Lansky Angle Sharpening Kit and Extensions - Review and Demonstration
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- Опубликовано: 26 дек 2017
- cedric-ada-store.creator-spri...
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Place the blade in the clamp exactly in the same place each time you sharpen. This will make the angle the same for each sharpening. Place the rods into the stone and lay the stone on a table and lay the rod on the table, in-line with the stone.
Your stone impact is due to improper mounting of the rod, set the stone flat on table and then have the rod also touching table or lower and BOOM problem solved!!!
Thank you for mentioning this........
Learnt to sharpen using my dad's Lansky kit when I was about 10 or 11. I was eventually given my own and I treasure it dearly. Getting the G-clamp for mounting makes life a lot easier. I mostly freehand sharpen now on bench stones, because it's faster with less fuss. However now and then I'll break out my Lansky kit for specific jobs and always enjoy the screaming sharp edge I get. Great system
I use this extensively on all my knifes.. No need any extra stones and hones to get mirror edge.. I just put a paper tape on the 1000grit stone and use diamond compound and I get the results like on wicked edge (it'll cut free hanging hair) the only difference between this and much more expensive system is amount of time spent sharpening (especially highly wear resistant tool steel -s110v, 20cv M4) But since It's my hobby to get the knife screaming sharp I enjoy it.. After 1000grit I put paper tape and 10micron compound then put another tape with 7 and so on all the way to 0.25 micron.. Then the edge is really like mirror.. Cheap trick to get wicked edge result.. All together cost me 70usd Vs wicked edge 750usd.. Words of wisdom - "People with too much money have too little brain"
holly shit that's brilliant!
I would recommend aligning the rod with the face of the stone by placing it stone down on a flat surface before tightening. This is a good way to avoid inconsistency between rods and stone holders. Also gives you a chance to catch a bent rod
If you have a vice put it in your vice and you don’t have to hold it at all it’s amazing I sharpened about 10 knives without it and now that I put it in my vice it just holds the bottom side and it’s so much more stable
Great review, I've had my eye on one of these kits for a while now
I was able to sharpen 20CV with the basic 5 stone system. Took about an hour. Was not a mirror edge but was scary sharp!
I picked the Lansky "professional" :/ kit & added their blue sapphire stone, and leather lapping strop. Hardest metals I've used it on have been 1095, and BDZ-1. Those took a LONG time to reprofile, but D2 or less take no time at all. GREAT results! And super easy to get a mirror smooth, scalpel sharp edge!
GET THE STAND! It helps A LOT!
Because of you I went and got the Lansky Diamond kit and I am very happy with it. I found this interesting aftermarket belgium yellow rock that`s like a grit 8000-10000 and with that you really get a mirror polish on those edges. I used to be pretty happy with my handsharpening skills but this lansky thing really gets better results.
I have an old Lansky kit and a newer DMT Aligner with extra coarse, coarse, fine and extra fine DMT stones. DMT holder & stones work great with the Lansky clamp. Only Lansky stone I use now is the yellow ceramic. Finish on paddle strop with green compound.
I do like the lansky. I had the basic kit ( red blue and green stones ) when I was a kid, and literally used it till the stones fell out. I recently bought the "delux kit", same kit that you showed, but I wish instead of including the black stone, that they came with a coarse diamond stone. I'm going to have to order the diamond stones, because while I love the results from using the kit, I dread having to reprofile an edge, especially with the knife steels I typically carry. It takes too long without the diamonds
I have owned a basic Lansky kit for about 30 years, I need to get it out of the box and start using it more.
I've used a lansky kit enough to wear it completely out in a year. I had to re tap the screw holes in the clamp, and the stones were dished out so much they needed alot of flattening. Good kit for the money, now I use the edge pro.
I’ve been using this system for a few years. I have the basic 5 stone kit, a diamond kit, sapphire, strop, and Jende lapping paper that I add to the sapphire for polishing. A few cons. It takes forever - not a fast system. The different stones don’t all sit flat using the same rod. You’ll need to find rods that sit flush with each stone. The diamond stones leave microchips on certain metals because of the aggressive texture.
Another alternative is the Gatco sharpener. It has longer larger stones and a guide that has more angles in it. I use the Lansky and the Gatco setup intercgangeably both systems work great.
I've got a Smith's (basically the same as the Lansky). My knife dealer looked at me like I was an idiot when I told him it took me about 16 hours (over 4 days) to reprofile the edge on a new N695 Bohler steel knife. Go figure...I managed to destroy a couple of the stones in the process. I even bought the screw down base plate mount. Methinks I expected way too much from the tool.
