A mindset for budget build, a gift for mechanical building, and God-given abilities to adapt your skills to achieve your goals... A recipe for success! I can't wait to see you cutting lumber on your property with it. God bless! Keep up the good work!
Great series! You are motivating me to think hard about building one. Your design seems very doable given my low skill level. Looking forward to the the next video !
Matt Cremona built a behemoth sawmill but spent a ton in money & time. Both you and he have saved much more in lieu of actually buying one, but I like your ingenuity better. Looking really good. Can't wait for you to put it to good use on your homestead.
Small pulley on the motor , Large pulley on the drive shaft will slow the blade down . Looking forward to see how that blade stays on when under load... I like you doing the LOW COST build ,, keep the vids coming... PS look up machinist handbook to get ratios to rpms
So far, so good. Someone commented that you just need a ATV or lawnmower throttle cable. He is correct, you do not need a different carb. The only issue you may have with that is the actual throttle cable clamp on the carb brackets. Although, most engines have the provision for it. You just need to look close. For a 11 HP engine, your SPFM (surface feet per minute) blade speed should be right at 3,700 SFPM according to Cooks Saw website. See link below. Your drive pulley is a little small and your driven pulley is way to small There are other sites out there that have the actual formulas for that. I believe the link also has those formulas. I also noticed the belt on there looks like a "B" belt with "A" groove pulleys. WHat are you going to do for blade tracking / adjustment?? You have a really sweet build going on there and I love your dogs name.....Ruger. I had a beagle named Remington. www.cookssaw.com/index.php/increase-portable-sawmill-profits-a-production/how-fast-should-a-bandwheel-turn
As a retired machinist tool and die maker with 50 years experience this is the first time I've ever seen anybody use an angle grinder to cut a keyway in a shaft. kudos great job
I have yet to watch those videos and am looking like a kid at the theater waiting to go in, get a pop corn and snack if lucky and still watch the cartoon before the video. Those were the days.
We're building a portable bandsaw mill right now. Starting with an old motorcycle, but really appreciate your build ideas. Subscribed and eagerly awaiting the next build video!
When are you going to make the final part? I would like to see final results and any new challenges not to mention see it work . I'm planning to build one and I like your designs .
Good ideas...just one observation. The engine could be mounted facing the other direction(pull cord towards back) that way you would not have to stand in front of the moving blade upon start up.
You're done by now, but to get the blade length if both wheels are the same diameter, try the following: Center of shaft to center of shaft times two, plus the circumference of one wheel. If the wheels are different diameter, it is C to C x's 2 + 1/2 Circumference + 1/2 Circumference. Very good video series sir. I'm late to the party but I'm sure by now all is functioning well.
You need a larger belt pulley on the drive side of the saw, like a 12 or 14 inch dia. pulley and a 3 to 4 dia. on the engine. Need at least 3.50 to 1 or 3.70 to 1 Pulley ratio, to get the right amount of blade speed or feet per minute.
super thank u especially for the parts list!! BUT: At minute 3:26 you tell the audience u use a B-59inch belt to create the traaction for the pulley./ Sheve...the packet does however show B56? is this a mistake or is a B56-belt 59 inches long? i just don't want to buy the wrong stuff since I am shipping all this to Europe... have u been happy so far with your cast steel sheaves?
Hey man. Idea to help with ur welding.. u should get some wire wheels for ur grinder. Make sure they are "twisted steel) get a 4 inch wheel and a 3 inch cup, ull be able to jave polished welds with no slag left over and it helps clean off the splatter beeds.
maybe i am a little late saying it but the blades for my woodmiser are just a little shorter than what you have there and reasonably priced (specs say i can do a 36 inch log , i have made it go 40
What speed do you want the saw blade to run at? Do the math backwards from there. I've seen values of around 3000-5000 sfpm (surface feet per minute). The circumference of your 19"ish sheave is pi*diameter, 59" as you know already, close enough to 5 feet to round. If you want 3000 sfpm and 5' circumference, you need 600 RPM. From your 3600 RPM motor, you need a 6:1 reduction on your V belt. On that 3" or so sheave you need to put ANOTHER 18" pulley to run it. Or you could do 2" and 12" (a lot cheaper, but 2" may or may not have enough contact to avoid slip depending how tight you have it). If you needed 6000 sfpm though the math works a lot more in your favor, you'd only need a 3:1 reduction and so a 3" and 9" sheave.
