Anodizing with/on Acid - S02E48
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- Опубликовано: 7 май 2019
- A Quick Guide to anodizing the reliable way at home. Now with more Science! How to make your aluminum parts as hard as glass... and unicorn pink.
***Trypophobia Warning***
Handy Calculator:
ndhsubmersiblescience.com/ano/...
dye:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Shirts:
www.physanon.com/shirts/
Webpage:
www.physanon.com/
Patreon page:
/ physicsanonymous 
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I've seen lots of anodizing vids; this one was good, and straight to the point. some vids are lik 45 mins
I hadn't actually known what anodizing was until this video so great job explaining it clearly and simply! I love all the subtle humor too. 😂
When I done mine I cleaned the parts using sodium hydroxide, again eats away product so 30-45 secs, also a aquatic air pump helps to keep the mix agitated and cool, which I believe helped in conductivity. Great advice on the bucket size thou, I learned the hard way!! Been ages since I done a video, yours is so much better!!
Wearing the safety goggles on the forehead won”t really protect your eyes, just an observation.
Not wearing goggles for the part where you're actually dropping shit into the acid lol
Omnis Shit can happen when handling chemicals. Having the goggles on the forehead taking chances is both stupid and ignorant. As you don’t know, accidents happen when you least expect it.
But hey, i don’t give a shit about your eyes. Gouge those eyes out if you wish.
I'm a forehead model and I need to protect my forehead.
Awesome, short, but funny and packed full of info.
The outcome looks amazing!
I just found your channel and I'm shocked how I haven't found it before. Your videos are to the point and quite funny :P Thanks to youtube for recommending your surface grinder video.
Anodizing was invented by Bengough & Stuart, hence known as the Bengough-Stuart process, both were BRITISH, so we will use whatever units we like!
I've found I get better dyeing results if I dry the part between the rinse and the dye. My assumption is that dye penetrates less evenly if the pores start out being filled with water. I dry them with clean/dry compressed air, the contrast between dry and saturated unsealed anodize is stark, so it's easy to tell when the part is sufficiently dry.
Cody's lab did an interesting water / acid adding order video...
Good results, thanks!
This is crazy! I love it! :D
Hey guys, can you tell me more about the titanium bolt that you thread through to ensure contact with the part? I'm having some questions about losing contact due to the growth of the layer... I want to find a way to fix that.
Do you have a recommendation on a power supply
Please I have a question, do aluminum dyeing, aluminum dyeing, I did not find it in my country, thank you
Many years ago I used to use clothing dyes and it worked great but not always - results werent consistent, also did some anodizing for someones aluminium frame for his DIY drone, it has been exposed to a lot of sun and it just started to lose the color after some time.
Good thing I did it for him for free...
Then I got proper dye but had some issues with the type of alloys I tried to anodize.
At some point my father banned me from doing it because of those nasty fumes (that was when I was like 16yo and still lived in my parents house lol)
any update on the photon case?
yeah you weren't kiddin about being a quick guide. now to find a more step by step, in depth guide
Love the Flite Test shirt!
Hello Everyone, I have a problem with anodising the pressure casting aluminium, means the alloy with high silicon contain (Si>6%). Does anybody tried this? Which parameter could be a problem, which should be combined?
So where's the link to buy the dye?
link added...
Damn, it took me much longer than I would have liked to figure out the "with/on" part of the title. Now that I finally get it... ;D
I was wondering if it was a typo for "with/out" (the long-form version of "w/o", I guess), which made me think you were doing the method of aluminum anodizing that uses ph-down. I've done a little bit of DIY anodizing using ph-down and have had pretty good results. I'm not sure if there's any tangible difference between results from the two methods, but it's nice that the electrolyte is not as much of a pain to handle or be around as acid, and also the peaks last longer.
Cool vids thanks guys
You guys need to post more vids!
to take away some fears: if you add water to acid, it doesnt explode in your face. you are using dilute acids more than likely where its not a problem to do. best practice is to add the acid, right, but you dont have to be afraid of working with acids. you add water to acid everytime you drink something and you dont explode from it :)
Depending on which acids, the problem is that it might boils the water, and the bubbles will then be splashing concentrated acid. So you should still be careful !
Some acids, high conc sulphuric for instance gets pretty damn hot when it hits water. That can cause localised boiling and spitting. Same as some strong bases too. It's not an enormous inconvenience to add acid first. Dilute acids are different, I'd feel comfortable adding water to the anodising solution here.
Excellent 👍
Awesomeness
👍 for the "Ologies" tshirt
One of my favorite podcasts!
Were you using 96% sulfuric acid? Do you have a source where you got it from?
My hygrometer reads it to be somewhere around 90%, so in that neighborhood. It's pretty easy to get in the US as battery electrolyte (for lead acid batteries like in cars) but I understand some countries regulate it. Someone told me you can buy it as drain cleaner in the UK, but they took it off the auto parts store shelves. If you get some and it's purple or some other color that's usually a sign that it's heavily diluted...it can be purified back down if that's your only option.
