Let's Talk About Soft Jaws | Machine Shop Talk Ep. 36
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- Опубликовано: 4 ноя 2021
- Ian Sandusky answers common questions about soft jaws and shows some of the most practical applications of this highly versatile workholding tool.
From explaining their characteristics and advantages to sharing tips and tricks for cutting their profile size, Ian offers great insight and information on all things soft jaws that'll leave you feeling like an expert on this handy fixturing.
Timestamps:
00:20 Intro
00:44 Explaining what soft jaws are and their advantages
01:45 Showing examples of soft jaws
02:11 Soft jaw compared to hard jaw
03:30 Question 1 - Do you cut the soft jaw profiles on size or a little over?
06:32 Question 2 - Do you cut relief on the bottom of your profile?
07:53 Question 3 - Can you do more than two items at a time in soft jaws, or what's the best practice for that?
09:02 Question 4 - Do you use serrated end mills that have a ridge profile to cut your profiles to get more grip out of it?
11:31 Practical soft jaws applications
12:14 Conclusion
How are you all using soft jaws in your shops? And do you have any additional tips and tricks to share? Let us know in the comments!
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Love it when other 'machinists' recut soft jaws and they end up using jaws that float above the bottom of the vise. Then they wonder why their parts are tapered left to right.
I can tell you I’ve learned that lesson the hard way! Sometimes ya gotta remember that socket head cap screws don’t locate 😂
Hot tip, when holding round parts in soft jaws putting a small relief at the back and front of the jaws allows for some variation in part diameter and still have at least 4 points of contact it doesn't need to be much 5-30 thow and about 1/3 of the surface area cut into the jaw centered on the jaw.
Very good point! I’ve had to do this when running hot roll or cast parts in the past as well!
Or cut a square, so each half of the jaw has a vee in it. That is way better than 2 points of contact and rocking.
Torque wrench is your friend as well torque when you cut the jaws and the same when you run the parts. I also slightly snug up the moving jaws adjustment bolt until there’s just a little drag on it
This is fantastic advice!
The shop where I worked (I work in a warehouse now...:-P) used a program called cnc setup.
You just typed in the jaw id on the computer and it told you what job they were for, what pressure to use, size etc or type the job number and it told you what jaws to use. You got pictures of the setup, everything.
We had loads of soft jaws.
Maybe I'll try to get back into machining in the new year.
I’ve never heard of that, that’s sick! I’ll have to check it out! And yeah man, the trade needs you - you can pretty much name your price at a lot of places these days!
@@iansandusky417
The problem I have with getting back into the business is that I'm living in Vienna now and
my german leaves a lot to be desired. It's getting better though, I think:-P
(Any employers in Vienna who need a cnc turner?)
I've got to be honest though, working in a warehouse is a lot less stressful than cnc machining!
If I have an odd shaped part that needs to be gripped tightly, I will use a .125"x.125" piece of steel barstock as a spacer that sticks out from each side of the jaws when clamped. I will set it just below the deepest depth of the pocket I'm about to cut. I tighten the vice to the same torque that will be holding the part, and then cut my jaws. This way, if there happens to be any deflection in the jaws when tightened, the final grip will always be square. If you don't tighten before cutting the jaws, you could cause the part to be held only at the very bottom of the pocket, and has been known to allow the part to "walk" up the taper, and out of the jaws at standard sphincter dilation rate.
This is fantastic advice!
I usually hold at a little higher torque with the spacer just below the bottom of where the part will be.
I tend to get a taper that is tighter at the top, not by a lot but i think it helps
I machined aluminum stock to exactly to .125 to use for a sacrificial spacer. I also engraved the fixed jaw with “fixed” so the parts are always the same. I also only do 2 parts at once, only to allow for more tolerance difference in the stock materials.
Ah, yes! Marking the fixed vs float is a big one, I definitely missed that! Excellent point! 🍻🍻
I engrave the fixed jaws with the client name/part number, and hash marks at program 0 and label G54-OP1/G56-OP3, etc. If you can read it, it's installed correctly. LOL
Boss said she wanted to make Christmas tree shaped christmas ornaments first half is easy, second half requires pocketing some soft jaws to hold a christmas tree shape. I have everything pretty much ready to go as far as G -code using Mastercam all I need now is the DNC software which is on the way. Friendly FYI I am a CNC instructor at a Non profit, we have one mini-mill and one SL-10, with no USB so with your help I've been able to connect via RS-232 and serial port. Thank you alot! Keep up the great content.
Ah that’s gonna be sweet when those are done! I’m glad my pain with drip feeding has helped someone out 😅 thanks for watching!
@@iansandusky417 I know that pain well, this has not been easy. No one does it and only a few people have info on it.
i try and stay away from soft jaws in a vice since i got a 4 jaw self centering chuck for the mill found it much more accurate , also for a vice a torque spanner was good if you had different operators running the machine .
The torque wrench can be a lifesaver! Keeps the pressure consistent so nobody crushes the step jaws!
Check out Adaptor soft jaws. Haven't used them myself yet but looks very interesting
There are a few brands I've seen that make soft jaws that look pretty cool - I think Orange had a line that dovetailed into a hard jaw for easy switchout! I've never used any off the shelf solution - I've only made my own in the past.
@@LetsMachine yeah, I currently use the Carvesmart jaw system in the Orange Vise. Favorite so far
@@tylergilbertson4086 Carvesmart! Right, those are the ones I was thinking of!
Hey man I'm early on this vid hoping you see this. With wages being low currently where im at and being single and 23 have been thinking going out on my own. How much money did you start with and how did you come about finding your first machine?
Hey man thanks for reaching out! I actually took over my old man’s shop, but I definitely recommend trying to get your own thing going for sure!! I’d recommend getting a used mill (or a new small one) and putting it in your garage - that way you can build up your own clientele on weekends / after hours while you work your day job! If you check out the Shop Talk series playlist here on Practical Machinist, I did a video on opening a shop that might help! Feel free to give me a shout anytime and best of luck man!
Let's talk about cutting into hard jaws.. 😄🔥
Haha definitely been there too! And honestly milling hard jaws for parts you’re going to do a lot is a good next step from soft jaws - I’ve got a few custom pairs over the years for repeat steel jobs that chew up 6061 jaws!
@@iansandusky417 I was just thinking about a pallet changer mill from a shop I worked at.. side A and side B had two vices per pallet.. each one different step in the part.. something like 27 tools. Well.. someone on first shift ran B side on A side of program. And vice versa. None of the Jaws or tools survived.. had ear buds in not paying attention.. it was total carnage..
@@NORTHBROOK1978 oh sweet mother of god, I can feel my blood pressure rising via osmosis
@@iansandusky417 I was on lunch break early in my career when one of my machines started making a new noise. I ignored it for a few seconds before my lead told me to get my ass out there and see what is wrong.
@@iansandusky417 I was just an operator then.. the setup guy was not happy. Now I'm the programer set up guy.. different company.. and I feel the pain.. let's rapid through your fixture. I almost cried Thursday..
1 vote for 2 parts per vice, as the jaws wear you may toss a part, just not worth it, not worth blowing up the cutter.. bla bla
Quite true! It's definitely the safer solution. I've gotten away with 4 parts if it's op2 and I'm only holding on four identically sized parts - but especially with rough stock, the juice ain't worth the squeeze to try for more.