As a small child, I was never more happily taking stuff apart, I rarely got them back together, I can now proudly say I can put stuff back together better than the left the factory usually lighter a few spare screws left over it probably didn't need them anyway.
As a young boy I tried to fix a wiring issue with the family Honda 90 3-wheeler well after it came back from the dealer the mechanic told my dad to "break my fingers" so as to not allow me to ever again mess with any machine. I never stopped taking machines apart and learning all I.could, today I can fix just about anything I own.
As a former steam boiler technician I can recognize the Clever Brooks green paint all over it! Commonly used to operate the gas valve on boilers. Its operated by a 135 ohm pot and be set for 90 deg or 160 deg operation. These are very reliable old school actuator that is still used today. Keep your stick in a vice!
There's always something beautiful about seeing how they figured out electrics before the abundance of computers. The thought process of overcoming your problem with pure analog parts is always great.
shurdi3 I once used a hydraulic ram that was controlled by a beautiful mechanical needle that moved just like the control in this thing, you applied a current and it bent the needle, then the hydraulic fluid would flow the other way and move until the system was balanced
I always backtrack on myself like ten times when I describe this sentiment to people: "Like, sure, the ingenuity and technology that goes into ICs is one of the greatest accomplishments of humankind BUT! The kinds of solutions people used to come up with for what are now mundane for loops or if/else statements are so clever... And yeah, yeah, it's unbelievable that you can cram actual billions of transistors into a tiny chip, but the physical applications can just be so boring."
There's a guy on RUclips that sneaks into old elevator motor rooms and man the old analog elevator controls are always gorgeous and fascinating to watch.
There are 8 coils so not 3-phase - looks similar to a synchronous motor - uses the capacitor to make it prefer to rotate in one direction - you can conrtol the direction of these by changing the capacitor connection.
mikeselectricstuff we use sync motors for antenna rotor control with a cap to switch the direction of rotation. The ones i run into are 4 pole but same difference as 8 pole.
Given that this motor is turning around standstill often, I'd hazard to guess it's asynchronous - non permanent magnet rotor. For that application, synchronisity (?) isn't critical anyway. Under heavy load, it'll just slow down a little bit...
I was scratching my noodle on this, I thought it looked like a single phase induction motor, it occurred to me maybe being from one of the colonies it might take some of that weird two phase 220V you guys like and then convert one to the third phase with the cap. But what you said makes much more sense, you’ve given me something to google, cheers
Mike, exactly, a three phase would have either 6 or 9 stator windings. the three wires are either for CW/CCW/Common, or Hot/Neu, and the third for the windings that correct the slip angle (cant remember the correct name)
These things are the best. They have a stupid amount of torque, have analog output and can be controlled with 2 relays. If you want to control BIG stuff with an arduino or pi this is the thing you want. Also, the wound wire rheostat is called a "slide wire" they are pretty robust.
Taking apart things and putting them back together is the reason I’m in the career field I am today. I ended up getting into computers and PLCs because of my penchant for destruction and reconstruction and all. Now I get paid to take them apart, find out what was wrong, fix it and put it back together again. Loving your videos, and thank you for not being like the other RUclips channels, they are controlled by sponsors and censored to high heaven. I love the real world factor you put in. Stay real, keep being you, and never be afraid of a little schmoo.
Crikey, i thought I'd accidentally clicked on a wranglerstar video by mistake. The naked product placement 😉The link for purchase will be in the doobily doo?
I actually found one close to it that was mass produced...has a clear plastic handle though. Amazing what happens when you look in forgotten tool bins.
Talking about taking apart Christmas presents on Christmas morning brought back a lot of good memories, thank you. I still love taking shit apart, and have passed it on to one of my sons.
I think I like these teardowns of old gear the best. Always interesting to see how another generation's minds solved problems with the technology at hand.
When You showed that hidden capacitor and explained it's existence, a brief flashback of my short career in maintenance services came back with explanation of why was something broken years back. I bet i could make it work now!
This is used as you explain, but is more commonly used as a positioner motor for dampers in a duct system of any kind. As in intake air, exhaust air, zoned systems etc. The latest iteration would be a modutrol4, used all over the world. The one you have, is known as a series 90, 135 ohm, it is a 3 wire proportional based on the resistance of the internal rheostat for positive positioning. This is done through r1-w1-b1 terminals to a matching 135 ohm controller, it always tries to maintain the 135 ohm balance in the circuit, (Wheatstone bridge). They are also made in 0-20ma, and 0-10vdc drive. You can also install a module to convert the series 90 to electronic control.
We run 14 of these where I work 10 are for metering combustion air to burners in ovens and the other 4 are for are on globe valves to meter steam to coils for humidity control. AVE you are almost on point whit how they operate. A steady 24VAC is fed in at L1 and L2 and a control signal is fed in at the other connections(not using conn tags because they are different for some of these). When the control signal is fed in it goes to both the rheostat looking devise(used as an equalizing encoder) and the direction switches that just behind it. If the control signal is higher than the position on encoder it will cause the contact arm to lean one direction and turn the motor in that direction and if control is lower the the contact arm leans the other way and turns the motor in reverse. As for the motors in the ones we run they are not 3 phase but have 2 sets of windings one for forward and one for reverse this looks to be the case in yours as well but it's hard to see the wiring to know for sure. However though it could be a 3 phase being ran on dirty conversion I see it more often than one would think.
I never understood electrical stuff. It baffles me how guys like Westinghouse and Tesla developed the processes that drive our world today. Think about it. Yes, we are very much living in a digital age. But the basic electrical building blocks haven't changed since the nineteenth century. Thank you AvE for this awesome video!!!
My old man was a combustion engineer, oil fired power stations, oil fired ships etc, anyway he snuffed it in 1984 and when I got around to sorting out his shed load of junk I found one of these, I used it for a chicken shed door opener/closer on a time switch for many years. Breaks my heart to see one ripped apart. Still got mine sat in my shed, bet she still works too
Very interesting, I worked in the hevac industry for 35 years and encountered many such devices and never knew about the guts of them. They are used for damper controls for zone operation fresh air/ recirculating air etc. depending on the input requirements, specification etc. Used many of this brand it still is an industry leader albeit updated for todays more sophisticated requirements.
Great Videos. This is a cheap clone of the Honeywell servo unit designed to operate in the Minuteman ICBM Missle Sios of the early 1970's. Low humidity air was supplied to equipment cooling and regulated by the outlet air at each demand function. The actual government model kept refrigerant oil in the bath and was under vacuum so as to negate moisture for any corrosion inside the controller. These units were extremely reliable as you could imagine. Easy to rebuild back at base calibration shops. These military versions were disbanded after time and a different configuration used. 25 inches of vacuum was the demanded and achieved. This is a cheap knockoff as this goes if you can imagine that. I worked there on my tour. I love your videos and look forward to them.
