching.... I learned all these things by myself with super cheap hammer and dolly set from China 40 years ago... and reading books in the library ... no one near me knew anything about metal working at least no one I knew of..... it amazed me how easy it really is and also it amazes me how metal forms memory over time....wrinkled fenders would easily go back to shape if done right after the accident but months or years later would become more difficult the longer you waited....a little heat would overcome that work hardening of the metal.... and yes I totally agree that it's like working clay .... using heat is like adding water to clay preventing cracking from over working .... pretty kool atuff
jolllyroger1 clay is similar to aluminum, but once you’re working with things like steel or stainless or titanium it’s more like glass or something, more carbon in the steel results in pretty brittle crackly stiffness.. but annealing and heat treating and case hardening etc. is the secret recipe
WPXTacoMan477 Joseph Gaudioso
@@WPXTacoMan477 everything is fluid even ice even glass..... you must use a cutter that is harder than what you intend to cut ie less fluid ..... it's easy to drill glass if you do it under water it cools and it damps the vibration that causes fractures or harmonic ripples in the material.... and then there is edm drilling which can drill anything with extreme precision
"If you know the techniques, you really don't need all the tools."
Thanks for THIS quote.
It has pumped big confidence in me. Thanks Again.
I went to 8 youtube channels to see a mallet and sandbag in use and what they can do. All 8 channels showed the tools, but not being used. At least you show us the tools in use and what they can do. Thanks.
Wray, thank you for the video and the instructions. This is what I use to consider a 400 level subject, but when you show and explain how you are gathering, shrinking the edge, tip the panel into the tool, ect, the mystery reveals itself. You are a great teacher and the more I watch the more I want to come for a 4 day class. Carl Carlson
Thanks Carl.
Just came here to see what tipping wheel was about, but then I had to watch to the end. Wray is a master and he quickly catches your interest, no matter if this is something you'll never use in your life. Now, on to part two. Best regards.
Great helpful demonstration Wray-Thank you very much ✅👍
Thank you Wray for posting your training videos. It was a pleasure and an eye opener to attend your workshop. I look forward to training with your again!
Thank you!, excellent explanation of different techniques. Just getting into this trade and you've done a video that really makes it easy to comprehend comprehend
Man. So informative. I was like hmm never seen someone tip an edge with an English wheel. *click* 30 minutes later, here we are. Lol.
Enjoy your running commentary with simple language and well versed technique .You are truly a skilled metal man with many helpful tips ,Thank you .
Thanks Glenn!
For an amateur, the shrinking of pucks with just a hammer and dolly makes shaping accessible to the back yard hack. Awesome stuff.
I worked as a sheetmetal mechanic for 20 years. We mostly fabricated for the heating ,air conditioning,ventilation market but also did cornice work and built and installed copper ornamental roofing and awnings. We also started installing heating, air conditioning equipment, so I went back to school to design, install, and repair our's and other's systems. For my last 25 years, before I retired, I worked as a hvac mechanic. I remember well some of the techniques you show. Lol In the 1980s a large truck hit the awning over the side walk at a local store in a down town historic district. The awning was built in the 1880s. I remember building the ornamental starfish on the sides of the awning. When installed you couldn't tell mine from the originals.
Great job of illustration. Thanks for the lesson. With a shop like yours , the sky is the limit. Thanks again !!!
You missed ..that with a hunk of metal and a hammer you can do all of this.... simple tools is all you need... you can even use wooden blocks as dolly rocks pipes bags of sand and hammers be those hammers made of metal wood plastic or even stone.... to shrink you can use a pointed punch with wood backing .... it's all in thinking and watching how the metal moves
Nice work. Cool details. Decades of experience makes it look easy.
Something about his accent and his teaching method really reminds of The New Yankee Workshop. I'll, more than likely, never own half of the tools this guy does but he definitely inspires me!
You rock Mr. Wray Schelin! Such good info - thank you!
Thanks Wray, very informative.
Thanks for this video, Wray. It's always good to watch someone with experience do this type of work.
It's even better when hand tools and inexpensive tools are used. Not all of us can afford the fancy tools.
Please keep the videos coming. I appreciate the time it takes away from your other work and life in general.
Waiting patiently for the next one.....
Thanks Joe!
