At 3:30 in the morning there's only 1 thing better than watching 1 of your videos. However at age 65 most of the early morning romps are over with, as is working on things while on the floor. Get a lift table son, your back will thank you for it later in life. Another great video, James. Thanks
And knees, I’m 27 but ignored all the back and knee stuff, now if I work leaning over something, I have to walk with my knees bent just to see in front of me for the day
I started watching your channel recently and I am impressed with your explanation of everything you are doing! You explain so well and why! Keep up the excellent work!!!
Quality work! Impressive how you make sure your builds are ready for really long service without issues. The attention to detail when dealing with the heat shielding issues on this machine was awesome!
I always learn something new when watching your videos and your calm, concise manner of troubleshooting is an easy way to spend some time learning generators. Thanks
Been turning wrenches for years. But I have found many of your tricks of the trade very useful and time savers. As always, much appreciate your videos and detailed approach.
Congratulations on a job very well done. You are one of the few I see using a breaker bar to loosen a bolt or nut. You did a lot of fixing and got a good heat shield so hopefully the overheating of the stator will not happen again. Great job. Thanks for the video.
Saw your hydraulic and brute technique. It’s educational and entertaining :) You know, we can use pneumatic technique. Pneumatic? When you have a chance get hold of a used nail gun. Use only blank but nail and shoot exhaust into the bolt cavity. Let me know what you think? Caveat? In this case we only have push force but push and pull. Can be compromised with pneumatic leak at the mussel and rotor shaft junction, a rubber washer may help. The best effect is to extend the mussel into the rotor shaft and in front of the motor shaft tip. Few drops of WD40 at the taper junction also help. Last but least - to protect crank shaft: pretension the rotor shaft outwards to provide axial displacement on crank shaft at the moment of separation.
Just finished two Briggs and Stratton units. Thanks for the insight to the heat shield. I didn't have a spare from another unit so I drilled out the pop rivet nearest the alternator then bent the shield away from the alternator to create some extra gap. I put in another pop rivet and then added a piece to extend the shield down and to the rear just enough to block the stator and fill in the slanted bottom bit. The extension was just light sheet metal bent and then pop riveted in place. These two generator repairs were possible because of watching your videos and seeing how things come apart and go back together. Not sure I would have just figured it out by trial and error without destroying something. Thanks.
As usual, I'm impressed by your work. Not only do you repair these, but you also re-engineer it too! The heat shield improvements are clever. Obviously, your experience helps you see weak design flaws from the manufacturers. They should send you new generators to preview for them! LOL, Powermate sends you a generator and asks "WWJD?". Watching your work always has a calming effect on me, thank you. And I do believe it's helping me be calmer when I work on small engines; I have more patience now. I still love the torque wrench use. You don't see that much anymore.
I only film a couple hours at a time, otherwise I would probably throw something across the room. Would love to preview and review new generators. Maybe someday someone at one of these manufacturers will think the same.
@@jcondon1 yes, especially GENERAC....they need some smartening up, in the engineering department, when it comes to COLD WEATHER OPERATION....cummins or nothing, i guess.
Another great video James. After following you for a few months I have decided to start filming and posting my own repairs. Learning something new every week.
Like your videos! You seem to be well informed concerning motor generators! The open wires looked more like overload but could be caused by grounding due to loss of insulation but that should be form-bar covering which is Hi-temp if memory is still working correctly. The short was probably at the break with the two wires shorting. Back in the day they would redip motor windings even if they were burned and call it rebuilt. They also used grooving irons in worn out tire treads and sold them as used tires. The windings can be repaired and redipped or even shellacked and they would work fine with heat shield installed! But, time and objective each being a factor? Just Ron
Great video James, the “Hybrid of Generators!” I Really enjoy your videos. I am a journeyman electrician and been working on small engines since I was a young kid. This past week I was using a torque wrench on all my terminations inside the equipment I was hooking up. The start-up rep from the company was so impressed when he saw me with a torque wrench, he said he’s never seen guys use a torque wrench! Lol!
