Thanks for the encouraging words. Doing it alone can be challenging but, doable. I try to show that anyone can do the work if they have no help. The only mistake you make is not trying.
@@FixinBugsNStuff Yes, you’re absolutely right. I made sure I had help installing my curved windshield on the super beetle I did. Otherwise I prefer to be alone in the garage. For except my neighbors that annoy me when I’m in there. 🙄
Although the patina look is not my cup of tea the work you’re doing here is excellent, thorough and impressive and you are preserving the car for future generations. Looking forward to the completion!
Thanks man! I have had show cars, average condition cars and patinas. Patinas are my favorite since I don’t have to worry about dings or scratches when going to the grocery store. I want to be able to enjoy and drive the car but, also making sure it structurally sound and safe. Some patinas I have seen are only held together by rust. 😳 Thanks for checking it out.
Hi, nice work. The reason why the door didn't aline is becouse you have the body resting on the apron at the front and back. Especially the front will be push up and in the upper hinges in giving you that gap. The heater channel is not that strong. When you tide the body with the chassis will become one pice. Miguel Rodriguez, Puerto Rico
@@miguelrodz3307 you are right! People argue with the heater channel welded in the doors should still align. It requires the whole body mounted to the chassis for proper door alignment. Thanks for checking it out.
@@FixinBugsNStuff i have a 66 beetle needing some welding done my package tray and wheel arches put in.my problem dont own a welder and dont know how to bad ur not close to me i could use some help
When the door is closed should the very bottom of the door butt against the outside of the heater channel or should it sit on top of the heater channel and the inside sill of the door butt against the lip where the carpet strip would be?
I think i welded in the heater channels too low at the front. The seal barely catches the channel on the bottom. Thinking i might just add some extra metal to the top of heater channel in the door gap so the seal can actually seal.
Awesome video, I’m doing much the same on a 68 beetle that I picked up recently from the crusher. What front suspension are you using and what pedal assembly- they look trick. Keep up the great work!
Great video, im very impressed with your work! However I do have one question, why didnt you fully weld up what you could while the body sat on the chasis? wouldnt it make sense to fully weld the thing up while its in position?
Hello there I noticed you also purchased new metal piece where the heater box house connects to the fiberglass tube that goes thru the chassis. What is that piece called. I need to buy it too to repair mine. I have a 1971 super beetle.
You have the link for the exhaust tubing? Thanks, great vid. Currently doing a full restoration on a '67 bug and your tips are helping with those head scratcher moments. And I see you have a 2 circuit master cylinder for the brakes. Did you convert it? If so are there any issues with cylinders or brake lines regarding pressure? I'm thinking from a safety pov to upgrade from single to dual.
Glad to help. Yes I upgraded to a larger bore master cylinder because of the disc brakes. No issues, some think you need a pressure valve for the rear but, in my experience you can do with out it. I am not sure what you mean about the exhaust tubing.
great video. can i ask how you got the 2 back bolts in on the floor to heater channel. as my floors came with the jacking points already on the floor. there is no way i can get the bolt in with the bracket. Do i need to cut a bit off?
Hello there good job explaining how to replace heater channel. I figured it out. I was asking about the rear cross members. The driver side in my car is in need of replacement. Have a great day.
Just got a rusted all to peices 72 bug. Thanks for all your valuble info. Its been a lot of years since i worked on a bug. This will really help.
Glad to help.
Very good video! That gap will close up with the rubber in it. I applaud you! You did this alone without help
Thanks for the encouraging words. Doing it alone can be challenging but, doable. I try to show that anyone can do the work if they have no help. The only mistake you make is not trying.
@@FixinBugsNStuff Yes, you’re absolutely right. I made sure I had help installing my curved windshield on the super beetle I did.
Otherwise I prefer to be alone in the garage. For except my neighbors that annoy me when I’m in there. 🙄
Although the patina look is not my cup of tea the work you’re doing here is excellent, thorough and impressive and you are preserving the car for future generations. Looking forward to the completion!
Thanks man! I have had show cars, average condition cars and patinas. Patinas are my favorite since I don’t have to worry about dings or scratches when going to the grocery store. I want to be able to enjoy and drive the car but, also making sure it structurally sound and safe. Some patinas I have seen are only held together by rust. 😳 Thanks for checking it out.
Hi, nice work. The reason why the door didn't aline is becouse you have the body resting on the apron at the front and back. Especially the front will be push up and in the upper hinges in giving you that gap. The heater channel is not that strong. When you tide the body with the chassis will become one pice.
Miguel Rodriguez, Puerto Rico
@@miguelrodz3307 you are right! People argue with the heater channel welded in the doors should still align. It requires the whole body mounted to the chassis for proper door alignment. Thanks for checking it out.
Thanks a lot for sharing this video. So encouraging, I will be doing this soon alone as well. Cheers from Melbourne Australia 🇦🇺. 👍
Glad to help.