Thanks again Wray. I need to flange a panel I am fabbing and I wasn’t sure how I was going to do it without a tipping wheel and shrinker. Now I’m pretty sure I can hammer and dolly it.
I work with sheet metal but have just picked up some new techniques. Thank you very much. Subscribed. Dean in Oxfordshire UK.
Awesome, thank you!
watching you hand shrink is just great , its a master class in its self .
Nice to see some one working in steel , I do a lot of scania cabs and tractors , so all i get to beat about is 40 up to 60 thou steel , how i dream about alloy to beat on for a change.
MAN THAT'S A SEROUS WHEEL - THANK YOU FROM AUSTRALIA MATE.
Very talented man brilliant
Love your work and the machines you built , for me this was interesting because I'm in to metal shaping and I all so build my own machines , ( my E wheel is all so a bead roller with a motor , I'm a Fitter and Turner ) it's all ways nice to see how other people do it, I find you inspirational you make me want to go out to my shed and get back in to it . thank you for that .
Excellent video- plan to watch all that are available from you - thank you!
Please subscribe and tell your friends that like shaping. Thanks,Wray
I took your class on Flexible Shape Patterns on September 16, 2011 learned alot real help, loved the class. I just came across your web page and all the vidoes that you have, wow!! they are so insightful, such a big help, I sit and watch them for hours. Man keep it up your doing so much for the art of metal working!
I hope to try a class or two myself, but for now I truly appreciate the videos he's doing.
Love these instructional videos Wray, particularly given you show alternative methods of achieving the same result with accessible tools and professional machinery. It certainly gives me some confidence to practice my metal shaping. Thanks.
An old sheet metal trick. We put a 3/4”nut in the jaws of a 10” vice grip such that one edge of the nut is parallel with the front if the vice grip. Adjusting this to a tight bite provides the exact width and depth to quickly accurately bend up a 90 degree flange approximately 1/2” on a round pipe. Neat quick and accurate.
Yes this way would be more faster and easy. No need to go over so many processes.
Excellent videos!!
I've been an aircraft sheet metal mechanic for over 30 years, but have spent so much of that time in other areas of aviation structural mechanics, I'm not the metal bender I'd like to be. For instance I'm just now learning how to much shrinking can be done by hammering and pressing gathers in the material. I've always tried to avoid gathering as much as possible outside of shrinking dies. Possibly because we generally use 2024 t4 and 7075 t6 aluminum which is quite stiff a prone to cracking so with tight intricate shapes we have to often work with annealed material and heat treat the finished product.
Great instructional video Wray.
Love how you incorporated a English wheel into a bead roller. Was thinking of building my own English wheel and really like the look of yours.
Should hold an internet"youtube" contest for best gadget 14 inches cubed or less. Thanks. Great video.
Curious if you could show in a video how to do two tipped edges, basically a “L” at the edge of a panel , like the roof to windshield on a 68 Chevy pu,
Oh where were you and RUclips when it was trying to teach myself to make ali racecar panels 30yrs ago
Lol @hitman 309,
Excellent info Ray, that last trick you showed was very inspiring! Thanks very much, cheers, Doug
Thanks Doug!
nice that was the tipps i been looking for great work thank you
Really enjoyed this tipping video. Thank you Wray! Tom
Thanks for another great video Wray. Always interesting and clever solutions to practical problems in coach building.
Wow - thank you so much for sharing these skills, invaluable, just got a used bead roller this weekend......
I love the vise grip tipping of the aluminum sheet. Do you think it will work with 0.032" 2024-T3 aluminum? I want a 90° flange on a 24" diameter circle of the aluminum.
Yes, try it.
It's very nice job and a lot of the good information I do have one question though I think I met you in fort Hood in 1969 but I'm not sure I may have the wrong guy
Hi Earl, sorry, I have never been to Fort Hood.😁
Really cool, don’t know if a huge flange would ever be applicable but it would be easy to adjust your English wheel where the crank was on a beveled gear or just a couple straight gears to get that hand wheel out of the way to access the rest of that space for potentially a couple feet of sheet metal
Seu equipamento e sensacional e suas traditradicionais são de modelagem são realmente de um artesão!
Good on You Wray!!!!
I am soaking it up like a sponge.