Really, really, really nice, so far. How are you going to keep the telescoping parts from seizing from rusting together and/or flex? I ask because you didn't mention it.
I am not sure how much you will be using your mill, but if it is a lot, have you considered buying blades in bulk lengths and custom sizing to fit your wheels?
The blades aren't too bad. $25-$75. I've found them at a standard length that will fit my mill. I will have to keep a few around. I think Lennox are some of the best.
Not to be a "Safety Sally" but are you going to be standing in front of the blade as you start the engine or are you going to rig an electric start or something else? Love your videos. I can't wait to see the mill work. This is a great build.
if anyone reads this, just use a pulley calculator. It will show you the speeds and can show you how large or small both ends need to be and what rpms you get. Will save you a lot of heartache.
the only thing i can see wrong is with direct drive sheave is it will continually turn saw blade at a dangerous speed. But if you put a clutch assembly on their it will stop when motor slows down.
I started on a 110v welder and learned more from that welder than a nice 220v welder. Try it. Get a hobart or a miller. Don't get a cheap one. Go to work!
Most entry level flux core wire fed mig welders are capable of being upgraded at a later time to use shielding gas. I started with a Lincoln Electric weld pak 100 18 years ago. After some practice, and after saving up some cash, I purchased the gas upgrade kit, and bolted it on. Good luck.
On second thought with your carb. After I posted the first comment, I checked on YT for late model Briggs powered generators. There is no throttle linkage plates on it to mount a throttle cable to. The RPM is controlled directly from the governor link. There may be a way to restrict the governor link itself. I don't know. This could be a major dilemma for you. A lawn mower shop may have some used linkage that could be used or at least tell you what you will need. I don't think a new carb is going to solve this problem.
Can you take a couple of pictures of the governor link coming out of the block and linkage to the carb and send them to me at mada94fxr@gmail.com and I will see if I can help you out here. From what I saw on YT yesterday, this could be a tough nut to crack without linkage brackets off a suitable engine. Also send me the model, type, family... Basically, all data tag info and let me see what I can find. The proper brackets may be available from Jacks Small Engines or something like that. I need that info to even have a starting place for finding something. There are so many variations of the same engines, depending on application. If I can find something, I WILL let you know. Mark
OK I've done it myself but DO NOT use power equipment with loose clothing like drilling with your coat open. Did it with an auger bit and a zippered sweatshirt. Fortunately I'm a big man and when it caught my clothes I was just strong and fast enough to force it away from me before it gutted me. It only takes a second.
Do you think you should just to be safe is to drill the end of your drive wheel and your other wheel the center of your shaft and put a bolt with a washer on it so there isn't any chance of your wheels to come flying off while your into a log seeing how you just have a key way in the ends of your drive shave only again just my thoughts and with you having kids out there by the Michine milling wood I would hate to see a wheel to fly off and hurt anyone
Watch your eyes brother, I have lost grinding wheels before and was lucky with just safety glasses. I should have had a face shield. It just isn't worth getting your eyes screwed up!
That poor dog is probably crying because his eyes are hurting from they welding UV... Those dogs shouldn't even be in the area when you're welding... Would you let your kids play that close to you when you're welding... I would think not... Man think about the dogs and get them out of there... I see this way to often...
A mindset for budget build, a gift for mechanical building, and God-given abilities to adapt your skills to achieve your goals... A recipe for success! I can't wait to see you cutting lumber on your property with it.
God bless! Keep up the good work!
Good old American backyard engineering. Some of the best inventions in America have come from that.
I would love to offer some good old good old American engineering from my shop but I haven't built it yet... One of these days.
More than just entertaining.......it's educational. Great series...keep up great work.
Good old American backyard engineering. Some of the best inventions have come from that.
