I can’t get over how beautiful this will turns on! The craftsmanship is incredible. What a spacious and inviting space, Well done... Full support already. Good luck & Best regards po/Ned 👍👏👍
I've mentioned, I was in the Floorlayer's Union, here in St. Louis, for 35 years. We were almost always the last ones in, but I've been around enough & gone through enough blueprints, to have a pretty good take on what's going on, as you do your walk through & descriptions. The 2 dimensional limitations make a bit confusing, just because depth perception on the early layout, leave a lot to be desired, to put things into accurate concept...That said, now that walls are going up, it's much easier to get a grip on everything's functionality..... I traveled for 13 - 14 years installing artificial turf in Sports Venues. It was there that I really came to terms with layout & how absolutely vital that is, to issues such as electrical & plumbing (but in our case, it was center logos, end zone lettering & hash marks & multi sport event, field lines layouts)... There's a lot to be said about, walking to a plot of ground, and precisely measuring every stake, and routing every underground utility, so it's is in its exacting position, both coming in & going out, before the first pour of any footing. It's complicated & can be stressful, just because mistakes can be very costly... My hat goes off to You for sharing all of your building experience...it's going to help Dinz & myself when we start making our plans to build... My only question is...I get that there is rebar running both vertically & horizontally, but when they pour a wall, and stop at intermittent levels, & then they pour again, doesn't that create a weakened section of the wall, at each stop & start point ? ..... I've worked with concrete backer boards, and I was taught to "flat trowel" our cement mortar, into the backer board & then trowel the "tooth" side, which is supposed to add 60% more strength to the bond, of the tiles, we would then set into the grooves of the troweled substraight......I'm not questioning the legitimacy of the entire process, I'm not an engineer. I'm just asking out of my own training, and my understanding of layered concrete...
Thanks for the detailed comment. I can see there is no tooth or groove between each section because of the metalyte longitudinal form that they end on. My limited understanding of cold joints is that they might occur if we interrupted the pour of a section and then finished it after the previously poured amount had begun to set, especially if the incomplete pour was uneven, like a diagonal slump inside the wall, that would ruin the compression feature of the wall. It seems that the Metalyte guys have found that each section is the max height to go before a blowout could occur and the need to let it set before continuing the next section. I'll ask Metalyte this question to see what they say. Thanks.
@torino2610 You won't have teeth marks or trowel ridges...That would only come into play when installing ceramic, marble, granite or like tiles (sorry about that confusion....It sounds like they have it figured out........my concern is simply the newer pour, on top of a dry, previous pour...concrete will undoubtedly stick to concrete, but under (heavy) stress, that seam line would be the weakest point...but they know 100 x"s about what they're doing, than I do
It wont matter much since the columns and beams hold most of the weight. None of the walls are load bearing. Structurally, those concrete walls are still leagues and leagues better than drywall that you find in most US homes.
Thanks for the update As builder I don't think concrete cold joints are going to be of any concern especially with the continuation of metal frames and rebars. Anyway more than 4 ft concrete placement and forsure there will be a problem.
Concrete inside steel framing, interesting. Steel frames and truss is nothing new to me but filling the walls with concrete is. Why did you choose that method. As you mentioned in a previous video you really need to be on top of the slump of the concrete and watch the vibrator operator very closely. When I was building fence of concrete posts and steel panel infills, I upset my guys when I asked them not to make the concrete like water. I have vast experience with concrete and didn't want weak concrete. I'm still confused as to why you are filling the walls with concrete and not an insulation. I started out as a bricklayer then mason on to being a builder, so I am very jealous of you access to large stones. I would love to do some creative landscaping with them. Nice to see something new other than blocks (hand rubble) or traditional (western style) formed concrete house construction. P.S. What are you planning for an external coating? Are you going to skim coat the internal walls?
Insulation in walls is rarely used here, I haven't seen it anywhere, perhaps in specialized buildings. CHB and poured in place is the norm here in the Philippines. I too try to convince the crew to use less water but it's a battle. The Metalyte team says they will skim coat the walls with tape similar to a drywall finish and use interior and exterior paint.
@@torino2610 I will be building a new house soon hopefully so I might have a chat with the Metalyte guys in the future. Tradition is strong here. It is very hard to get the guys to think of other ways than what they are used to doing.
Question: The joint tht forms between old pours and a new pour.........is tht not weak ? yes it is inside the "form" but I assume its not wet and not sure if rebar is also in place esp on those high walls........they were poured over multiple days ........ can u explain if these joints are a potential source for weakness ?
