JEWELRY BUFFS AND COMPOUNDS. WHICH SHOULD I USE?
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- Опубликовано: 19 май 2021
- In this video you will learn: 1.) The 2 Stages of Polishing and Buffing 2.) The Types of Buffs/Mops to use at each Stage. 3.) The Types of Compounds to use at each Stage. Designer Craftsman Jeweler, Greg Greenwood, will explain the difference in Buffs/Mops and Compounds and which should be used for the "Cutting Action Stage" and the "Coloring Action Stage". Learn how to dress muslin buffs. Great tutorial for beginning students.
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Anyone else missing Greg? Hoping he's on a well-deserved relaxing holiday!
Hello LA Os, I am missing me too!! LOL New videos coming soon. Thanks for caring. I appreciate it. Greg Greenwood
I was so confused as to what compound to use. Thanks for clearing it up!
Hello Mia, You are more than welcome. Glad I can help you. Greg Greenwood
Thank you so very much for this thorough explanation of the different buffs and compounds. Your explanation of why there are rows of stitching on muslin buffs alone was an AHA! moment for me! 😁
Hello Kim, I am very happy that I am able to help you. And have AHA moments!!! Thank you for watching. Greg Greenwood
This is so good, i searched for weeks for this.... THANK YOU
Hello home, Very glad that you have found my channel. I have many videos that will help you get started in jewelry making. If you have any questions in the future, please feel free to let me know. Welcome to my Studio! Greg Greenwood
Excellent tutorial, Greg!
Hello Anders, Thank you very much. I appreciate you watching. Greg Greenwood
I love a teacher/mentor with your enthusiasm. Thank you for all you are sharing. I know it means a lot to my journey. I am sure it means a lot to others as well.
Hello Tam. I am very glad that you are enjoying my videos. I am passionate about teaching and sharing my knowledge for future artists and metalsmiths. Many times experience is lost and never recovered. I have been making jewelry for over 50 years and hate to see my limited experiences to go to waste. Thank YOU for sharing. I appreciate it very much. Greg Greenwood
@Greg Greenwood I am very happy to hear about your journey. I have been learning gem cutting and cabbing from a wonderful gentleman that has been faceting and cabbing for 60+ years. He is 85, and sadly, this was his last year teaching from his studio. He has been doing some silversmithing on the side. He has forgotten more than I will ever know. But I feel honored to have been one of his students. I am embarking on silversmithing to make whole finished pieces. I am 56 and currently embarking on my retirement career and passion. Thank you for your time and passion.
Hello Tam, Thank you again for sharing. It is always interesting. Take Care. Greg Greenwood
I use tripoli and rouge ! I have the knew ones too . I like old school 35yrs 3rd generation jeweler . I just like the old stuff works better more dirt but the end product counts ! Love your work !
Thank you !👍👍👍
Hello Oleg, Old school rocks! I like to use white diamond and rouge. After 50 years, one gets used to using the old standards! Thank you for your kind comment. Take care. Greg Greenwood
Super helpful! Thank you Greg. Thank you for sharing your skills and knowledge with us.
Hello Neverenuftime, Hello Nererenuftime, My pleasure! I am here to help you anytime. Greg Greenwood
You are truly a gift! You have a God given talent and you share it with the world. Bless you. Thank you.
Hello Brittany, Thank you for your kind comments. I appreciate it. Thanks for watching. Greg Greenwood
Thanks Greg, very helpful info. I just became a subscriber.
Hello Spiders, Thanks for the sub! Glad I can help you. Keep watching. Greg Greenwood
Thank you! You always give the best info!
Hello Samuel, My pleasure! Thank you for your comments. I appreciate it. Greg Greenwood
Really helpful information, thank you so much!
Hello Misty, Glad it was helpful! Thank you for your comments. I appreciate it. Greg Greenwood
As you stated, it is very important not to cross-contaminate your buffs.
That, of course, also applies for the flex shaft tools. Best way to keep things seperated there is to have a block where you stick your flex shaft tools and mark certain areas with the colours of the compound you're using with these tools.
Also, if you also work with non-precious or not-so-precious metals, one should keep in mind, that, since polishing is an abrasive action, some metal will actually go onto your buffs. This will significantly alter the way the buff now will work on your precious metal. E.g. you polish a new burnisher or a stamp, then, in this case, the buff will be contaminated with the iron from that tool - and since iron is much harder than any of the precious metals, that buff should never again be used with precious metal.