Instead of using water to remove things you can drill a channel in the teflontaped bolt and fit in a greasecoupling in the bolthead and use the pressure in a greasegun to free things up If it is a big cavity to fill vith grease can you fill with water mount the bolt and use the greasegun as it is as a pressureraiser The pressure in a grease gun is 300 to 400 bar( 6000 psi ) ,a bit higher than the water pressure and it works well ;-)
I've always painted exhaust parts on racing cars with high temperature silver or white paint because it reflects the heat so more of it stays in the exhaust instead of radiating to the surrounding parts.
Man that's back breaking work bending over that thing. You should add a small ceiling hoist from HF to lift this up and set on a small table with wheels so you don't have to bend over. :) Thanks for the Vids!
Thanks for the way to transfer engine and stator generator power head. assembly. You make the job look easy. I will find out when I need to do the same. When you know how to mix and match parts is a plus.
Looking at that open circuited stator you could at a pinch go all Mustie1 or AvE and carefully free up the broken wires, solder in a small link to connect them up again then thoroughly insulate everything then put the coil back in service if it then tests OK. This is of course assuming that there are no other short or open circuit faults in the coils and that the previous heat soaking will not cause another failure in the future. I would also modify this generator and others of the same configuration with the muffler unshielded and close to the stator by adding a sheet metal heat shield between the muffler and the stator.
@jcondon1 this rotor removal reminded ne to recommend (Cheap Toilet Paper and Water mixture) instead of just water in cases like this.. Tganks Again Boss 🤝
I'm a day late on this one, but it now seems "JC Customs" would be a fitting name now that you are doing sheet metal work too! 😉 Meticulous attention to detail as usual. ESPECIALLY ensuring that the same engine didn't get a chance to ruin another stator! Good stuff and keep em coming. 👍
I sure do appreciate you filming your processes. Thank You! It's a shame that Subaru designed such a poor muffler when all they had to do was change the angle and length of the header pipe.
In a lot of cases, the engine manufacturer does not make the muffler. A lot of time the muffler part is shown on the generator parts diagram and not the engine parts diagram. You would think that would have kicked it out at least another inch.
i guess im randomly asking but does anybody know of a tool to get back into an instagram account? I was dumb forgot my password. I would love any help you can give me!
@Alfonso Baker i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and Im in the hacking process now. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
A word about heat shield. Black body take in and pass on heat better than shiny body. Black color work best on muffler and shiny body on heat shield. How far do we go out shielding? If ambient max is 100F and enamel soften at 300F we need 200F or less temperature rise above ambient plus a safe margin. That makes it 140F degrees rise. If ambient is 80F and rise limit is 140F then motor case temperature should measure 220F or less. Bare or anodized aluminum sheet can be good material in heat shield. Oxidized aluminum color is white, anodized is silvery. Oxidized iron and steel? Nearly black.
You should always smell the oil to make SURE it does NOT SMELL LIKE GASOLINE. After the needle and seat leaked-by in my old (20 plus years old, been a good one) Coleman Powermate 5000 and I found about a 1/2 of a gallon of mostly gas in the crankcase, I always do a smell check. An engine would not last long if it did get hot enough to explode or the spark plug ignite the gas vapors coming off of the oil and gas mixture in your crankcase. It would not run long even if the oil level looked a little too high to just below normal if it were 1/4 to 1/2 gasoline.😢😢
It is sad that Subaru stopped making small engines. They were far superior to Briggs and Kohler. They did not do a good job of marketing their engines. Now the only really good small engines are Honda’s.
Love your videos, I think it's great that you are so contentious about what you do. I just wanted to say that I have removed countless rotors by simply removing the centre bolt and striking the side where there are no windings with a length of 2x6. It comes off the taper every time. It's so easy and fast I am surprised that you don't do that.
Had tried that before and beat the thing senseless and did not come off. Of coarse it was the first one I tried to remove. Have learned a lot since then.
Great job creating that blend of components. I don't like your piece of wood and if you could weld, (I don't know what you have available) how about cutting off the engine cross support of the Storm Responder chassis and re-welding it in a lower position to provide a level assembly. You said you may just do a few more like that ... Just don't rely on the rubber mallet to separate the stator from the engine. There has to be a better way. Make a sketch of that heat shield before you sell that Brigaroo. Yes I agree with Wotknot ... You need a table lift if only to get it to roll onto a work bench.