Haven't read all the comments so I may be repeating something. Philips screws were introduced to improve indystrial output, too much time was being wasted trying to keep a slotted screwdrivers in place. Pozidrive was introduced to allow some flexibility in the position of the driver, it meant that the driver did not have to be dead square to the face of the screw. It also provided a reduction in cam out, the bit had a more positive engagement, hence the name. Tork was then introduced to provide a means of applying greater torque, I believe it came from the motor industry. Tork also provided a degree if security, at least until the bits became readily available. There's also a Tork screw with a pin in the centre of the recess that was a security fixing but of course the bits are now readily available.
Most of those mod motors were controlled with a 0-135 ohm pot. from a temp. or pressure controller. Use the RWB terminals.(R-B for big fire. R-W for wittle fire. Old way to remember).A motor crank arm and linkage would connect to the air damper/butterfly gas valve on forced draft boilers to "modulate" the flame between low fire and high fire.
We have several of these at work preforming both functions you describe, some units use them for both. One to control the incinerator burner and others to open and close dampers to control oven heat. It’s cool to see one taken apart.
Gay man here who happens to love your channel, gay jokes and all. As you always say, if you can’t laugh at yourself! I’m director of engineering for a hotel management company and tool freak! We maintain, repair, and replace all manner of equipment. I work on everything from automobiles to HVAC, plumbing, and electrical on the side. I was taking my sister’s music box apart at ten years old, just to see how the thing worked. (Never sounded the same again!) Been exploring the inners of every spinning thing since and can’t get enough of your tear downs! Keep ‘em coming, you vulgar genius! And a big shout-out from Louisiana!
I work in an old office building in downtown Toronto. Doors opened in 1914. I've work there for 25 years. In 1965 they installed air conditioning. Each floor has it's own Trane air handling unit. Each unit has 7 of these actuators (Honeywell Brauchman) Four zones per floor. One unit controls the steam valve for the coil, one for the cooling (chilled water) control, one for the fresh air recirculated air damper, the other 4 for the different zones controlled with thermostats. Filled with transmission fluid. They are work horses and never die if maintained properly. If you look at the plate on the top there should be a wiring diagram. Very interesting little things. And the first one I worked on I dumped the fluid all over the place also. Lol.
Thanks for reminding me of my youth and the demise of various clockworks, radios and non-replaceable machinery. Although it also brings to mind my Father's unpleasant reactions to some of my activities that fed my curious youthful brain.
Thanks for mentioning JIS as a cross head screw standard. This is key if you work on Japanese motorcycles. JIS screw heads will often, but not always, have a small dot or dimple on the head to let you know they are JIS. I don't want to shill on this channel but Vessel (Made in Japan) makes a nice JIS screwdriver. Chapman manufacturing (Made in USA) makes bits for use with 1/4" hex bit ratchets that are JIS. These took me forever to find for my motorcycle kit so that's why I wanted to share where to get them.
I still get that felling of wonder and excitement of taking things apart. First memory of that was at 4 or 5 years old, taking apart my fathers nice gold pocket watch to see how it worked.. Then a memory of the firm Consequences following..
It’s a split phase motor, white is probably neutral being as its Canakatastanien, connect the capacitor between yellow and red, and alternate the 24 volts from yellow to red for direction, same as any permanent split squirrel cage motor. Single phase motors are generally Not difficult to reverse but unlike 3 phase motors they have to be at rest to change their direction. Great vijayo Ave, love you work.
My Mom always wanted to know why I took everything apart. she would say: "after taking apart the eighth alarm clock, don't they all look the same?" So I sent her your video starting at 14:35. Cheers, Mark
Hey we have those on our furnaces! Except ours are Honeywell and are alot bigger but same concept. It's awesome to see you tear down this industrial equipment as it has helps me learn alot about this older stuff
HAH! You hit two of the nerves I have left! Back in the dayo, we had T.I. chit (Texas Instruments) Old, but gold tech back then that was a "sequencer", old version of ladder magic!! Worked the whole beast through the whole cycle & just started over! ALSO, the Germans realized about rubber oxidation way back in the war days. They would submerge tires in water (tanks, lakes, streams) to keep them fresh as a virgin! The use of high natural rubber content made tires shrivel like your Johnson when you piss out in 20 below!!!
Speaking of smells. I was a patrolman back in the day and had an old guy what went to his great reward in the back of an Astro van at the end of June during a nasty heat wave. 10 days later the neighbors complained about the whiff comin off o the van. My Sargent bulled up to the slidy door and gave it a yank while I back peddled like a mo fo. Sargent dumbarse then stuck his head in the van for a looksee while said old guy dripped full leak onto the curb. The look on Sargent Dipsticks face when he turned around was priceless and a thing to behold. He turned the color of your bench mat and the rubber neckers for 100 yards chain puked. It was epic. I grabbed a dust mask and smeared it with Noxema cold cream then went and retrieved the aforementioned Sgt who had gone to his knees like a bolted sow. Radio calls were made for the Jeebless meat wagon from a block away. The perimeter practically made itself.
These are used not only to control combustion air but also fuel. Big burners usually have one of these connected with a linkage to a ball valve to modulate natural gas flow into the burner. Often the linkage connects a ball valve and a combustion air vanes from the same motor so they modulate in lock with one another and adjusting the difference in position on the linkage will adjust air:fuel ratio. These things are everywhere.
Used to take my families alarm clocks apart and not not put them back to working order. My mum would freak out, my dad would laugh. That's enough about my dysfunctional family history. But Damn, I love the stuff you do.
Just like I spent my child hood, taking apart industrial kit apart and learning about it. Remember my dad taking a very similar servo from an asphalt plant burner apart and showing me it secrets
Thanks again for explaining the most useless of machinery. I only wish that you had been around when I used to come across an abundance of military surplus impliments that we had no idea what it was or how it worked. I truly enjoy these gems of knowledge and your step by step analysis of each part.
We use those on all the burners on the dryers in industrial laundry. They operate the gas valves and baffles for the blowers. We control them with the temperature. Our boilers have a really different type. I'd like to send you one of the old ones to tinker on.
Listening to you explain the switching reminds me of the main generator on the class 47 brush diesel locos that had decompounding winding inside the main generator to stop us heavy handy drivers overloading the generator and traction motors. An exciter current would be sent through an extra winding on the generator in the opposite direction of the main current and the two magnetic fields would try to balance each other out. No matter how hard you tried you simply couldn't overload them. Pretty clever stuff.