So one should not only pair buffs and compounds, but also mark them for the material(s) they are to be used with. Never use a steel/iron buff on precious metals and never use a metal buff on organic material (like bone, antler or horn objects).
Thanks Torsten for your insights. I agree with you 100%. Buffs are cheap so keep them separated and make life easy. I use a steel compound on my tools, so I always have the buffs separate. I will be doing a video on flex shafts soon and I will be demonstrating how to keep the buffs separated also. Thanks again for your suggestions. I always appreciate your comments. Greg Greenwood
This is a fantastic video thank you!
Hello Justyne, You are more than welcome. I am glad I can help you. Keep watching! Greg Greenwood
Hi Greg, thank you so much for this wonderful video. It really is helpful!
Hello Maryam, You're very welcome! Thank you for watching. Greg Greenwood
Perfect timing! Thank you! 🤗
So glad!
Excelent!! 👏🏻
Glad you liked it. Greg Greenwood
Great video!👍 Thanks.
Hello Johannes, Glad you liked it! You are welcome. Greg Greenwood
Great video ❤
Glad you liked it!! Thanks again for watching. Greg Greenwood
Hi Greg, thank you for your video. it is very simple and straight to the point.
Question, I have been having issues with Sterling Silver flat surface to get it to mirror finish. it seems at my last stage of polishing I start getting very tinny scratches with the direction of the buffing wheel. so every time I try to get rid of those lines I start getting new ones in the int the same direction that my buffing wheel is turning.
FYI, I'm using red rouge with muslin wheel. I have cleaned the wheel few times to make sure it is not contaminated, yet, still get the same results! at this point I have no idea what to do. plus, I sand my piece to 400Grits then I start with Zam til it is ready for the final red rouge.
Hello Raid, Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. Mirror finishes can be a problem because we see ALL the flaws. The buffing wheel that you use at the end should be an UNSTITCHED cotton buff. The "Balloon Cloth" buffing wheel is excellent. It is super soft and will leave minimum marks. Rio Grande Jewelry Supply sells them. They are more expensive than the regular cotton buffs but are well worth it. You are doing the right thing to keep on coming in at different angles. For the final pass on the mirror finish, touch it very lightly with the balloon buff in the direction that will match your design. This will give you the max finish. I hope this helps you. Thank you for your comments, I appreciate it. Let me know how it goes. Greg Greenwood
I appreciate the videos, awesome information! Would love to see you touch on flex shafts and their proper use
Hello, Thank you for your great comments. I will be doing a video on the flex shaft soon. Make sure you subscribe and ring the bell so you will be notified when the new videos come out. Thanks again. Greg Greenwood
I second that request. I do all finishing work by hand and with the flex shaft rather than using a polishing machine. My space just doesnt allow a machine that size 😬 Thanks Mr. Greenwood your videos are always outstanding!!!!
Thank you! I will be doing the flex shaft video soon. Thanks again. Greg Greenwood
@@greggreenwood4628 awesome to hear that you'll be doing flex shaft videos. The only power tool I use so far is a Dremel, and every once a blue moon, I get to use my friend's cab king. But mostly I work strictly with the Dremel.
Greg, Fantastic video. Thanks for the info. I purchased a felt bangle buff. It has a wooden core and I'm having a devil of a time getting it mounted on my tapered spindle so that it doesn't wobble. Do you have any tips? Same question for the ring buffs. Thanks. Dan Spada
Hello Daniel, Thank you for your kind comment. I appreciate it. Wooden core buffs can be a little bit of a pain when they are new. You can solve this problem by : (FOR THE BANGLE BUFF) 1. Holding the spindle and force the buff onto the spindle, turning and screwing it in at the same time. Then turn on the wheel and put a piece of wood up against the wood core to center it. Sometimes it will fall off. Just redo it several times. This will open up the core hole and make the buff go onto the spindle further. If you have to hold the core and adjust with your hand, that is OK. Just don't turn on the wheel while you are holding the buff. OR: 2. You can drill the middle hole out a little bit bigger and this will make the buff go onto the spindle more and it will be secure and centered. (FOR THE RING BUFF) Do the same thing on the ring buffs. Be careful not to drill the hole too big. There is limited space for you to work. Ring buffs will center themselves easier than the bangle buffs. Especially with the piece of wood pushing on the ring buff's wooden part.
