For any newbies watching - the fumes from the wet uncured resin are always very present and are called VOCs. You shouldn’t take safety as casually as RUclipsrs trying to get a good shot. You reallllly don’t want to let even a little bit of this stuff to get on your clothes or skin as it’s a toxic irritant that can give you burns or life long new allergy. The new allergic sensitivity thing can happen from breathing in the fumes as well and the included masks are not good enough. You don’t need to let it scare you from enjoying this hobby or go totally overboard with your setup and PPE, just protect yourself and don’t use most of these content creators as a guide for your health.
I’m setting this up in my office and I’ll print while the family is out during the day. Will a window and a fan clear out the fumes well enough? I don’t want the kids to pop in and be knocked out in the afternoon.
For any newbies watching - VOCs are the "volatile organic compounds" and these are not only the fumes from your resin, but any other organic compound with a low boiling point. These will evaporate quickly and some of them (like the compounds in your perfume or in our case resin) you'll be able to smell, not all of them are toxic though.
I have 3M mask which i used when airbrushing lacquer for my model kits. Im wondering if its good enough to prevent all the toxic fumes from resin? Since i had no experience with this and 3d printing.
I recently got one of these, I've had some issues with it but they are simple fixes, just needs some effort, I would recommend adding an angle to the edge of the plastic scraper (blunt of course) as if you have small hardened blobs or misprints in the tub, an angle can pry it off quickly and safely.
Elegoo Mars 3 Après trois mois de possession, je n'ai réussi à imprimer que le test et encore !! j'ai déchiré le FEP. La machine fait un bruit épouvantable au démarrage, ou plutôt lorsque le plateau entre dans le bac, puis rien ne se passe J'ai changé de Bac, de FEP, refait x fois le réglage du zéro, pour finalement me retrouver avec une machine et ses accessoires (lavage, UV, etc..) qui prennent la poussière. au total, perte de temps et d'argent (plus de 500 euros de dépensé!) Je pense que les RUclipsurs qui préconisent cette machine reçoivent une machine pré-testé sans problème. Il y a visiblement un problème de repérage du zéro, mais inutile de chercher à joindre le SAV, ils veulent une vidéo, que n'accepte quasiment aucun mail (trop gros!) Je reconnais que je craque ! mais j'ai une vyper qui tourne sans aucun problème depuis son achat. Je ne suis plus un novice dans l'impression 3D, mais cette machine, dans l'état où je l'ai reçue, est à éviter, tant pour son fonctionnement que pour le SAV.
Can someone please tell me why you wouldn't want to expose a finished UV print to the Sun? I mean I thought that would be the best way to finish curing them, can you cure them too fast or something?? I really just don't understand.
Why no one in these videos simply uses the VAT to level the build plate is beyond me. I mean, in the end thats what the build plate is meant to be leveled to, right? So why use paper sheets instead?
I was wondering the same thing. I've tried to print the rook 4 times with zero success. The fact that I've read at least 5 deviations of how you are supposed to perform the initial plate positioning, all of which seemed to work for other people, as all of which is done without the resin tank installed is A) Extremely frustrating that mine does not actually create anything at any setting, and B) it seems very irresponsible that whomever released this product and manual seems to have overlooked the significance of the most important setting. Based o the instructions manual, one sheet of paper without tank installed, the implications that the build plate would start in contact with the bottom of the resin tank since.tbclear plastic bottom is at ast as thick as a.piece of paper. In engineering, if a particular gap is specified, usually a numerical value will be provided. I guess if the system had worked it wouldn't have mattered. By my impression this far is very poor and I'll be returning a useless paperweight with what appears to be incorrect instructions for the main setup procedure .
I'm quite happy owner of an Elegoo Mars 3 Pro for a few months now. It's an affordable, beginner friendly, easy to setup, to use and to service printer (it's my first SLA printer btw.). I kinda wish there would be a way to clean the UV cover from the "nasty" resin stains though (Elegoo sells a replacement for ~$20). The screen protector for the LCD is a must on every SLA printer, in my opinion. The carbon filter on the other hand doesn't do much for me (I'm using mostly Elegoo Standard resin), but it's also not a selling point for me at all: I prefer wearing my respirator with organic vapor cartridges all the time I'm dealing with resin.
Just found out the hard way last night, took my gloves off and didn't see a small bit of resin on the table, put the top of my finger in it, swelled up a bit and burned for about 15 mins, and that was a tiny amount
Cool video, Vlad! Could you please explain the calibration part again. You calibrated using 2 pages of the book. Then said that if you're getting elephant feet raise the foot ca. 10mm and set to Zero there. Now a lot of other people use the paper calibration and then press the set zero, but you didn't at this part. Must one set zero here or is it ok just to tighten the screws and that should be ok?