It took me a week to reprofile s110v. 1fucking week 5-6hour a day
I have one from Smith's. It only came with 2 stones (a medium-ism diamond and a really fine Arkansas) and it fell apart within a couple months. Funny enough it only took about an hour to sharpen S30V or CPM20CV when it was still working. Mind you neither edge was amazing but it still did it.
@@marxusaurelius5195 You probably weren't consistent with your angle
i had the same issue with my knobs but after reading the instructions again it said to screw the back bolt in as far as i could before tightening the front screw after trying that i found it had no issue with hitting the knobs been working great sins then love using it
This is very timely, I've been eyeing off the guided sharpeners because I've got a couple knives now that I really don't want to practice my freehand skills on and they need a touch up. I was eyeing off the tsprof and wicked edge variants and thinking maybe I go silly and invest in something like that. But actually, after watching your video I think I'll get results I'm happy enough with using a Lansky, and not have to feel weird about spending so much money. If there is any jankyness about it, I will console myself by appreciating how compact and portable it is. It wouldn't be silly to chuck it in when car camping.
Hi. I’ve started watching your vids. And I’ve taken to you. Been looking for a sharpening system for a while now. But just can’t trust some of the reviews. But with you showing how this ones works, I’m just like, ok I’m getting this one. Perfect.
Thanks for demo Bro.
I recently bought a Tops mil spie 3.5T. There’s no good reviews. Do you think you could get your hands on one. Would love to hear what you have to say about it!
Good!
practicle
and parden the pun to the pont well done thankyou
When you said for $70, I immediately bought it on Amazon, cuz it's only 40 freedom bucks right now lol. Killer deal since I just ordered a s35vn pm2, and what I have now won't cut it (😉) for that steel.
Ok review update... make sure to get a good almost paper cutting edge with the medium stone before moving to the fine. With the fine you should be able to get a factory type paper cutting edge. Then move on to the 1000 or 2000 grit ultra fine with honing oil. It seems to help with getting that glide through paper mirror edge. My mistake was moving up in stones too soon. Also make sure your rods are not bent and lay perfectly flat. Most of mine needed slight adjustment.
I have a couple of inexpensive Civivi knives, a CJRB and a few other knives mostly in D2. I'm just looking for a simple way to keep a consistent sharp edge. would you recommend this system or do you think I should save up and spend more on a higher end system? I have no desire to have a full-on bright shiny mirror finish on my knives but I want them sharp and I think this beats a bench stone.
Just bought the diamond set and a fine stone and there strop with the base after seeing ur videos cost $100 for everything which isn’t to bad for a decent kit great video I’ve heard bad things about there curved stones that there cheap and lose a lot of material while sharpening like using chalk just what I’ve heard 👍✌️
The Lansky is a good kit for the majority of knife enthusiasts. The options are great. Not only that, but Lasnksy has a lot of other knife sharpening products that are available at a budget price.
I do have better systems, like you do Pete with your Tormek, but the Lansky is the portable system that I still rely on every once in a while.
what makes the tormek better? project farm tested it vs the lansky and they were equal in sharpness and edge retention
@@Darkcruzer23 it sharpens faster, so you can reprofile knives easier, or fix larger amounts of tools in the same time. It can also sharpen axes, long knives, chisels, plane irons, and other tools that might be problematic with the Lansky
Enjoy your reviews. I've owned and used a Lansky diamond stone set for years. While quite serviceable and adequate (depending on steel) I've moved up to the KME which is far superior. Similar methods of use. More versatility. A serious upgrade but larger investment. If you have a few knives and only use this periodically it's fine. If you have a bunch of knives and sharpen frequently you appreciate the differences.
in project farms test the kme did outperform it but barely and at 3x the price. for 3x the price id expect 3x the performance and it wasnt
"...now, what are the bad parts of this knife..." Gold ol' mate :) 15 minutes in and yes, the Smiths suffers from the same 'bolt knock' issue. I'm leaning to a cheapish Nirey sharpening wheel system. Or I'll go back to whetstones...nooooo... Edit: Actually, I sharpen most of my knives with the Benchmade Field sharpening doodad. I have a piece of leather glued to my desk to strop the blades though.
+Cedric & Ade Gear and Outdoors I just got a Lanksky system but mine didn't come with the two red screws. Instead there is a normal screw at the front. That finishes flush with the clamp. It also came with an extra screw to replace the second red screws that's close to the back of the clamp. The extra screw also finishes flush so you can get the 17° with no obstructions. So maybe you could buy the clamp I have on its own from Lanksky. Hope this helps.