Jim, if there's a plastics distributor in your area, you might check their throw away stuff to see what is useful to you. I would look for black stuff to make it look better. If need be, I could send you something that is useable to you. Also, FYI, TPI means threads per inch.
Great job but before I pulled that carb I would have at least blown off the carb with shop air and/or carb spray to keep all that dirt from entering the intake manifold and falling into the carb. I know you were going to use the ultrasonic but why let all that dirt get into the carb passages anyway and you can see what you are doing much better on a relatively clean carb. Also, that crankcase breather tube is supposed to feed back into the air filter box.
I have a great idea if they made the manufacturers of the gen give the generator buyer a several year garen Ty and make them fix the broken unit at there expense they would probably build a more beady unit !or give you half your money back ! Those burnt wires should have a heat shield or better insulation on the wires !
Did that more recently swapping a blown Briggs with a Yamaha. I liked it better, but some commented it will not last. Need to figure out something better.
It is possible. I found one issue with the crank gear that meshes with the cam. The key was worn and the gear not locked very well in place. Will take it apart again and check the pin and crank better.
The original one was square without a head shield (so all of the stator was an inch close). This one is a half inch closer, but it is round so only part of it is closer and is has a heat shield now. The original configuration lasted 10 years. This one should last longer.
Hey Jim if we label those space heaters with Watt value it will show up in video each time so we don’t need to edit wastage on the screen. What do you think?
Do you ever worry doing the rope trick that it has to be compression stroke for the piston to go up while the rope is in there making sure not to bend any valves while they are open? If the piston pushes on the rope during the exhaust stroke it may bend Exhaust valve if it reverses on a suction stroke it may bend suction valve
Never had in issue damaging the valves, but that is a concern. When torquing the rotor, it actually turns the engine backwards. So even if you setup on the compression stroke it will rotate back to the intake stroke. The sages test way would be to hold the flywheel in place with a strap wrench. Easier with two people.
Great video, I came over from Elemental Maker (also subbed) if you want a good plastic instead of wood, cutting boards are the cheapest source of UHMW that I've found and it has many uses.
You can tap the armature for a grease fitting and push it off with grease pressure or install the long bolt turned loose a couple of threads and strike it with a hammer or air hammer.
Tried the air hammer trick once without any luck, but agree it should work. Maybe my air hammer is not up to the task. With grease would be concerned about the difficultly of cleanup. Also would be impossible to get the air out. Not sure how well that would work.
You are a skilled guy and creative on you repairs. But you have stated that one must be observe polarity when installing the brushes. This is not correct. The generator will operate just fine with either polarity. Now if there is a diode buried in the brush assembly it won't work and probably cause the diode to fail. The diode would be for handling the collapsing field due to the VR response.
Muffler is still too close to gen head - and still no heat shield. Insulation of some kind seems to be the answer - or just keep a half dozen power heads in reserve.
Awesome as always! Two questions: 1) Is this what you do for a living, or is this a side hobby that makes a little money via generator sales? ... and ... 2) Wouldn’t your work be easier with a large bench or lift so you’re not having to work on the ground?
True, but would not want to sell it to someone. I would consider rewinding it, but unfortunately the manufacturers do not seem to publish anything on how to do that.
Water and a 1.0" of grease (at the top/end)..... Is there a reason that you don't clean (powerwash) the engine when it's out of the frame? BTW: Bolts have a tightening spec based on their size/grade. Meaning there is a chart.
James, excellent videos! To avoid this exhaust heat issue with the stator, do they make a heat shield we can install to protect it? If so, which one? Thanks!
hi james as always great sitting in your class ,you say you keep finding heating with this exhaust kills the stator then briggs and stratton need to look at this and try putting a thin and longer model exhaust on its models maybe mate
Instead of hydraulic pop off on the stator crank why not just cut the bolt off and grind a screwdriver slot in the end. Then you can keep that cutoff bolt that fits those threads for that stator. Seems like they have no standard on these stators.
That wire is magnet wire and coated with varnish. Would need more slack to bend the wire out and remove the varnish before it would be possible to solder. Did not see how that could be done with what was left. Plus the wire that was left probably had degraded varnish due to the heat. Would be better to just rewind the stator.
