So, quick note. I'm a begining wood worker, so take this with a fistfull of salt. BUT, after speaking witha luthier (guitar maker) he mentioned that they do the same obviously for guitars. A trick that he mentioned worked really well, (other than using softer wood) is water. He mentioned he sprays with an atomizer/spray bottle, the portion that is to be bent. He'll do ti ta few times before bending. And a few times during and after. Nothing too crazy, just enough to saturate, but not enough to drip. It tends to make the wood more flexible and in the end, once its dry, it looks and does the same. He says, "remember, the wood is a bit of a living organism still" lol
He is right, a little water, a little water and heat or steam makes it much more flexible, I bet he even knows how to calculate the amount of material to remove so you can glue the kerfs together for a much stronger curve.
If you do the math and remove the difference of material between the outside radius and inside radius over the distance you can glue the kerfs, no need to use a form it is much stronger then the guess and cut method.
Sorry to be so off topic but does any of you know a method to get back into an instagram account..? I was dumb lost my login password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me
@Jadiel Emmanuel I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im trying it out now. Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
If you remove the amount of material between the outside radius and inside radius you can put glue in the kerf cuts and it is pretty strong. A little math makes a much stronger curve that you dont have to put it around a form. (find out the outside radius and the find the inside radius the difference is the amount of material you need to remove by cutting evenly spaced kerfs over that distance) A little water, steam is even better and as a last resort a little heat will increase flexibility.
So we get to see the cutting of an unsuccessful broken piece... then when it's actually a successful piece, we don't get to see it cut... nor even the "new depth" that allowed the wood to bend in the first place as opposed to "just snapping in half"? No visual reference between good and bad? Great... Will keep searching. (also makes me question the entire thing when we're told to make kerf cuts at "about 1/16th of an inch of material left" and then we see the first cuts and they're the remaining material is about the SAME SIZE AS THE SAWBLADE'S THICKNESS which we're told was 1/8" of an inch. No wonder why people keep asking for "bendywood" to be stocked.
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Thank you for this video!!! I managed to kurf bend panels for my wall using your instructions!
So, quick note. I'm a begining wood worker, so take this with a fistfull of salt. BUT, after speaking witha luthier (guitar maker) he mentioned that they do the same obviously for guitars. A trick that he mentioned worked really well, (other than using softer wood) is water. He mentioned he sprays with an atomizer/spray bottle, the portion that is to be bent. He'll do ti ta few times before bending. And a few times during and after. Nothing too crazy, just enough to saturate, but not enough to drip. It tends to make the wood more flexible and in the end, once its dry, it looks and does the same. He says, "remember, the wood is a bit of a living organism still" lol
He is right, a little water, a little water and heat or steam makes it much more flexible, I bet he even knows how to calculate the amount of material to remove so you can glue the kerfs together for a much stronger curve.
Very clear and helpful. Thank you.
Nice work!
Brilliant idea.....Also good to show your errors as it makes DIYers feel better when they do the same. 👍🏼
Thanks Allan -- I wish we would have had the cameras rolling when that piece cracked! Might have had to bleep out a couple of words there, though!
Glue...do you fill the kerfs with it as part of the final assembly for additional strength of the bend?
That's what I've always heard. I was wondering the same thing.
I would pour fiberglass to fill the kerf
If you do the math and remove the difference of material between the outside radius and inside radius over the distance you can glue the kerfs, no need to use a form it is much stronger then the guess and cut method.
Very beautiful 👏👏👏👏
Great explanation and demo. Thank you!
Sorry to be so off topic but does any of you know a method to get back into an instagram account..?
I was dumb lost my login password. I appreciate any assistance you can give me
@Kai Zaid instablaster =)
@Jadiel Emmanuel I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im trying it out now.
Takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Jadiel Emmanuel It did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thank you so much, you saved my account :D
@Kai Zaid glad I could help :)
Would getting the wood damp first make it more flexible?
Yes moisture would help steam works great, even a little heat if you cant get water will make it take a curve better.
Nice explanation I like it.
Merci ! 👍
If you remove the amount of material between the outside radius and inside radius you can put glue in the kerf cuts and it is pretty strong. A little math makes a much stronger curve that you dont have to put it around a form. (find out the outside radius and the find the inside radius the difference is the amount of material you need to remove by cutting evenly spaced kerfs over that distance) A little water, steam is even better and as a last resort a little heat will increase flexibility.
انا نجار موبيليا مصري ❤❤😂😂😂😂😂😊
Great
So we get to see the cutting of an unsuccessful broken piece... then when it's actually a successful piece, we don't get to see it cut... nor even the "new depth" that allowed the wood to bend in the first place as opposed to "just snapping in half"? No visual reference between good and bad? Great...
Will keep searching. (also makes me question the entire thing when we're told to make kerf cuts at "about 1/16th of an inch of material left" and then we see the first cuts and they're the remaining material is about the SAME SIZE AS THE SAWBLADE'S THICKNESS which we're told was 1/8" of an inch.
No wonder why people keep asking for "bendywood" to be stocked.