Over the years I have used a variety of machines for both manual and automatic buttonholes but the principle is the same. However most demonstrations show a buttonhole where there is a perfectly even piece of neatly folded fabric. My problem is its fairly unusual to do all buttonholes where at least one and occasionally all b/h are close to an area where there are bumpy seams in the way. Eg the top buttonhole on a blouse close to a neck piping or binding etc. Many of my front opening pieces of clothing have a contrast material as a trim down the front leaving a narrow seam , or has a front facing instead of a folded centrefront seams. To avoid a collision with any seams the b/h has to be too far away from the centrefront and the position of the B/h near the neck is comprised. The automatic b/h foot is a bit clumsy and hates anything but a flat piece of fabric to proceed. At some point it will hit a seam and ruins the b/h by stopping mid stream. The fact that it goes backwards is often harder to navigate when you are trying to avoid seams . I tried a sort of clumsy stabiliser on a Janome 7200 but my visibility was very compromised. It was awful and i had to use a scalpel to unpick it and do buttonholes partly by hand and partly using manual zigzag. Do you have a manual foot for buttonholes or a good stabiliser that is not fiddly and does not impede on visibility?
It is certainly a good machine; we bought it too, but it quickly stopped working and had to be repaired. It was something mechanical, so quite simply, the mechanics couldn't sew, and that was why we bought it. A repair takes between 4 and 5 weeks. It's not exactly fast; it's actually a very, very long time. But it is a good machine; however, there are some design flaws. The plug cable that is connected to the machine on the right side of the machine does not seem to be made for the machine and cannot be pushed in all the way. The pedal works, but it is made of very light plastic and looks a bit like something PFAFF shopped in China at the last minute. You can, when working, acidentially easily hit the two buttons in silver with your hands; they are quite simply in the wrong place. And the extra speed control on the right at the bottom seems a bit like something you "suddenly got an idea to stick there", The mechanical slide-button speed adjuster is of lower quality and not the same quality as the rest. The system that controls whether you can thread a needle never works. And the small window where you can see down to the bobbin is again made of some dubious plastic and looks very different from the rest of the machine. Finally, there is this smart "I cut the thread for you," but it has to be cleaned very often to work, and you have to unscrew two screws. It could have been made smarter.
Over the years I have used a variety of machines for both manual and automatic buttonholes but the principle is the same. However most demonstrations show a buttonhole where there is a perfectly even piece of neatly folded fabric. My problem is its fairly unusual to do all buttonholes where at least one and occasionally all b/h are close to an area where there are bumpy seams in the way. Eg the top buttonhole on a blouse close to a neck piping or binding etc. Many of my front opening pieces of clothing have a contrast material as a trim down the front leaving a narrow seam , or has a front facing instead of a folded centrefront seams.
To avoid a collision with any seams the b/h has to be too far away from the centrefront and the position of the B/h near the neck is comprised. The automatic b/h foot is a bit clumsy and hates anything but a flat piece of fabric to proceed. At some point it will hit a seam and ruins the b/h by stopping mid stream. The fact that it goes backwards is often harder to navigate when you are trying to avoid seams . I tried a sort of clumsy stabiliser on a Janome 7200 but my visibility was very compromised. It was awful and i had to use a scalpel to unpick it and do buttonholes partly by hand and partly using manual zigzag. Do you have a manual foot for buttonholes or a good stabiliser that is not fiddly and does not impede on visibility?
What foot do I need to get for the Pfaff 620?
The buttonhole foot should be included in the accessories. Check in the storage area(s) on the machine in case they put it there.
It is certainly a good machine; we bought it too, but it quickly stopped working and had to be repaired. It was something mechanical, so quite simply, the mechanics couldn't sew, and that was why we bought it.
A repair takes between 4 and 5 weeks. It's not exactly fast; it's actually a very, very long time.
But it is a good machine; however, there are some design flaws.
The plug cable that is connected to the machine on the right side of the machine does not seem to be made for the machine and cannot be pushed in all the way.
The pedal works, but it is made of very light plastic and looks a bit like something PFAFF shopped in China at the last minute.
You can, when working, acidentially easily hit the two buttons in silver with your hands; they are quite simply in the wrong place.
And the extra speed control on the right at the bottom seems a bit like something you "suddenly got an idea to stick there",
The mechanical slide-button speed adjuster is of lower quality and not the same quality as the rest.
The system that controls whether you can thread a needle never works.
And the small window where you can see down to the bobbin is again made of some dubious plastic and looks very different from the rest of the machine.
Finally, there is this smart "I cut the thread for you," but it has to be cleaned very often to work, and you have to unscrew two screws. It could have been made smarter.