3 questions: (1) why not just move the powerhead from the Storm Responder onto the Powermate frame? (2) is it possible to fi the broken stator? (3) what can a homeowner do to insulate the stator from the heat of the exhaust to prevent the problem you showed us from happening?
1) The Husky frame is small and probably would not accommodate the larger stator, the frame Powermate frame was labeled 5000 watts, The powermate frame was rusty, wanted to use the briggs heat shield, the storm responder has a larger tank, also the stator wiring harness plugs into a Briggs outlet box. Could be connected to the Powermate, but would have involved cutting and splicing wires. Most of those reasons were not show stoppers except the larger size of the stator. 2) Not possible to fix that stator 3) If its a subaru EX30 engine then the heat shield I ended up using will work on most. Otherwise would advise to not but a generator with the exhaust so close to the stator unless it is shielded. But if you have one, you can always buy some sheet metal and rivets and bend something up.
So if someone has one of these Powermates with very low hour. They might extend its life by installing some kind of heat shield between the muffler and power head.
Forget how I did it in this video, but you can put a finger over the spark plug hole (not in) and rotate the engine. When compression starts coming out of the hole you are on the compression stroke. Just keep rotating until the piston is at the top.
At 3:30 in the morning there's only 1 thing better than watching 1 of your videos. However at age 65 most of the early morning romps are over with, as is working on things while on the floor. Get a lift table son, your back will thank you for it later in life. Another great video, James. Thanks
And knees, I’m 27 but ignored all the back and knee stuff, now if I work leaning over something, I have to walk with my knees bent just to see in front of me for the day
such a treat to not be interrupted every five minutes with commercials. cheers
I started watching your channel recently and I am impressed with your explanation of everything you are doing! You explain so well and why! Keep up the excellent work!!!
Quality work! Impressive how you make sure your builds are ready for really long service without issues. The attention to detail when dealing with the heat shielding issues on this machine was awesome!
The amount of care and precision you executive is astounding. Very nice.
Yeah, thank god there are people around like James, this should be the standard.
A true crafts man that has pride in his work !!
@@v-g-z3689 yes!
I always learn something new when watching your videos and your calm, concise manner of troubleshooting is an easy way to spend some time learning generators. Thanks
Grease would likely work to remove the rotor. Hammering on the side of the rotor could cause excessive runout and a rotor/stator rub.
This might not be the same thing, but for removing a golf kart clutch I found bread to work the best. It sounds weird but it worked the best for me.
True, but he wasn't ever going to use that rotor again so he was concerned about damage in this case.
Been turning wrenches for years. But I have found many of your tricks of the trade very useful and time savers. As always, much appreciate your videos and detailed approach.
Congratulations on a job very well done. You are one of the few I see using a breaker bar to loosen a bolt or nut. You did a lot of fixing and got a good heat shield so hopefully the overheating of the stator will not happen again. Great job. Thanks for the video.
Sweet you got the power head off water no go oil no go BFH works
Saw your hydraulic and brute technique. It’s educational and entertaining :)
You know, we can use pneumatic technique.
Pneumatic? When you have a chance get hold of a used nail gun. Use only blank but nail and shoot exhaust into the bolt cavity. Let me know what you think?
Caveat? In this case we only have push force but push and pull. Can be compromised with pneumatic leak at the mussel and rotor shaft junction, a rubber washer may help. The best effect is to extend the mussel into the rotor shaft and in front of the motor shaft tip. Few drops of WD40 at the taper junction also help. Last but least - to protect crank shaft: pretension the rotor shaft outwards to provide axial displacement on crank shaft at the moment of separation.
Just finished two Briggs and Stratton units. Thanks for the insight to the heat shield. I didn't have a spare from another unit so I drilled out the pop rivet nearest the alternator then bent the shield away from the alternator to create some extra gap. I put in another pop rivet and then added a piece to extend the shield down and to the rear just enough to block the stator and fill in the slanted bottom bit. The extension was just light sheet metal bent and then pop riveted in place. These two generator repairs were possible because of watching your videos and seeing how things come apart and go back together. Not sure I would have just figured it out by trial and error without destroying something. Thanks.
If I tol you once I will say it again…sir your very smart… the way you figure out problems is amazing!!!