Good question. The wall pours are in sections, they begin and end at specific lateral metalyte spars, smoothed, finished and left to set before moving to the next section. A cold joint might occur if we interrupted the pour of a section and then finished it after the previously poured amount had begun to set. With rebar and vibration compaction, I don't expect any cold joint issues, especially with walls since they are in compression. P.S. We had some cold joints in the Garage floor pour and yes, cracks are evident where the pouring was delayed as the crew tired.
Very interested in this style of building for our house in the Philippines. Do you know if the metal lite is available on Guimaras island,? Iloilo is probably the closest major city, but would be at the southern end of the Guimaras. Not to keen on hollow block construction even though it is the norm for most of the Philippines when building residential with concrete. The overall strength and speed of construction very cool with this metal lite. I like the poured in place conduits, wiring and plumbing as well instead of the chipping out they do, with concrete patching after to repair it. Definitely going to need CAT 6 run through our build too for CCTV PPoE and computer drop ports. Looking at getting hybrid solar system only using the grid tie for backup to charge the batteries protect against all the wonderful brown outs. Anyways, interested to hear your thoughts on availability outside of Luzon, Western Visayas. Of course builders of good reputation as well, if you have the time to comment.
I will ask my Metalyte contact and post back with what I hear from them. Thanks for commenting! 😀 I heard back from Metalyte and they said they did projects in Iloilo but never on Guimaras Island. They said they probably could if inter-island hauling is available. You can contact them for more info. 👍🏼
@@torino2610 Thank you so much for the info. We have raw land at the moment want to take advantage of the ocean view when we build. Ton of mahogany trees on the property, will have to thin them down as they have too close to each other and allowed to grow wild by the previous owners.
I eventually managed to have the vendor take the SHP back for store credit. I used the credit for 2 more sets of 400w solar panels. I have yet to get back on the project. I think I will probably end up with a manual transfer switch.
I can’t get over how beautiful this will turns on! The craftsmanship is incredible. What a spacious and inviting space, Well done...
Full support already. Good luck & Best regards po/Ned 👍👏👍
A huge house and looks well built
Your project is going well… seems to be nice and steady… appreciate the tour and explanation of the project. 👏🏻👏🏻
Thank you! 😄👍
Looking good, thanks for the great tips
Thanks for watching! 😀
Nice progress today, Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for watching! 😊
Looking good.
Thanks 👍
Great job
Thank you! Thanks for watching👍
I've mentioned, I was in the Floorlayer's Union, here in St. Louis, for 35 years. We were almost always the last ones in, but I've been around enough & gone through enough blueprints, to have a pretty good take on what's going on, as you do your walk through & descriptions. The 2 dimensional limitations make a bit confusing, just because depth perception on the early layout, leave a lot to be desired, to put things into accurate concept...That said, now that walls are going up, it's much easier to get a grip on everything's functionality.....
I traveled for 13 - 14 years installing artificial turf in Sports Venues. It was there that I really came to terms with layout & how absolutely vital that is, to issues such as electrical & plumbing (but in our case, it was center logos, end zone lettering & hash marks & multi sport event, field lines layouts)...
There's a lot to be said about, walking to a plot of ground, and precisely measuring every stake, and routing every underground utility, so it's is in its exacting position, both coming in & going out, before the first pour of any footing. It's complicated & can be stressful, just because mistakes can be very costly...
My hat goes off to You for sharing all of your building experience...it's going to help Dinz & myself when we start making our plans to build...
My only question is...I get that there is rebar running both vertically & horizontally, but when they pour a wall, and stop at intermittent levels, & then they pour again, doesn't that create a weakened section of the wall, at each stop & start point ? ..... I've worked with concrete backer boards, and I was taught to "flat trowel" our cement mortar, into the backer board & then trowel the "tooth" side, which is supposed to add 60% more strength to the bond, of the tiles, we would then set into the grooves of the troweled substraight......I'm not questioning the legitimacy of the entire process, I'm not an engineer. I'm just asking out of my own training, and my understanding of layered concrete...
Thanks for the detailed comment. I can see there is no tooth or groove between each section because of the metalyte longitudinal form that they end on. My limited understanding of cold joints is that they might occur if we interrupted the pour of a section and then finished it after the previously poured amount had begun to set, especially if the incomplete pour was uneven, like a diagonal slump inside the wall, that would ruin the compression feature of the wall. It seems that the Metalyte guys have found that each section is the max height to go before a blowout could occur and the need to let it set before continuing the next section. I'll ask Metalyte this question to see what they say. Thanks.