Rather than being a 3ph motor with 3 sets of coils, this appears to have 4 sets coils in it. With coils 1 & 3 being perpendicular and 2 & 4 perpendicular, that makes it easier to change the rotation of the motor without having to reverse the polarity of the capacitor.
I recently got into working with industrial HVAC and building management controls. It is insane how only in the past 10-15 years are controls moving away from pneumatic/physical control to DDC now. I love this stuff.
There were thousands of those things used for controlling the burners on small to medium size industrial steam boilers. The output was connected to a damper that controlled the volume of air to the combustion chamber and a linkage to a fuel valve which was characterised to allow the correct amount of fuel for clean combustion. A proportional signal from a pressure controller drove the valve and damper to open more when the boiler pressure was below the set point and to close when above set point. These were pretty much bullet proof,and never caused any problem. Now the burner electrics that drove them open and closed for purging and starting were another kettle of fish completely......
I loved this video! I have always loved taking things apart. When I was 5 years old I took my dad's beloved pocket watch apart. It "springen-sproken" everywhere. I had parts everywhere. I was too young to know how to put it back together. He never knew what happened to his pocket watch. It just disappeared. I never told him what happened. It was his favorite watch! He died not knowing what I had done. Some things you never tell about. The first thing I thought about when you got close to the motor - that it was an induction motor. The question I have is, after it "oiled" your table. How in the heck did they keep the motor sealed from the oil? They must have really good O-rings. Thanks again for the discombobulating effort!
In case nobody else commented, or i just missed it, the motor looks to be an AC servo motor. They are a two phase motor, often with a shared common (thus,three wires), and have one fixed voltage and frequency winding, and a second winding with a fixed frequency, but variable voltage. They are usually 120 VAC windings. They were very common in applications like this. They allowed fairly precise position control without using a brushed motor, or complex three phase AC servos, before brushless DC motors became common. They are very robust and low maintenance, and only real downside is they require a higher voltage power stage for full range control.
It’s a permanent split capacitor motor. Three wires are common, winding 1, and winding 2. Both windings are in parallel but one has the capacitor in series. Reversing is easy just have the capacitor switch which winding it’s in series with and rotation changes. This is supper easy with a single pole double throw switch. Imagine a triangle with Common at the bottom node, windings on the sides, and a capacitor on the top. So C-W1-Cap-W2-C. All you have to do is apply power at the node W1-Cap or Cap-W2, the one you choose determines rotation.
To confirm this on the motor just measure the resistances of between the three wires. 2 resistance measurements will be the same (w1-c, w2-c) and one will be the sum of both resistances (w1-w2).
Also used on furnaces that fire kettles. Variable output for variable temperature control in whatever you are heating in the kettle. I worked for awhile in a plant that produced polymers for the paint industry. We had several multi-stage furnaces with these on the kettles.
The Posi-Drive's blade thickness is constant from shaft to the point. Phillips has a taper. And in addition to JIS, there's also Reed & Prince, which uses a deeper cross slot in the fastener head (pointier driver). Q: How do you make a Phillips screwdriver? A: Vodka and milk of amnesia! Sa-loot!
"Nobody panic." Ah words that speak to the very lowest cockles of my heart, driving it in fear to the gutter almost as fast as the words "We need to talk."
I used to work in a aluminum die casting factory. We had a few gas fired pots for smaller hand ladled casting machines that used a similar mechanism to throttle the output of the combustion blowers on the burners. They used a simple thermocouple that sat in the molten aluminum in the pots to provide temperature feedback to the controller. Was always curious how those worked, but never had the chance to open one up. Pretty reliable units overall. Worked there for about six years and never had to change one out. Did change a lot of thermocouples, they lived a hard life. The PLCs on some of those older die cast machines were another story tho...... Antique TI and A-B units.
They use those or very similar type all over in HVAC. We use them in industrial NH3 refrigeration as back pressure regulators. There would be a cam attached to the motor that actuated a valve. This allows our control systems to maintain a pressure set point in the evaporator.
These get used for boiler burners a lot. Drive shaft will open and shut a fuel valve and an air damper with linkage and an adjustable cam so you get a good fuel to air ratio as she ramps up. Your RBW contacts there tie into the burner controller which will drive it through a light off sequence then depending on where your auto/ manual switch is, it either gets handed off to a pot for manual adjusting of the firing rate or to a modulator so it'll chooch all alone based on pressure or temperature.
There's another "cross" drive fastener some may encounter. "Reed and Prince". It resembles a Phillips, but has a 45 degree angle with a sharp point, instead of the 30 degree blunt point found on the Phillips. I used to run into them on the Goodyear deicing boots on older aircraft.
J Ballew how about tri wing fasteners. Planes are full of em. Most people who have to remove them are hoping the inventor of them is somewhere in as much pain as the mechanic who’s Stuck trying to remove a wing full of em!
I didn't know why you got excited when you opened the motor, I'm not that educated on these things. But as a man who tinkers that's such a relate-able great feeling that's one of my favorite parts of this channel.
Shaded pole motors are hard to reverse electrically. Single phase A/C motors (excluding shaded pole) are actually just 2 phase motors, the direction of rotation can be changed by reversing the the connection of any of the 2 windings. In this case, using a 3 phase motor over a 2 phase motors saves one relay contact.
It's a multi-pole single phase (split phase) motor. The cap phase shifts every other pole. the multiple poles makes it turn more slowly. (ceiling fans use a similar motor)
Used with an external temp control usually var resistance. R closes to B moves toward cooling R to W moves towards heating very small incremental moves. Mostly used to control the mixture of return air and outside fresh air mixture. Resistive stat causes a maintaining temp Switching stat cause full open or full close
Honeywell's rebranded these for use on large 100% shut outdoor air vane dampers & inlet air vane positioners on large centrifugal HVAC fans. Very durable positioner.
Those types of motors are used on the big old cleaver Brooks boilers. One is controlling air and oil in and the other controls a valve for water. The water in is controlled by a float with a magnet on it which moves a wiper arm on a rheostat. Completely separated no seals.
I see those on dampers for smoke control on fire alarm systems. They often have a dual limit switch to tie to building automation or fire alarm proving circuits to confirm that the damper is closed or open. I was going to rip a dead one apart to see the innards but now I don't have to. Thanks for saving my nose.
Another term for these are "mod motors" you can also use them to manage the air pressure in a furnace or kiln especially where zero oxygen environments are required. For example some furnaces are hydrogen purged due to chemical interaction with the materials being sintered. I was working on a mod motor last night on a nickel furnace
This is part of what is referred to as series 90 controls. It uses 135 ohm control signals and is what initially replaced pneumatic proportional controls in the HVAC industry. Typical usage for the actuator in this video would be for a damper in an air handler, a hot/cold water control valve, or to operate a capacity control on a boiler via a jackshaft burner control.