Love watching this build come along! You sir, are talented!
very interesting looking forward to seeing more of the build and it working.
crazy how this was recommended ! I've been watching this channel for so long already!!
I thought I was the only person in the US that used a lube when cutting steel.
Great video again.
Thank you
Rod
looks great! Can't wait to see her cutting some slabs!
Great series! You are motivating me to think hard about building one. Your design seems very doable given my low skill level. Looking forward to the the next video !
Thanks Rob!
Matt Cremona built a behemoth sawmill but spent a ton in money & time. Both you and he have saved much more in lieu of actually buying one, but I like your ingenuity better. Looking really good. Can't wait for you to put it to good use on your homestead.
Small pulley on the motor , Large pulley on the drive shaft will slow the blade down . Looking forward to see how that blade stays on when under load... I like you doing the LOW COST build ,, keep the vids coming... PS look up machinist handbook to get ratios to rpms
Another great video Thanks for sharing your life's adventures
Thanks for watching!
So far, so good. Someone commented that you just need a ATV or lawnmower throttle cable. He is correct, you do not need a different carb. The only issue you may have with that is the actual throttle cable clamp on the carb brackets. Although, most engines have the provision for it. You just need to look close. For a 11 HP engine, your SPFM (surface feet per minute) blade speed should be right at 3,700 SFPM according to Cooks Saw website. See link below. Your drive pulley is a little small and your driven pulley is way to small There are other sites out there that have the actual formulas for that. I believe the link also has those formulas. I also noticed the belt on there looks like a "B" belt with "A" groove pulleys.
WHat are you going to do for blade tracking / adjustment?? You have a really sweet build going on there and I love your dogs name.....Ruger. I had a beagle named Remington.
www.cookssaw.com/index.php/increase-portable-sawmill-profits-a-production/how-fast-should-a-bandwheel-turn
Thanks a million. I went back and found the size you mention. B67
the man free handed key way slots lol impressive 😎. I'm totally digging the project so far ... yea the new carb you can adjust the rpm somewhat 😎
As a retired machinist tool and die maker with 50 years experience this is the first time I've ever seen anybody use an angle grinder to cut a keyway in a shaft.
kudos great job
You say you are not a professional welder, but you are a better than average daubber!!! I doubt this will fall apart!!!
I have yet to watch those videos and am looking like a kid at the theater waiting to go in, get a pop corn and snack if lucky and still watch the cartoon before the video. Those were the days.
We're building a portable bandsaw mill right now. Starting with an old motorcycle, but really appreciate your build ideas. Subscribed and eagerly awaiting the next build video!
It will be up very soon!
When are you going to make the final part? I would like to see final results and any new challenges not to mention see it work . I'm planning to build one and I like your designs .
In the process.
Your a very smart man , lots of good skills
Good ideas...just one observation. The engine could be mounted facing the other direction(pull cord towards back) that way you would not have to stand in front of the moving blade upon start up.
You're done by now, but to get the blade length if both wheels are the same diameter, try the following: Center of shaft to center of shaft times two, plus the circumference of one wheel. If the wheels are different diameter, it is C to C x's 2 + 1/2 Circumference + 1/2 Circumference. Very good video series sir. I'm late to the party but I'm sure by now all is functioning well.
i ran 15 3/4 pulleys and ran the tight belts. good job.
nice video friend. cant wait to see this thing in action.
You need a larger belt pulley on the drive side of the saw, like a 12 or 14 inch dia. pulley and a 3 to 4 dia. on the engine. Need at least 3.50 to 1 or 3.70 to 1 Pulley ratio, to get the right amount of blade speed or feet per minute.
super thank u especially for the parts list!! BUT: At minute 3:26 you tell the audience u use a B-59inch belt to create the traaction for the pulley./ Sheve...the packet does however show B56? is this a mistake or is a B56-belt 59 inches long? i just don't want to buy the wrong stuff since I am shipping all this to Europe...
have u been happy so far with your cast steel sheaves?
Hey man. Idea to help with ur welding.. u should get some wire wheels for ur grinder. Make sure they are "twisted steel) get a 4 inch wheel and a 3 inch cup, ull be able to jave polished welds with no slag left over and it helps clean off the splatter beeds.
