I'm a major skeptic and am super critical of everything before even trying it. Same story here, but now I have both of the plates and I'm absolutely getting the rest of my printers some as well. These plates are wild. It feels like you've slapped superglue on them. Absolutely loving my CryoGrip plates.
I recently purchased the Bambu Cool Plate SuperTack which is pricier than the Biqu. It certainly does the trick for multiple small parts but the Textured PEI Plate remains my go to for general purpose printing. I wonder how the Biqu plate compares to the Bambu plate? Hockey Sidenote: What a thrill it was to see you (Chuck) on the ice this evening while Connor was being honored before the hockey game. I am a life long Jets fan going back to the WHA days with Bobby Hull. Never have I witnessed the consistently spectacular performances like those provided by our sure fire Hall of Famer, #37, Connor H. Printing Sidenote: I began following your channel long before I realized the connection between Chuck and Connor. This a double thrill for me, a Jets, electronics, and 3D Printing nerd. Marc (Winnipeg)
Did you try Initial Bed Temp 65C, the rest 55C? I actually use 60 and 50. You want the first layer to be higher in order to bond better to the bed, and then the other layers below the glass-transistion temperature of the material.
As much as we'd like it to, the bed doesn't heat evenly. The outside will always be cooler than the center. Print a square of your objects around the perimeter of the bed and calibrate the temperature to make that stick first.
I've had great luck printing PETG and PLA on this with minimal heat; I can print PLA with no bed heat and PETG can print at 45°. However, on both my Frostbite and Pro Glacier plates I can't get ABS or ASA to stick to them even though BTT says the Glacier plate should work with ABS and ASA.
Did you try it with a new Bambulab sheet, usually this should not happen. It might be, that the Bambulab one was wear down already and the blue one you bought will do the same after some time
There's not really an issue with the base PEI plate. It's just that some smaller parts don't adhere to a PEI plate as well if the heat of the bed fluctuates at all. This BIQU plate and the new Bambu Supertack get away from PEI and use a different material that adheres better at lower temperatures. Grease also doesn't affect these plates as much, so typical adhesion issues are less frequent. I noticed in the video CHEP was cleaning by wiping the plate down with Dawn. That might have just been for the video, but if he wasn't scrubbing and rinsing under water, the dawn probably just moved around the grease and then let it settle on the plate, which can cause more adhesion issues. For what it's worth, I've only used Dawn a handful of times. I usually use Isopropyl. That said, isopropyl can wear plates down faster and some plates Bambu explicitly says not to use IPA. But I use my whole bed all the time without any issues.
Yep. Blue is just soap and will rinse off cleanly. Anything else that's in the green (or any other brands) may or may not still be on the plate when you're done.
How long does it last? What is it made out of? A lot of the steel sheets just don't last, and for how expensive it is, it not worth even trying. Does it work with nylon prints? What happened to your viewers? Where did they all go.
I noticed in your video you changed "other layers" to 65 rather than initial layer. Think maybe you got that backwards if you were trying to improve adhesion.
This is the lowest effort phone it in video I've seen from this channel. Biqu has two different high adhesion plates and bambu has their own high adhesion cool plate. Seems like it would be worth at least mentioning these other options as well as other methods of increasing bed adhesion other than just increasing temp and cleaning
link us to one of your high effort in depth videos please. Chep has been an invaluable source of information on 3d printing for me. I'm sure others feel this way.
@stephengolaski6451 I've enjoyed and learned from his videos for years. This is the first time I've felt more educated than he seems to be on the topic. It just doesn't feel as well thought out as his other content
I'm a major skeptic and am super critical of everything before even trying it. Same story here, but now I have both of the plates and I'm absolutely getting the rest of my printers some as well. These plates are wild. It feels like you've slapped superglue on them. Absolutely loving my CryoGrip plates.
I recently purchased the Bambu Cool Plate SuperTack which is pricier than the Biqu. It certainly does the trick for multiple small parts but the Textured PEI Plate remains my go to for general purpose printing. I wonder how the Biqu plate compares to the Bambu plate?
Hockey Sidenote:
What a thrill it was to see you (Chuck) on the ice this evening while Connor was being honored before the hockey game. I am a life long Jets fan going back to the WHA days with Bobby Hull. Never have I witnessed the consistently spectacular performances like those provided by our sure fire Hall of Famer, #37, Connor H.
