To clarify for folks: Water spray with grinder, no no. Belt sander to sharpen, just fine if he dunked it in water to cool. Epoxy handle, not how I would do it but it is only a tiny hatchet, not a 7pound maul or felling axe, I'm sure it will hold just fine for carving spoons.
Slightly shocking to see the combination of spraying water and power tools. Metal buckets for quenching will prevent a pool of flaming oil if you happen to drop the head into the plastic bucket. The handle ....
@@mtarrant3 Double insulation will not protect you from electrocution. You were just lucky. Water is a conductor. Double insulation "insulates" you from the tool. The water bypasses that. If you don't believe me google using double insulated tools in wet areas. Not trying to be a jerk but, the comment I see right below mine is another guy who is going to do it because he saw you do it. It was a nice axe mod by the way.
Using epoxy to secure the head will work but if the handle needs to be replace, and it will, it will be a hell of a job removing the old handle. A properly shaped handle will fit in tight and no glue will be required. Just a wooden wedge tapped in to do the final snug.
I found the right place! Just got my Marbles Camp Axe - 1045 steel, forged - $28 + shipping - equal to any $200 axe with some re-working of the edge. I'm a Lefty and used to re-working tools to fit me. Aiming at an asymmetrical edge for a left handed user, between an ordinary axe and a carver. Can't really go wrong with only $30 something out of pocket.
There are a lot of people making comments about the epoxy- this is actually quite common nowadays. It is the standard way to hang a fiberglass handle, and it is also the way some wooden handled commercial axes are done. It's not as weak as you might think. I recently removed the handles from two hatchets; one with a wooden handle/wedge and another with a fiberglass handle/epoxy. The epoxy one was WAY harder to remove. I had to put it in a pan of boiling water to soften the epoxy and then chisel it out. I removed about 90% of the epoxy and I still couldn't get the damn thing off, even by putting the head in a vise and smacking the handle with a hammer. I ended up having to saw off the handle and drill out the remnants, then boil it again so I could scrape off the last bits of epoxy. Having said that, using a hose with the grinder like that was fucking retarded.
Nice result. Just a thought, I've made a carving axe out of a second hand meat clever. The blade is 3/16 thick with a half inch bevel on the cutting edge. It looks like an axe and works very well.
What is the point of the water cooling if you just ended up heat treating it anyways? Should've just gone ahead and annealed it at that point and save time grinding, and belts.
Also curious how that handle holds up. I'm a fan of the properly-fitted wedge and second (steel) wedge, though that's always the trickiest part of it. Well worth the patient effort, imho. Sometimes you get the odd gap and dripping some epoxy into those would be a great way to top 'em off. Nice vid. The best thing about making vids is learning from everyones' comments. I did a re-shape similar to this, but instead of making a general purpose hatchet into a carver, I turned and old Plumb half-hatchet, a.k.a., 'carpenter's hatchet' or 'shingling hatchet' into a forest/camping hatchet. Came out great -- love it. Did the straight tomahawk style handle so I can be a big kid and chuck it at logs like a savage. I've found it's waaay better to start with high-quality older axes, as almost everything made post-1950, except the top-enders like Gransfors, etc., are often of dubious quality -- especially since the Chinese crap steel started getting into the mix with today's cheap-o hardware store tools. Go with old axes you find at yard sales, estate sales, flea markets, etc. -- Plumb, Stanley, Collins... you'll get much better quality steel that polishes up nicer, and holds a better edge. The cheap crap steels chip easily, look grainy on the inside, dull easily -- junk. Keep dunking in a bucket of water when grinding, as you obviously know, though that 'hose technique' is kinda sketchy -- you won't have to re-harden. It'd be a bummer to do all that work only to have a second quench crack your piece. So -- where's the SPOON? ;-)
Nice job with the axe head. But the handle...you blew it. That's not a proper hang. You should never ever put epoxy to fill the space between the handle and head. The handle must be split with a bandsaw or a jigsaw and wedged.
Everybody knows your supposed to shoot the sparks in the same direction as the water hose is spraying. In order to prevent the carborundum of the wheel from oxidizing with the low carbon steel…
Ey mate, like what you've done here. Looks like you turned a cheap hatchet into something quite effective for carving. Never seen anyone just jam the handle in and epoxy the gap though. Let me know if that holds up better than a wedge.
Cheers ddrevo. Haha yer, the casting on the inside of the hatchet was really rough, so i didn't have much of an option. When i broke the handle out of this hatchet head originally I noticed that this is how the manufacturer had fitted the handle (with epoxy).
Ummm wtf!! So unsafe and you untempered the blade. Lucky to not of been injured as well. Why not have a wedge in there as well Wow? You hit the axe blade wrong too. You're going to get either yourself or someone injured!! Wow!
