Fascinating, I'm loving the level of detail. Also your practical non-perfectionist approach makes so much sense for people like me doing this on a budget and on cars that are not collectors items! Thank you.
This N43 content is a godsend, I also replaced my bearings after a spun conrod bearing, did not visit the machine shop, did not replace the overheated conrod or crank, still runs like a champ
Also the N43B16 lacks the encumbering balancing shafts because the bore is smaller and therefore the pistons are lighter so it does not need one, it just has the same oil pump alone, looking to swap it on my 143hp version to delete it and gain some free spin
@@MrBojangles901 When I took the rod bearing caps out, the crank journal on no. 4 was a bit worn and it was barely catching on your finger nail, also the bearing was shot, it was copper all the way and broken on its outer edges, also the crank on no4 and no3 is overheated, black to say the least and the conrod too, it overheated when it spun that bearing on no 4. But we put the thing back together, and now runs fine no knock and I redlined it when I didn't know it had rod knock and after I replaced the bearings by myself. Strong engine that is the N43. I got it with that defect in mind at 163k km and now it turned 180k on the clock.
@@laurentiu.panait2536 Nice makes me optimistic about fixing mine. I think the damage could be about the same. Just working on a method to remove the welded on rod bearings right now. Tried smacking it with a chisel but no luck so far!
I have the same problem on my n43. I have already started to rebuild the engine and 1 of the conrods has been overheated, should I also do the same and not replace the conrods?
Great work, great simplified detailed information, I assume such video must have taken quite some time and effort to provide in a such way, thank you so much
I only watched the first five minutes of the video. I think that it is very detailed. I love your explanations of the damage that you have found on the failed engine.
Awesome video! Just bought a 118i with the N43B20A engine and this video is perfect... Engine stalled while previous owner was passing a Mercedes, haha. In fact I realized that I already watched this video before just out of interest but deffo watching again now and paying close attention!
Just finished bottom end rebuild and the car is running great! Only problem is that I get low oil pressure warning at idle when the engine is fully hot (coolant 108 C). The previous owner had the same problem and replaced the hydraulic oil pressure relief valve. I checked it and it's clean and actuates fine. Here are things that could have gone wrong during the rebuild for me, * Opened the oil pump by prying it apart with my hands and it totally exploded. The veins and the spinning shaft fell down on the concrete floor of my garage. Only damage I saw was a small nick on the spinning shaft and I polished it out. It later spun freely. Obviously the veins could not be put back in the same order. I wonder if this could create a problem? I spun the oil pump manually with a impact wrench and it sucked good on my hand. But the balancing shift did not spin as freely as in your video. I figured that some dirt got one them while assembling but maybe this part is bad. * I polished the crankshaft and it came out really nice but has some gouges on it. The clearances on the most polished journal was tight (around 0.03... something mm). From reading online I have come to believe that the gouges should not present an issue. * I was pretty meticulous but also eager to finish the job. I'm wondering if it's possible that I didn't torque down the bolts for the oil pump to the crank case. I feel like if I didn't tighten them down all the way I would have huge problems so it seems unlikely... Right now I'm just trying to investigate if it could be anything simple before redoing the job.
@@BimmerZen Thx for the answer. Was under the impression it was alusil, for some reason. Glad its not! I'll be needing an engine rebuild soon and I'm pretty sure liners are much easier to work with.
Is ok to jet wash the block using degreaser, I all so damaged the block very slightly, do you think I can get away with it? Excellent video 😊😊your my Haynes Manual
It should be ok, but just make sure you block out the oil channels and/or make sure later that they are cleanend. What kind of damage is there? Cylinder bore damage?
@@BimmerZen Hi thanks for getting back, slight damage on the deck, the locating plugs slightly made a indent, you can just about feel it, what do you think?
Valid point. It would be best to plastigauge it. However the replacement crankshaft and conrods came from she same donor engine and when I took everything out, the conrods bearings were in very good condition. I did gamble a little bit there because there is a scenario where the new replacement bearings could be defective or just wrong dimensions and plastigauge would reveal that... Looking back now, I would definitively do that:)
Hello! Thanks! for a very good Video. I have a Bmw 318i Petrol With Automatic gearbox. When I back the car out of the garage, the automatic transmission wants to drive the car very much, backwards. I feel like it's way too high Idling then. I have to press the brake pedal when reversing so they don't reverse too fast. Do you know anything about what could be wrong with this. They are Year Model 2006 on the Car. Thanks! From Tommy Bertilsson from Sweden
It is normal that a cold engine needs about 2 minutes to reduce to normal idle revs. So yes it idles higher than normal. Some solutions: 1. Start car and wait two minutes. 2. Park car backwards into the garage. (In general it should be forbidden to drive backwards out of a parking spot.)