OK I’m a bit miffed with this video as well. Vlad suggested four pages to set the print head. But in reality only one page is needed as previously suggested. I set mine at one page and it worked just fine.
just watched your last vid like moments ago. thanks again another good vid.... people saying he using 4 pages not 1....he exaplined this in his last vid.....he said he thinks the one page from the manuel is to thin so he used 4.... him not wearing gloves....yea that through me off too but hey you only live once....and he isnt hurting anyone but himslef....and he did say to wear the gloves..and mask......weather he does or not......so let him not...its his choice mates... i cant wait to get mine.....waiting next week cause its prime 2024.....elegoo already mention they will be having sale....although it seems they always do....
'choose 2-3 pages probably go with 4" ... no explanation? the manual itself states one page. I've only just unboxed and haven't set up yet, still reading the manual so curious.
Buyer beware as a new owner of an Elegoo Saturn 3 12k. There is no customer support. After now 8 attempts, this printer has yet to complete any job successfully.
Would have been nice if you had explained that the spare 2 fep sheets aren’t included you must have been sent these because you are reviewing it.. and also you saying to use 4 pages when the manual states to use 1 throws a spanner in the works for newbies to resin printing like me..
I purchased one and I am having issue getting any printing done. I have sent the print head with the 4 pages, raised the print head added the Elegoo resing, selected the rooks, pressed print, it said it would take 2h52m and it went through the process like it was printing and NADA. Any help would be appreciated.
so i fixed this and got a successful print. I emptied the tray and in the bottom of the tray was two circles, presumably the bottom of the prints... leading me to believe that the prints were not sticking to the build plate. So I removed those, re-levelled the build plate using 2 pieces of paper only and it worked great. HTH's.
After you set the plate on the paper, that’s when you set Z, at least that’s what I have learned and use on a regular basis. The UV light should not come on while the plate is out of the vat as yours did when you hit print.
My 3 pieces (Mars 3 4K Pro, wash, cure) are set to show up tomorrow - I can't wait! I'm still rocking my OG Ultimaker from 2013, so this is going to be a huge step up.
Found that the Mars 3 Pro have QA issues. Have to replace the LCD Screen once (two weeks ago, did a couple of small prints), and now the LCD Screen is non-working again (not curing the resin). Frustrated Elegoo Mars 3 Pro user.
What are flat surfaces like to print. So many are saying to use flat bed printer not a resin. And what is shrinkage like. Wanting to print some macro pads.
Your printer of choice depends solely on what you wanna do with it. Larger prints (like spare parts)->FDM printer Smaller and higly detailed prints (like miniatures and jewelry)->SLA printer Exceptions prove the rule. Except for detailed prints. FDM doesn't even come close to SLA in that regard. There is no shrinkage.
That printer size is too small for something like that, you could do it but you'd have to break it into too many smaller pieces and glue it together. A filiment printer might be better for something of that size if you don't mind the layer lines, many of them go away if you decide to prime and paint the item.
New Channel: www.youtube.com/@Just_Print
Mars 3 Pro: geni.us/ROiS
Washable resin: geni.us/CMDn
Recommended: geni.us/JustVlads
For any newbies watching - the fumes from the wet uncured resin are always very present and are called VOCs. You shouldn’t take safety as casually as RUclipsrs trying to get a good shot. You reallllly don’t want to let even a little bit of this stuff to get on your clothes or skin as it’s a toxic irritant that can give you burns or life long new allergy. The new allergic sensitivity thing can happen from breathing in the fumes as well and the included masks are not good enough.
You don’t need to let it scare you from enjoying this hobby or go totally overboard with your setup and PPE, just protect yourself and don’t use most of these content creators as a guide for your health.
I’m setting this up in my office and I’ll print while the family is out during the day. Will a window and a fan clear out the fumes well enough? I don’t want the kids to pop in and be knocked out in the afternoon.
@@crit_cannon1090 lololol
@@crit_cannon1090 I was wondering the same thing.
For any newbies watching - VOCs are the "volatile organic compounds" and these are not only the fumes from your resin, but any other organic compound with a low boiling point. These will evaporate quickly and some of them (like the compounds in your perfume or in our case resin) you'll be able to smell, not all of them are toxic though.
I have 3M mask which i used when airbrushing lacquer for my model kits. Im wondering if its good enough to prevent all the toxic fumes from resin? Since i had no experience with this and 3d printing.
