Building A Modular Model Railway! - Episode Six: The Folding Fiddle Yard!
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- Опубликовано: 20 июл 2024
- Building A Modular Model Railway - Episode Six: The Folding Fiddle Yard!
After the excitement of the previous episode where I laid the track on the two new station modules, this video takes a step back and ties up a few loose ends. Some of you guys have pointed out things that I've glossed over in previous videos that you would like to see in a bit more detail and so in this episode I give you a proper look at the fiddle yard and also explain how I did the wiring for the modular model railway. Specifically a lot of you wanted to know how I'm transferring the power between the modules so this episode features an entire section on that too.
Finally to finish it all off there's a little bit of troubleshooting to do on the station module as one of my engines keeps stalling on the points. Is it an issue with the loco or is there a problem with how the track is laid and will I be able to get trains running smoothly again? You'll have to watch to the end of the video to find out!
Timestamps:
00:00 - Intro
00:51 - The Fiddle Yard
03:08 - Hinged Modules
05:58 - Modular Railway Wiring
10:46 - Stalling Locos
12:33 - Fixing Uneven Track
Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much to everyone showing an interest in my Modular Model Railway project! If this is the first time you've come across it (or if you just want to recap what I've done so far) here's a playlist with all the videos in the series: ruclips.net/video/8_3D7f_oQu0/видео.html
I don’t know if you showed it already, but you should do a video on how you do your DCC setup. Like from the wiring, to the track, to being able to control your trains on your phone. Maybe combine it with a different topic like you did with this one?
Hi there, I definitely plan on doing a video on DCC in near the future once I'm a bit more confident with it. At the moment I'm using the Roco Z21 (you can actually see it in the background in some shots) and so far it's been very easy to use. Thanks for watching 😃
The folding section looks really good! I might be forced to use a similar setup on my own railway once I finally get to really build one. The troubles of building a layout in your bedroom!
Thanks! It's definitely saved me a lot of space and is much easier to store this way. Yes I know the feeling - ambitious plans and not enough space was eventually what led me to building a modular layout in the first place. Thanks for watching 😃
We had the same problem with exactly the same loco, we went for a different approach to fix it by fitting a stay alive to the loco - completely solved the issue with the loco and it's a great runner now.
Ah interesting it's not just an issue with mine then! Yeah I think I may do the same seeing as it's so easy to fit a stay alive to them. Thanks for watching 😃
I really love how simple and efficient you keep everything, nothing overcomplicated. it makes this series really easy to follow
Thanks Josh, glad you're finding it easy to follow! I definitely agree about keeping things simple otherwise I would have never got round to starting the layout and would have no idea how to explain it to anyone else 😂 Thanks for watching 👍
A well presented channel,and enjoyable to watch👏
Really glad to hear you're enjoying the videos! Thanks for watching 😃
Thanks for sharing all the steps in your modular build. I'm going to build a small setup to go underneath our Christmas tree and having watched your modular series I've decided that it is the way to go.
My pleasure Kevin! That sounds like an awesome project and it’s the perfect time to start seeing as you’ve got time to get it ready for next Christmas. Thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy could i be cheeky and ask where you got your custom endplates from ?
The hinges are ones that you would use for a gate.
Love all of the your videos so far, and hope that there are many more to come in the future
Ah that would explain why they were in the shed then! Thanks, glad you're enjoying the videos. Got lots more in the works so hopefully more excitement coming soon. Thanks for watching 😃
This has been an informative and entertaining series - it has really helped me with my layout planning and building. One note is you don't need to be so apologetic for things like the set track points, or the being a preserved railway. Yes there are some people out there who complain that others aren't doing the hobby right (ie like they do it) - but so what - its your railway, so what you think is right for you - run what is right for you and use whatever kit is right for you. Justify yourself not one jot other than 'because I wanted to' - and invite them to go and not be a laugh at someone else's party.