@torino2610 You won't have teeth marks or trowel ridges...That would only come into play when installing ceramic, marble, granite or like tiles (sorry about that confusion....It sounds like they have it figured out........my concern is simply the newer pour, on top of a dry, previous pour...concrete will undoubtedly stick to concrete, but under (heavy) stress, that seam line would be the weakest point...but they know 100 x"s about what they're doing, than I do
It wont matter much since the columns and beams hold most of the weight. None of the walls are load bearing. Structurally, those concrete walls are still leagues and leagues better than drywall that you find in most US homes.
Thanks for the update
As builder I don't think concrete cold joints are going to be of any concern especially with the continuation of metal frames and rebars.
Anyway more than 4 ft concrete placement and forsure there will be a problem.
Agreed. Thanks for the input. 👍🏼
Concrete inside steel framing, interesting. Steel frames and truss is nothing new to me but filling the walls with concrete is. Why did you choose that method. As you mentioned in a previous video you really need to be on top of the slump of the concrete and watch the vibrator operator very closely. When I was building fence of concrete posts and steel panel infills, I upset my guys when I asked them not to make the concrete like water. I have vast experience with concrete and didn't want weak concrete.
I'm still confused as to why you are filling the walls with concrete and not an insulation.
I started out as a bricklayer then mason on to being a builder, so I am very jealous of you access to large stones. I would love to do some creative landscaping with them.
Nice to see something new other than blocks (hand rubble) or traditional (western style) formed concrete house construction.
P.S. What are you planning for an external coating? Are you going to skim coat the internal walls?
Insulation in walls is rarely used here, I haven't seen it anywhere, perhaps in specialized buildings. CHB and poured in place is the norm here in the Philippines. I too try to convince the crew to use less water but it's a battle. The Metalyte team says they will skim coat the walls with tape similar to a drywall finish and use interior and exterior paint.
@@torino2610 I will be building a new house soon hopefully so I might have a chat with the Metalyte guys in the future. Tradition is strong here. It is very hard to get the guys to think of other ways than what they are used to doing.
Question: The joint tht forms between old pours and a new pour.........is tht not weak ? yes it is inside the "form" but I assume its not wet and not sure if rebar is also in place esp on those high walls........they were poured over multiple days ........ can u explain if these joints are a potential source for weakness ?
Good question. The wall pours are in sections, they begin and end at specific lateral metalyte spars, smoothed, finished and left to set before moving to the next section. A cold joint might occur if we interrupted the pour of a section and then finished it after the previously poured amount had begun to set. With rebar and vibration compaction, I don't expect any cold joint issues, especially with walls since they are in compression. P.S. We had some cold joints in the Garage floor pour and yes, cracks are evident where the pouring was delayed as the crew tired.
Very interested in this style of building for our house in the Philippines. Do you know if the metal lite is available on Guimaras island,? Iloilo is probably the closest major city, but would be at the southern end of the Guimaras. Not to keen on hollow block construction even though it is the norm for most of the Philippines when building residential with concrete.
The overall strength and speed of construction very cool with this metal lite. I like the poured in place conduits, wiring and plumbing as well instead of the chipping out they do, with concrete patching after to repair it. Definitely going to need CAT 6 run through our build too for CCTV PPoE and computer drop ports. Looking at getting hybrid solar system only using the grid tie for backup to charge the batteries protect against all the wonderful brown outs.
Anyways, interested to hear your thoughts on availability outside of Luzon, Western Visayas. Of course builders of good reputation as well, if you have the time to comment.
I will ask my Metalyte contact and post back with what I hear from them. Thanks for commenting! 😀
I heard back from Metalyte and they said they did projects in Iloilo but never on Guimaras Island. They said they probably could if inter-island hauling is available. You can contact them for more info. 👍🏼
@@torino2610 Thank you so much for the info. We have raw land at the moment want to take advantage of the ocean view when we build. Ton of mahogany trees on the property, will have to thin them down as they have too close to each other and allowed to grow wild by the previous owners.
@@jeffgreagrey4585 Thanks for watching! Good luck on your build, an ocean view will be nice!👍🏼
@@torino2610 Salamat/Thank you very much.
did u ever solve tht 240V issue with EcoFlow ? Yeah DP3 is out now with built in 240V.
I eventually managed to have the vendor take the SHP back for store credit. I used the credit for 2 more sets of 400w solar panels. I have yet to get back on the project. I think I will probably end up with a manual transfer switch.
What board did you put sir?
Hi. We are using HardieFlex NexGen Fiber Cement Board 4.5mm for Residential Use.
@@torino2610 thank you sir for the reply ..god bless and stay safe and thanks for choosing our country 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