I hope this helps you. Let me know how it goes. Greg Greenwood
Thank you, Greg, I've been so perplexed with all of the varieties and applications. Now I can sleep! lol
You are very welcome Gigi, I know it can be confusing. Ask me questions anytime and enjoy your sleep!!! Greg Greenwood
Thanks for a great video. Do you clean your metal when you move to another buff so you don't cross contaminate? and what is best and fastest way to clean the metal? Thanks!
Hello Brian, Yes, you should clean the metal between buffs. "Dawn" dish soap and water are good. You can use a natural bristle brush and it will not leave scratches like a toothbrush will. Ultra sonic cleaners are the best. But they can be pricey. Thanks for the nice comment and the question. Greg Greenwood
@@greggreenwood4628 Thanks Greg! Much appreciated as always!
You are very welcome. Greg Greenwood
I’ve now got 4 polishing compounds in my Rio Wish List and I’d like your opinion on them. Osborn white diamond and red rouge compared to Picasso Blue Platinum and Osborn graystar? The first two are from your lesson and the other two from another channel. Which two are best for Sterling and Argentium? Thanks
Hello Lori, These compounds should be all you need. I have not used the Picasso Blue but I have the graystar. I feel that all of these are great for Sterling and Argentium. I have worked with Argentium but have not done a lot of polishing to compare the graystar. Every jeweler has preferences, so try them all and see which works best for you. Remember, there are no rules to what you can use on pieces. But remember to keep the compounds separate from each other. Thank you so much for asking, I appreciate it. The best to you. Greg Greenwood
Hello Greg,
I like to watch your videos and they are really very helpful for newly learners like me.
Could you please tell me the composition of very easy silver solder?
Hello Time to be Explored, Thanks for your question. You can watch my video "What the Heck is Sterling Silver and Silver Solder? It explains what solder is the the differences in the grades of solder. I know it will help you. Thanks Greg Greenwood
All of your videos have been with silver jewelry. As a newbie, I am working with copper for now. Would like to make some copper rings with bezel settings and also pendants. I know the techniques are pretty much the same, but is there anything I should know that is different when working with copper?
Also, I do not have the fancy buffing machine that you have. I have a flex shaft jewelers kit; for now. Watched several other people using the flex shaft for polishing, grinding etc, but you can tell MUCH information was left out. With your EASY to follow instructions, was wondering if you could do 2 videos. One -using copper for jewelry pendants, rings and finishing polishing techniques with perhaps the flex shaft or other methods if you don't have the ex[pensive machinery. #2 would LOVE a video on what you can use the flex shaft for, with an explanation of all the little bits. I have had to watch MANY videos trying to piece-meal this info together; and quite frankly it has left me even MORE CONFUSED! I KNOW there is MORE information that is needed with using the flex shaft thatt people must assume you already know!
Thank you Greg for ALL of your videos, as I have learned SO MUCH thus far and I LOVE your way of teaching. You make it EASY BREEZY! BTW, my name is Beverly : - )
Hello Beverly, Much better than Crazy! LOL . Great suggestions. I will work on them. Thank you very much for your continued support and kind comments. See Ya Beverly. Greg Greenwood
Can you comment on using the little buffs with the flex shaft? I only use that with Sam and haven't use any other buffing compound.
Hello Ann, The compounds and the buffs are basically the same on the flex shaft as they are on the large polishing wheel. You can get the muslin buffs, felt buffs, etc. , and buff mandrels separately. Keep them separated according to the compounds that you use. Don't cross contaminate the compounds and buffs. I will be doing a video on the flex shaft soon. Subscribe and ring the bell so you will get notified when the new videos come out. Thank you for your question. I am happy to help. Greg Greenwood
Great, great video. Can you please tell me what brand magnetic tumbler you use? I saw it in one of your videos and now I can not find it.
Hello Keely,
Mine is by ARBE Machine mfg. from Farmingdale, NY. Also, Rio Grande Jewelry Supply has a wide variety of magnetic tumblers. I hop this helps you. Greg Greenwood
@@greggreenwood4628 Yes, it did. Thank you!
Great. Greg Greenwood
Can you get the same polish from a polishing cloth as a red rouge compound?
Hello LJ. A polishing cloth will give a nice polish, but red rouge compound on a buffing wheel will give you the maximum buff. Thanks for your question. Keep watching. Greg Greenwood
What about us guys who are just getting started, and don't own a bench grinder yet. Are there Dremel based buffs you'd recommend?