Thanks again, I have watched the series several times to keep absorbing the information, but also as a slightly unexpected form of stress relief. It's made a real difference to my mental health - so you are helping on levels other than modelling advice!
Really glad to hear you've been enjoying it Alasdair! Yes, I was definitely much more apologetic earlier on and I didn't consider myself a "proper modeller" (whatever that is!) for a long time. I'm certainly much more of the opinion now that everyone should just be allowed to have fun in their own way, especially as certain topics within the hobby become increasingly more polarising - there's probably a whole video in that statement alone 😅
I'm so glad to hear that the videos have benefited your mental health too. As someone who has struggled with depression for a long time it's really good to know that the videos have helped someone, even if it's just in a small way. All being well there will be new episodes in the modular series very soon but until then, thanks for watching 😃
Ah ha, no one will see them..... until I show them in a video.
Nice update mate. I'm actually quite envious of the progress you're making.
I've completely lost my mojo recently and none of my projects have been touched for a few months. Funnily enough its wiring that needs doing on both layout builds ive currently got on hold.
Quite nice to see someone doing the basics and enjoying a build.
Oh, nearly forgot. Your hinges are fine. They look robust and they do the job you're asking of them.
Yes, the fatal flaw in my plan 😂 Thanks James! I know, wiring isn't the most interesting part of building a model railway especially when you're not feeling it. I has allowed me to get trains running properly though so I guess that was the goal I was working towards.
I have to admit that having lots of people following the build with interest on here does help spur me on too but I know what you mean - getting started is one thing, keeping going is another entirely.
Thanks for watching 😃
I've just come across this video and what a great surprise. A well presented tutorial that explains the subject matter in easy understandable bites of information and very informative. Thank you and yes I hit the subscribe button.
Thanks Chris, really glad to hear you enjoyed the video! Thanks for watching and subscribing 😃
Your yard construction looks great, giving me some ideas for my yard build , great job
Thanks James, it’s served me pretty well so far. Good luck with your own layout build and thanks for watching 😃
Veeery interesting the part about the points. Gotta keep it in mind, thanks!
Thanks Matthew, just shows it's worth taking your time when laying track as you never know what problems might pop up. Naturally I wanted to get this sorted before I buried the track in ballast too! Thanks for watching 😃
Hi Railway Guy. Enjoying your videos. With the connectors you showed it is convention to have the output end as the 'female' connector and the input end as the 'male' connector. This is so that the exposed pins are never live, preventing accidental shorting. Andrew
Thanks Andrew, glad you enjoyed it. When the layout is setup none of the pins are exposed as they're all connected up to the modules either side. The bufferstop module at the end of the layout just has wires to the track so this is where the power (and trains) terminate. Hope that clears things up and thanks for watching 😃
Peco points especially the medium and large radius can be a problem as they often bow slightly in the frog area. I overcame this by using a track pin to push the middle down. Also check the loco pickups to make sure they are in contact at all times with the wheels. Side play can occasionally take the contacts away from the wheels.
Hey Raymond, yes it did seem to be the points bowing that was the problem and as you can see in the video the performance was much better after I'd glued them down. Checking the pickups was actually the first thing I did though as initially I thought it was a problem with the J72 since it was really only affecting that loco. Thanks for watching 😃
Some great tips there - thanks again.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks so much for watching 😃
Another excellent instalment! 👍 Interesting to see that piece about the issues with the J72 on the points. I have a had a couple of issues myself with similar results and I am starting to wonder if it is a similar issue. Sadly I have had to store the railway back in the shed for a couple of weeks but I have a fortnight off next month and am looking forward to some tinkering! 🤓
Those connector blocks are great aren’t they? I use them in much the same way and also when making my power box. Really versatile and they make a solid reliable connection.
Cheers mate, look forward to the next one 😎🍻
Thanks Tim, yeah the J72 is still causing me a few problems so I think I'm going to have to look at it a bit more. If they're all as rigid as mine is then I wouldn't be surprised as the J72 does seem to be incredibly sensitive to uneven track.