I must add, if the bearing has spun you must change the con rod as we'll. It becomes distorted, this can't be seen with the eye only a measurement tool will show it is out of round. The heat generated on a spun bearing is enormous, the rod will not be the original shape and will leak oil or bind to the crank journal.
Hey, will the ring compressing tool be available in the store? Or is it somewhere to download? I used an generic ebay one and it scratches the surface of the block :/
can anyone point out exactly where do the balance shafts get their oil supply? I have an N43 with oil pressure issues.. i just pulled the sump to discover someone has removed the balance shafts. I havent checked properly yet but i need to make sure the oil supply to them has been blanked!
I agree to a point. I've never seen a N42/N46 engine with piston ring issues, no matter the miles, so I assume the N43 sould be simmilar (very simmilar design). Direct injection, however, can cause problems with cylinder wash. 10.000 km later and I had no issues so far. Engine pulls good and I never had to add oil. I realy hope it stays this way:D
Fascinating, I'm loving the level of detail. Also your practical non-perfectionist approach makes so much sense for people like me doing this on a budget and on cars that are not collectors items! Thank you.
This N43 content is a godsend, I also replaced my bearings after a spun conrod bearing, did not visit the machine shop, did not replace the overheated conrod or crank, still runs like a champ
Also the N43B16 lacks the encumbering balancing shafts because the bore is smaller and therefore the pistons are lighter so it does not need one, it just has the same oil pump alone, looking to swap it on my 143hp version to delete it and gain some free spin
What did the crankshaft and conrods look like. Were they as bad as the one in the video?
@@MrBojangles901 When I took the rod bearing caps out, the crank journal on no. 4 was a bit worn and it was barely catching on your finger nail, also the bearing was shot, it was copper all the way and broken on its outer edges, also the crank on no4 and no3 is overheated, black to say the least and the conrod too, it overheated when it spun that bearing on no 4. But we put the thing back together, and now runs fine no knock and I redlined it when I didn't know it had rod knock and after I replaced the bearings by myself. Strong engine that is the N43. I got it with that defect in mind at 163k km and now it turned 180k on the clock.
@@laurentiu.panait2536
Nice makes me optimistic about fixing mine. I think the damage could be about the same.
Just working on a method to remove the welded on rod bearings right now. Tried smacking it with a chisel but no luck so far!
I have the same problem on my n43. I have already started to rebuild the engine and 1 of the conrods has been overheated, should I also do the same and not replace the conrods?
Great work, great simplified detailed information, I assume such video must have taken quite some time and effort to provide in a such way, thank you so much
thanks!
thank you so much for N43 content. im owner of this engine 143HP version and i learn a lot from you, cant wait for new videos!
I only watched the first five minutes of the video. I think that it is very detailed. I love your explanations of the damage that you have found on the failed engine.
Awesome video!
Just bought a 118i with the N43B20A engine and this video is perfect... Engine stalled while previous owner was passing a Mercedes, haha.
In fact I realized that I already watched this video before just out of interest but deffo watching again now and paying close attention!
Just finished bottom end rebuild and the car is running great!
Only problem is that I get low oil pressure warning at idle when the engine is fully hot (coolant 108 C). The previous owner had the same problem and replaced the hydraulic oil pressure relief valve. I checked it and it's clean and actuates fine.
Here are things that could have gone wrong during the rebuild for me,
* Opened the oil pump by prying it apart with my hands and it totally exploded. The veins and the spinning shaft fell down on the concrete floor of my garage. Only damage I saw was a small nick on the spinning shaft and I polished it out. It later spun freely. Obviously the veins could not be put back in the same order. I wonder if this could create a problem? I spun the oil pump manually with a impact wrench and it sucked good on my hand. But the balancing shift did not spin as freely as in your video. I figured that some dirt got one them while assembling but maybe this part is bad.
* I polished the crankshaft and it came out really nice but has some gouges on it. The clearances on the most polished journal was tight (around 0.03... something mm). From reading online I have come to believe that the gouges should not present an issue.
* I was pretty meticulous but also eager to finish the job. I'm wondering if it's possible that I didn't torque down the bolts for the oil pump to the crank case. I feel like if I didn't tighten them down all the way I would have huge problems so it seems unlikely...
Right now I'm just trying to investigate if it could be anything simple before redoing the job.
👍 information is well explained and valuable 😊
watched full video, now i'm both scared of my N43B20, and glad I could try to fix it if I get the stuff to do so !
Top tes vidéos moi aussi j’ai le même moteur beaucoup de problèmes j’aimerai savoir quel coussinets de bielle que tu mets merci beaucoup
If you were to hone the cylinders for new piston rings, you'd need a special compound to do it, right? This engines are alusil, right?
