HEY GUYS! If you need anything Central Boiler related reach out to Bruce he will help you out! Address: Somersworth Stove Shop 430 NH-108, Somersworth, NH 03878 603-842-5160
We live in colorado and just bought a house that runs off of this same model central boiler. I went to every stove shop in town and found very few even knew these existed let alone carried products or knew about maintaining them. The old owner ran this stove year round for 2 years not knowing to do anything but keep the fire going. We are trying to get the system back up to par, and these videos have helped immensely. Thank you thank you!
Kristi! I have been there and done that! I knew nothing about these firewood mammoths when I first moved in as well! Please subscribe to the channel and hit the bell icon so you know when I post videos about them. I have a few more coming up so stay tuned! If you need any more help save my email. Homesteadjay35@gmail.com happy to help via email too!
@@kristidishaw721 I am in Colorado too and have located the dealer near me which is in Dolores, Bishop Brothers Climate Control. Ron is super helpful. We love our Central boilers here in South West CO. I too have learned a lot and done many upgrades and repairs. We burn 10-12 cords a year in ours.
I bought my place with one of these systems and the people who I bought it from are actually central boiler dealers for my region. From what they told me you can just add moly boost and water to top up directly from the vent cap. They said just fill it right to the top and the system forces out any excess.
Glad I came across this. I will look into changing out my water this spring and adding molyarmor. Might even consider the sludge conditioner. I have not changed out the water since new and only added upon startup at the beginning of each season. Going on 10 years.
@@HomesteadJay Nope, not stainless steel. Just regular low carbon mild steel. But with a closed, pressurized system, after a couple days, the oxygen is depleted and it won't rust. Or so I'm told. I've seen and talked with guys with boilers like mine that are close to 40 years old and still going strong.
Jay- I bought the HDX 560last fall. According to the manual , you add the Molly first, as water will fill the welded fissures and NOT BE DISPLACED when you add the MOLLY after the water. Really have enjoyed your effort. We downsized to a smaller home, so I sold our older E-2300, which I I had traded up to from a 2007 6048 like yours. Best wishes…
Hey Rob! If you are local NH that place is the way to go! He’s got boilers, wood stoves, propane stoves, grills LOL tell him I sent you! He’ll take care of you!
Jay, greetings from West Virginia! Huge help! Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. On my way first thing in the AM to pick up 2 gallons of MolyArmor and a test kit from my nearest dealer (one hour away). I appreciate you. Peace.
Hey Dennis! Make sure you add a water sediment filter on your hose before you fill ( like an RV would have) before you fill up your machine if you are draining the water and also refill as soon as possible you dont want that bare metal inside water jacket exposed to the air too long or it could flash rust over!
Didn’t think of the filter! Filling from our rural Public Service District water source. Solid advice. Did pick up the immediate fill tip from your video. Thanks again, Jay.
@@HomesteadJay Thanks for the great videos I just bought a working used Wood Boiler CL 5036! I got it delivered a couple weeks ago and have not got it set up yet but saw the comment on filling right away. It was drained before we moved it but I have not filled it yet as Im still getting the plumbing and parts etc. Should I fill it right away and add Molyarmor even if I cant circulate the water till its all hooked up? Thanks again for the advise and videos!
Hey there if you are going to plum it up soon then it can wait but if its going to sit for a few months id at least plum in two shut offs (which you should have above the pumps anyways) and then you can do the pumps and pex later and at least the unit has treated water in it. Make sure you use a sediment filter on the hose to filter out sediment. Sediment is the quickest way to wear out pumps!
Thanks for this? My unit sprung a leak in the middle of the side. One morning, I went to add wood and found the firebox had about 2 inches of water in it..fun cleaning that out. I tried to use a hand vinyl tube pump to get the water below the little hole. Couldn't get it snaked very far. That handy dany drain valve is much better!
Nice video. Thanks Jay. I put 2 gallons of Molyarmor in my old water a few months ago. CB said it was ok to do that. I've since decided to take the plunge and get a 560 gasser. My CL6048 has served me well but cutting, splitting and stacking 50% less wood is just too much for this 72 year old body to resist.
