Hey you can always go stainless bolts if you want the timing cover to be pretty. Also I dont wanna be the person to tell yah you might need to take the cam out but you might wanna take it out and put a moly based lube on all the lobes for when you do your break in procedure when the motor gets all ready to go. Also would add the moly past on all components of the value train. I.e. cam lobes, bottom of lifters, push rods, rockers, and rocker tips that touch the vavle tip.
Yeah I have access to cam lobes from the top. I waited to lube the valve train until the pan was on so I didn’t drip the assembly lube all over my floor 😂. Stainless isn’t a bad idea- just another rabbit hole to get sucked into.
5:48 For the crank sprocket the No 1 piston has to be at TDC. Does the exhaust valve for No 1 need to be open for the cam sprocket? It all self aligns as long as No 1 piston is TDC?
Right, but the lobe position is automatically set at open when the dots are aligned from TDC on No 1? I think that this is the case. Nothing needs to be "indexed" beyond this... @@motolayne
How much front and back movement should the cam have? The thrust plate has oil holes in it for lubrication. I have two timing sets and the clearances are way different. The stock setup has very little clearance and the HD set has quite a lot. Two or three times the original. Is there a max clearance spec for this? Thanks!
Thanks. There is a measurable amount of front/back movement, on the stock setup, that can be felt by pulling and pushing on the gear, but it's in the thousandths like rod clearance. You can hear it click, but it's very small. I appreciate the confirmation. @@motolayne
Recommend you check out home depot for the gold Zinc bolts. They have a great selection. Or if you want to paint them, (trying to provide ideas, not a shameless plug) later in this video, I paint the bolt tops for my driveshaft... might be an idea. ruclips.net/video/V4B78yD-f3Y/видео.html
Wow I’m seriously jealous of your LJ. Definitely a jeep I want to build at some point. I decided to leave them un coated. It’s a jeep after all and they’ll just be dirty in a drive or two. How do you like your Adam’s driveshaft? I think I’m leaning towards them as opposed to local or woods.
also i’m thinking about doing a comp cam in my zj 4.0, and i don’t know how a cam will affect the timing of the engine and if i need to advance it or not
The holes in the block are like grooves and the holes in the bearings are round. Is there a best way to locate the bearing holes to the grooves in the block?
The crank bearings will align themselves with the tang on the bearing. The cam bearings were installed by the machine shop, so they just put the holes in the middle of the groove.
@@motolayne dude i spent the money yes anything will make hp but cost of hp i had a stroker 4.6 spun bearing if you dont beleive you will not bashing on you just what i know
Hey you can always go stainless bolts if you want the timing cover to be pretty. Also I dont wanna be the person to tell yah you might need to take the cam out but you might wanna take it out and put a moly based lube on all the lobes for when you do your break in procedure when the motor gets all ready to go. Also would add the moly past on all components of the value train. I.e. cam lobes, bottom of lifters, push rods, rockers, and rocker tips that touch the vavle tip.
Yeah I have access to cam lobes from the top. I waited to lube the valve train until the pan was on so I didn’t drip the assembly lube all over my floor 😂. Stainless isn’t a bad idea- just another rabbit hole to get sucked into.
Cool. Now I know how to clean bolts.
5:48 For the crank sprocket the No 1 piston has to be at TDC. Does the exhaust valve for No 1 need to be open for the cam sprocket? It all self aligns as long as No 1 piston is TDC?
The head isn’t on when you’re doing this step. The cam needs to rotate freely to align the markings on each of the sprockets.
Right, but the lobe position is automatically set at open when the dots are aligned from TDC on No 1? I think that this is the case. Nothing needs to be "indexed" beyond this... @@motolayne
Don't forget the gasket of the timing chain cover 😉
“my wife has had health problems blah blah blah” that’s a good marriage right there
How much front and back movement should the cam have? The thrust plate has oil holes in it for lubrication. I have two timing sets and the clearances are way different. The stock setup has very little clearance and the HD set has quite a lot. Two or three times the original. Is there a max clearance spec for this? Thanks!
@tmmyjay my service manual camshaft endplay should be none. I’d stick to your stock setup brother.
Thanks. There is a measurable amount of front/back movement, on the stock setup, that can be felt by pulling and pushing on the gear, but it's in the thousandths like rod clearance. You can hear it click, but it's very small. I appreciate the confirmation. @@motolayne
Recommend you check out home depot for the gold Zinc bolts. They have a great selection. Or if you want to paint them, (trying to provide ideas, not a shameless plug) later in this video, I paint the bolt tops for my driveshaft... might be an idea.
ruclips.net/video/V4B78yD-f3Y/видео.html
Wow I’m seriously jealous of your LJ. Definitely a jeep I want to build at some point. I decided to leave them un coated. It’s a jeep after all and they’ll just be dirty in a drive or two.
How do you like your Adam’s driveshaft? I think I’m leaning towards them as opposed to local or woods.
also i’m thinking about doing a comp cam in my zj 4.0, and i don’t know how a cam will affect the timing of the engine and if i need to advance it or not
The holes in the block are like grooves and the holes in the bearings are round. Is there a best way to locate the bearing holes to the grooves in the block?
The crank bearings will align themselves with the tang on the bearing. The cam bearings were installed by the machine shop, so they just put the holes in the middle of the groove.
Thanks. I wonder why no one ever mentions this. Seems like there would be a best place to align the cam bearings...@@motolayne
I’ll definitely have to take a look on the next Stroker build!
Think you need bigger hammer 😂
Bet those bearings are all gouged up
just put a v8 spend a bubch of money get a little more power trust me been there
I will not be trusting anyone that says “jUsT v8 sWaP iT” 😂 $4k to stroke, $10k+ to LS correctly
@@motolayne dude i spent the money yes anything will make hp but cost of hp i had a stroker 4.6 spun bearing if you dont beleive you will not bashing on you just what i know