Good review as always
The distance between the
Knife edge and the T has
More to with the angle
Than the slots say .play
With where the rod screw
N a marker don't reprofie
A new knife
What do you use between clamp and knive I use tape but on some knives is slippery and knife slips while sharpening any suggestions
If u had to choose what would u perfer landky or worksharp
I think the 2 biggest drawbacks are:
1: that if you don't get your clamping point exactely the same you are reprofiling everytime you use it.
2: on a full flat grind it's quite hard to get the blade "centered" so the angles are the same on both sides.
(and one additional: geometrically if you have a long enough blade the angle at the tip changes because of the "upswing of the blade" and with a shallow enough angle it is visible)
you probably dont give a damn but does any of you know of a trick to get back into an instagram account??
I stupidly lost the login password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me.
@Kingsley Ayden Instablaster ;)
@Jeremy Milan I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and im in the hacking process now.
Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Jeremy Milan it did the trick and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thanks so much you saved my ass !
@Kingsley Ayden Glad I could help :)
in your opinion which one of these is a better genral use knife the lt wright outback vs bark river bravo1 lt 3v pls reply
hi to you all i did get a deluxe .... kit here is my ....my 2 problem i have one i actually found an answer
sharpening a flat grind like a boker club the clamp aint strong enough and dont make a large contact enough to hold the knife stable which i solve with a epoxy paste filling in the gap
the main question is how to set the knife in since there is many curve i found that angle change as you use the stone so it is sharp at one place and not at the other how you manage to sharp a curvy blade which most blade are ????
Used this for many years, did the job, but some blade designs are really problematic to get in the clamp. I now use the Lansky Master ceramic rod system which gives consistent results regardless of blade configuration. The stone system is only used if I have a blade that needs a major edge profiling.
Will I be able to use this for knife making to get the edge on from stock?
what type of screw is the one you used to replace the stock one? What's the size/type?
I have this system too, but it was called the deluxe system (the basic has only the middle 3 stones) mine also didnt come with these anti-scratch pads and the front screw doesnt have this red thing on top
I really like it though and i'll also get the diamond stones :)
Same with me. Mine also has an indentation at the front of the grip area that holds thinner blades reasonably well.
I want to buy one but i have a budeget and don’t know if buy this one or the diamond one that is more expensive. I now that the diamond one is better but for 30$ is that better?
Would a Lionsteel Roundhead have too thin a blade for the 20 degree?
Only thing I don’t like about my lansky is touching up is difficult bec the knife has to be in the same place in the clamp as it was the last time. Can be quite annoying trying to match it by moving the knife around in the clamp. Wish I had a way to remember where it was exactly.
Thanks for the video mate. What was the honing compounded called?
xyclonus Cedric’s special dinner.
Why my coarse diamonds hone and medium hone are soft like fine hone after 2 or 3 knifes? Tgey loose roughness.
Great reveiw i might have to get my lansky system out of the cupboard now!. How did you get the excess sharpie off the blade of the spydiechef and is it food safe? I have real trouble with this.
Cheers
Tim
Methylated spirits will remove the sharpie and then evaporate. Perhaps then wipe with soapy water if you are still worried about contamination.
EDnaut thanks for the tip
Cold steels xhp seems on par or better than other companies??( Broken skull video) any gonna scoop up para 3 and broken skull with that lansky. I can't drop half a grand on sharpening
What's better with cheap systems below 100. Work sharp or Lansky . I'm asking you because you don't seem to be sponsored by them
I've been looking at these, I like how it can be broke down so compact. I've seen ppl get good results from those cheap Chinese ebay knock off systems, the stones look crap tho
this looks like something that I could use, a little bit pricey for me but I still like this system
I hated the clamp and guide. The stones are great, especially the 1000 grit and 2000 sapphire. I cut matching threads on a steel rod so I could use them with my Smith's angle guide. Between them and a Flex cut yellow strop I get a near mirror edge.
Cedric was licking his chops when you pulled out that white compound. Also are there Australian sellers or do we have to mail order from America.
Should have no problems sourcing a Lansky System in AU, I bought mine on Ebay.
Good review, but one thing you just barely missed. That replacement screw....well it's also longer so you can sharpen 1/4 inch or 6mm blades.
Can this sharpen my high end Damascus kitchen knife?
My jig doesn't have that dip in it where the screw sits. Would be nicer if it did.