Hey mike! Yes saving wood is deff a exciting thing for sure! I am going to run my classic till she goes and then ill go gasification! Keep up the good fight! Hope ill still be doing it at 72! God Bless!
I like your new video today you did a really good jop this was really cool video today i did a some my wood stove is good now god bless too you guys buddy good jop on your video today love your video buddy
Great video. I am over in Maine and have a Central Boiler Classic Edge 550 Titanium gasification boiler and absolutely love it. I am going to reach out to my local rep regarding the new treatment Moly Armor. Would be nice to not have to do the mad scientist routine every time I test. Great video, keep it up.
Hey Pat! Yeah wouldn’t hurt to reach out to a dealer for sure! Is not a bad process and the new test as you saw is quick and easy no more breaking bad science hahah
Hey Pete! Its really not that bad. Changing the water isnt a common or annual thing its something you dont even need to do as long as the PH and corrosion levels are ok! I did it because CB changed their test kit and formula so I wanted to be on the same page.
Thanks for the help, Jay. I noticed the yellow styrofoam has many cracks (looks like pets “popped”) in it when opened the panel to turn it on. Is this an indication the boiler was too hot?
The styrofoam is going to act and move over time I wouldnt sweat it! They have had "issues" with the foam year and years later but it makes sense the machines are outside exposed to humidity, cold, warmth, temps fluctuation from the boiler etc. Makes sense the foam will shift crack and move a bit. I wouldnt sweat it!
Hi, I just bought a house with a wood boiler so I’m really learning this winter. If my water level is low, what is the best way to add water? Do I need to let the water temperature drop before I top it off? Or can I add right to the top?
Hey Jess. If you have a central boiler there is a fill at the top. Pop the cap off (it fits loosely over) and fill the boiler. There’s a valve with a clear tube on it above the front door to the right. If you open that little valve it will show your water level. If you overfill no big deal it will boil over and settle. Make sure you add moly armor though and test the water. You don’t wanna run untested or untreated water
If your running the old anti corrosion conditioner it wouldn’t hurt to run the sludge conditioner through then drain and then refill and add moly armor. This is of course after the heating season is over. Consult with a local dealer just to double Check
i have a 2006 central boiler 4030. no problems in 15 years. great stove. door ropes and pump cartridge is all i have added. i added moly boost last year, tested to 2700ppm with my test kit. should i add moly armor? or is the old corrosion inhibitor and moly boost enough? i have always tested my water twice a year, always has tested within specs and is clear. it is the same water in the stove for 15 years.
do not quote me but I THINK and let me say again I THINK you can add the moly armour to old systems and have no issues as long as you use the test kit specfically to the moly armour! If you add moly armor and use the old test kit that will not work. This is all speculation so Id double check that but ive read that some people added two gallons of moly armour to "old water" and had no issues. But double check!
How do you “shut the system down and just circulate the water?” My first year with woodstove. Same CL6048. I added sludge conditioner. Monday will be 5 days and then I’m ready to cool it down for the purge/refill. I don’t want to ruin anything.
Hey Jack! Long story short if you "cut the power" to the boiler in my case I shut the breaker off then I can plug my pump in to an extension cord right at the boiler and that will circulate the just the water but it wont run the solenoid or anything like that! I have a follow up video on draining it and refill! It should be on my page right around the time of this video!
Thank you for making this video & tutorial. Just prepping for fire up of the stove and change water to Molyarmor. Quick question, the sludge conditioner you did, just peace of mind or highly recommended? I've had my 5036 as long as yours(2008).
Since your going through the process don’t skip any steps! I did it to help loosen or get rid of anything built up. esp since I run a plate style heat exchanger so the passages are small between the plates. I highly recommend running it.
As long as you test it before and after season if everything shows up with in range there’s no reason to change it. I changed mine because it was the old anti corrosion additive so I wanted to switch to the new moly armor.