I took one of these apart over Christmas break. Neat piece of industrial kit. Only differences were the huge wound spring box, a shaded pole motor with both forward and reverse windings, and bull gear made of micarta or similar composite instead of nylon. The cast aluminum sproinged open violently and almost took a finger with it. It had a real heavy preload: maybe to keep the return torque constant?
It’s more than just about temperature, you can control environmental emissions by keeping your combustion air in proportion with your fuel. A slight reduction reaction lowers the production of NOx and clever design recirculating the combustion gases can reduce it further. You can look in the burner products from John Zink, Callidus(Honeywell), or Zeeco which are all based in my hometown and a former employer offering lower NOx burners for refits. I was an instrumentation engineer so we just spent money and didn’t have to tune the reaction.
I can finally contribute to a video! I have one of these Modutrol servos on my natural gas powder curing oven. It does not control the flue however. A thermocouple in the oven sends feedback to a proportional-integral-derivative controller witch then modulates a 4-20ma signal to the Modutrol to control a butterfly gas valve coordinating with the temperature set value. The flue is controlled by exhaust fan speed, witch in turn is controlled by a VFD. Now I know not to crack it open and let the rancid fish oil out!
None of this stuff makes sense to me, but I enjoy the videos, and more so enjoy FEELING like I've learned something. I DID, however, learn what Cunningham's law is tonight -- so for that I thank you.
These where used on any kind of damper. Flue or otherwise, both as a "servo" or versions with 2 pos or spring return. Real strong but no fun to mount or handle the linkage systems, or when they started to leak if seldom. Nowdays you use direct axle mounted motors on dampers with integrated linkage systems. Weaker and cheaper but so much easier to mount and handle.
Recall a Christmas in 78 where I took apart a toy electric car, enjoyed it, and put it back togeather. From that point on, the car ran backwards when turned on. Biggest spanking for a long time.
Ahhh The ol' Honeywell Modutrol!!! We have these on our heating boilers to control both the air and the water level, they can be hooked to anything... It would be sweet if you had a corresponding part with the bridge circuit so they could be paired up to operate. The typical setup is 90 degrees, or 100 degrees, I can't remember for sure. I've got a manual somewhere on my puter for one of those, if you want a copy...
We should find some of the old pneumatic automation control devices for you to BOLTR. Haven't toyed much with those but I was awestruck once way back when I was part of dismantling a old PI(perhaps D) pneumatic regulator, so much nice clock and pipe work. Love these old devices, like my old mercury contact thermostat that used to be in my old greenery, which got replaced by your favourite ESP8266 wifi device.
It's fun watching you open something you know nothing about! I only know that because that honeywell mod motor is one of the most common things I replace in my job. P.s. I laughed when the oil came out, sorry...
thats either a pre rotation vane guide or variable geometry diffuser for york chiller centrifugal compressor. that color to me is very unmistakable. 11:07 its has reverse forward function. yellow is common red is forward and white is back.
The buna-n reminded me of a real interesting book called Skunk Works: A Personal Memoir of My Years at Lockheed by Ben Rich. In there he mentions rubber used in very high altitude spy planes falling apart quickly. They found that ozone was destroying it. Even though they were up near space and the air pressure was very low, the highly reactive form of oxygen was causing problems. The book provides some great examples of surprising engineering challenges involved with working in extreme conditions and having to invent solutions along the way. It also has information relating to working on top secret programs with details that I'm surprised isn't still restricted.
How you reverse the direction of a single phase motor is you change the phase shift of the start winding compared to the run winding. Find the 2 wires going to the start winding and the 2 wires going to the run winding, swap either pair. You can still do forward/reverse on 2 contactors but you need to run 4 wires from the motor to the controller.
The other terminals are a metal resistor that goes into the flue. One wire on side of the resistor and two wires on the other side that makes the lengths of the wire over 5 feet. The boilers at the place that I worked on them had them.
Its probably a 2 phase motor (aka Cap Start Cap Run motor). The 2 windings are both connected to neutral one end, and the cap is connected between the other end of the 2 windings, connect Live to one end of the cap for forward and or the other end for reverse
We called them venomat motors for blending cold in coming air with warm out going air in pig barn ventilation. Take out the limit and they turn about.75 rpm. Great for turning pigs on a spit over a fire
As a small child, I was never more happily taking stuff apart, I rarely got them back together, I can now proudly say I can put stuff back together better than the left the factory usually lighter a few spare screws left over it probably didn't need them anyway.
I've always said when missing a lug nut: if 4 won't hold it, 5 won't either
Piotr Sulej ha yep I've done three - if you lose all five then take one from each other wheel ;)
Nic Van Engen 1000 IQ
As a young boy I tried to fix a wiring issue with the family Honda 90 3-wheeler well after it came back from the dealer the mechanic told my dad to "break my fingers" so as to not allow me to ever again mess with any machine. I never stopped taking machines apart and learning all I.could, today I can fix just about anything I own.
As a former steam boiler technician I can recognize the Clever Brooks green paint all over it! Commonly used to operate the gas valve on boilers. Its operated by a 135 ohm pot and be set for 90 deg or 160 deg operation. These are very reliable old school actuator that is still used today. Keep your stick in a vice!
There's always something beautiful about seeing how they figured out electrics before the abundance of computers.
The thought process of overcoming your problem with pure analog parts is always great.
shurdi3 I once used a hydraulic ram that was controlled by a beautiful mechanical needle that moved just like the control in this thing, you applied a current and it bent the needle, then the hydraulic fluid would flow the other way and move until the system was balanced
yep, when they get dirty they may have little issues, but much more reliable than any computer bullcrap!
I built a drone only to learn the motors on it are 3 phase. They are controlled by electronic speed controllers and gets a regular pwm signal.
I always backtrack on myself like ten times when I describe this sentiment to people: "Like, sure, the ingenuity and technology that goes into ICs is one of the greatest accomplishments of humankind BUT! The kinds of solutions people used to come up with for what are now mundane for loops or if/else statements are so clever... And yeah, yeah, it's unbelievable that you can cram actual billions of transistors into a tiny chip, but the physical applications can just be so boring."
There's a guy on RUclips that sneaks into old elevator motor rooms and man the old analog elevator controls are always gorgeous and fascinating to watch.
A man with an astro van is never homeless
Jaydotno true. And theyre fairly reliable and abusable, definitely one of the better vans to have been made
I've got a non running Astro in my driveway now. Was wonderful while it lasted.