The connector blocks are great though! They've made wiring up the layout so easy and, like you said, they're nice and reliable. Thanks for watching and hope you get a chance to work on your layout soon 😃
Interesting video. Might be worth checking that all the J72s pick ups are making contact as when you rocked the loco, the front wheels should have picked up the power but the loco didn't seem to try to move.
Regarding points, I have drilled a hole in a sleeper at the highest point and put a small screw right through to the baseboard. This gives some fine tuning to the levels. Have subscribed and liked!
Thanks! As I mentioned in the video the pickups were one of the first things I checked but I agree it's odd it doesn't try to move. It does seem to need all it's wheels firmly on the rails to get enough power.
Great tip about screwing through the point though! Might have to try that myself if they keep giving me problems. Thanks for watching and subscribing 😃
Excellent video very well explained
Thanks Colin, really glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching 😃
Great videos - my 7 year old wants to make a start in model railways, and I think we may be following the modular concept, as we dont have a dedicated space either.
Just one tiny suggestion... Instead of using the rather fancy chocolate block connectors, I'm thinking of simply crimping an eye terminal on the end of each wire. These can then be attached to the bolts used to join each section together, and thus will not need any gaps in the reinforcing ribs, or anything dangling down etc, and it's one less thing to buy!
That's great to hear Gordon! Hope you both have fun creating your own modular layout - it is definitely great for creating an interesting setup when you don't have much space.
Funnily enough I did try using something similar early on but I found the connections weren't secure enough. I spent all my time crimping the connectors back on until after a month or so I switched to the pin connectors which improved reliability. Hopefully that won't be the case for you guys though. Thanks for watching 😃
Great video. On that troublesome loco could you raise the centre axle fractionally by using some fine emery paper on the chassis where the bearings are located. Just a thought.
Thanks for the suggestion John, though I think it might be a little bit beyond me. Since the loco is now mostly working anyway I don't really want to mess around with it anymore but I agree, if the chassis wasn't so rigid this wouldn't have been so much of an issue. Thanks for watching 😃
You have sold me on your folding modular fiddle yard. I noticed that you have no patent on it, so I'm stealing your idea for myself 😉.
Great presentation as always Josef.
Cheers from down under.
Haha, no problem. I stole the idea myself from a layout plan called Minories where the whole scenic section of the layout folds up on itself, so I doubt I could have patented it anyway 😂 Thanks for watching 👍
Very nice yard and you could have more than one of them in the long term plan.
Thanks, yeah I'm considering making a small fiddle yard in the future for more simple setups. Thanks for watching 😃
Hello. Just watched your video with envy. The lift up section works flawlessly. I am trying to do it myself and I'm close to abandoning it in favour of crawling. Do you have a video on how you created it?
Hi Tim, I don't have a video on it but it's fairly simple - just four blocks at each corner of the two boards with hinges screwed to the inner ones to join the two modules together. Track was laid/fixed across the break then cut with a dremel afterwards. I hasten to add though that it only folds up for storage as when it's in use it's bolted to the other modules on either end. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
Thanks for that I got some brill info. I'm thinking of doing a layout in TT120. On the far right of the baseboard in the corner is our gas boiler, so I will need to allow access to the guy who checks it over. I like the idea of the hinge. The section of the board that needs to be lifted up is 165 cm long by 70 cm wide.
This section will be one end of a loop of track, probably 4 or 5 tracks. From your video I take it that the rails just simly butt up to each other when the leaf is lowered flat?
As some of these trains will be traveling at speed do you see any complications of the loco's and stock/carriages derailing?
Many thanks for your time,
Steve.
Hi Steve, glad you found it interesting! Yes the rails just butt up to each other, I've found the best way is to lay the track over the joint then cut the rails afterwards. I've done a video about this process which goes into more detail about getting a smooth transition over the join to prevent derailing: ruclips.net/video/IFPBPS6nOMU/видео.html Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy thank you so much. Nice one!