I wonder if those burned wires could be jumpered with extensions maybe using crimping, and if not solder?
So do I.
Thanks for the video. I learned a lot. One criticism… I can’t endorse WD-40 as a cutting oil.
As usual, I'm impressed by your work. Not only do you repair these, but you also re-engineer it too! The heat shield improvements are clever. Obviously, your experience helps you see weak design flaws from the manufacturers. They should send you new generators to preview for them! LOL, Powermate sends you a generator and asks "WWJD?". Watching your work always has a calming effect on me, thank you. And I do believe it's helping me be calmer when I work on small engines; I have more patience now.
I still love the torque wrench use. You don't see that much anymore.
I only film a couple hours at a time, otherwise I would probably throw something across the room. Would love to preview and review new generators. Maybe someday someone at one of these manufacturers will think the same.
@@jcondon1 yes, especially GENERAC....they need some smartening up, in the engineering department, when it comes to COLD WEATHER OPERATION....cummins or nothing, i guess.
Briggaru Powerstorn is legitimately a bad to the bone name for a gen-set 🤘🏻Awesome video s always brother, love the kinda work you do!
You can also get the allen head bolts at home depot in the lengthyou need even tractor supply has them bolts also @34:28
I would consider making some type of sheaf shield if nothing but a sheet of tin/sheet metal.
Another great video James. After following you for a few months I have decided to start filming and posting my own repairs. Learning something new every week.
Like your videos! You seem to be well informed concerning motor generators! The open wires looked more like overload but could be caused by grounding due to loss of insulation but that should be form-bar covering which is Hi-temp if memory is still working correctly. The short was probably at the break with the two wires shorting. Back in the day they would redip motor windings even if they were burned and call it rebuilt. They also used grooving irons in worn out tire treads and sold them as used tires. The windings can be repaired and redipped or even shellacked and they would work fine with heat shield installed! But, time and objective each being a factor? Just Ron
Great video James, the “Hybrid of Generators!” I
Really enjoy your videos. I am a journeyman electrician and been working on small engines since I was a young kid. This past week I was using a torque wrench on all my terminations inside the equipment I was hooking up. The start-up rep from the company was so impressed when he saw me with a torque wrench, he said he’s never seen guys use a torque wrench! Lol!
That is awesome!
Instead of using water to remove things you can drill a channel in the teflontaped bolt and fit in a greasecoupling in the bolthead and use the pressure in a greasegun to free things up If it is a big cavity to fill vith grease can you fill with water mount the bolt and use the greasegun as it is as a pressureraiser The pressure in a grease gun is 300 to 400 bar( 6000 psi ) ,a bit higher than the water pressure and it works well ;-)
Great job engineering on NO heat shield for the stator.
Another Awesome Video James, thanks for taking us along. Great Job.
Thanks 👍
I would have bend the exhaust shield and screw it to the metal frame (the first grey one). Nice vid, thanks.
I love the magic of the impact wrench/driver.
That exhaust on the suburu also looks like a briggs and stratton exhaust not just the spark arrestor plate @James Condon
I've always painted exhaust parts on racing cars with high temperature silver or white paint because it reflects the heat so more of it stays in the exhaust instead of radiating to the surrounding parts.
Man that's back breaking work bending over that thing. You should add a small ceiling hoist from HF to lift this up and set on a small table with wheels so you don't have to bend over. :) Thanks for the Vids!
Thanks for the way to transfer engine and stator generator power head. assembly. You make the job look easy. I will find out when I need to do the same. When you know how to mix and match parts is a plus.
Looking at that open circuited stator you could at a pinch go all Mustie1 or AvE and carefully free up the broken wires, solder in a small link to connect them up again then thoroughly insulate everything then put the coil back in service if it then tests OK. This is of course assuming that there are no other short or open circuit faults in the coils and that the previous heat soaking will not cause another failure in the future. I would also modify this generator and others of the same configuration with the muffler unshielded and close to the stator by adding a sheet metal heat shield between the muffler and the stator.
@jcondon1 this rotor removal reminded ne to recommend (Cheap Toilet Paper and Water mixture) instead of just water in cases like this..
Tganks Again Boss 🤝
Would it not have been easier to remove the rust from the muffler if you took it off first?