"isnt tempered correctly", yeah when it went flying off the grinder and you chucked it under the hose and the whole head was steaming that was a good sign the bit was going to be soft.
Hello, ok i gave this a thumbs down. The concept is good but your tool handling (use) leaves a lot to be desired. Water spraying on mains power tools is only going to lead to one thing, also you were very lucky not to slice your leg off,with the big grinder. I am a time served engineer so i know that things can turn bad very quick. Please be careful. You did make a good end product.
I can understand the reasoning behind why you may have made this video, but to make such a video with numerous unsafe practices is rather concerning. Whether it be mixing power tools and water, not using a vice or not properly fitting the handle in the axehead so that it can be wedged snugly, not glued. I think that if you're going to continue making videos, at least put some effort into executing them in a safe manner, rather than a rushed one. I'd much rather have a lengthy video that is thorough rather than something that lacks effort or care to a certain degree.
To clarify for folks: Water spray with grinder, no no. Belt sander to sharpen, just fine if he dunked it in water to cool. Epoxy handle, not how I would do it but it is only a tiny hatchet, not a 7pound maul or felling axe, I'm sure it will hold just fine for carving spoons.
Slightly shocking to see the combination of spraying water and power tools. Metal buckets for quenching will prevent a pool of flaming oil if you happen to drop the head into the plastic bucket. The handle ....
Power tools are double insulated
@@mtarrant3 Double insulation will not protect you from electrocution. You were just lucky. Water is a conductor. Double insulation "insulates" you from the tool. The water bypasses that. If you don't believe me google using double insulated tools in wet areas. Not trying to be a jerk but, the comment I see right below mine is another guy who is going to do it because he saw you do it. It was a nice axe mod by the way.
Whoa! Super smart having the hose run on the metal while you do the grinding. Man I wish I thought of that when I did my last axe. Thanks for the tip!
Homeboy has nuts the size of grape fruits and brain the size of a blue berry to firehouse an electric power tool like that.
Using epoxy to secure the head will work but if the handle needs to be replace, and it will, it will be a hell of a job removing the old handle. A properly shaped handle will fit in tight and no glue will be required. Just a wooden wedge tapped in to do the final snug.
I found the right place! Just got my Marbles Camp Axe - 1045 steel, forged - $28 + shipping - equal to any $200 axe with some re-working of the edge. I'm a Lefty and used to re-working tools to fit me. Aiming at an asymmetrical edge for a left handed user, between an ordinary axe and a carver. Can't really go wrong with only $30 something out of pocket.
There are a lot of people making comments about the epoxy- this is actually quite common nowadays. It is the standard way to hang a fiberglass handle, and it is also the way some wooden handled commercial axes are done.
It's not as weak as you might think. I recently removed the handles from two hatchets; one with a wooden handle/wedge and another with a fiberglass handle/epoxy. The epoxy one was WAY harder to remove. I had to put it in a pan of boiling water to soften the epoxy and then chisel it out. I removed about 90% of the epoxy and I still couldn't get the damn thing off, even by putting the head in a vise and smacking the handle with a hammer. I ended up having to saw off the handle and drill out the remnants, then boil it again so I could scrape off the last bits of epoxy.
Having said that, using a hose with the grinder like that was fucking retarded.
Thanks ThePenultimateNinja
for the comment
Grinding the edge with a power belt like that is probably what removed the temper.
Nice result. Just a thought, I've made a carving axe out of a second hand meat clever. The blade is 3/16 thick with a half inch bevel on the cutting edge. It looks like an axe and works very well.
Did it WORK? I have a vintage Ochsenkopf meat cleaver. What did you do re the bevel? Did you grind it yourself?
Aesthetics, health and safety aside, I'd have tempered it to a straw colour, rather than blue. Happy hewing.
What is the point of the water cooling if you just ended up heat treating it anyways? Should've just gone ahead and annealed it at that point and save time grinding, and belts.
At 2:13 i hope you did a limb check, easy to assume no pain means no damage till there is blood on the work.
Also when you sharpen it like you did to a point so fine, the metal is bound to burn off in the forge or break off during quenching.
