Nice thing about the nacelles is that in the age of COB LEDs we can do a decent enough approximation of the neon tubes that were in there, especially if you funnel them through clear shrink wrap as a rough-sanded diffusor.
Thank you so much for showing this whole process with lighting and painting and of course the scalping of many windows! I have been watching your videos for a few years now and have learned so much from them!!! Great Job and thanks for what you do for us Trek modelers! Bernie
At Wonderfest 2023, they showed off the prototype for the USS Cerritos from 'Lower Decks', presumably due later this year. (Saw the video on RUclips) I will be interested to see what you make of it.
I am working on making my kit into a "Syraprise" Just looking to map out the areas where some of the hull panels are missing. As well as using some surface maps I got off of Doug Drexler's web site of the saucer.
You would tape over the windows on the inside, and then remove the tape when done light blocking. That's how I did it when I lit my Voyager model. Worked fine, but it's an additional step instead of just light blocking from the outside.
Hi, I'm about to start on mine own kit and I found your channel. This has been very helpful. One question: @15:11 when the final cost is done, which grey is the final exterior that you used ?
Well, I'm not sure I'd recommend the paints I used. I'm waiting to make a judgement on them until I see how they look under the aztec decals. Also it turns out the paints are flat paints and i like using gloss paints more than flat. But my base coat is Tamiya XF-23 Light Blue and Tamiya XF-19 Sky Grey I hope they look good in the end.
Well, I'm not sure I'd recommend the paints I used. I'm waiting to make a judgement on them until I see how they look under the aztec decals. Also it turns out the paints are flat paints and i like using gloss paints more than flat. But my base coat is Tamiya XF-23 Light Blue and Tamiya XF-19 Sky Grey I hope they look good in the end.
You forgot install any of the Red & Green Navigation Lights and the White Strobe Lights and to Me the Model doesn't look Right without Those Navigation & Strobe Lights.
For me personally if you don't mind having it battery powered i would have the nacelles, main body, and saucer sections self contained power and light units that are activated by magnetic switches. That way your don't have to worry about running wires and can have the ship displayed separated and still be able to light up both sections. You can have the top and bottom held with tiny earth magnets if you need to replace a battery.
If you look at the kit, most of the windows are in groups, but there is a lot of surface area where there are no windows. So you can mask off the groups of windows and then light block the rest inside. When you remove the masks, of course, those bits around the windows still need light blocked from the outside but because everything else has been blocked from the inside it is much easier and takes a lot less paint. What the inside light blocking mainly does is light block the seams and panel lines; those are the thinnest part of the plastic (apart from the windows) so they are the hardest to light block.
Nice thing about the nacelles is that in the age of COB LEDs we can do a decent enough approximation of the neon tubes that were in there, especially if you funnel them through clear shrink wrap as a rough-sanded diffusor.
Thank you so much for showing this whole process with lighting and painting and of course the scalping of many windows! I have been watching your videos for a few years now and have learned so much from them!!!
Great Job and thanks for what you do for us Trek modelers!
Bernie
you make professional model making look easy! OMG
Excellent work Mario! Looking forward to ordering my own translucent Enterprise D.
Excellent tutorial!
At Wonderfest 2023, they showed off the prototype for the USS Cerritos from 'Lower Decks', presumably due later this year. (Saw the video on RUclips) I will be interested to see what you make of it.
I am working on making my kit into a "Syraprise" Just looking to map out the areas where some of the hull panels are missing. As well as using some surface maps I got off of Doug Drexler's web site of the saucer.
Wow she's looking good
If you light block from the inside, would you have to scrape the window opening from the inside as well as the outside?
You would tape over the windows on the inside, and then remove the tape when done light blocking. That's how I did it when I lit my Voyager model. Worked fine, but it's an additional step instead of just light blocking from the outside.
Be great to know what wires, what strips and any transistors or PCU boards you used? Thanks.
Hi, I'm about to start on mine own kit and I found your channel. This has been very helpful. One question: @15:11 when the final cost is done, which grey is the final exterior that you used ?
Cool 🖖
How would you deal with all the small windows if you light blocked from inside???
Gorgeous!!! What color did you use for the base color?
Well, I'm not sure I'd recommend the paints I used. I'm waiting to make a judgement on them until I see how they look under the aztec decals. Also it turns out the paints are flat paints and i like using gloss paints more than flat.
But my base coat is Tamiya XF-23 Light Blue and Tamiya XF-19 Sky Grey I hope they look good in the end.
What tool were you using, and where can you get such a thing?
Well, you wouldn't have been able to use the window scraping method if you light blocked it on the inside. There's always a trade off somewhere, lol.
Here's how it looks on my 1701-C build. You mask off the windows from the inside when you do the inside light blocking.
What did did you use for the base coat if I may ask?
Well, I'm not sure I'd recommend the paints I used. I'm waiting to make a judgement on them until I see how they look under the aztec decals. Also it turns out the paints are flat paints and i like using gloss paints more than flat.
But my base coat is Tamiya XF-23 Light Blue and Tamiya XF-19 Sky Grey I hope they look good in the end.
You forgot install any of the Red & Green Navigation Lights and the White Strobe Lights and to Me the Model doesn't look Right without Those Navigation & Strobe Lights.
For me personally if you don't mind having it battery powered i would have the nacelles, main body, and saucer sections self contained power and light units that are activated by magnetic switches. That way your don't have to worry about running wires and can have the ship displayed separated and still be able to light up both sections. You can have the top and bottom held with tiny earth magnets if you need to replace a battery.
So, are the ast forums dead again?
wouldnt lightblocking it from the inside prohibit you from using the windows? or would you scrape them free from the inside aswell?
You'd mask off where you want light to shine through then light block the inside. Takes a bit of extra time, but is worth it I feel
If you look at the kit, most of the windows are in groups, but there is a lot of surface area where there are no windows. So you can mask off the groups of windows and then light block the rest inside. When you remove the masks, of course, those bits around the windows still need light blocked from the outside but because everything else has been blocked from the inside it is much easier and takes a lot less paint. What the inside light blocking mainly does is light block the seams and panel lines; those are the thinnest part of the plastic (apart from the windows) so they are the hardest to light block.
Gaming could you do a video about gaming scale Star Trek ships?
Good lord, the paintflow on the airbrush, I'm actually surprised the paint looks halfway decent.
To be fair all the video of painting is sped up by at least 2x