There are 8 coils so not 3-phase - looks similar to a synchronous motor - uses the capacitor to make it prefer to rotate in one direction - you can conrtol the direction of these by changing the capacitor connection.
mikeselectricstuff we use sync motors for antenna rotor control with a cap to switch the direction of rotation. The ones i run into are 4 pole but same difference as 8 pole.
Given that this motor is turning around standstill often, I'd hazard to guess it's asynchronous - non permanent magnet rotor. For that application, synchronisity (?) isn't critical anyway. Under heavy load, it'll just slow down a little bit...
I was scratching my noodle on this, I thought it looked like a single phase induction motor, it occurred to me maybe being from one of the colonies it might take some of that weird two phase 220V you guys like and then convert one to the third phase with the cap. But what you said makes much more sense, you’ve given me something to google, cheers
Yes, on some condensing ac units I've had fans running backwards after the dual cap sorted.
Mike, exactly, a three phase would have either 6 or 9 stator windings.
the three wires are either for CW/CCW/Common, or Hot/Neu, and the third for the windings that correct the slip angle (cant remember the correct name)
These things are the best. They have a stupid amount of torque, have analog output and can be controlled with 2 relays. If you want to control BIG stuff with an arduino or pi this is the thing you want.
Also, the wound wire rheostat is called a "slide wire" they are pretty robust.
Nick Moore that's an expensive system haha
Nick Moore it also works on 120vac and you can set them up with a 135ohm 3 wire and it becomes a floating set point.
Ah...
Brings back memories of furnace flame control and variable orfice valves.
Taking apart things and putting them back together is the reason I’m in the career field I am today.
I ended up getting into computers and PLCs because of my penchant for destruction and reconstruction and all. Now I get paid to take them apart, find out what was wrong, fix it and put it back together again.
Loving your videos, and thank you for not being like the other RUclips channels, they are controlled by sponsors and censored to high heaven. I love the real world factor you put in. Stay real, keep being you, and never be afraid of a little schmoo.
wait... what? ... is that screwdriver for sale?! where to find? maybe I should watch to the end.
Crikey, i thought I'd accidentally clicked on a wranglerstar video by mistake. The naked product placement 😉The link for purchase will be in the doobily doo?
Yeah, I dunno why you'd want a full-tang titanium screwdriver, but let me buy one first!
This Old Tony just came here from your two piece vice build! Haha
I actually found one close to it that was mass produced...has a clear plastic handle though. Amazing what happens when you look in forgotten tool bins.
Talking about taking apart Christmas presents on Christmas morning brought back a lot of good memories, thank you. I still love taking shit apart, and have passed it on to one of my sons.
I think I like these teardowns of old gear the best. Always interesting to see how another generation's minds solved problems with the technology at hand.
When You showed that hidden capacitor and explained it's existence, a brief flashback of my short career in maintenance services came back with explanation of why was something broken years back. I bet i could make it work now!
This is used as you explain, but is more commonly used as a positioner motor for dampers in a duct system of any kind. As in intake air, exhaust air, zoned systems etc. The latest iteration would be a modutrol4, used all over the world. The one you have, is known as a series 90, 135 ohm, it is a 3 wire proportional based on the resistance of the internal rheostat for positive positioning. This is done through r1-w1-b1 terminals to a matching 135 ohm controller, it always tries to maintain the 135 ohm balance in the circuit, (Wheatstone bridge). They are also made in 0-20ma, and 0-10vdc drive. You can also install a module to convert the series 90 to electronic control.
Please a small correction. Damper actuators are always spring return for fail to common position.
We run 14 of these where I work 10 are for metering combustion air to burners in ovens and the other 4 are for are on globe valves to meter steam to coils for humidity control. AVE you are almost on point whit how they operate. A steady 24VAC is fed in at L1 and L2 and a control signal is fed in at the other connections(not using conn tags because they are different for some of these). When the control signal is fed in it goes to both the rheostat looking devise(used as an equalizing encoder) and the direction switches that just behind it. If the control signal is higher than the position on encoder it will cause the contact arm to lean one direction and turn the motor in that direction and if control is lower the the contact arm leans the other way and turns the motor in reverse. As for the motors in the ones we run they are not 3 phase but have 2 sets of windings one for forward and one for reverse this looks to be the case in yours as well but it's hard to see the wiring to know for sure. However though it could be a 3 phase being ran on dirty conversion I see it more often than one would think.
I never understood electrical stuff. It baffles me how guys like Westinghouse and Tesla developed the processes that drive our world today. Think about it. Yes, we are very much living in a digital age. But the basic electrical building blocks haven't changed since the nineteenth century. Thank you AvE for this awesome video!!!
My old man was a combustion engineer, oil fired power stations, oil fired ships etc, anyway he snuffed it in 1984 and when I got around to sorting out his shed load of junk I found one of these, I used it for a chicken shed door opener/closer on a time switch for many years. Breaks my heart to see one ripped apart. Still got mine sat in my shed, bet she still works too
Very interesting, I worked in the hevac industry for 35 years and encountered many such devices and never knew about the guts of them. They are used for damper controls for zone operation fresh air/ recirculating air etc. depending on the input requirements, specification etc. Used many of this brand it still is an industry leader albeit updated for todays more sophisticated requirements.
Great Videos. This is a cheap clone of the Honeywell servo unit designed to operate in the Minuteman ICBM Missle Sios of the early 1970's. Low humidity air was supplied to equipment cooling and regulated by the outlet air at each demand function. The actual government model kept refrigerant oil in the bath and was under vacuum so as to negate moisture for any corrosion inside the controller. These units were extremely reliable as you could imagine. Easy to rebuild back at base calibration shops. These military versions were disbanded after time and a different configuration used. 25 inches of vacuum was the demanded and achieved. This is a cheap knockoff as this goes if you can imagine that. I worked there on my tour. I love your videos and look forward to them.
Haven't read all the comments so I may be repeating something.
Philips screws were introduced to improve indystrial output, too much time was being wasted trying to keep a slotted screwdrivers in place.
Pozidrive was introduced to allow some flexibility in the position of the driver, it meant that the driver did not have to be dead square to the face of the screw. It also provided a reduction in cam out, the bit had a more positive engagement, hence the name.
Tork was then introduced to provide a means of applying greater torque, I believe it came from the motor industry.
Tork also provided a degree if security, at least until the bits became readily available. There's also a Tork screw with a pin in the centre of the recess that was a security fixing but of course the bits are now readily available.