@@HomesteadJay thank you! I am looking at a brand new one and I am new to all this and just want to make sure to take care of my investment. Your videos help so much.
@@brandonblankenship5293 If you are starting fresh then deff use the moly armor. ALSO run a sediment filter on your hose when you fill it up. Sediment in your water will wear out your pumps overtime (years) its like sandblasting if you think about it. 300-400 gallons of water these take and even if you had a little sediment in each gallon it adds up! Use a RV inline sediment filter as I stated before!
HEY GUYS! If you need anything Central Boiler related reach out to Bruce he will help you out!
Address:
Somersworth Stove Shop
430 NH-108, Somersworth, NH 03878
603-842-5160
We live in colorado and just bought a house that runs off of this same model central boiler. I went to every stove shop in town and found very few even knew these existed let alone carried products or knew about maintaining them. The old owner ran this stove year round for 2 years not knowing to do anything but keep the fire going. We are trying to get the system back up to par, and these videos have helped immensely. Thank you thank you!
Kristi! I have been there and done that! I knew nothing about these firewood mammoths when I first moved in as well! Please subscribe to the channel and hit the bell icon so you know when I post videos about them. I have a few more coming up so stay tuned! If you need any more help save my email. Homesteadjay35@gmail.com happy to help via email too!
@@HomesteadJay Will do, and much appreciated!
@@kristidishaw721 I am in Colorado too and have located the dealer near me which is in Dolores, Bishop Brothers Climate Control. Ron is super helpful. We love our Central boilers here in South West CO. I too have learned a lot and done many upgrades and repairs. We burn 10-12 cords a year in ours.
I bought my place with one of these systems and the people who I bought it from are actually central boiler dealers for my region. From what they told me you can just add moly boost and water to top up directly from the vent cap. They said just fill it right to the top and the system forces out any excess.
Yes you can add the moly to existing water but I wanted to change mine out from scratch!
One handy tip when adding inhibitor from a gallon jug, cut the bottom off of a gallon milk jug. Less spill
Hmm interesting!
Glad I came across this. I will look into changing out my water this spring and adding molyarmor. Might even consider the sludge conditioner. I have not changed out the water since new and only added upon startup at the beginning of each season. Going on 10 years.
Thanks Jay!!! Had no idea there was an upgrade and good riddens to the old nitrate test kit. Moly armor here we come.
Indeed! Time to upgrade indeed!
Wow! That's a lot of work! With my pressurized gasser, I've never changed or tested my water. And no special chemicals needed. Thanks for the video!
Hmm interesting? No treatment at all? That’s interesting it must be stainless steel?
@@HomesteadJay Nope, not stainless steel. Just regular low carbon mild steel. But with a closed, pressurized system, after a couple days, the oxygen is depleted and it won't rust. Or so I'm told. I've seen and talked with guys with boilers like mine that are close to 40 years old and still going strong.
Hmm I gotcha! Good stuff!
Jay- I bought the HDX 560last fall. According to the manual , you add the Molly first, as water will fill the welded fissures and NOT BE DISPLACED when you add the MOLLY after the water. Really have enjoyed your effort. We downsized to a smaller home, so I sold our older E-2300, which I I had traded up to from a 2007 6048 like yours. Best wishes…
Hey Tim! You are correct I believe it does say that but its not the end of the world if you add it after! Thanks for the comment! Happy heating!
Wow, so much work! I’m gonna stop by that shop with a lot of questions. Been looking at wood heat for a while now and you have answered a lot. Thanks
Hey Rob! If you are local NH that place is the way to go! He’s got boilers, wood stoves, propane stoves, grills LOL tell him I sent you! He’ll take care of you!
Jay your videos keep getting better and better! Good information and well edited. Good for you for shopping local and supporting small businesses too.
Thanks Jim! Yes I’m all about local! Bruce is a good guy for sure! Always had my back even before the channel so I respect that
Your not that far away from me. This is very cool.
Good stuff! Thanks for tuning in!
Jay, greetings from West Virginia! Huge help! Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. On my way first thing in the AM to pick up 2 gallons of MolyArmor and a test kit from my nearest dealer (one hour away). I appreciate you. Peace.
