Replacing the intake manifold LAND ROVER RANGE ROVER SPORT 3,0 306DT

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  • Опубликовано: 8 ноя 2024

Комментарии • 25

  • @RobertsZuks
    @RobertsZuks 4 месяца назад

    Landed on the video i needed! Was debating on removing plastic covers on the side and coolant lines. Thank you!

  • @johnwayn6387
    @johnwayn6387 Месяц назад

    Hi mate. How did you get to the 10mm bolt that holds the rail on the one that you took 3mm off

  • @RichardCutting
    @RichardCutting Год назад +1

    How long did it take you please

  • @Yummy12306
    @Yummy12306 Год назад +1

    intake manifold bolt torque 10N-m ?

  • @hallyfella
    @hallyfella Год назад

    Great video, mine is in for the same with my local Indy. How long did it take for the whole job please ?

    • @vitaliyburnashov537
      @vitaliyburnashov537  Год назад +1

      thanks for the comments! I spent about three hours. Much depends on fiddling with fuel pipes and, of course, surface cleaning before installation

  • @Royal050
    @Royal050 4 месяца назад

    Hi.I like this videi.Greeitings from Azeirbaijan.

  • @Twindadentrepreneur
    @Twindadentrepreneur Год назад

    Great video thank you and has helped me get mine out. Now the putting the new one back in, is there any tricks or tips? There’s a bolt right at the back which I’m wondering if I should unscrew a bit to allow more room think it’s at 4:35. I’ve wiggled and pushed and I just can’t seem to get it to sit. Thanks again

    • @vitaliyburnashov537
      @vitaliyburnashov537  Год назад

      Thanks for the comments! That's right, I unscrewed this bolt almost to the end of the thread. Do not unscrew completely because it will be very difficult to put in place due to the lack of space for the hand. I completely forgot to add this to the description. thank you for reminding

    • @Twindadentrepreneur
      @Twindadentrepreneur Год назад

      @@vitaliyburnashov537 thanks I’ve managed to unscrew it back as much as I can. So in terms of the install, do I just wiggle until it slots in? Seems the cables are far too much in the way even after some cable tying.

    • @vitaliyburnashov537
      @vitaliyburnashov537  Год назад

      @@Twindadentrepreneur pay attention to the cover gasket. When installing, it can catch on protruding elements and come off. Be patient and be careful - you will succeed! This work belongs to the class "uncomfortable")).

  • @edwagon
    @edwagon 2 года назад

    Thanks for the excellent video. At 3:15, the rear bolt for the fuel rail, how did you remove it? Mine is fouling on the EGR water inlet.

    • @vitaliyburnashov537
      @vitaliyburnashov537  2 года назад

      Thank you. I turned the bolt with a wrench for as long as I could, then used pliers for the last two/three turns. The bolt can be removed by tilting to the side. Before installation, I shortened it by about 3mm for ease of installation.

    • @edwagon
      @edwagon 2 года назад

      @@vitaliyburnashov537 Ahh I see, that worked perfectly! Thankyou. At 4:36, the lower fuel line with the tight curve which sits above the inlet manifold stud, did you loosen that at all? I have removed the 'bracket of doom' and have the manifold loose, just can't quite sneak it out past that line, and I see you have left yours in place. What is the trick?

    • @vitaliyburnashov537
      @vitaliyburnashov537  2 года назад

      @@edwagon I had to sweat a little). I was able to pull it out, but the protruding bolt pulled the gasket off the old manifold. Before installation, this bolt was unscrewed almost to the end with a ratchet wrench. Otherwise, do not install a new valve cover. In general, I made the following conclusion: in the case of replacing both collectors, it would be more convenient for me to raise the body and work as efficiently as possible, but in the situation on the video this is not advisable

    • @edwagon
      @edwagon 2 года назад

      @@vitaliyburnashov537 Yes I agree about lifting the body if you are doing both sides. I found that using cable ties to hold the 2x fuel pipes up out of the way made the job easier, there is enough "flex" in them to tie them out of the way without them "Bending" permanently. Thanks again for your video! It was a huge help.

    • @vitaliyburnashov537
      @vitaliyburnashov537  2 года назад

      @@edwagon Hello. Thank you very much for your feedback. I'm glad my video was helpful. I wish you good luck and successful repairs!

  • @betinameier574
    @betinameier574 Год назад

    Which failure code did you have .
    I have also a broken manifold. But I had also the Code P1247 and P004B failure of the Turbo and P006A for manifold. Maybe all these code are the same problem ( a broken manifold )
    Thanks a lot

    • @vitaliyburnashov537
      @vitaliyburnashov537  Год назад

      Hi. Unfortunately, I did not save the error code. They were exactly on the boost pressure. In any case, you should hear a characteristic whistle of air to localize the crack.

  • @pistolpete5189
    @pistolpete5189 Год назад +1

    Thanks for the video I’m just about to get into mine and all I can think is why on earth are they made out of plastic in the 1st place? Is all most like they wanted it to fail 🤔

    • @vitaliyburnashov537
      @vitaliyburnashov537  Год назад

      Unfortunately, the phrase remains relevant: "better is the enemy of good." The problem is that the economic issue falls entirely on the shoulders of the car owner. Not so long ago, I replaced the burst cylinder head covers on a BMW 530d and WV 1.6tdi

  • @michaelcoode1689
    @michaelcoode1689 Год назад +1

    That looked easy but I’m doing one right now and it is a shit job hate working on these plastic monstrosities