Good question, I saw that the "battery acid" sold by Auto Zone is specific gravity 1.265 which equates to about 34% sulfuric acid. So it sounds like the sulfuric acid used here is much stronger. i am thinking to order from chemical supplier, but still need to figure out what the correct specific gravity should be for optimal anodizing. In the video, assuming the acid is about 20% of the total weight, and its 90% acid, then the mixture is about 18% acid or sp gr of 1.124. I guess i can do the math to figure out how to dilute to a similar acid concentration if i go the off-the-shelf way... Any thoughts? High school chemistry was many decages ago!
This was great! Thanks for sharing it!
Another good one thanks 👍
Just a little fast talking for us non english natives.
BTW, any news of the surface grinder?
thought the same, was fast
I had the previous video I was watching set at 2x speed. Super fast talking!
@@DesignedbyWill2084 😂
The last Video was E49 and not 47??
Will this work on titanium?
Yes, 10 minutes anodising at a certain voltage (Google titanium voltage colours to find out) you will need to etch/activate the substrate first
Your problem was insufficient Army Men, please try again with at least a platoon!
You can also dip in PTFE dispersion and get a very low surface energy. The PTFE fits into the oxide pores.
I'd like to hear more about the properties of the dyes. Like what's the actual differences between dye types and brands? Good video thanks.
Oh yeah, there's a whole thing about that, like most of the dyes are organic except for black, and the biggest differences between them are grain size/consistency. Which is also why you never see a white anodizing dye: white pigment is usually made it things like titanium oxide, which is too big to fit in the pores. I think that's why clothing dyes come up strange: inconsistent grains and poor purity
@@wileecoyoti I tried the brand they used Fiery Red and compared it against Racing Red RIT Dyemore synthetic dye and the result was almost identical. Most inconsistencies I've run into were something I did wrong during the process upto dying and not really the dye itself. It made me wonder if the "professional 'dyes for anodizing aren't just filtered rit dyes. White would be cool. Or an iridescent pearl.
@@alexbarnett8541 I have a feeling we're going to revisit this (especially since right now I'm anodizing 5-10 parts almost every day, keep learning new tricks as I go). When we do I think we'll have to test out a bunch of dyes that "aren't for anodizing" and see what you can get away with. Above dye noted!
@@wileecoyoti definitely. I'd like to try some abrasion testing on different dyes since that's also very important. Anodizing is definitely addictive.
First class anodizing vid 👍
'This Old Tony-esque' video NNO! NNNO! NNNNO!
And then just pour it down the storm drain when you're done, right?
I'm so confused by this title...but I totally get it lol
"For the metric crowd, thats 0.099 Sols"....... thanks for that!
And he even got that wrong. 0.099 Sols is about 146 minutes. Not 30. He's so confused in all that inch shit, that he even can't calculate time properly.
A “zero water” filter would be a great water source as it has zero Dissolved substance in it
warns about goggles.... wears them on forehead...
I am so thirsty watching this video, if only there was a good liquid for that!
So, no heating the sulphuric acid bath over an open flame and goggles do nothing? Got it! 😏
Token Scottish person pointing out he's never heard of Rankine
I was going to ask "how Scottish?" But then I saw your name...
@@wileecoyoti just a wee bit! I've now learned enough about it to get the jokes which is all anyone can ask for. Keep up the good work ey!
.... I listened to the cat... and now I am blind.
Hates on the metric system - can't get a imperial scale on the close up view
Haha, I love the metric system, it's better in every way. More just making fun of other RUclipsrs who convert everything.
@@PhysicsAnonymous ooh looks like I got that one wrong! Keep it coming in guys :D
Aceton will not provide the needed surface potential. Just look at this video: ruclips.net/video/x7onZGqrYyY/видео.html
pure sulfuric acid is extremely dangerous. This is VERY diluted. yes you really dont want it in your eyes.. BUT you can get battery acid (diluted sulfuric acid) on your hands with no real issue unless you have very sensitive skin.
I do electroplating using sulfuric acid based compounds. No i dont wear gloves and my skin is very much still on my hands unharmed even though i get direct contact with the diluted acids. I make zinc and nickel sulfate by hand with battery acid instead of buying the crystals.
I'm NOT saying its safe to take a bath in battery acid, but nobody wears glove or goggles to eat hot sauce or drink lemon aid... you really wouldn't want either in your eyes.
1st
vesi vesi vesi
Torilla tavataan!
With Trypophobia looking at the pours of the metal makes me want to puke. It is crazy I forget that I have this Phobia till I Accidentally come across something that triggers it...
very sorry about that. i will put a warning in the description. my GF has Trypophobia, and i had to warn her.
Physics Anonymous thank you