14 BOLT AXLE REGEAR AND PINION SET UP (part 2) - Project Maple Leaf Jeep Build (no. 9)
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- This video will show you the next step in our 14 bolt regear…how to set up the new pinion, pinion bearings, and pinion bearing preload.
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WarPaintoffroa...
The seal used with out yoke is part number….
21955
Links:
CLAMSHELL BEARING REMOVAL TOOL
www.amazon.com...
IMPACT GUN
www.amazon.com...
MINI SLEDGE HAMMER
Buy locally at any Hardware store
TORQUE WRENCH
www.amazon.com...
12 TON PRESS
www.amazon.com...
BEARING DRIVER SET
www.amazon.com...
GLOVES
www.amazon.com...
EYE PROTECTION
www.amazon.com...
SEAL REMOVER
www.amazon.com...
INCH POUND TORQUE WRENCH
www.amazon.com...
BRASS PUNCH SET
www.amazon.com...
DIGITAL CALIPERS
www.amazon.com...
***Disclaimer*** This video is just meant to show how I do it. Injury may occur by trying to replicate what is in this video. Attempt at your own risk, with proper equipment and training.
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Definitely a lot more work but still not all that difficult. Just lots of steps. Exactly what you said. Great video, lots of detail. Good stuff man. I’m really excited and looking forward to the welding of the brackets and setting up the suspension!!!!
ABAOLUTELY! Thanks for the support, as always man. Almost done with the 14 bolt. Haven’t had a chance to work on it for a few days. But I’ll have the final video put on Tuesday.
That larger ID seal is the newer 2 piece style seal. It utilizes an inner sleeve that acts as a wear point in order to protect the yoke. The older style seal eventually wears a groove in the yoke, resulting in a leak and the need to either repair the yoke or replace it. This is at least the issue I have just ran into. I'm now switching to the newer style 2 piece seal.
So I think you are confused about something. The pinion seal was never a 2 piece design like you mention. It has to do with the size of the yoke. The OD of the smaller 1350 yoke doesn’t fit in the standard gear replacing seal. That is because the standard yoke on a 14 bolt is the 1410 and it’s a larger diameter.. the two seals are exactly the same. One just is a bit larger. The design is no different.
Thanks for all the video and editing! It’s been great to learn, I want to do my one ton swap on as much of a budget as possible. That is without being a cheapskate and throwing junk eBay parts in it.
Thanks for the support! And right on! This is a great way to do it. Depending on the year of the jeep the auto locker like a grizzly is a great way to save some cash. But I’ll be showing an air locker in the Dana 60 when I’m done with the 14 bolt. So either way I’ll show how to do them too. There is also going to be a small truss on the rear that I’ll show how to set up for angles and such. So it should helps this is truly a budget but with quality build. The suspension is going to catch a lot of people by surprise…but will be cheap.
@@WarPaintOffroad Hell yeah! I’ll definitely be watching all the videos. I’m going to be doing an LS swap in my 1999 Cherokee first, but after that I want to plan a one ton swap.
@@WarPaintOffroad I also forgot to ask, what do people do for the wheels since the bolt pattern is different from GM 14 bolt to Ford Dana 60?
@@jordantrujillo293 so I’ll be getting to that. But the 14 bolt is also narrower than the D60. So a wheel adapter/spacer is what everyone uses. A 1.5 on each side will give it the same width as the front and convert it to the ford bolt pattern.
Great job! Looking forward to part three.
Thanks Vic! Thanks for the support! Part 3 will be out on Soon for sure! Then onto the D60.
Use the old outer pinion bearing as a “set up bearing” (google making a set-up bearing if you don’t know)… so you don’t have to keep pressing bearings off and on… then also use the new crush sleeve first and crush it, then pull it back out and use it as your starting gauge for the solid spacer measurement “crush sleeve eliminator”. It will save you a bunch of time.
Yea. You could definitely do it that way. And I have. But I wanted to show people this way of doing it. It’s not that hard when you use the old crush sleeve as a starting point. And pressing the bearing off gives you a more accurate reading than use the old bearing which in my case was pretty worn. But I’ll be using set up bearings in the D60 for sure.
Press out seal with bearing fromm backside = reusable seal...
At 22:30 in the video you press on the second bearing and stop when it "seats". But really, the pushing of this bearing into the crush washer (in my case) is what setups up the pre-load right? So at that point I'd have to be careful when to stop pushing that bearing in I assume. But, using my press I could actually set the pre-load versus trying to squish it it all together with the nut and yoke assembly, correct? Then I'd put the nut and yoke assemble on with trying not to compress it anymore. I just hear its really tough to compress the crush washer with the nut and some people go as far as pre-crushing the crush washer in the press first, then installing it on the pinion shaft. If my tools come in tomorrow I'll be attempting this.
You are correct. So I put it in because I was using shims. But if you are putting it on with a crush sleeve, then you COULD put it on the way you are saying. However, the traditional way and probably the more accurate way is to use a good strong impact gun and tighten it down and then check. Tbh, what I would attempt is to just start crushing the washer with the press…the. Do the rest to dial it in with the impact.
@@WarPaintOffroad Yup I agree and will do it the way you mention. Pre-crush then impact. Seems easier and I have access to a beast of an impact if I should need it. Thanks!
Great job. Subscribed.
Thanks for the support! Should have a video up soon finishing the rear suspension on that leafspring jku. Almost done.
@@WarPaintOffroad cool. Seems like we do some of the same stuff. I am about to do a gear swap on my 14bolt for
Our race truck. You do a great job explaining everything. Very helpful. Will credit you in my videos.
Great videos for sure! One question, how would you press off the inner bearing if you needed too? Would the clam shell press you are showing work for that, or would you need a different style press?
The clamshell press would work with this. You MIGHT mess up the cage on the bearing. But the clamshell would work.
@@WarPaintOffroad For me that should be fine since I'm replacing the bearing,if thats what you mean by "cage" on the bearing. Thanks for the fast reply!! I can't believe you don't have a lot more thumbs up for these extremely well put together videos. Do you teach or something for a living?
I know this is an older video, but i just did this today, and I am using a sleeve adapter on my yoke to be able to run the triple lip seal. Not a good idea?
My understanding is that "sleeve" is not an adapter, but more so a protector. The sleeve acts as a wear point so that the outer seal doesn't wear a groove into the yoke. I've run into that issue myself and switching to the newer 2 piece setup.