Great video 👍🏻
Glad you enjoyed it Henry, thanks for watching 😃
This and episode three are great for an explanation of how your layout works! I was personally wondering if it is possible to make a modular layout using fishplates, with out destroying them, as I currently have a 4x8 foot layout, as I don’t have a ton of space myself, however I’ve found that it’s too hard to fit everything I want on that board, plus it is kinda daunting to have a whole sheet of plywood to look at when laying track and doing scenery, so I was thinking that a modular layout might be the best option for me as well. I’m not very good at wiring though, and with my current layout I just have the controller directly plugged into my track to avoid any complicated wiring, which is why I was asking if fishplates are an option for a modular layout. Great video, and it was good to get an insight of how your layout works, and as someone who has been watching your videos for a while now, it’s crazy how far along you have come with your layout in the past 4-5 months from what it was for basically a year or two, which makes me really anxious to get going with mine!
In theory it would work but in reality I think it would get frustrating very quickly and you'd probably end up bending or damaging the fishplates.
The wiring doesn't have to be complicated though. I'd recommend checking out this video where I provided some diagrams on getting the power across a baseboard joint: ruclips.net/video/IFPBPS6nOMU/видео.htmlsi=Rai8b5baSEedCPn6&t=509
Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy That does, thank you! I’ll probably do something more similar to that if I go down the modular route. Thanks for the tips!
PVA glue was the right choice for the job. I've done the same thing.
Definitely! Superglue may have dried much quicker but if it hadn’t worked there was no way I was getting those points off the board 😂 Thanks for watching 👍
Thank you very much for this video
My pleasure! Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for watching 😃
Thanks for these videos which I’ve found really useful. May I ask where you get the push fit electrical connectors from?
Hi David, I got mine from CPC but I've also seen them available on Amazon or even eBay. Thanks for watching 😃
Brilliant.
Thanks Greg 😃
Just watched this video and although you say you don't have scenery here and this is just intended for storage purposes, I'm thinking there's no reason I couldn't use a similar hinged, raised section to replace the duck-under situation I have currently. I could hide the hinge blocks under a couple of scenic buildings (which would get removed before lifting the section) and I wouldn't be completely folding over like you but just raising it and walking through, then it goes back in place.
Do you see any problem? I have four tracks at this entry point. Two are Peco 2-rail and two are Dublo 3-rail.
Great channel by the way.
Hi Jack, you could absolutely use this same technique to create a hinged section on a scenic part of the layout. In fact this is fairly common (more common than the way I'm using it at least) as people often do this infront of doorways when their layout's are in a shed or spare room.
You're right on the money too with hiding the hinges under buildings - I believe there's a way of having the hinges on the side of the baseboard too but that's a little more complicated.
The only other thing you may want to look at is having some sort of electrical cutout when you lift the hinged section so trains don't accidentally drive off the end onto the floor - better to be safe than sorry. Best of luck and thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy Thanks for the speedy answer and confirmation. I'm going to proceed on that basis.
Great video - where did you get the push fit" connections for the chocolate connectors ? I've not seen those before and they look handy
I usually get mine from CPC but I have got them from eBay in the past too. They're always difficult to search for though as they don't appear to actually have an official name 😅 Thanks for watching 👍
This series so is helpful. And I love the shed in the shed module. May I ask what kit it is?
Glad to hear it, there's a new episode coming out really soon actually. Yeah the shed kit is great, it's the Gaugemaster Fordhampton Loco Depot... I really must get round to building it properly! Thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy thank you ever so much. It has actually been your videos that have re-sparked my plans to build my own layout. And that she'd itself partly responsible for the inspiration. Thank you.
Good one . Next question is where do you source these cable connectors and the holders for the wire under the board . Looked like it might be a “Scotch” 3M product . Well explained though .