I recently got one of these, I've had some issues with it but they are simple fixes, just needs some effort, I would recommend adding an angle to the edge of the plastic scraper (blunt of course) as if you have small hardened blobs or misprints in the tub, an angle can pry it off quickly and safely.
in mine the filter came with a sponge in between the coal and the filter, thanks for the video
Elegoo Mars 3
Après trois mois de possession, je n'ai réussi à imprimer que le test et encore !! j'ai déchiré le FEP.
La machine fait un bruit épouvantable au démarrage, ou plutôt lorsque le plateau entre dans le bac, puis rien ne se passe
J'ai changé de Bac, de FEP, refait x fois le réglage du zéro, pour finalement me retrouver avec une machine et ses accessoires (lavage, UV, etc..) qui prennent la poussière. au total, perte de temps et d'argent (plus de 500 euros de dépensé!)
Je pense que les RUclipsurs qui préconisent cette machine reçoivent une machine pré-testé sans problème.
Il y a visiblement un problème de repérage du zéro, mais inutile de chercher à joindre le SAV, ils veulent une vidéo, que n'accepte quasiment aucun mail (trop gros!)
Je reconnais que je craque ! mais j'ai une vyper qui tourne sans aucun problème depuis son achat.
Je ne suis plus un novice dans l'impression 3D, mais cette machine, dans l'état où je l'ai reçue, est à éviter, tant pour son fonctionnement que pour le SAV.
Very helpful thanks.
The platform wants to go "deeper" than whatever level I set as basis. Not able to print. Any ideas to resolve this?
Pro tip, use white glue to fill holes in models before any models that you spray prime.
Can someone please tell me why you wouldn't want to expose a finished UV print to the Sun?
I mean I thought that would be the best way to finish curing them, can you cure them too fast or something?? I really just don't understand.
🔥💕👍
Why no one in these videos simply uses the VAT to level the build plate is beyond me. I mean, in the end thats what the build plate is meant to be leveled to, right? So why use paper sheets instead?
I was wondering the same thing.
I've tried to print the rook 4 times with zero success. The fact that I've read at least 5 deviations of how you are supposed to perform the initial plate positioning, all of which seemed to work for other people, as all of which is done without the resin tank installed is A) Extremely frustrating that mine does not actually create anything at any setting, and B) it seems very irresponsible that whomever released this product and manual seems to have overlooked the significance of the most important setting. Based o the instructions manual, one sheet of paper without tank installed, the implications that the build plate would start in contact with the bottom of the resin tank since.tbclear plastic bottom is at ast as thick as a.piece of paper. In engineering, if a particular gap is specified, usually a numerical value will be provided. I guess if the system had worked it wouldn't have mattered.
By my impression this far is very poor and I'll be returning a useless paperweight with what appears to be incorrect instructions for the main setup procedure .
hello! great video. i have thou' a question. how much resin does it take to do the chess towers? cost wise. thank you.
I bought one from Amazon and it came used 😢
I understand getting a good shot dude but at least pop on some nitrile gloves
I'm quite happy owner of an Elegoo Mars 3 Pro for a few months now. It's an affordable, beginner friendly, easy to setup, to use and to service printer (it's my first SLA printer btw.). I kinda wish there would be a way to clean the UV cover from the "nasty" resin stains though (Elegoo sells a replacement for ~$20). The screen protector for the LCD is a must on every SLA printer, in my opinion. The carbon filter on the other hand doesn't do much for me (I'm using mostly Elegoo Standard resin), but it's also not a selling point for me at all: I prefer wearing my respirator with organic vapor cartridges all the time I'm dealing with resin.
Thank you for an excellent video. Really easy to follow throughout and so useful. Subscribed )O(
Please wear gloves when pouring resin. It’s not something you want drops of on you
Just found out the hard way last night, took my gloves off and didn't see a small bit of resin on the table, put the top of my finger in it, swelled up a bit and burned for about 15 mins, and that was a tiny amount
Cool video, Vlad! Could you please explain the calibration part again. You calibrated using 2 pages of the book. Then said that if you're getting elephant feet raise the foot ca. 10mm and set to Zero there. Now a lot of other people use the paper calibration and then press the set zero, but you didn't at this part. Must one set zero here or is it ok just to tighten the screws and that should be ok?
OK I’m a bit miffed with this video as well. Vlad suggested four pages to set the print head. But in reality only one page is needed as previously suggested. I set mine at one page and it worked just fine.
Does it come with potted grass, too?