I really appreciate the video. I want to do this soon. Im gonna hafta try to be a bit cheaper but yours is amazing
Nicely done keyway.
Getting close!
Any chances of getting dimensions of pieces. The videos are pretty clear... just trying to avoid wasted metal from mistakes.
You need to make stops for the pillow blocks, front on the inside, rear on the outside.
maybe i am a little late saying it but the blades for my woodmiser are just a little shorter than what you have there and reasonably priced (specs say i can do a 36 inch log , i have made it go 40
What speed do you want the saw blade to run at? Do the math backwards from there. I've seen values of around 3000-5000 sfpm (surface feet per minute). The circumference of your 19"ish sheave is pi*diameter, 59" as you know already, close enough to 5 feet to round. If you want 3000 sfpm and 5' circumference, you need 600 RPM. From your 3600 RPM motor, you need a 6:1 reduction on your V belt. On that 3" or so sheave you need to put ANOTHER 18" pulley to run it. Or you could do 2" and 12" (a lot cheaper, but 2" may or may not have enough contact to avoid slip depending how tight you have it). If you needed 6000 sfpm though the math works a lot more in your favor, you'd only need a 3:1 reduction and so a 3" and 9" sheave.
I would like to run it around 300rpms.
Those 2 big wheels...must be from cast iron? Aluminum with flanges and bearings will work?
Really, really, really nice, so far. How are you going to keep the telescoping parts from seizing from rusting together and/or flex? I ask because you didn't mention it.
I am not sure how much you will be using your mill, but if it is a lot, have you considered buying blades in bulk lengths and custom sizing to fit your wheels?
Lot's of grease!
The blades aren't too bad. $25-$75. I've found them at a standard length that will fit my mill. I will have to keep a few around. I think Lennox are some of the best.
Great build. Question?. What size belt did you used on your 18 in wheels. thanks a million
I went down to the local parts house and went through the belts until I found the tightest one. Can't remember the exact size.
Have you ever done an update video on this once you ran it a few years? Was it worth it? What was the final cost etc? I would be interested of so
Not to be a "Safety Sally" but are you going to be standing in front of the blade as you start the engine or are you going to rig an electric start or something else? Love your videos. I can't wait to see the mill work. This is a great build.
I will build a guard to make it safer
What about using bike or motorcycle chain?
Good work Thank you for the video Take Care
if anyone reads this, just use a pulley calculator. It will show you the speeds and can show you how large or small both ends need to be and what rpms you get. Will save you a lot of heartache.
please where eye protection, are you you going to put an idler pulley between the engine and drive pulley?
Have you thought of using clutch on your motor?
just curious, don't you need a clutch pulley on the engine output shaft?
Yes. I've made some changes to it.
You end up putting a three to four inch clutch on it if not you be turning engine off and on to stop blade from turning constantly
the only thing i can see wrong is with direct drive sheave is it will continually turn saw blade at a dangerous speed. But if you put a clutch assembly on their it will stop when motor slows down.
Great job, where you buy the pulleys i want this
ebay
I put my telescopic locking bolts in the corner of the large tube at 45 degrees, I'm not sure if that helps you...God bless the good...doug
I dig your music.
Where did you get your pulleys and eventually your blade?
I found my pulleys on Ebay and my blade on the local net but they are also on ebay.
Great job! Any advise for a beginner on a decent welder to do stuff like this? I'm in the market.
I started on a 110v welder and learned more from that welder than a nice 220v welder. Try it. Get a hobart or a miller. Don't get a cheap one. Go to work!
Flux core good enough or go for the shielding gas and all that?
A gas welder is going to lay down a prettier bead but they are more expensive. Flux core is easy to learn on.