Thanks Russell! The connectors are from CPC and come in blocks of 10 that you can easily cut up. The cable clips were found on Amazon and I think just by searching for "sticky back cable clips" or something similar. Thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy cheers appreciate it and the time you take answering my questions .
Hi, thanks for the inspiration. Just in the process of moving from N to 00 again and very tight for space (hence N in the first place). Just curious about the blocks you use to split the feed to the dropper wires, what are they called please?
Hi there Mike, they're called Snap Lock Splice Connectors. These are the ones I use: amzn.to/3weWYyf (Full disclosure, that's an affiliate link) Best of luck with your move to 00 gauge and thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy Thanks so much, appreciated
Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it Dermot, thanks for watching 😃
Hi, loving the series so far!
Just a point of clarity then, I run or will run DC, but I would like in the future to move into DCC, but don’t want to redo everything, so can I run wires as if I’m doing DCC but use it for DC. If that makes sense??
Thanks Richard! If you wire up for DCC then you'll most likely want all your track to be powered all the time - but on DC this isn't ideal as if you try to run a loco on the mainline, it'll also give power to any locos you have sitting in sidings/loops/etc.
I got round this by having my mainline powered from the main power bus with a second feed coming off that to route power to all the sidings. When running DCC everything is live and when I want to run DC I disconnect the secondary feed so I can divert power using the points instead. Hope that makes some kind of sense to you and thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy so either do the same or rewire when I upgrade/downgrade depending on your point of view!
@@richarddrewe5021 Those are definitely options but it depends on the individual layout and how you want to operate it. If the layout is a standard train set circuit and you're not fussed about being able to control what's in the sidings when you have locos on the mainline, you could get away with just swapping out the DC controller for a DCC one. It can be as simple or as complicated as you like but it's all down to personal preference really. ☺️
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy happy to discuss in more detail if you don’t mind!
Are the points that you are using insulfrog? If not you could improve the reliability a fair bit by powering the frog on the points. Good spot with the loco rocking, I wouldn't have seen that in a million years.
Hi there, yes they're insulfrog points. I could have used electrofrogs but I didn't really want to go to all the extra trouble of wiring them up to be honest especially as I still use DC locos on this layout. It's essentially one loco that's struggling after all while the really small locos don't seem to have any issues at all. Thanks for watching 😃
I know that the entire point of the fiddle yard was that it’s the “unseen” part of the layout where trains are organized, but it would be cool to see some basic scenery like ballast and some grass. Maybe even some yard buildings?
Actually maybe not yard buildings because they might interfere with the folding of the modules.
Yeah, I know some people do make their fiddle yards scenic and it definitely can work. For me personally I like to imagine the trains go on to somewhere else when they disappear into the tunnel and the fiddle yard represents the rest of the railway and other stations. But you never know, if I run out of scenery to finish on the rest of the layout I may well add some to the fiddle yard too. Thanks for watching 😃
Hi new to electrics the connecting blocks with the pins, where can I purchase them please, enjoying your videos.
Hi Colin, I got mine from CPC but I've seen them available on Amazon and eBay as well. Thanks for watching 😃
Which train control were you using via your mobile in this video. 😊
Hiya, I use the Z21 DCC System to control my layouts. Thanks for watching 😃
How did you do the wiring at the double slip? Just because on peco box there is different instruction for dc and dcc.
Hiya, I used the Code 100 double slip (just in case it makes any difference) but I didn't do any special wiring. The point is always live which is fine for my DCC layout and I literally just connected the tracks at each end. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy yeah I have the same. The instruction says if I want to use it on dcc layout (what I go for) then I have to cut the thin wires under the frog and need extra feed at the middle.
Have you done that or the power can simply goes from all 4 ways?
I think your loco might still be a part of your stalling problem. Real locos, especially 0 6 0s were balance sprung. This is a little impractical in H0, however by making the outside axles the primary pickups, and filing a small amount off the middle then the loco will settle on the outside ones, and the middle one will still assist in traction and pickup.