Just got started into 3D printing and watched your video. Loved it and thx for the great and easy explanation 🤘🏼
just watched your last vid like moments ago. thanks again another good vid....
people saying he using 4 pages not 1....he exaplined this in his last vid.....he said he thinks the one page from the manuel is to thin so he used 4....
him not wearing gloves....yea that through me off too but hey you only live once....and he isnt hurting anyone but himslef....and he did say to wear the gloves..and mask......weather he does or not......so let him not...its his choice mates...
i cant wait to get mine.....waiting next week cause its prime 2024.....elegoo already mention they will be having sale....although it seems they always do....
'choose 2-3 pages probably go with 4" ... no explanation? the manual itself states one page. I've only just unboxed and haven't set up yet, still reading the manual so curious.
Buyer beware as a new owner of an Elegoo Saturn 3 12k. There is no customer support. After now 8 attempts, this printer has yet to complete any job successfully.
Would have been nice if you had explained that the spare 2 fep sheets aren’t included you must have been sent these because you are reviewing it.. and also you saying to use 4 pages when the manual states to use 1 throws a spanner in the works for newbies to resin printing like me..
I just got one form amazon but mine didnt come with any extra fep films
The perfect 3D printing setup:
🟥🟥🟥 🔲🔲🔲 🟨🟨🟨
🟥🟥🟥 🔲🔲🔲 🟨🟨🟨
🟥🟥🟥 🔲🔲🔲 🟨🟨🟨
⬛🔳⬛ ⬜⚫⬜ ⬜⚫⬜
I purchased one and I am having issue getting any printing done. I have sent the print head with the 4 pages, raised the print head added the Elegoo resing, selected the rooks, pressed print, it said it would take 2h52m and it went through the process like it was printing and NADA. Any help would be appreciated.
i got this as well via my first time today. Did you get it working? If so, how?
so i fixed this and got a successful print. I emptied the tray and in the bottom of the tray was two circles, presumably the bottom of the prints... leading me to believe that the prints were not sticking to the build plate. So I removed those, re-levelled the build plate using 2 pieces of paper only and it worked great. HTH's.
Typically you wanna use just 1 sheet of paper. This is the first time I've seen someone using 4 sheets for leveling. Ever.
After you set the plate on the paper, that’s when you set Z, at least that’s what I have learned and use on a regular basis. The UV light should not come on while the plate is out of the vat as yours did when you hit print.
Can anyone help me, why is my piece not sticking to the plate?
Do I need a Curing Station after printing?
Can you address the distortion of the feet of the Eiffel Tower and the other models showing bowing and warping?
My 3 pieces (Mars 3 4K Pro, wash, cure) are set to show up tomorrow - I can't wait!
I'm still rocking my OG Ultimaker from 2013, so this is going to be a huge step up.
How I level up my build platform
Found that the Mars 3 Pro have QA issues. Have to replace the LCD Screen once (two weeks ago, did a couple of small prints), and now the LCD Screen is non-working again (not curing the resin). Frustrated Elegoo Mars 3 Pro user.
What are flat surfaces like to print. So many are saying to use flat bed printer not a resin.
And what is shrinkage like. Wanting to print some macro pads.
Your printer of choice depends solely on what you wanna do with it.
Larger prints (like spare parts)->FDM printer
Smaller and higly detailed prints (like miniatures and jewelry)->SLA printer
Exceptions prove the rule. Except for detailed prints. FDM doesn't even come close to SLA in that regard.
There is no shrinkage.
Great video, man. Can We use also other resin from different company? Like Creality Standard Rigid Resin Plus? (Which uv resin is)
anyone know how to replace the Liner rod when it's bent?
also where I find a replacement part? thanks
Thanks for this vid
Well done with video..suggest, at same price, which is better elegoo mars3 pro or saturn (basic)?
🧠
Thank you for a simple no fuss set up video!
Super thorough and helpful! Thank you!!
what about the smell?
Just got one. The uv light is always on on mine.
Lol mine didn't come with the 2 extra feps
extra ¿que?
Is this good for a beginner
Did you wipe the resin basin at the end?
this is an amazing video ty
Can someone print parts of a helmet with this? Like a wearable helmet.
That printer size is too small for something like that, you could do it but you'd have to break it into too many smaller pieces and glue it together. A filiment printer might be better for something of that size if you don't mind the layer lines, many of them go away if you decide to prime and paint the item.
Yes, but it takes persistance. This shows for FDM printer, but it's similar with SLA: ruclips.net/video/ecOJYHquOIE/видео.html