Most of those mod motors were controlled with a 0-135 ohm pot. from a temp. or pressure controller. Use the RWB terminals.(R-B for big fire. R-W for wittle fire. Old way to remember).A motor crank arm and linkage would connect to the air damper/butterfly gas valve on forced draft boilers to "modulate" the flame between low fire and high fire.
Thank you for sharing your tip with me. I mean it.
As long as it's just the tip...
@@russelldodd93 and only for a minute
Just until the swelling goes down...
@@stanburton6224 my wife is familiar with that statement. Lol
We have several of these at work preforming both functions you describe, some units use them for both. One to control the incinerator burner and others to open and close dampers to control oven heat. It’s cool to see one taken apart.
Not a semiconductor in sight SOOO AWESOME.
There's a diode in parallel with the cap.
@@arthurreis1906 and what a fucking big boy he is too!
I never really thought about the difference between a servo and a motor. Once again thanks for all the good knowledge.
Nothing makes me happier than hearing AvE whipping out some true quebecer lingo. Le tabarnak y connait son affaire même si s'tune tête carrée!
Gay man here who happens to love your channel, gay jokes and all. As you always say, if you can’t laugh at yourself! I’m director of engineering for a hotel management company and tool freak! We maintain, repair, and replace all manner of equipment. I work on everything from automobiles to HVAC, plumbing, and electrical on the side. I was taking my sister’s music box apart at ten years old, just to see how the thing worked. (Never sounded the same again!) Been exploring the inners of every spinning thing since and can’t get enough of your tear downs! Keep ‘em coming, you vulgar genius! And a big shout-out from Louisiana!
Damper actuator! Old boilers have those. So do lot's of air handlers and stuff. Sometimes I even find old p-neumatic one! Good stuff, Maynard!
I work in an old office building in downtown Toronto. Doors opened in 1914. I've work there for 25 years. In 1965 they installed air conditioning. Each floor has it's own Trane air handling unit. Each unit has 7 of these actuators (Honeywell Brauchman) Four zones per floor. One unit controls the steam valve for the coil, one for the cooling (chilled water) control, one for the fresh air recirculated air damper, the other 4 for the different zones controlled with thermostats. Filled with transmission fluid. They are work horses and never die if maintained properly. If you look at the plate on the top there should be a wiring diagram. Very interesting little things. And the first one I worked on I dumped the fluid all over the place also. Lol.
Thanks for reminding me of my youth and the demise of various clockworks, radios and non-replaceable machinery. Although it also brings to mind my Father's unpleasant reactions to some of my activities that fed my curious youthful brain.
Thanks for mentioning JIS as a cross head screw standard. This is key if you work on Japanese motorcycles. JIS screw heads will often, but not always, have a small dot or dimple on the head to let you know they are JIS. I don't want to shill on this channel but Vessel (Made in Japan) makes a nice JIS screwdriver. Chapman manufacturing (Made in USA) makes bits for use with 1/4" hex bit ratchets that are JIS. These took me forever to find for my motorcycle kit so that's why I wanted to share where to get them.
I still get that felling of wonder and excitement of taking things apart.
First memory of that was at 4 or 5 years old, taking apart my fathers nice gold pocket watch to see how it worked..
Then a memory of the firm Consequences following..
It’s a split phase motor, white is probably neutral being as its Canakatastanien, connect the capacitor between yellow and red, and alternate the 24 volts from yellow to red for direction, same as any permanent split squirrel cage motor.
Single phase motors are generally Not difficult to reverse but unlike 3 phase motors they have to be at rest to change their direction.
Great vijayo Ave, love you work.
My Mom always wanted to know why I took everything apart. she would say: "after taking apart the eighth alarm clock, don't they all look the same?" So I sent her your video starting at 14:35. Cheers, Mark
Mark Beeunas 😂, your mother is now worthy of saint hood , on account of her new language skills.
Hey we have those on our furnaces! Except ours are Honeywell and are alot bigger but same concept. It's awesome to see you tear down this industrial equipment as it has helps me learn alot about this older stuff
HAH! You hit two of the nerves I have left! Back in the dayo, we had T.I. chit (Texas Instruments) Old, but gold tech back then that was a "sequencer", old version of ladder magic!! Worked the whole beast through the whole cycle & just started over!
ALSO, the Germans realized about rubber oxidation way back in the war days. They would submerge tires in water (tanks, lakes, streams) to keep them fresh as a virgin! The use of high natural rubber content made tires shrivel like your Johnson when you piss out in 20 below!!!
Speaking of smells. I was a patrolman back in the day and had an old guy what went to his great reward in the back of an Astro van at the end of June during a nasty heat wave. 10 days later the neighbors complained about the whiff comin off o the van. My Sargent bulled up to the slidy door and gave it a yank while I back peddled like a mo fo. Sargent dumbarse then stuck his head in the van for a looksee while said old guy dripped full leak onto the curb. The look on Sargent Dipsticks face when he turned around was priceless and a thing to behold. He turned the color of your bench mat and the rubber neckers for 100 yards chain puked. It was epic. I grabbed a dust mask and smeared it with Noxema cold cream then went and retrieved the aforementioned Sgt who had gone to his knees like a bolted sow. Radio calls were made for the Jeebless meat wagon from a block away. The perimeter practically made itself.
These are used not only to control combustion air but also fuel. Big burners usually have one of these connected with a linkage to a ball valve to modulate natural gas flow into the burner. Often the linkage connects a ball valve and a combustion air vanes from the same motor so they modulate in lock with one another and adjusting the difference in position on the linkage will adjust air:fuel ratio. These things are everywhere.
Used to take my families alarm clocks apart and not not put them back to working order. My mum would freak out, my dad would laugh. That's enough about my dysfunctional family history. But Damn, I love the stuff you do.
Just like I spent my child hood, taking apart industrial kit apart and learning about it. Remember my dad taking a very similar servo from an asphalt plant burner apart and showing me it secrets
god what would we do with all of our angst to tear apart everything in the shop without AvE. GOD BLESS CANERICA GOOD SIR
Thanks again for explaining the most useless of machinery. I only wish that you had been around when I used to come across an abundance of military surplus impliments that we had no idea what it was or how it worked. I truly enjoy these gems of knowledge and your step by step analysis of each part.
We use those on all the burners on the dryers in industrial laundry. They operate the gas valves and baffles for the blowers. We control them with the temperature. Our boilers have a really different type. I'd like to send you one of the old ones to tinker on.
Listening to you explain the switching reminds me of the main generator on the class 47 brush diesel locos that had decompounding winding inside the main generator to stop us heavy handy drivers overloading the generator and traction motors.