Oh absolutely, all my other 0-6-0s that do have a sprung centre axle are fine over these points. I just wanted to try and get the track as level as possible first before I started making any drastic changes to the loco. Thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy I also strove for perfection in my track laying on the Norwest Bend Railway until I saw and rode on the real thing. Laid on the natural, cinders as ballast, 40lb rail. It would never due for Brunel, but that is how pioneer lines were done in the 1913 -20 era so who am I to argue.
Lot of Thanks, but the 3 way point is not connected. There can not be an loco there seeable. Please explain how you solved this 'problem'. Greetings from the Netherlands!
Hi Peter, I’m afraid you’ve confused me a bit as there as the layout doesn’t have any 3 way points 🤔 Thanks for watching though 👍
Hi can you explain how the power is maintained through the cut sections of track?
I showed this at 06:00 - the bus wires and connectors pass the power from module to module with the feeders then taking that power to the track. Thanks for watching 👍
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy perfect thank you. In my case I’m looking at making a folding layout so that should be fairly straightforward
Can I ask where you got the connectors for the wires from?
Hi Dominic, they're pluggable terminal strips from CPC - although I imagine they will be available from other electrical/hardware stores too. Thanks for watching 😃
useful video
Glad you think so, thanks for watching 😃
Nice
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching 😃
What APP do you use on your phone to run your trains ?
Hey there, it's the Z21 app which I believe is available on iPhone and Android. It's part of the Z21 DCC system though so the app alone won't allow you to control trains. Thanks for watching 😃
Thanks for the idea of folding the fiddle yard through 180°. I am at the final stages of planning my N Quay Harbour layout and was going to fold to vertical. Now I am going to emulate your idea. However, an experienced modeller pointed out that folding the fiddle yard - which is where trains are stored - means I would have to evacuate the fiddle yard before folding it. So I have moved the hinge to be towards the end, leaving 80% still on the level - long enough for most trains.
One suggestion: you should have the female chocolate block connector on the power (command centre) side. Just in case you forget to switch power off: as you showed it, the male pins would be live. (Another video had this from an electrician in the comments)
Hey John, that’s awesome. You’re right about the fiddle yard needing to be emptied, in my case the only time it gets folded up is when I’m storing the layout away, so the stock is removed anyway but it sounds like you’ve worked around that.
I suppose in N Gauge, if your scenery isn’t too high, you could potentially have a scenic section fold up over the fiddle yard as another option.
With the wiring, you’re right - it was a temporary solution just for filming the video to illustrate a point. That said it’s sometimes unavoidable depending on how the layout is setup and where the power is coming in. Thanks for watching 😃
These are dumb questions that will most likely make others laugh, but: oh well. Is the term "Fiddle Yard" a part of 'model railroading hobby' only, or is the term used in real-life (full-sized railroads)? I have never heard the term before I found this channel and began watching this series documenting how you are building the modular Railway. Second question: what is the size (or perhaps it is properly called 'gauge') of this modular railway you are building? I'm in the USA and I think (but not sure at all) that it looks like 'N-gauge'...is that correct? I think the nomenclature for size/gauge varies depending on the part of the world one is in. Apologies if it has already been stated elsewhere in the series...I've apparently overlooked it.
Regarding this video series...I found it yesterday when I started looking for information about model railroading -- I recently retired and this is something I've wanted to do since I was a little boy. I have found the videos so far to be very informative and your designs have given me a lot of ideas.
Sadly, after looking at the prices for locomotives, rolling stock and all the various 'stuff' needed to create a model railway I realize it is just a 'pipe-dream' for me, as I view the prices to be ridiculously, exorbitantly, high and out-of-reach for someone like me. I'll have to satisfy my wish to do something like this by watching movies like this, and seeing what others have done at shows and demonstrations. Thank you for the time and effort you've put into making these videos. 👍
Hi there, as far as I know the term "Fiddle Yard" is only used in model railways (it may even just be a UK expression too). It's basically the unseen/backstage part of a layout where trains can be "fiddled" with by hand to be added/removed from the track with out the audience seeing.