Top video, again. How to use the beadroller with different tecniques, was very impressing, also what type of dies to be used
Really nice
GREAT VIDEO I JUST SUBSCRIBED THANK YOU
Thanks look Foward to the next one
I'd like to see more techniques mede by hand and simple equipment support,as I'm a hobbyst and make old cars model 1/5 scale.
very informative video - I never knew wtf purpose an English wheel served - now I know. :-)
Thanks for this video, Wray. Interesting and insightful. I hope to take your class at some point. Please keep making these type of videos. I appreciate the time you put into making these videos. Jerry
Thanks Jerry, there are a lot more videos coming.😁😁😁
How is it possible i was thinking about buidlibg a set of mini-tubs for a project and was thinking of different ways to flange. This helps a lot.
This dude is cool. Great builder. Love the acorn nuts
Been at it since I was twelve 56 years ago.😁😁😁
@@proshaper I grew up in shear and break shop about 40 years.Built woodstoves, machinery, tooling, stainless tanks, stainless kitchens like McDonald's and Wendy My Father and uncles where all St Louis body men. I watch you years ago make jag fenders. Your cool.
@@zps4173 Thanks, Playing with metal is fun- you are always learning.
Thanks Ray. Question...how do u keep all your hand tools and machines from rusting? My shop is close to ocean and its a real problem...
A spray and wipe of phosphoric acid cleans any surface humidity rust easily. Naval Jelly for the harder deeper rust.
Very cool!
The last tapered bead shown in the clip, how deep can that be made in the middle of a flat floorpan without creating distortion? Typically used on modern cars to strenghten up the floor from front to back
When you make a bead in the middle of a panel unless you pre-stretch it first it will draw metal from the sides and cause a distortion in the panel.
In few words...WOW
That’s one nice Erco. :)
I enjoyed this a lot, so much I dont know.
Hey Wray what brand are those cordless shears please
Hi Paul, I have two cordless sheet metal shears. Both have proven to be almost indestructible. They have lived through the abuse of many classes over the last two years.😁😁😁 The first one I purchased was a Bosch 12 volt ( they are now 18volt). The second one is a Chinese manufactured 12 volt model, sold through Menards. They no longer sell them as far as I know. I was never able to track down a Chinese company that made them. Once you use a cordless shear hand shearing only happens 5 percent of the time.
Another way to look at it.....metal is normally a liquid that just happens to be stiff at room temperature. 😁
Excellent vid!!!
i want to bend the edge of square round steel tank. the corner round shape is 35 mm reduce so how to make it?
Another great video Wray!
Thank you. what is th material of the bottom wheel? Rubber?
Polyurethane
@@proshaper thank you
Awesome video Wray. As I used to live in Maine for 13 years the accent reminds me of home. My question is you tend towards shrinking most of the time and why that is? I have done quite a bit of tin knockin in the past and really never gave it any thought. Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
Hi Matt, thanks for your comments. I was born in Worcester, MA which has it's own individual accent, it is different from a Boston accent, but very similar to a Maine accent.😁😁😁
My general rule of thumb is if a panel has more than 3" of rise at the highest point it is better to shrink. How much you shrink is up to you. General rule if thumb is you can shrink 50 percent, or 60, 70. It really doesn't make the panel better, but it often allows you to make larger panels and make them faster with less welding.
Where to find that Dolly ???? Great Video
I made it. It is one of my favorites. Takes about 3 or 4 hours to saw grind, harden, and then polish it. It lasts a lifetime so it is worth the time.😁😁😁
Love these videos wray. Keep them up for sure. Some of the best metal shaping stuff on youtube. What was the name of that electric shear you are using? I could not find it.
Now i just need to save up a little cash to take the class. You don't need any free labor for trade do you haha :)
Masterforce cordless shears sold by Menards. Thanks, glad you are enjoying the videos.
The sad part about building a tool though is once you are gone or out of business or even passed on, NOBODY but you will have known how handy these tools really were or what in God's name they were used for in many cases!!!
I say that because I used to work in electronics factories and constantly came up with tools of my own designs to help me work through problems with products and projects I was told to work on!! Some days I was even taking things home with me to "solve a problem" I was having just to develop a tool at my home work shop and then leave it at the company I worked for so I could use it every day at my job!!!