How does the clamp work with knives like a Spyderco para 3 where its a ffg and the thickness tapers off quite drastically?
It does just fine
The threads on the clamp on mine wore down, and the clamp itself deformed because I would need to progressively torque it down more and more so the blade wouldn't slip. Soft aluminium. Not surprising though as I used mine to put edge's on the unsharpened blades I'd make, goddamn did it take forever, and the cramps! oh man the cramps... Good for touching up or re-profiling pocket knives though. Also mate, I think the rods are supposed to be level with the flat of the stone? Maybe it makes no difference but it might affect the angle slightly.
ahh yes, I was wondering that. I have made sure they were uniform, but yea the angles are probably a bit out, numbers wise
Yeah I doubt it impacts the final edge at all. Do you have any issues sharpening full flat grinds? Because I just did my manix 2 with his system right before watching this, seems there's always some amount of bias towards one side or the other. I can't clamp it dead straight and end up with uneven bevels.
Yeah I form the apex on the belt also, finish on some water stones followed by a strop and hey presto. Considering investing in a CBN wheel for the bench grinder and a paper stropping wheel.
Yes he does have a great set up, he showed how he made that sharpening station a while back on Facebook and Instagram. I don't make enough blades either, in fact it's been nearly a year since I made one and that was the knife reviewed on this channel. I'll be ramping up production into 2018 though and I don't have a lot of time with my studies so anything to reduce time spend on laborious and tedious tasks like sharpening would be worth looking into for me.
Yeah that's the one. Thanks mate, all the best.
What did you say at 8:53? Youll need the diamond 300 for anything above what?
CTS-HXP and above. Essentially he means anything that is harder to sharpen than the CTS-XHP steel, you'll want that 250 grit diamond.
Want one my sharpmaker doesn't cut it on good steels
Question: you used to use a lot of tormek..... now lansky? Does it not take FOREVER???
oh yeah, I’ll still tormek the bigger stuff. The Boker Vox Rold I recently did was bloody painful on the lasnky. This can get them a little sharper though 😊
Correct me if I am.wrong (I only know freehand), but it looks like this would mess up wharncliffe and reverse tanto style blades (specifically at the tip of the knife)?
Think of the roof of a house or a pyramid. The angle is the same from the top all along the bottom edge. It's actually best for wharncliffe.
difflocktwo I understand for freehand that straight edges are very simple to sharpen (specifically due to the angle being the same), but it looks as though for this system you angle the rod as you approach the belly or the tip of the knife. I may be wrong, but that's what the system appears to do.
Phil Sinex ruclips.net/video/UjoTLYsKG9k/видео.html
raphael beinhauer Good link and discussion in comments.
difflocktwo I'm glad I found it so quickly, I remembered it being from a completely different channel.
Out of curiosity, what angle should you sharpen the spydiechef?
He strongly implied it's 20 degrees inclusive.
Could I use this on larger kitchen knifes? What’s the longest knife I could sharpen?
Well, with out sharpening your knife in segments I would say you could probably do between.6-8 inches in one stroke.
Though it wouldn't matter unless you're trying to sharpen a sword..
AngelBird thank you
hey Pete, could you please do a vid busting some moves to the music? 😁
Go to the hardware store and pick up another flat head screw for the back screw then you won’t have as big of a problem on that 17° angle also I see your stones and roads are technically set up wrong you should put them Stone side down on the flat surface and level the rod to the stone but it’s on the table when sitting on a table rod Should be level with your stone
I just bought one of these and absolutely nothing is even.
The hone rods aren't at an even 90 degrees. The jaws aren't at an even 90 degrees. Very rough, this system. There's just no way of knowing that the degrees are going to be as promised. Not for perfectionists.
Also, I have a question: The red screw at the back of the jaws. Is it supposed to not screw into the bottom jaw and just push against it? The bottom jaw of mine doesn't have a hole for that screw at the back. So, two screw holes in the top jaw, but only one hole (for the screw nearest to the mouth of the clamp) in the bottom jaw. Is that correct, or does mine have a manufacturing error?
Good video and whats the song name at the end of the video?