Most entry level flux core wire fed mig welders are capable of being upgraded at a later time to use shielding gas. I started with a Lincoln Electric weld pak 100 18 years ago. After some practice, and after saving up some cash, I purchased the gas upgrade kit, and bolted it on. Good luck.
the carb is fine, you need a different throttle control.....like a go cart or edger/ snowblower . maybe bypass the governor
On second thought with your carb. After I posted the first comment, I checked on YT for late model Briggs powered generators. There is no throttle linkage plates on it to mount a throttle cable to. The RPM is controlled directly from the governor link. There may be a way to restrict the governor link itself. I don't know. This could be a major dilemma for you. A lawn mower shop may have some used linkage that could be used or at least tell you what you will need. I don't think a new carb is going to solve this problem.
I'm trying to figure out if I can adjust the govenor or not.
Can you take a couple of pictures of the governor link coming out of the block and linkage to the carb and send them to me at mada94fxr@gmail.com and I will see if I can help you out here. From what I saw on YT yesterday, this could be a tough nut to crack without linkage brackets off a suitable engine. Also send me the model, type, family... Basically, all data tag info and let me see what I can find. The proper brackets may be available from Jacks Small Engines or something like that. I need that info to even have a starting place for finding something. There are so many variations of the same engines, depending on application. If I can find something, I WILL let you know. Mark
Amazing!
Think of the gears on a bike, small gear in front and biggest gear in back makes it real slow
OK I've done it myself but DO NOT use power equipment with loose clothing like drilling with your coat open. Did it with an auger bit and a zippered sweatshirt. Fortunately I'm a big man and when it caught my clothes I was just strong and fast enough to force it away from me before it gutted me. It only takes a second.
Why don't you use some Teflon to take up the slop
what is the name of the website for parts?
Move the hand crank pulley to different location . self locking nuts
needs some type of clutch on the engine so the blade is not spinning all the time like a clutch from a go cart or tiller
I don't want to run one unless I have to. I have a centrifugal clutch. We'll see.
Do you think you should just to be safe is to drill the end of your drive wheel and your other wheel the center of your shaft and put a bolt with a washer on it so there isn't any chance of your wheels to come flying off while your into a log seeing how you just have a key way in the ends of your drive shave only again just my thoughts and with you having kids out there by the Michine milling wood I would hate to see a wheel to fly off and hurt anyone
These are great ideas. I used thread lock on everything but I'm sure I will need to do other things like this down the road.
Why did you made it so wide? Half of that and it would still be too wide, in my opinion.
Put some goggles on and a guard on your grinder! Its not big or clever.
Love the project and detailed description of decision making though.
Thanks
what about a clutch?
Trying not to use one but I may need to.
Very Good, 2nd Watch!... 113 🐄🦉✝
blade length = 2x axel/axel OC + πd
Your engine sounded like it was running way to fast, I wonder if there may be a governor issue.
Yes... Trying to adjust the govenor.
Your larger square stock is too thin gauge I think. Use all same thickness metals.
Did you cut ur girls hand at 10:25?
not quite...
Sir please provide the machine digarm , materials name ,use all material,machine costs and machine sanctification please sir...... Urgent please.....
I was guessing you were some sort of metal fabricator but you just said you're not a welder.
Journeyman plumber
woot
Belts a B56 and you called it a 59 inch. Whats up.
Thats how the numbers worked at the parts house.
Dude this is awesome but please wear some eye protection
Looking great !! If you get a chance look at "Matthew Cremona" RUclips channel. His homemade mill is a BEAST !!
I checked it out awhile back. My head started to hurt when I started figuring out how much money he had tied up in his mill. It's way nice.
Watch your eyes brother, I have lost grinding wheels before and was lucky with just safety glasses. I should have had a face shield. It just isn't worth getting your eyes screwed up!
Your saying belt instead of blade
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😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅
Instead of the belts I would of poured urethane
That poor dog is probably crying because his eyes are hurting from they welding UV... Those dogs shouldn't even be in the area when you're welding... Would you let your kids play that close to you when you're welding... I would think not... Man think about the dogs and get them out of there... I see this way to often...
1st...
OK Just call me stupid.
Way to fast
What about using bike or motorcycle chain?
I'm sure it would work but belts seem to be a lot more forgiving and less likely to hurt anything when they come off.
Gregg Woods cable will stretch over time. Use bike chain or heavy camshaft chain.