Another great video, very interesting to see the door alignment after the removal of the chassis.
There is a lot of misinformation out there so I rather be upfront and truthful. To help anyone out.
@@FixinBugsNStuff 100% agree, great stuff keep it coming.
Great video! You’re making great progress.
Excellent job on the doors 👍
Thanks man.
Hi mate ,you have taught me alot ,thanks for your videos.I have been doing exactly the same.
Love your patience....and it pays off!!
Been doing it for a while and I am still learning new things.
Subscribed... nice to see another rescued beetle... look like you did a nice clean job on getting those welded in 👍
Thanks. Just want to make it right.
nice step by step doing it one man.
Thanks, just trying to help others.
Nice work, I made a jig to support the A to B pillars, a cross brace between. Did one side at a time.
AWSOME. Whatever works bro
excellent work friend, for everything to be perfect you have to do it yourself, congratulations! Saludos!!!!
love all your videos 👍 i like the way you take your time & explain everything keep up the great work & thanks
Glad you like it.
Great work I’ve just ordered heater channels for my 1970 bug
Sweet. Reach out if you need some help.
This is a great video and explanation...
I hoped it helped.
Nice work man
I have the same problem ,not many helpers 10 years running,lots of progress these last 2 years. My fist try '71 convertible SB
Thanks for testing the braces theory
Sure thing. I wanted to squash the rumor with facts.
Love to know how different the bug feels to drive after all this work and expense! Are those stock 155/80 on the front?
Good video but u forgot the rubbers in between the body and rear shock towers and lower rubber in the front beam
Yep that was done on purpose. This was not the permanent install of the chassis and body.
@@FixinBugsNStuff i have a 66 beetle needing some welding done my package tray and wheel arches put in.my problem dont own a welder and dont know how to bad ur not close to me i could use some help
What state do you live in? There are VW guys all over.
You talk about shimming for final door alignment. Where do you shim at. Thanks David!
You can shim in between the door hinge and the body.
Question: Shouldn't we have hit the bare steel areas with weld-thru primer before we set the body down on the pan?
When the door is closed should the very bottom of the door butt against the outside of the heater channel or should it sit on top of the heater channel and the inside sill of the door butt against the lip where the carpet strip would be?
The bottom edge of the door sits on top of the heater channel. The surrounding door gasket sits against the heater channel and door jam.
I think i welded in the heater channels too low at the front. The seal barely catches the channel on the bottom. Thinking i might just add some extra metal to the top of heater channel in the door gap so the seal can actually seal.
Awesome video, I’m doing much the same on a 68 beetle that I picked up recently from the crusher.
What front suspension are you using and what pedal assembly- they look trick. Keep up the great work!
How did you properly adjust door hinges to line up door
Great video, im very impressed with your work!
However I do have one question, why didnt you fully weld up what you could while the body sat on the chasis?
wouldnt it make sense to fully weld the thing up while its in position?
I could have but, getting in tight areas can be difficult when the pan/chassis is in place. It’s much easier to weld all around the perimeter too.
Hello there I noticed you also purchased new metal piece where the heater box house connects to the fiberglass tube that goes thru the chassis. What is that piece called. I need to buy it too to repair mine. I have a 1971 super beetle.
Where is the rubber Cushion between the body?
The body gasket gets put in later when the chassis gets attached.
You have the link for the exhaust tubing? Thanks, great vid. Currently doing a full restoration on a '67 bug and your tips are helping with those head scratcher moments. And I see you have a 2 circuit master cylinder for the brakes. Did you convert it? If so are there any issues with cylinders or brake lines regarding pressure? I'm thinking from a safety pov to upgrade from single to dual.
Glad to help. Yes I upgraded to a larger bore master cylinder because of the disc brakes. No issues, some think you need a pressure valve for the rear but, in my experience you can do with out it. I am not sure what you mean about the exhaust tubing.
Surely everything needs to be hard down as the gasket raises up every surface by the same amount if you get my drift😋
You got it. Luckily the gasket is compliant and allows a little flexing.
great video. can i ask how you got the 2 back bolts in on the floor to heater channel. as my floors came with the jacking points already on the floor. there is no way i can get the bolt in with the bracket. Do i need to cut a bit off?
I would cut a little bit off.
Do you have a link to all the sheet metal parts you used?
My 65 is from Washington and well I have a ton of work ahead.
All the sheet metal I used is from Cip1. They have everything you need.
No weld through primer??
No. Later on we will be using the primer after the welding is done. Everything is still expose.
Do you have the link for the tube
Do you mean the heater channel?
Hello there good job explaining how to replace heater channel. I figured it out. I was asking about the rear cross members. The driver side in my car is in need of replacement. Have a great day.
@@juniorclassicvwbugs924 oh I got if from Cip1.
Thanks