A great example of what I am talking about is I created a tool that tested the polarity of a connection that used a simple LED to test the power coming out of it. In the "right position" the LED would light up telling me the connection was wired correctly and that we had power to the unit, in the "Bad position" I could also test to see if the circuit actually had power of the board or harness plugged into it might have a problem. And it took literally SECONDS to figure out when using the tool I build and designed "what was wrong" and "how to fix it" with the tool I designed!! And some of the boards WERE as much of a problem as were some of the harnesses we'd get into as well!!
The thing is I showed the tool to a friend of mine who I trusted while I worked there, and I told him "if anything ever happens to me where I am NOT HERE. take this tool apart!" OR "keep it for yourself but never tell anybody what it is used for!"!!! After all the tool was just "simple pieces" we used all over the shop in different areas of the company, and because my station tested EVERYTHING, ODDLY we were always getting "spare parts" to repair weird things that should have at times NEVER been assembled wrong to start with!!!
A couple years working there went by and I up and quit one day, fed up with being screwed over and the many "this is the final straw moments" the company had put me through!! I didn't cause a big scene and as I just turned to walk out the door, I told my friend "Remember what I told you about my tools!" and he shook his head!!
Years later I ran into my friend and he told me that he used my hand built, self designed tools for years and NOBODY knew how he learned the things I taught him!! I had after all shown him how the tools worked what they were used for, and WHAT they did. He told me further that one day the president of the company noticed him using one of my tools and asked him "Hey where did you get that tool?" and my friend told him "You had a guy working here almost 10 years ago who your plant manager had a grudge against, so he quit, and he designed it and built it!" and then he told the company president that "If I ever leave I was told to destroy the tool or take it with me!"
The crazy thing is this was AFTER my friend left the company and he STILL had the tools in his home work shop!! Nobody ever knew WHAT the tools were for, what you could test with them, or even who built them other than him and I!! And sadly when him and I was gone, all the problems I had "solved" with the tools I had built had came back to the company and NOBODY in the whole shop knew how to fix them!!
Lastly the craziest part to my story is this!! I am NOT a "smart man" I am a simple hick form the back woods of upstate New York with only a high school diploma and a background in high school level electronics!!! I am also self taught on computers as well, but I have a decent understanding of both!! Further I was trained in auto mechanics which wiring in cars was kind of one of my "special training", so working around DC powered circuits isn't anything new to me!!!! I never went to college and I have designed and built many tools in my life, and nobody ever seems to understand WHAT THEY ARE, how they work, or the problems they can solve when I am NOT AROUND TO USE THEM!!! In another company they simply threw out a number of my "self made tools" another friend there told me about, because nobody KNEW WHAT THEY WERE, or how to use them, then they tried to assemble the things I built for the customer without my tools and ended up loosing the customer, because nobody knew how to solve the problems I had created the tools to "fix"!! And in THAT company I had worked BY MYSELF for four different customers, and developed tools for ALL four product lines that were "special to those jobs"! So in the end they DID NOT LOSE JUST ONE CUSTOMER because nobody knew how to use my tools and thought my tools where literally GARBAGE as they tossed them out!! They killed their own business because nobody knew what my tools DID or how they made work "easier" as they lost all four customers!!!
I have a plan.😁😁😁
Good,but how to control the curvature of the plate? Is there any way?
I think you are asking about how to control the flange. You need to shrink it or stretch it depending on the desired shape.
What is the brand of your cordless shear?
Bosch they work so well you will never use snips again.
Your cordless shear,brand and where to buy.
Hi Jim, I have two, one is Bosch and the other is a MasterForce. MasterForce is sold at Menards. Bosch you will have to search. Both work very well. The Bosch was $325.00 and the Masterforce was $163.00. I hardly ever use hand snips now.
You need to start selling that dolly
WHAT BRAND OF BATT SHEARS DO YOU USE?
Bosch and Masterforce. The Masterforce is a Menards store brand (Chinese) . Both work excellent.
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Hello Dear Wray How are you? My name is Eric I'm from Brasil, I'm so very fan yours works, I follow yours video on youtube. I would like know if you have plans or drawing for sale to building jaws for the shrink and stretch. I planing install or mount on a pullmax.