I've now listened to some of this on my phone, and a TV, and thought I should add that... How much of the sound comes through, and how it sounds, is going to vary depending on what device you are listening on, what speakers (or headphones) you are listening through, how loud it's turned up, etc. For example, when I was listening at a medium low setting on my phone, a lot of sounds I could hear clearly from the amp's speaker in the room, and over the headphones, were barely audible through my phone, and on my TV, some sounds that were were just as audible on the video as they were from the Amp speaker and over my headset. *but!* actually sounded *much different* than they did in person while I was recording them. That's essentially just the nature of things when attempting to record, then *accurately reproduce*, a given sound... But in a video like this, which attempts specifically to demonstrate some fairly subtle sounds, and minor differences between similar sounds, those kinds of technical differences can *literally* make the difference between being able to hear a particular sound on one device, but *not* be abl3 to hear it at all on another device. Which can be unintentionally misleading, *and* pretty darned awkward for me, if I'm reacting to a sound the audience can't hear lol 😅 Anyway, I thought it might help to clarify that the 3rd meter from the left, is a direct feed from my amp. It's a peavey 6505mh, which had a built in speaker emulator that outputs via USB. So that 3rd meter is that direct USB feed. And *any* time it hits more than about 3 bars from anything other than basic white noise, I am hearing it over my headphones through one ear *and* from a nice deep 4x10 cabinet that's in the room, coming through my right ear. The cabinet is not turned up loud, but it's design makes it have a nice warm bassy-ness to it, making it naturally boost any low-mid and bass tones a bit. The far left meter is the headset mic. That is the *only* mic feed, and I try to remember to turn it off so you can hear *just* the sound being sent from the guitar to the Amp. So if you see the 3rd meter registering, you *should* be hearing something, because that means the guitar *is* sending sound to the pc through the Amp. The higher the meter registers, the louder the sound should be. If the 1st bar is *also* bouncing, then you are *also* getting some of the sound from the room (and likely from the actual speaker box, which is in the room) that's being picked up by my headset mic, as well as the direct guitar/amp feed. If *only* the 1st meter is bouncing, then you are only hearing sound from the room, and if *only* the 3rd meter is bouncing, then you ate only hearing the guitar/amp's direct feed. I don't think I *ever* turned off/muted the guitar/amp's direct feed, so there should be no cases where you hear the guitar *only* from the speaker in the room (over my headset mic) *without* also hearing its direct feed and withour having it register on the 3rd meter. Oh, and I mentioned the *bass boosting* properties of the cabinet in the room for two reasons. The first, is because it makes pretty much all deep/resonant tones much more audible and louder *to me*, in the room, than it sounds over the direct feed. So, unless you are listening on a sound system that also amplifies deep/resonant frequencies as much as that one does, you simply won't be able to hear it the way it was sounding out of the actual guitar cabinet I was using. So a light dull thunk that comes over the feed, would tend to actually produce a medium bass *whump* through my guitar cabinet. Which brings me to the second reason I mentioned the cabinet properties. That is, basically, that how much all these noises and such that are directly being affected by properties of the wood, are going to *also* be either strengthened, or diminished, by how your guitar's signal gets amplified *and* how it's output. I like this particular 4x10 cabinet because it amplifies deep/warm/resonant frequencies really well. The same signal played through my old 5150 cabinet, doesn't accentuate those lower resonant frequencies as well. So, for better or worse, things like your output cabinet/speakers/etc are also part of the final sound equation. That means, you can do something like pick a nice resonant wood for a guitar body, but end up creating a signal and output chain that can effectively cancel out any advantages or desirable properties that might have given. In the 90s, I got frustrated at not being able to get the *full* spectrum of sound that I wanted out of 1 amp and 1 speaker box. So I ended up tri-amping, and one of my boxes was a nice deep box with a carvin 15" bass speaker. That amp was running off an active crossover that only sent it the lower/more resonant bass frequencies from my signal, so I could really pump out those particular frequencies nice crisp and clear, and crunched out a full power palm mute, it'd hit you in the chest. The point there, is that I'd already done things in the first half of my sound production chain that help create the resonant frequencies I wanted, but then I *also* did things in the *second* half of my sound chain, to help *use* those resonant frequencies to produce/reproduce the frequencies I wanted. In other words, picking a wood you like, is only *one variable* the larger equation that will add up to sound/tone you end up with. It probably won't even be the variable that has the most obvious effect. *however*... I *do* consider your body wood to be one of the most important choices, simply because it's essentially impossible to change *after* you've built the guitar. Basically, you can "upgrade" or change *any* other part of the guitar, and it's still *that* guitar. But if you change the *body*, then you are building a different guitar.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
I've now listened to some of this on my phone, and a TV, and thought I should add that...