Printing Sidenote:
I began following your channel long before I realized the connection between Chuck and Connor. This a double thrill for me, a Jets, electronics, and 3D Printing nerd.
Marc (Winnipeg)
maybe you could squeeze a few more on by staggering the rows?
Great plates for small stuff!! Big stuff warps pretty much every time for me with these plates, but that's somewhat to be expected
Thanks a bunch for the tip, Chuck! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Did you try Initial Bed Temp 65C, the rest 55C? I actually use 60 and 50. You want the first layer to be higher in order to bond better to the bed, and then the other layers below the glass-transistion temperature of the material.
Agreed.. don't even need to watch. Upgraded all 3 of my beds to crypgrip
3:59 and this is why your print plate is greasy, don't touch it with your hands
Came here to say exactly the same thing, honestly made me have cold shiver watching that. 😭
As much as we'd like it to, the bed doesn't heat evenly. The outside will always be cooler than the center. Print a square of your objects around the perimeter of the bed and calibrate the temperature to make that stick first.
Love the Frostbite for PLA. 25-30C bed temp for where I live and it sticks too good it seems!
Trouble with PEI sheet is they do wear out, no matter how much you clean it they just start failing to stick.
I've had great luck printing PETG and PLA on this with minimal heat; I can print PLA with no bed heat and PETG can print at 45°. However, on both my Frostbite and Pro Glacier plates I can't get ABS or ASA to stick to them even though BTT says the Glacier plate should work with ABS and ASA.
Is there any profile for orca slicer like cura😊
Have you also tried to turn of the aux fan with the textured plate? This being on can result in bed adhesion issues.
Did you try it with a new Bambulab sheet, usually this should not happen. It might be, that the Bambulab one was wear down already and the blue one you bought will do the same after some time
Why did you choose the Glacier over the dedicated for PLA Frostbite or normal cryogrip?
I'm considering buying a P1S but would like to know what the actual issue with the default plate is?
There is none.
There's not really an issue with the base PEI plate. It's just that some smaller parts don't adhere to a PEI plate as well if the heat of the bed fluctuates at all. This BIQU plate and the new Bambu Supertack get away from PEI and use a different material that adheres better at lower temperatures. Grease also doesn't affect these plates as much, so typical adhesion issues are less frequent. I noticed in the video CHEP was cleaning by wiping the plate down with Dawn. That might have just been for the video, but if he wasn't scrubbing and rinsing under water, the dawn probably just moved around the grease and then let it settle on the plate, which can cause more adhesion issues. For what it's worth, I've only used Dawn a handful of times. I usually use Isopropyl. That said, isopropyl can wear plates down faster and some plates Bambu explicitly says not to use IPA. But I use my whole bed all the time without any issues.
or switch to PETG, sticks 50 times better than PLA to PEI sheets
Petg is generally cheaper too
If you think Glacier is good, then you need to get the Frostbite plate and turn off bed heating completely.
Sliceworx buildplates are similar material and work out great too, similar stuff I think.
I dislike being a keyboard worrier, but, Blue Dawn and Green Dawn or different formulas.
Yep. Blue is just soap and will rinse off cleanly. Anything else that's in the green (or any other brands) may or may not still be on the plate when you're done.
Shame they only go up to 257 x 257. When I have a 300 x 300 ☹️
It’s temperature loss. I bet the bed is loosing heat with more parts acting as heat dissipation.
How long does it last? What is it made out of? A lot of the steel sheets just don't last, and for how expensive it is, it not worth even trying. Does it work with nylon prints?
What happened to your viewers? Where did they all go.
I noticed in your video you changed "other layers" to 65 rather than initial layer. Think maybe you got that backwards if you were trying to improve adhesion.
I use 71% ISO Alcohol.
That works ok with PEI but you aren’t supposed to use IPA on the blue sheets
If you're selling functional parts to customers, why not print in ABS or ASA?
This is the lowest effort phone it in video I've seen from this channel. Biqu has two different high adhesion plates and bambu has their own high adhesion cool plate. Seems like it would be worth at least mentioning these other options as well as other methods of increasing bed adhesion other than just increasing temp and cleaning
You must be fun at parties. He's just trying out what he has jackass.
link us to one of your high effort in depth videos please. Chep has been an invaluable source of information on 3d printing for me. I'm sure others feel this way.
@stephengolaski6451 I've enjoyed and learned from his videos for years. This is the first time I've felt more educated than he seems to be on the topic. It just doesn't feel as well thought out as his other content