Hello Red Eye Stones, I know where you are coming from. I did not have a buffing wheel for a long time. My first was an old washing machine motor that I put a tapered spindle on and strapped it to wooden board. I used a pie pan with water and dish soap to collect the dust. ( See my video "Jewelry Polishing Machine & Dust Collector") Also check out my video " Age Old Low Tech Polishing and Buffing Techniques" As for the Dremel buffs, I would use muslin/cotton are great for polishing. Use the compounds just as you would on a large wheel. I hope this has helped you. Thanks Greg Greenwood
Great video and great information! Thank you. Where is the best place to buy the compounds? I saw Zam at 40$ for 100 grams, is this a normal price?
Hello Iris, That is way too high for the compound. Rio Grande Supply has many types and at good prices. Let me know how it goes. Greg Greenwood
@@greggreenwood4628 thank you, I will check this. Take good care!
Anytime! Greg Greenwood
Which buff we should use to remove plating patches without removal of plating
Hello devdatt, I would use a soft unstitched muslin buff. Use a milder compound and buff lightly. Thanks Greg Greenwood
This might seem like a really silly question. But if I want to avoid using harsh chemicals, can I clean the polishing compound off the jewelry post-polishing just by using soap and water? I'm looking at a red rouge that says it's water based for easy cleanup. But it looks like the first stage compounds will need to be cleaned off with something that removes oil. Do you think that simple soap and water would be okay?
Yes, soap and water work great. You can also use a natural bristle brush instead of a toothbrush. It will not leave any scratches. If you can afford an ultra sonic cleaner, they are wonderful and will really clean up your jewelry. BUT, if the budget doesn't allow at this time, you can pick up a cheaper one for home jewelry at a box store or a thrift shop. Love your questions! Greg Greenwood
@@greggreenwood4628 Thank you very much! Then I will use soap and water for now (with a cover over the drain) and place an ultrasonic cleaner on my "to buy when I can" list. I will most likely have more questions now that I am officially branching out into polishing. (I'll be placing an order for all the needed goodies within the next few days. And then learning to use them. Lol.) I really appreciate your willingness to help! And thank you for the awesome answers and videos! 👍 🤗
Have Fun! and you are more than welcome. Greg Greenwood
@@greggreenwood4628 I'm playing with my online shopping cart right now and having fun already! ☺️ I read your suggestion to someone else to check out Rio Grand. They're awesome! And my dremel is set up and ready to go. (I'll be watching your video on dremel use as soon as it comes out, too.) And I'll be using hand tools like in your low tech video, too. I can hardly wait to try it all hands on! 👏
Oh no! Just when I think I have every tool I need!
Hello jjsmama, After 50 years, I still say the same thing!!!! Good Luck, If you have any questions in the future, please feel free to let me know. Thanks for watching. Greg Greenwood
What if I use small cotton stitched buff for a flex shaft and how to "peel" then if i don't have this sharp metal tool you mentioned here: ruclips.net/video/4-ojCNL3gGg/видео.html ? I assume it's also too big to use. Is there another method without complicated tool needed?
Hello Dominika, Sorry for the delay in replying. You are correct in not wanting to use the large rake to clean your small buffing wheels.
For the small stitched buffs on the flex shaft, you can use the edge of an old file, a serrated knife, a fork, a broken hack saw blade. Chuck these up in your bench vice if you have one. It makes it easier to hold. I have even used a broken piece of concrete block. Anything that has a rough edge will work fine. Definitely keep it simple!! Thank you for your great question. I hope this helped you. Let me know how it goes. Greg Greenwood
I like your videos, honest. But my OCD nature struggles with your ...dialect, or regional accent, or whatever. Where I am from "jewelry" is pronounced "jool er ee" but you say "jury". You also leave the "ly" on most adverbs silent. "...remove the flame quick..." rather than "quickly", for instance. You do provide lots of good information so i may just continue to watch your channel with the sound off and the "CC" turned on so i can spent less time screaming into a pillow. Thanks for all your great work.
Hello Allan, Love your comments!!! Sorry to make you scream into your pillow. Unfortunate "ly", I cannot help the dialect. I do try to be grammatically correct. Usually I get the "sold - er" and "sod -er" comments from watchers in the UK. This is what makes us all so interesting... Anyway, I am very glad you like the videos and that you have "CC" to keep you sane!!! Keep watching and I will try to put more ly's in the videos. Thanks again. Happy New Year. Greg Greenwood