Nice build, the hang was cringy, but looks proper
Also curious how that handle holds up. I'm a fan of the properly-fitted wedge and second (steel) wedge, though that's always the trickiest part of it. Well worth the patient effort, imho. Sometimes you get the odd gap and dripping some epoxy into those would be a great way to top 'em off. Nice vid. The best thing about making vids is learning from everyones' comments. I did a re-shape similar to this, but instead of making a general purpose hatchet into a carver, I turned and old Plumb half-hatchet, a.k.a., 'carpenter's hatchet' or 'shingling hatchet' into a forest/camping hatchet. Came out great -- love it. Did the straight tomahawk style handle so I can be a big kid and chuck it at logs like a savage. I've found it's waaay better to start with high-quality older axes, as almost everything made post-1950, except the top-enders like Gransfors, etc., are often of dubious quality -- especially since the Chinese crap steel started getting into the mix with today's cheap-o hardware store tools. Go with old axes you find at yard sales, estate sales, flea markets, etc. -- Plumb, Stanley, Collins... you'll get much better quality steel that polishes up nicer, and holds a better edge. The cheap crap steels chip easily, look grainy on the inside, dull easily -- junk. Keep dunking in a bucket of water when grinding, as you obviously know, though that 'hose technique' is kinda sketchy -- you won't have to re-harden. It'd be a bummer to do all that work only to have a second quench crack your piece. So -- where's the SPOON? ;-)
Nice Job 👍👍👍👍
Pull back on the death grip. Hand fatigue makes you burn out pretty quickly.
extremely danger. Don't grind in water, standing on wet ground, unless you would like to die.
Thats a poor hang but the head turnés out Nice
Nice job with the axe head. But the handle...you blew it. That's not a proper hang. You should never ever put epoxy to fill the space between the handle and head. The handle must be split with a bandsaw or a jigsaw and wedged.
Water electricity hope that's plugged into a ground fault breaker ZAP
Mitch, nice work 👌 What kind of belt grinder are you using?
I like the way you did that
Nice
Everybody knows your supposed to shoot the sparks in the same direction as the water hose is spraying. In order to prevent the carborundum of the wheel from oxidizing with the low carbon steel…
it's not safe for the combination of water spraying and power tools
Very simple instructions mate, cheers jack aus
The folks at OSHA would like a word with you. 😅
Ey mate, like what you've done here. Looks like you turned a cheap hatchet into something quite effective for carving. Never seen anyone just jam the handle in and epoxy the gap though. Let me know if that holds up better than a wedge.
Cheers ddrevo. Haha yer, the casting on the inside of the hatchet was really rough, so i didn't have much of an option. When i broke the handle out of this hatchet head originally I noticed that this is how the manufacturer had fitted the handle (with epoxy).
Mitch Tarrant no kidding. That’s unusual but hey, whatever works I guess
Do you have video of the log?
electric tool closer to water not a very good idea...
So many things done wrong in this video...
All these comments about electricity. If he had died, you wouldn't have a video to watch. Give the man some slack. It was a good build.
Holy shit smart with the hose! I will do a smaller stream so I dont get my electric tools wet but hey great principle
More than a carving axe you invented the circular cutter water cooling
Ummm wtf!! So unsafe and you untempered the blade. Lucky to not of been injured as well. Why not have a wedge in there as well Wow? You hit the axe blade wrong too. You're going to get either yourself or someone injured!! Wow!
Excellent tutorial!
What on God's green earth were you thinking hanging that new handle like that?
Seriously. Just bang the damn thing on from top side instead of striking the butt of the handle smh.
Lol. Cool vid but cant say it was simplest way.
haha yer, well simpler than forging the head from scratch.
Dude how on earth a you still alive ffs lad give Ower haha, mate PLEASE be careful
"isnt tempered correctly", yeah when it went flying off the grinder and you chucked it under the hose and the whole head was steaming that was a good sign the bit was going to be soft.
Spraying water next to an electrical tool bye bye good luck to you
Go check out wranglerstar as video on how to hang an axe head you just butchered it
There was too much that could have been bad smh.
Hello, ok i gave this a thumbs down. The concept is good but your tool handling (use) leaves a lot to be desired. Water spraying on mains power tools is only going to lead to one thing, also you were very lucky not to slice your leg off,with the big grinder. I am a time served engineer so i know that things can turn bad very quick. Please be careful. You did make a good end product.
重量バランスを考えて作っていると思うが切り落として大丈夫なの？
😳😳😳🥴🥴🥴😂😂😂😝😝😝
This is one of the most frightening, unsafe videos I’ve ever seen. Not a great job either.
Sorry, but so many things wrong with this video. No regards for your safety. Hose and a electric power tool???!!
I can understand the reasoning behind why you may have made this video, but to make such a video with numerous unsafe practices is rather concerning. Whether it be mixing power tools and water, not using a vice or not properly fitting the handle in the axehead so that it can be wedged snugly, not glued. I think that if you're going to continue making videos, at least put some effort into executing them in a safe manner, rather than a rushed one. I'd much rather have a lengthy video that is thorough rather than something that lacks effort or care to a certain degree.
Ha!Ha!
this whole video was hard to watch. he's gonna get himself seriously hurt someday. also needs to go back to school to learn spelling.