Hey Dennis! Make sure you add a water sediment filter on your hose before you fill ( like an RV would have) before you fill up your machine if you are draining the water and also refill as soon as possible you dont want that bare metal inside water jacket exposed to the air too long or it could flash rust over!
Didn’t think of the filter! Filling from our rural Public Service District water source. Solid advice. Did pick up the immediate fill tip from your video. Thanks again, Jay.
I didn’t mentioned it in the video that’s why I left you the comment lol
@@HomesteadJay Thanks for the great videos I just bought a working used Wood Boiler CL 5036! I got it delivered a couple weeks ago and have not got it set up yet but saw the comment on filling right away. It was drained before we moved it but I have not filled it yet as Im still getting the plumbing and parts etc. Should I fill it right away and add Molyarmor even if I cant circulate the water till its all hooked up? Thanks again for the advise and videos!
Hey there if you are going to plum it up soon then it can wait but if its going to sit for a few months id at least plum in two shut offs (which you should have above the pumps anyways) and then you can do the pumps and pex later and at least the unit has treated water in it. Make sure you use a sediment filter on the hose to filter out sediment. Sediment is the quickest way to wear out pumps!
Great video Jay. I do not have a wood boiler but I enjoy learning about them and you do a great job at explaining the ins and outs.
Thank you for tuning in! Im glad you find it interesting!
Great video lots of info, love the introductory clip🇨🇦
Thanks 👍 Appreciate it!
Thanks for this? My unit sprung a leak in the middle of the side. One morning, I went to add wood and found the firebox had about 2 inches of water in it..fun cleaning that out. I tried to use a hand vinyl tube pump to get the water below the little hole. Couldn't get it snaked very far. That handy dany drain valve is much better!
Ugh im sorry yours leaked! That was be a terrible feeling...
Nicely done lots of info I can use , I need to do mine 👍🏻
Yes sir! I can’t believe the head pressure when I first cracked it open hahaha 400 gallons is a lot lol
@@HomesteadJay had drawing we didn’t win the saws , 😢
Dammit!
Nice video. Thanks Jay. I put 2 gallons of Molyarmor in my old water a few months ago. CB said it was ok to do that. I've since decided to take the plunge and get a 560 gasser. My CL6048 has served me well but cutting, splitting and stacking 50% less wood is just too much for this 72 year old body to resist.
Hey mike! Yes saving wood is deff a exciting thing for sure! I am going to run my classic till she goes and then ill go gasification! Keep up the good fight! Hope ill still be doing it at 72! God Bless!
I see how close the trailer is. Nice job
Thank you!
I like your new video today you did a really good jop this was really cool video today i did a some my wood stove is good now god bless too you guys buddy good jop on your video today love your video buddy
That's awesome! God Bless to you too!
Good night too you guys buddy god bless too you guys buddy
As Usual, Nice Job ,Thank You !!!
Thanks again!
Great video. I am over in Maine and have a Central Boiler Classic Edge 550 Titanium gasification boiler and absolutely love it. I am going to reach out to my local rep regarding the new treatment Moly Armor. Would be nice to not have to do the mad scientist routine every time I test. Great video, keep it up.
Hey Pat! Yeah wouldn’t hurt to reach out to a dealer for sure! Is not a bad process and the new test as you saw is quick and easy no more breaking bad science hahah
Great info, Thanks
Yes sir!
Good Video but I never realized how much work it was to have one of those boilers.
Hey Pete! Its really not that bad. Changing the water isnt a common or annual thing its something you dont even need to do as long as the PH and corrosion levels are ok! I did it because CB changed their test kit and formula so I wanted to be on the same page.
Thanks for the help, Jay. I noticed the yellow styrofoam has many cracks (looks like pets “popped”) in it when opened the panel to turn it on. Is this an indication the boiler was too hot?