How much of the sound comes through, and how it sounds, is going to vary depending on what device you are listening on, what speakers (or headphones) you are listening through, how loud it's turned up, etc.
For example, when I was listening at a medium low setting on my phone, a lot of sounds I could hear clearly from the amp's speaker in the room, and over the headphones, were barely audible through my phone, and on my TV, some sounds that were were just as audible on the video as they were from the Amp speaker and over my headset. *but!* actually sounded *much different* than they did in person while I was recording them.
That's essentially just the nature of things when attempting to record, then *accurately reproduce*, a given sound...
But in a video like this, which attempts specifically to demonstrate some fairly subtle sounds, and minor differences between similar sounds, those kinds of technical differences can *literally* make the difference between being able to hear a particular sound on one device, but *not* be abl3 to hear it at all on another device.
Which can be unintentionally misleading, *and* pretty darned awkward for me, if I'm reacting to a sound the audience can't hear lol 😅
Anyway, I thought it might help to clarify that the 3rd meter from the left, is a direct feed from my amp.
It's a peavey 6505mh, which had a built in speaker emulator that outputs via USB.
So that 3rd meter is that direct USB feed.
And *any* time it hits more than about 3 bars from anything other than basic white noise, I am hearing it over my headphones through one ear *and* from a nice deep 4x10 cabinet that's in the room, coming through my right ear.
The cabinet is not turned up loud, but it's design makes it have a nice warm bassy-ness to it, making it naturally boost any low-mid and bass tones a bit.
The far left meter is the headset mic. That is the *only* mic feed, and I try to remember to turn it off so you can hear *just* the sound being sent from the guitar to the Amp.
So if you see the 3rd meter registering, you *should* be hearing something, because that means the guitar *is* sending sound to the pc through the Amp.
The higher the meter registers, the louder the sound should be.
If the 1st bar is *also* bouncing, then you are *also* getting some of the sound from the room (and likely from the actual speaker box, which is in the room) that's being picked up by my headset mic, as well as the direct guitar/amp feed.
If *only* the 1st meter is bouncing, then you are only hearing sound from the room, and if *only* the 3rd meter is bouncing, then you ate only hearing the guitar/amp's direct feed.
I don't think I *ever* turned off/muted the guitar/amp's direct feed, so there should be no cases where you hear the guitar *only* from the speaker in the room (over my headset mic) *without* also hearing its direct feed and withour having it register on the 3rd meter.
Oh, and I mentioned the *bass boosting* properties of the cabinet in the room for two reasons.
The first, is because it makes pretty much all deep/resonant tones much more audible and louder *to me*, in the room, than it sounds over the direct feed.
So, unless you are listening on a sound system that also amplifies deep/resonant frequencies as much as that one does, you simply won't be able to hear it the way it was sounding out of the actual guitar cabinet I was using.
So a light dull thunk that comes over the feed, would tend to actually produce a medium bass *whump* through my guitar cabinet.
Which brings me to the second reason I mentioned the cabinet properties.
That is, basically, that how much all these noises and such that are directly being affected by properties of the wood, are going to *also* be either strengthened, or diminished, by how your guitar's signal gets amplified *and* how it's output.
I like this particular 4x10 cabinet because it amplifies deep/warm/resonant frequencies really well.
The same signal played through my old 5150 cabinet, doesn't accentuate those lower resonant frequencies as well.
So, for better or worse, things like your output cabinet/speakers/etc are also part of the final sound equation.
That means, you can do something like pick a nice resonant wood for a guitar body, but end up creating a signal and output chain that can effectively cancel out any advantages or desirable properties that might have given.
In the 90s, I got frustrated at not being able to get the *full* spectrum of sound that I wanted out of 1 amp and 1 speaker box. So I ended up tri-amping, and one of my boxes was a nice deep box with a carvin 15" bass speaker. That amp was running off an active crossover that only sent it the lower/more resonant bass frequencies from my signal, so I could really pump out those particular frequencies nice crisp and clear, and crunched out a full power palm mute, it'd hit you in the chest.
The point there, is that I'd already done things in the first half of my sound production chain that help create the resonant frequencies I wanted, but then I *also* did things in the *second* half of my sound chain, to help *use* those resonant frequencies to produce/reproduce the frequencies I wanted.
In other words, picking a wood you like, is only *one variable* the larger equation that will add up to sound/tone you end up with.
It probably won't even be the variable that has the most obvious effect.
*however*...
I *do* consider your body wood to be one of the most important choices, simply because it's essentially impossible to change *after* you've built the guitar.
Basically, you can "upgrade" or change *any* other part of the guitar, and it's still *that* guitar.
But if you change the *body*, then you are building a different guitar.