I'm a day late on this one, but it now seems "JC Customs" would be a fitting name now that you are doing sheet metal work too! 😉 Meticulous attention to detail as usual. ESPECIALLY ensuring that the same engine didn't get a chance to ruin another stator! Good stuff and keep em coming. 👍
Thanks Eric. Will be starting work on the PowerBack soon...
@@jcondon1 Oh cool. I'm surprised that you have it already.
@@ericvaughn1126 you and me both. Should have it in a couple days.
I sure do appreciate you filming your processes. Thank You! It's a shame that Subaru designed such a poor muffler when all they had to do was change the angle and length of the header pipe.
In a lot of cases, the engine manufacturer does not make the muffler. A lot of time the muffler part is shown on the generator parts diagram and not the engine parts diagram. You would think that would have kicked it out at least another inch.
If you sand even lightly before painting, it won't peel as quickly.
That power head just don't want to come off does it wow lol
You could also treat the muffler with 3M rust converter. Then apply a suitable final coating.
Once again an outstanding fix and finish. Love the modifications you made to make everything fit just right. Alot of hard work will pay off.
i guess im randomly asking but does anybody know of a tool to get back into an instagram account?
I was dumb forgot my password. I would love any help you can give me!
@Joseph Westin Instablaster ;)
@Alfonso Baker i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and Im in the hacking process now.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Alfonso Baker it worked and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thanks so much, you saved my account :D
@Joseph Westin you are welcome :)
Gm and Subaru had worked together for a while when GM owned Saab. One model of that car came with a Subaru engine and it was dubbed a Saabaru.
A word about heat shield. Black body take in and pass on heat better than shiny body. Black color work best on muffler and shiny body on heat shield.
How far do we go out shielding? If ambient max is 100F and enamel soften at 300F we need 200F or less temperature rise above ambient plus a safe margin. That makes it 140F degrees rise. If ambient is 80F and rise limit is 140F then motor case temperature should measure 220F or less.
Bare or anodized aluminum sheet can be good material in heat shield. Oxidized aluminum color is white, anodized is silvery. Oxidized iron and steel? Nearly black.
Great work as always! If the exhaust is that close, you could use exhaust wrap to cut the heat off!
You should always smell the oil to make SURE it does NOT SMELL LIKE GASOLINE. After the needle and seat leaked-by in my old (20 plus years old, been a good one) Coleman Powermate 5000 and I found about a 1/2 of a gallon of mostly gas in the crankcase, I always do a smell check. An engine would not last long if it did get hot enough to explode or the spark plug ignite the gas vapors coming off of the oil and gas mixture in your crankcase. It would not run long even if the oil level looked a little too high to just below normal if it were 1/4 to 1/2 gasoline.😢😢
I need a mechanic like you to work on my power equipment. Great job.
Thanks 👍
As usual, another great video from the Generator Whisperer!
not sure how i feel about the wood but good video thanks keep em coming
I feel the same way. Wish I had something better for that.
It is sad that Subaru stopped making small engines. They were far superior to Briggs and Kohler. They did not do a good job of marketing their engines. Now the only really good small engines are Honda’s.
Love your videos, I think it's great that you are so contentious about what you do. I just wanted to say that I have removed countless rotors by simply removing the centre bolt and striking the side where there are no windings with a length of 2x6. It comes off the taper every time. It's so easy and fast I am surprised that you don't do that.
Had tried that before and beat the thing senseless and did not come off. Of coarse it was the first one I tried to remove. Have learned a lot since then.
Great job creating that blend of components. I don't like your piece of wood and if you could weld, (I don't know what you have available) how about cutting off the engine cross support of the Storm Responder chassis and re-welding it in a lower position to provide a level assembly.
You said you may just do a few more like that ... Just don't rely on the rubber mallet to separate the stator from the engine. There has to be a better way.
Make a sketch of that heat shield before you sell that Brigaroo.
Yes I agree with Wotknot ... You need a table lift if only to get it to roll onto a work bench.
Just did another one recently and was able to eliminate the block of wood. ruclips.net/video/xlsTJcJxTqw/видео.html
You need to use a flex socket for the bolts in tight spots.