The styrofoam is going to act and move over time I wouldnt sweat it! They have had "issues" with the foam year and years later but it makes sense the machines are outside exposed to humidity, cold, warmth, temps fluctuation from the boiler etc. Makes sense the foam will shift crack and move a bit. I wouldnt sweat it!
Hi, I just bought a house with a wood boiler so I’m really learning this winter. If my water level is low, what is the best way to add water? Do I need to let the water temperature drop before I top it off? Or can I add right to the top?
Hey Jess. If you have a central boiler there is a fill at the top. Pop the cap off (it fits loosely over) and fill the boiler. There’s a valve with a clear tube on it above the front door to the right. If you open that little valve it will show your water level. If you overfill no big deal it will boil over and settle. Make sure you add moly armor though and test the water. You don’t wanna run untested or untreated water
Also you can add when it’s running. No issue there.
@@HomesteadJaythank you! Your videos have definitely helped guide me through this first season.
Thank you so much for this video.
If your running the old anti corrosion conditioner it wouldn’t hurt to run the sludge conditioner through then drain and then refill and add moly armor. This is of course after the heating season is over. Consult with a local dealer just to double
Check
i have a 2006 central boiler 4030. no problems in 15 years. great stove. door ropes and pump cartridge is all i have added. i added moly boost last year, tested to 2700ppm with my test kit. should i add moly armor? or is the old corrosion inhibitor and moly boost enough? i have always tested my water twice a year, always has tested within specs and is clear. it is the same water in the stove for 15 years.
do not quote me but I THINK and let me say again I THINK you can add the moly armour to old systems and have no issues as long as you use the test kit specfically to the moly armour! If you add moly armor and use the old test kit that will not work. This is all speculation so Id double check that but ive read that some people added two gallons of moly armour to "old water" and had no issues. But double check!
How do you “shut the system down and just circulate the water?” My first year with woodstove. Same CL6048. I added sludge conditioner. Monday will be 5 days and then I’m ready to cool it down for the purge/refill. I don’t want to ruin anything.
Hey Jack! Long story short if you "cut the power" to the boiler in my case I shut the breaker off then I can plug my pump in to an extension cord right at the boiler and that will circulate the just the water but it wont run the solenoid or anything like that! I have a follow up video on draining it and refill! It should be on my page right around the time of this video!
The moly armor will give you full instructions too on the label!
Thank you for making this video & tutorial. Just prepping for fire up of the stove and change water to Molyarmor. Quick question, the sludge conditioner you did, just peace of mind or highly recommended? I've had my 5036 as long as yours(2008).
Since your going through the process don’t skip any steps! I did it to help loosen or get rid of anything built up. esp since I run a plate style heat exchanger so the passages are small between the plates. I highly recommend running it.
Do you change the water every year?
No sir! I wont change this again for the life of the machine! Its good for a long time now
👍👍
This video took forever to do lol thanks for tuning in!
how often should this be done?
As long as you test it before and after season if everything shows up with in range there’s no reason to change it. I changed mine because it was the old anti corrosion additive so I wanted to switch to the new moly armor.
@@HomesteadJay thank you! I am looking at a brand new one and I am new to all this and just want to make sure to take care of my investment. Your videos help so much.
@@brandonblankenship5293 If you are starting fresh then deff use the moly armor. ALSO run a sediment filter on your hose when you fill it up. Sediment in your water will wear out your pumps overtime (years) its like sandblasting if you think about it. 300-400 gallons of water these take and even if you had a little sediment in each gallon it adds up! Use a RV inline sediment filter as I stated before!
@@HomesteadJay guy, I really owe you for that excellent advice. Thank you!
@@brandonblankenship5293 Glad to help!
Head pressure is a measure of height not number of gallons.. 2.31 feet of head = 1 p.s.i. of pressure.
Interesting fact there. Thank you for sharing
There's another one. I have never changed my water in over 20 years.
Yeah as long as you check it you dont have to worry really! How often do you test yours?
@@HomesteadJay I test it regularly. I work at a water treatment plant so I have all the lab equipment at my disposal.
@@sockeyewillie Perfect hahah
Allô allô
Thanks for tuning in!