An exciter current would be sent through an extra winding on the generator in the opposite direction of the main current and the two magnetic fields would try to balance each other out. No matter how hard you tried you simply couldn't overload them. Pretty clever stuff.
Are still using that mod motor on our burners today. It's attached to the main gas butterfly valve, and the feedback goes into a PID circuit.
Rather than being a 3ph motor with 3 sets of coils, this appears to have 4 sets coils in it.
With coils 1 & 3 being perpendicular and 2 & 4 perpendicular, that makes it easier to change the rotation of the motor without having to reverse the polarity of the capacitor.
Brings back memories of my days as a tech in a non-woven textile factory. They used these in gas fired heat-setters with a PID controller.
Wow. I have an old Japanese bike, and never knew about the JIS format. Of course, I've only had the bike for a couple of months. Thanks AvE.
I recently got into working with industrial HVAC and building management controls.
It is insane how only in the past 10-15 years are controls moving away from pneumatic/physical control to DDC now. I love this stuff.
I always had a soft spot for selsyns myself. Very neat stuff. Nothing complicated.
There were thousands of those things used for controlling the burners on small to medium size industrial steam boilers. The output was connected to a damper that controlled the volume of air to the combustion chamber and a linkage to a fuel valve which was characterised to allow the correct amount of fuel for clean combustion. A proportional signal from a pressure controller drove the valve and damper to open more when the boiler pressure was below the set point and to close when above set point. These were pretty much bullet proof,and never caused any problem. Now the burner electrics that drove them open and closed for purging and starting were another kettle of fish completely......
Just love your lingo, makes me giggle:) The world would benefit if more people were like you :)
I loved this video! I have always loved taking things apart. When I was 5 years old I took my dad's beloved pocket watch apart. It "springen-sproken" everywhere. I had parts everywhere. I was too young to know how to put it back together. He never knew what happened to his pocket watch. It just disappeared. I never told him what happened. It was his favorite watch! He died not knowing what I had done. Some things you never tell about.
The first thing I thought about when you got close to the motor - that it was an induction motor.
The question I have is, after it "oiled" your table. How in the heck did they keep the motor sealed from the oil? They must have really good O-rings.
Thanks again for the discombobulating effort!
Love your videos even tho im a Female I learn so much from you and i work in my own Shop thank you for being a insperation.
In case nobody else commented, or i just missed it, the motor looks to be an AC servo motor. They are a two phase motor, often with a shared common (thus,three wires), and have one fixed voltage and frequency winding, and a second winding with a fixed frequency, but variable voltage. They are usually 120 VAC windings. They were very common in applications like this. They allowed fairly precise position control without using a brushed motor, or complex three phase AC servos, before brushless DC motors became common. They are very robust and low maintenance, and only real downside is they require a higher voltage power stage for full range control.
It’s a permanent split capacitor motor. Three wires are common, winding 1, and winding 2. Both windings are in parallel but one has the capacitor in series. Reversing is easy just have the capacitor switch which winding it’s in series with and rotation changes. This is supper easy with a single pole double throw switch. Imagine a triangle with Common at the bottom node, windings on the sides, and a capacitor on the top. So C-W1-Cap-W2-C. All you have to do is apply power at the node W1-Cap or Cap-W2, the one you choose determines rotation.
To confirm this on the motor just measure the resistances of between the three wires. 2 resistance measurements will be the same (w1-c, w2-c) and one will be the sum of both resistances (w1-w2).
No understanding of the components, application or electricity, but I thoroughly enjoy your movies. Well done sir!
Also used on furnaces that fire kettles. Variable output for variable temperature control in whatever you are heating in the kettle. I worked for awhile in a plant that produced polymers for the paint industry. We had several multi-stage furnaces with these on the kettles.
The Posi-Drive's blade thickness is constant from shaft to the point. Phillips has a taper. And in addition to JIS, there's also Reed & Prince, which uses a deeper cross slot in the fastener head (pointier driver). Q: How do you make a Phillips screwdriver? A: Vodka and milk of amnesia! Sa-loot!
"Nobody panic." Ah words that speak to the very lowest cockles of my heart, driving it in fear to the gutter almost as fast as the words "We need to talk."
I used to work in a aluminum die casting factory. We had a few gas fired pots for smaller hand ladled casting machines that used a similar mechanism to throttle the output of the combustion blowers on the burners. They used a simple thermocouple that sat in the molten aluminum in the pots to provide temperature feedback to the controller. Was always curious how those worked, but never had the chance to open one up. Pretty reliable units overall. Worked there for about six years and never had to change one out. Did change a lot of thermocouples, they lived a hard life. The PLCs on some of those older die cast machines were another story tho...... Antique TI and A-B units.
They use those or very similar type all over in HVAC. We use them in industrial NH3 refrigeration as back pressure regulators. There would be a cam attached to the motor that actuated a valve. This allows our control systems to maintain a pressure set point in the evaporator.
These get used for boiler burners a lot. Drive shaft will open and shut a fuel valve and an air damper with linkage and an adjustable cam so you get a good fuel to air ratio as she ramps up. Your RBW contacts there tie into the burner controller which will drive it through a light off sequence then depending on where your auto/ manual switch is, it either gets handed off to a pot for manual adjusting of the firing rate or to a modulator so it'll chooch all alone based on pressure or temperature.
Nice setting up the spring to pop the washer off. Just a little bit of slappy stick to entertain the mouth breathers.
There's another "cross" drive fastener some may encounter. "Reed and Prince".
It resembles a Phillips, but has a 45 degree angle with a sharp point, instead of the 30 degree blunt point found on the Phillips.
I used to run into them on the Goodyear deicing boots on older aircraft.
J Ballew yes and Better have a set of BSW wrenches too, if you’re working on older British aircraft
J Ballew how about tri wing fasteners. Planes are full of em. Most people who have to remove them are hoping the inventor of them is somewhere in as much pain as the mechanic who’s Stuck trying to remove a wing full of em!
Got a a couple of them on the boilers at work. Thanks AVE your are helping me to trouble shoot them. I'm in the maintenance Department.
I didn't know why you got excited when you opened the motor, I'm not that educated on these things. But as a man who tinkers that's such a relate-able great feeling that's one of my favorite parts of this channel.
I posted this before you got to the part about taking your toys apart, but that's EXACTLY what I meant haha
Shaded pole motors are hard to reverse electrically. Single phase A/C motors (excluding shaded pole) are actually just 2 phase motors, the direction of rotation can be changed by reversing the the connection of any of the 2 windings. In this case, using a 3 phase motor over a 2 phase motors saves one relay contact.