Excellent video...very educational....thank you
Jim, if there's a plastics distributor in your area, you might check their throw away stuff to see what is useful to you. I would look for black stuff to make it look better. If need be, I could send you something that is useable to you.
Also, FYI, TPI means threads per inch.
Doc, that engine sounds great. Your right that combination is a good one.
Great rebuild and recap on the orginal video and build
Thanks
Great work James and fine genny😊
Again, well done and thank-you.
I wonder if there are any exhast mufflers that crank outwzrds to give more didtance from the stator.
Very interesting James loving how you talk your way through and show us what you find and great engine swap nice idea take care James
Great job but before I pulled that carb I would have at least blown off the carb with shop air and/or carb spray to keep all that dirt from entering the intake manifold and falling into the carb.
I know you were going to use the ultrasonic but why let all that dirt get into the carb passages anyway and you can see what you are doing much better on a relatively clean carb.
Also, that crankcase breather tube is supposed to feed back into the air filter box.
How about trying an autobody dent puller? Tread it in and slide hammer on it.
We learn every day, thank you for your video's. Greetings from Dublin Ireland bless you.
I have a great idea if they made the manufacturers of the gen give the generator buyer a several year garen
Ty and make them fix the broken unit at there expense they would probably build a more beady unit !or give you half your money back ! Those burnt wires should have a heat shield or better insulation on the wires !
Good job, sound like a fun project! Id like to get into fixing and flipping small engines too.
Use car header tape for heat shielding. Much superior.
Hello James, grettings from Germany. Great job like always but please use some Steel or Aluminium Spacers for the Mountings.
Did that more recently swapping a blown Briggs with a Yamaha. I liked it better, but some commented it will not last. Need to figure out something better.
@@jcondon1 Maybey try some PTFE and glue some Rubber mats like they are used on heave trailers to secure loading .
I just had a thought, maybe the knock was related to the wrist/piston pin?
like maybe it was loose in some way?
It is possible. I found one issue with the crank gear that meshes with the cam. The key was worn and the gear not locked very well in place. Will take it apart again and check the pin and crank better.
@@jcondon1 looking forward to your video on investigating the cause of the knock issue so we can learn from it 👍
hi james you put a lot of time in on this one but with a good combine of parts you got a great gene out it good job mate
When all else fails "Get a Bigger Hammer" ! Lol
Hi James the exhaust is even closer on this stator - you must do something to change how it fits or it will cause the stator to fail!
The original one was square without a head shield (so all of the stator was an inch close). This one is a half inch closer, but it is round so only part of it is closer and is has a heat shield now. The original configuration lasted 10 years. This one should last longer.
I was wondering when you were just going to hit the stator, you could probably wobble it with your hand to eventually get it off.
Great job, a lot of work but well worth it!
Briggaru got me lol. But hey this is a very good and informative video....
Great job James, maybe look into a sticker or even a stencil " Franklin-Condon " or " Condon-Franklin " if you prefer
Hey Jim if we label those space heaters with Watt value it will show up in video each time so we don’t need to edit wastage on the screen. What do you think?
You should of used a steel spacer instead of wood because it rots when you have it out in wet locations
Nice job man. Always quality content
At the end defenitly sounds like the heat shield is rattling to me but I could be wrong
Do you ever worry doing the rope trick that it has to be compression stroke for the piston to go up while the rope is in there
making sure not to bend any valves while they are open?
If the piston pushes on the rope during the exhaust stroke it may bend Exhaust valve if it reverses on a suction stroke it may bend suction valve
Never had in issue damaging the valves, but that is a concern. When torquing the rotor, it actually turns the engine backwards. So even if you setup on the compression stroke it will rotate back to the intake stroke. The sages test way would be to hold the flywheel in place with a strap wrench. Easier with two people.
Great video, I came over from Elemental Maker (also subbed) if you want a good plastic instead of wood, cutting boards are the cheapest source of UHMW that I've found and it has many uses.
Thanks, Will check it out. Have recently improved the spacer design, video forthcoming soon.
Always interesting James thanks 🇦🇺👍
I would have tried to splice those couple of burned wires
very good, thank you
Great job James , You made a good machine there ! ENJOYED
You can tap the armature for a grease fitting and push it off with grease pressure or install the long bolt turned loose a couple of threads and strike it with a hammer or air hammer.