From what i know the N43 has ductile steel liners. They can be seen when closely examining the engine block.
@@BimmerZen Thx for the answer. Was under the impression it was alusil, for some reason. Glad its not! I'll be needing an engine rebuild soon and I'm pretty sure liners are much easier to work with.
great vid how do u decode the connecting rod bearings
There is no decoding. There is just one tolerance for the standard size.
Very informative. Thank you!
amazing content love it bro
Is ok to jet wash the block using degreaser, I all so damaged the block very slightly, do you think I can get away with it? Excellent video 😊😊your my Haynes Manual
It should be ok, but just make sure you block out the oil channels and/or make sure later that they are cleanend. What kind of damage is there? Cylinder bore damage?
@@BimmerZen Hi thanks for getting back, slight damage on the deck, the locating plugs slightly made a indent, you can just about feel it, what do you think?
should the big ends on con rods have side to side play on the crank, got the bearings from BMW Violet for the top and Red for the bottom
Yes it's normal
Great work!!!
Great work! No need to plastigauge the conrod bearings?
Yes need check the conrod to
Valid point. It would be best to plastigauge it. However the replacement crankshaft and conrods came from she same donor engine and when I took everything out, the conrods bearings were in very good condition.
I did gamble a little bit there because there is a scenario where the new replacement bearings could be defective or just wrong dimensions and plastigauge would reveal that... Looking back now, I would definitively do that:)
You would also need to check the locks on the piston rings and the clearance
Know the specs on the conrod clearances boss?
@@MrBojangles901you can find the specs in the bmw tis
Great work and exceptional details. Only one thing you should have at least changed the oil scraper rings. But great work 👍
Hello! Thanks! for a very good Video. I have a Bmw 318i Petrol With Automatic gearbox. When I back the car out of the garage, the automatic transmission wants to drive the car very much, backwards. I feel like it's way too high Idling then. I have to press the brake pedal when reversing so they don't reverse too fast. Do you know anything about what could be wrong with this. They are Year Model 2006 on the Car. Thanks! From Tommy Bertilsson from Sweden
It is normal that a cold engine needs about 2 minutes to reduce to normal idle revs.
So yes it idles higher than normal.
Some solutions: 1. Start car and wait two minutes.
2. Park car backwards into the garage. (In general it should be forbidden to drive backwards out of a parking spot.)
How do u know all this
I must add, if the bearing has spun you must change the con rod as we'll. It becomes distorted, this can't be seen with the eye only a measurement tool will show it is out of round. The heat generated on a spun bearing is enormous, the rod will not be the original shape and will leak oil or bind to the crank journal.
Hey, will the ring compressing tool be available in the store? Or is it somewhere to download? I used an generic ebay one and it scratches the surface of the block :/
It looks like I've accidentaly removed the link to the STL in the description. I will add it back:)
It's back:)
@@BimmerZen great thanks a lot
So, I can just change some part for my N43B20 143hp engine, and get for free +30hp? 🤔
Yes, "some" parts:D Intake cam and complete exhaust system from 170hp version, variable intake manifold and reprogramming.
@@BimmerZen disa wont give u gains at top end, intake cam and remap should be enougth
@BimmerZen do u know how to clean those integrated pcv's?
Not realy...maybe I'll take a look:)
@@BimmerZen it doesnt make sence to buy a new valve cover just cause the pcv is blocked
@@hugocunha30 since all they want is money... makes too much sense 🤣
I'm stuck, hows the thickness of each bearing worked out, I've been to BMW dealer and they don't know, help
I've used the standard Mahle bearings and so far I have no issues
@@BimmerZen thanks for quick reply, looks like I'll have to use the one's you have, realy appriciate it, looking forward for the next vid 👍👍👍👍
can anyone point out exactly where do the balance shafts get their oil supply? I have an N43 with oil pressure issues.. i just pulled the sump to discover someone has removed the balance shafts. I havent checked properly yet but i need to make sure the oil supply to them has been blanked!
Is your engine n43b16? 1.6 L? They donxt have balancing shafts, fyi.
To torque reverse thread u can actually open ur torque wrench and put gear other way around to torque in reverse my dad show me this trick
@@Gogolxd thanks!
In my opinion, it is very risky to use old rings, but time will tell if it was the right decision.
I agree to a point. I've never seen a N42/N46 engine with piston ring issues, no matter the miles, so I assume the N43 sould be simmilar (very simmilar design). Direct injection, however, can cause problems with cylinder wash. 10.000 km later and I had no issues so far. Engine pulls good and I never had to add oil. I realy hope it stays this way:D
The oilpump balance lobes needs to face downward !
You are correct, I do that in my N43 assembly and timing video.
hi, do you have an image of how the oil pump lobes should be mounted? Thank you