It's a multi-pole single phase (split phase) motor. The cap phase shifts every other pole. the multiple poles makes it turn more slowly. (ceiling fans use a similar motor)
Used with an external temp control usually var resistance. R closes to B moves toward cooling R to W moves towards heating very small incremental moves. Mostly used to control the mixture of return air and outside fresh air mixture. Resistive stat causes a maintaining temp Switching stat cause full open or full close
I work with these in our smaller industrial boiler applications. Oldie but goodie
Honeywell's rebranded these for use on large 100% shut outdoor air vane dampers & inlet air vane positioners on large centrifugal HVAC fans. Very durable positioner.
Those types of motors are used on the big old cleaver Brooks boilers. One is controlling air and oil in and the other controls a valve for water. The water in is controlled by a float with a magnet on it which moves a wiper arm on a rheostat. Completely separated no seals.
I see those on dampers for smoke control on fire alarm systems. They often have a dual limit switch to tie to building automation or fire alarm proving circuits to confirm that the damper is closed or open. I was going to rip a dead one apart to see the innards but now I don't have to. Thanks for saving my nose.
Using canes can also control d/p of the building to ensure either positive or negative pressure relative to the outside atmosphere
Another term for these are "mod motors" you can also use them to manage the air pressure in a furnace or kiln especially where zero oxygen environments are required. For example some furnaces are hydrogen purged due to chemical interaction with the materials being sintered. I was working on a mod motor last night on a nickel furnace
This is part of what is referred to as series 90 controls. It uses 135 ohm control signals and is what initially replaced pneumatic proportional controls in the HVAC industry. Typical usage for the actuator in this video would be for a damper in an air handler, a hot/cold water control valve, or to operate a capacity control on a boiler via a jackshaft burner control.
I took one of these apart over Christmas break. Neat piece of industrial kit. Only differences were the huge wound spring box, a shaded pole motor with both forward and reverse windings, and bull gear made of micarta or similar composite instead of nylon.
The cast aluminum sproinged open violently and almost took a finger with it. It had a real heavy preload: maybe to keep the return torque constant?
It’s more than just about temperature, you can control environmental emissions by keeping your combustion air in proportion with your fuel. A slight reduction reaction lowers the production of NOx and clever design recirculating the combustion gases can reduce it further.
You can look in the burner products from John Zink, Callidus(Honeywell), or Zeeco which are all based in my hometown and a former employer offering lower NOx burners for refits. I was an instrumentation engineer so we just spent money and didn’t have to tune the reaction.
I can finally contribute to a video! I have one of these Modutrol servos on my natural gas powder curing oven. It does not control the flue however. A thermocouple in the oven sends feedback to a proportional-integral-derivative controller witch then modulates a 4-20ma signal to the Modutrol to control a butterfly gas valve coordinating with the temperature set value. The flue is controlled by exhaust fan speed, witch in turn is controlled by a VFD. Now I know not to crack it open and let the rancid fish oil out!
None of this stuff makes sense to me, but I enjoy the videos, and more so enjoy FEELING like I've learned something. I DID, however, learn what Cunningham's law is tonight -- so for that I thank you.
These where used on any kind of damper. Flue or otherwise, both as a "servo" or versions with 2 pos or spring return. Real strong but no fun to mount or handle the linkage systems, or when they started to leak if seldom. Nowdays you use direct axle mounted motors on dampers with integrated linkage systems. Weaker and cheaper but so much easier to mount and handle.
Recall a Christmas in 78 where I took apart a toy electric car, enjoyed it, and put it back togeather. From that point on, the car ran backwards when turned on. Biggest spanking for a long time.
Also used to open hydronic valves, not real common in the desert of Arizona, I take care of a few places with these. Quite pricey too.
Ahhh The ol' Honeywell Modutrol!!! We have these on our heating boilers to control both the air and the water level, they can be hooked to anything... It would be sweet if you had a corresponding part with the bridge circuit so they could be paired up to operate. The typical setup is 90 degrees, or 100 degrees, I can't remember for sure. I've got a manual somewhere on my puter for one of those, if you want a copy...
Sitchs usually used to control an outside sourse. Such as turning off a compressor when the damper is bringing in 100% outside air
This is one of your most pure videos, great stuff mate!
We should find some of the old pneumatic automation control devices for you to BOLTR. Haven't toyed much with those but I was awestruck once way back when I was part of dismantling a old PI(perhaps D) pneumatic regulator, so much nice clock and pipe work. Love these old devices, like my old mercury contact thermostat that used to be in my old greenery, which got replaced by your favourite ESP8266 wifi device.
It's fun watching you open something you know nothing about! I only know that because that honeywell mod motor is one of the most common things I replace in my job.
P.s. I laughed when the oil came out, sorry...
thats either a pre rotation vane guide or variable geometry diffuser for york chiller centrifugal compressor. that color to me is very unmistakable.
11:07 its has reverse forward function. yellow is common red is forward and white is back.
The buna-n reminded me of a real interesting book called Skunk Works: A Personal Memoir of My Years at Lockheed by Ben Rich. In there he mentions rubber used in very high altitude spy planes falling apart quickly. They found that ozone was destroying it. Even though they were up near space and the air pressure was very low, the highly reactive form of oxygen was causing problems.
The book provides some great examples of surprising engineering challenges involved with working in extreme conditions and having to invent solutions along the way. It also has information relating to working on top secret programs with details that I'm surprised isn't still restricted.
How you reverse the direction of a single phase motor is you change the phase shift of the start winding compared to the run winding. Find the 2 wires going to the start winding and the 2 wires going to the run winding, swap either pair. You can still do forward/reverse on 2 contactors but you need to run 4 wires from the motor to the controller.
The other terminals are a metal resistor that goes into the flue. One wire on side of the resistor and two wires on the other side that makes the lengths of the wire over 5 feet. The boilers at the place that I worked on them had them.
Classic AvE.
One of my favorites.
in a school were i work 30 years ago that was build in 1962 modutrol were use to control valves , damper, burner ...
I’ve had to change out several of those that were on outside air relief dampers 40’ above a theater stage. Butthole pucker factor pretty high.
1. I’m amazed u ain’t saw this before considering you seem familiar with almost everything. 2. Good job figuring it out.
Its probably a 2 phase motor (aka Cap Start Cap Run motor). The 2 windings are both connected to neutral one end, and the cap is connected between the other end of the 2 windings, connect Live to one end of the cap for forward and or the other end for reverse
I love taking things apart. Jut to understand how it works. My favorite tool is the hammer. Just to keep the stress level down.
We called them venomat motors for blending cold in coming air with warm out going air in pig barn ventilation. Take out the limit and they turn about.75 rpm. Great for turning pigs on a spit over a fire
A good explanation of static phase conversion. Thanks