Tried the air hammer trick once without any luck, but agree it should work. Maybe my air hammer is not up to the task. With grease would be concerned about the difficultly of cleanup. Also would be impossible to get the air out. Not sure how well that would work.
sure you could fix those 3 or 4 wires, lift, bridge shrink wrap ect ect. maybe that was the weak spot, and the fault was deep in the stator...
The wires are all glues together with varnish. Even if I could bridge it, would never sell it to someone. Would feel awful when it fails.
You are a skilled guy and creative on you repairs. But you have stated that one must be observe polarity when installing the brushes. This is not correct. The generator will operate just fine with either polarity. Now if there is a diode buried in the brush assembly it won't work and probably cause the diode to fail. The diode would be for handling the collapsing field due to the VR response.
THAT IS NO BIG DEAL FOR MY FRIENDS IN MEXICO THEY CAN REWIND THAT AND MAKE IT NEW
Muffler is still too close to gen head - and still no heat shield. Insulation of some kind seems to be the answer - or just keep a half dozen power heads in reserve.
Awesome as always! Two questions:
1) Is this what you do for a living, or is this a side hobby that makes a little money via generator sales? ... and ...
2) Wouldn’t your work be easier with a large bench or lift so you’re not having to work on the ground?
This is a just a hobby to make a little money on the side. I have a bench, but no lift table yet. A lift would be useful.
You can repair those burnt stator turns,nothing to loose.
True, but would not want to sell it to someone. I would consider rewinding it, but unfortunately the manufacturers do not seem to publish anything on how to do that.
Water and a 1.0" of grease (at the top/end)..... Is there a reason that you don't clean (powerwash) the engine when it's out of the frame? BTW: Bolts have a tightening spec based on their size/grade. Meaning there is a chart.
James, excellent videos! To avoid this exhaust heat issue with the stator, do they make a heat shield we can install to protect it? If so, which one? Thanks!
hi james as always great sitting in your class ,you say you keep finding heating with this exhaust kills the stator then briggs and stratton need to look at this and try putting a thin and longer model exhaust on its models maybe mate
Why is it okay that the heat shield between the stator and the muffler has holes in it?
Instead of hydraulic pop off on the stator crank why not just cut the bolt off and grind a screwdriver slot in the end. Then you can keep that cutoff bolt that fits those threads for that stator. Seems like they have no standard on these stators.
Hi James ? Why couldn't the wires be soldered back together and also insulated like any other copper ?
That wire is magnet wire and coated with varnish. Would need more slack to bend the wire out and remove the varnish before it would be possible to solder. Did not see how that could be done with what was left. Plus the wire that was left probably had degraded varnish due to the heat. Would be better to just rewind the stator.
do not forget your never seize
3 questions: (1) why not just move the powerhead from the Storm Responder onto the Powermate frame? (2) is it possible to fi the broken stator? (3) what can a homeowner do to insulate the stator from the heat of the exhaust to prevent the problem you showed us from happening?
1) The Husky frame is small and probably would not accommodate the larger stator, the frame Powermate frame was labeled 5000 watts, The powermate frame was rusty, wanted to use the briggs heat shield, the storm responder has a larger tank, also the stator wiring harness plugs into a Briggs outlet box. Could be connected to the Powermate, but would have involved cutting and splicing wires. Most of those reasons were not show stoppers except the larger size of the stator. 2) Not possible to fix that stator 3) If its a subaru EX30 engine then the heat shield I ended up using will work on most. Otherwise would advise to not but a generator with the exhaust so close to the stator unless it is shielded. But if you have one, you can always buy some sheet metal and rivets and bend something up.
So if someone has one of these Powermates with very low hour. They might extend its life by installing some kind of heat shield between the muffler and power head.
...another fan, to cool stator, as its in the steel.....maybe a copper heatsink with fins, , strung around it, with a fan
How digit find the compression stroke without the valve cover off.
Forget how I did it in this video, but you can put a finger over the spark plug hole (not in) and rotate the engine. When compression starts coming out of the hole you are on the compression stroke. Just keep rotating until the piston is at the top.