I'm really glad you're enjoying the videos. As far as high prices go - yes as the hobby has become more niche over the years and customers demand ever higher quality models, the prices have increased especially in the last year.
I would say though that it is still possible to model on a smaller budget. The Oxford Rail locos are worth a look as are the P Class and Barclay's from Hattons which can be pre-ordered currently for £85. A large collection of locos may not be achievable but you only need one to start with.
Alternatively there's always bargains on Ebay if you're willing to search around a bit and both Hattons and Rails Of Sheffield have pre-owned sections too... in fact I think a lot of model shops do these days.
There's also the new TT:120 range from Hornby which is a smaller gauge that lacks the detail of the main 00 gauge range but as a result is priced a lot more reasonably. And if all else fails you can always get involved with a local model railway club. You may not have any trains of your own to run but fellow members may let you have a go with theirs, especially when it comes to exhibitions where layouts need multiple people to operate them throughout an entire weekend.
There's lots of options for getting involved in this hobby without having to spend a load of money on locos so if this is something you'd really like to do I wouldn't give up just yet. Hope that helps and thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy Thank you very much for the informative reply and advice. The more I look into this hobby the more I realize that there will need to be a great deal of 'educating myself' that will need to happen before I take the plunge down this 'rabbit hole'. Such a huge difference, for example, between what is available here in the USA and in UK, Europe, etc. Thank you again, and I'll continue watching your videos as I plan/dream of my railway 'empire', 🚂🚂
I have just been catching up with your videos, excellent channel, thanks for your interest in my videos too.
Thanks David, really glad you've been enjoying the videos. Yes, I saw your layouts over on RMWeb and was really impressed so when I found some of your videos on here I subscribed immediately. Looking forward to seeing more progress on your new layout. Thanks for watching 😃
You say you supply the power from your controller over male and female connector blocks. You appear to be using the male component on the supply side. Does this not risk shorting your supply if the connector were to touch metal...? Generally Power is supplied from female connectors for this reason.
Hi there, because it's a modular layout the power can come from either the male or the female side of the layout depending on how its setup. I have a wire with the different connector for each scenario.
Generally though I don't tend to have the power switched on to the base station unless it's already plugged in. Even if I did create a short circuit, the base station cuts the power as soon as it detects a short... which I've tested many times when I've set the points incorrectly on the layout. Thanks for watching 😃
@@ThatModelRailwayGuy
AAAh Ok.
I've played with 20V Drill Batteries and they can be a little bit fussy about such issues, which is an interesting possibility for a Modular Model Railway. Could you present without mains supply?
The possibility of display in un-powered locations could be considered?
🇧🇷🚂👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thats really cool.
But the lack of bracing on those boards scares the heck out of me. thats gunna flex like mad and caouse SO many issues.
Don't worry the boards have been braced since this was filmed. Although surprisingly there wasn't much movement in them at all before that so it was really just a precaution. Thanks for watching 😃
One thing I tend to do is braid the bus and feeder wires as it keeps them together and really helps tidy up under the board.
Yeah that's definitely something I plan on doing too once I've got a bit more of the wiring installed. Thanks for watching 😃
You probably explain it but what's a fiddle yard
A fiddle yard is essentially a non-scenic area that acts as a storage yard for all your different trains. Since we don't usually have space to model an entire railway system it represents the rest of the world that we can't see. If you think of it like a theatre, the fiddle yard would be backstage. Hope that makes sense and thanks for watching 😃
At this point I'm confused. A track plan of the finished product would be really helpful.
Hi Dave, if you go back to the first episode there's a track plan during that video which shows how everything slots together: ruclips.net/video/8_3D7f_oQu0/видео.html
The sheds have been developed a bit since then but everything else is pretty much the same. Thanks for watching 😃
Thanks
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