The Man with the Machinegun - FF8 ost, it has plenty of remastered remixes, and Black Mages version too 👍
i like to fix the sharpening stone in a small vise, put the clamp on the blade, and use the system as a whetstone, just with a guide, less play with guide rods... and yea, diamonds all the way, i can sharpen a ceramic blade, so zdp, m390 is a joke, yea, it takes few minutes longer, but i can see progress unlike with the ceramic stones. Also is a good idea to cover blade in duct tape or any painters tape to prevent scratches
buy the diamond rough out stone the stone grit is usless black one in this vid
get cheap table vice that clamps on side
put tea towel in then the other end of the lansky
keep note pad with kit right each angle for each knife u own.
dish soap to clean honing alerbasca yellow stone
Gummy Bear yeah I tried to reprofile XHP with the black stone. Was taking bloody ages, the diamond did it superbly
Gummy Bear I
honing oil will disolve lots of adhesives. seems like lansky shouldve known that one.
I was about to throw mine out but I see the problem now. I need to get that diamond stone to really cut away and set a lansky angle on the blade.
ive just ordered coarse diamond 120 and fine diamond to go with this 250 stone I already have
Are the non diamond stones made of ceramic?
I know they have Diamond, Ceramic, and Arkansas stones but, In the kit I have only the ultra fine is Ceramic..
i use a rather unique trick on any of my sharpening systems i got a lansky and a edge pro.....my non diamond stones i use shaveing gel instead of oil or water ((i use oil and water too some times)) it seems the shaveing gel removes more metal cleans off the stone easier and over all makes the knife sharper ((though that could just be a perception thing)) recomend giving it a try i use sensitive shave gel from dollar tree soo its a $1 waste if it dont work out for ya
Can you use water instead of oil?
It's recommended with oil.. I suppose you could but, Why not use oil of similar viscosity..
great review! the one issue with the kit tho is that the rod isnt kept at a precise angle in the guide. so you can have some issues occasionally. this is where the kme and edge pro resolve that. or just concentration. also im not sure how much pressure you were using on the strop, but less pressure the better, guided systems tend to round the edge when using a strop on them.
great kit for the money tho.
i was thinking about sending a bunch of stuff your way including a KME with diamond stones, but its going to be expensive, so going to try and save up for that day.
Also might want to tell people to keep their fingers on the TOP of the stones. I realized pretty quickly that if you get lazy and drop a fingertip down the side of those stones, you are ramming it dead into the blade with the upstroke. Also, before everyone gives up on the Worksharp, they should really try it with the Blade Grinding attachment. It’s only for the Ken Onion version of the WS (won’t work with the one you commonly show) but as far as I’m concerned, the Blade Grinding attachment is the way the WS should come from the factory. Way overpriced though. Even with the attachment, it should be a $70 tool, not a $200 tool.
Lansky system might use American Grit standards for their stones
maybe those red stoppers should have been designed to go on the bottom of that clamp...?
Edge Pro Clone on Amazon or Ebay for about $30.00 , it comes with 4 cheap stones , its a good system for beginners, once you become a master , you can buy the good stones for about $17.00 each.
Any chance you make a freehand sharpening vid just for shits and giggles?
hehehe, Im not a very good freehand sharpener, but in my 80crv2 Steel test I convex the edge with some japanese wetstones.
ruclips.net/video/2N3x1k0dkqU/видео.html
Go to ur local hardware store and get a second screw so u can get rid of both of those red tops
I put a dime in my Lansky box to tighten that front screw.
Sngx1304 how can you afford to do that?
I would recommend placing a knife in the clamp before sharpening.🤷🤦
the only time a swiss army knife is the perfect tool, is when it's the only tool you have.
13:55 -13:56 what the hell xD
gugli hahah that needs a remix. Brain fail
I hated this thing. its so inconsistent and the clamp would hold the knife very tight. half way through it would slip. I so not like it at all. I wish I spent $200 and just got a kme. I bought one anyways
Lol this video proves how people on RUclips just blabber and just not have a clue that what they're doing is right and acting helpful
Looks rickety, imprecise, too much play everywhere, probably inconsistent given that you will have trouble seating certain knives in the clamp, and the limitations imposed by not being able to sharpen certain blade heights, and having to reprofile your edge to match the floppy holes and edge angles it can do is not for me. Looks way too much like a chinsy Chinese piece of crap that I will probably get frustrated with and throw against the wall. The big guys know that and that's why they charge through the nose for a Wicked Edge or Edge Pro etc... You get what you pay for.
This vid is 100% cringe worthy 👍 you should really watch some instructional vids before making a vid on this
The base is terrible
I replaced all the red topped screws with Allen screws and used a hex wrench to tighten them. No bulky heads in the way of the rods. Had the ceramic set, upgraded to diamond then eventually the KME. Now that I only own a few less expensive knives I sold the KME and went back to the Lansky, all most people really need