Replacing the intake manifold LAND ROVER RANGE ROVER SPORT 3,0 306DT

This video shows a typical valve cover failure on a Range Rover Sport 3.0L TDV6.
This malfunction occurs on all versions of the 3.0L TDV6 engine, which is installed on a wide range of models.
A symptom of a broken cover is the inscription "Engine power limitation" and lack of traction during acceleration, as well as black smoke from the exhaust system.
Errors in the on-board computer are recorded by mass air flow and by lunch mixture.
For this diagnosis, it is necessary to check for errors, remove the decorative engine cover and increase the engine speed to 2500 - 3000 rpm, examine the operation of the intake manifold system. If a crack occurs and air pressure occurs during the occurrence of revolutions, then the intake manifold must be replaced.
Замена лопнувшего впускного коллектора: диагностика проблемы, порядок разборки / сборки

[@RobertsZuks]

Landed on the video i needed! Was debating on removing plastic covers on the side and coolant lines. Thank you!

[@royalsukurov5972]

Hi.I like this videi.Greeitings from Azeirbaijan.

[@RichardCutting]

How long did it take you please

[@pistolpete5189]

Thanks for the video I’m just about to get into mine and all I can think is why on earth are they made out of plastic in the 1st place? Is all most like they wanted it to fail 🤔

[@vitaliyburnashov537]

Unfortunately, the phrase remains relevant: "better is the enemy of good." The problem is that the economic issue falls entirely on the shoulders of the car owner. Not so long ago, I replaced the burst cylinder head covers on a BMW 530d and WV 1.6tdi

[@Yummy12306]

intake manifold bolt torque 10N-m ?

[@hallyfella]

Great video, mine is in for the same with my local Indy. How long did it take for the whole job please ?

[@vitaliyburnashov537]

thanks for the comments! I spent about three hours. Much depends on fiddling with fuel pipes and, of course, surface cleaning before installation

[@betinameier574]

Which failure code did you have .
I have also a broken manifold. But I had also the Code P1247 and P004B failure of the Turbo and P006A for manifold. Maybe all these code are the same problem ( a broken manifold )
Thanks a lot

[@vitaliyburnashov537]

Hi. Unfortunately, I did not save the error code. They were exactly on the boost pressure. In any case, you should hear a characteristic whistle of air to localize the crack.

[@Twindadentrepreneur]

Great video thank you and has helped me get mine out. Now the putting the new one back in, is there any tricks or tips? There’s a bolt right at the back which I’m wondering if I should unscrew a bit to allow more room think it’s at 4:35. I’ve wiggled and pushed and I just can’t seem to get it to sit. Thanks again

[@vitaliyburnashov537]

Thanks for the comments! That's right, I unscrewed this bolt almost to the end of the thread. Do not unscrew completely because it will be very difficult to put in place due to the lack of space for the hand. I completely forgot to add this to the description. thank you for reminding

[@Twindadentrepreneur]

@@vitaliyburnashov537 thanks I’ve managed to unscrew it back as much as I can. So in terms of the install, do I just wiggle until it slots in? Seems the cables are far too much in the way even after some cable tying.

[@vitaliyburnashov537]

@@Twindadentrepreneur pay attention to the cover gasket. When installing, it can catch on protruding elements and come off. Be patient and be careful - you will succeed! This work belongs to the class "uncomfortable")).

[@edwagon]

Thanks for the excellent video. At 3:15, the rear bolt for the fuel rail, how did you remove it? Mine is fouling on the EGR water inlet.

[@vitaliyburnashov537]

Thank you. I turned the bolt with a wrench for as long as I could, then used pliers for the last two/three turns. The bolt can be removed by tilting to the side. Before installation, I shortened it by about 3mm for ease of installation.

[@edwagon]

@@vitaliyburnashov537 Ahh I see, that worked perfectly! Thankyou. At 4:36, the lower fuel line with the tight curve which sits above the inlet manifold stud, did you loosen that at all? I have removed the 'bracket of doom' and have the manifold loose, just can't quite sneak it out past that line, and I see you have left yours in place. What is the trick?

[@vitaliyburnashov537]

@@edwagon I had to sweat a little). I was able to pull it out, but the protruding bolt pulled the gasket off the old manifold. Before installation, this bolt was unscrewed almost to the end with a ratchet wrench. Otherwise, do not install a new valve cover. In general, I made the following conclusion: in the case of replacing both collectors, it would be more convenient for me to raise the body and work as efficiently as possible, but in the situation on the video this is not advisable

[@edwagon]

@@vitaliyburnashov537 Yes I agree about lifting the body if you are doing both sides. I found that using cable ties to hold the 2x fuel pipes up out of the way made the job easier, there is enough "flex" in them to tie them out of the way without them "Bending" permanently. Thanks again for your video! It was a huge help.

[@vitaliyburnashov537]

@@edwagon Hello. Thank you very much for your feedback. I'm glad my video was helpful. I wish you good luck and successful repairs!

[@michaelcoode1689]

That looked easy but I’m doing one right now and it is a shit job hate working on these plastic monstrosities

[@vitaliyburnashov537]

Agree. Patience and calmness and you will succeed.