Use a small die grinder or Foredom/Dremel with a 1/8" burr to dig out that crack in the pump housing, and follow up by filling with aluminim brazing rod (Hobart is good, as is the Harbor Freight version). Propane or MAPP will work great. Be sure to remove all rubber/plastic seals from the housing first. TIG and filler rod will work well too. C'mon--you can save this thing! The pump uses a rotating 'swash plate' to actuate the three pistons. A very simple and efficient way of creating high pressure.
Dear T.D.I.T.C. 👍👌👏 I wanted to comment exactly the same. But fortunately you already did the work. Thx! 😁 This unit should be saved definitely. Best regards, luck and health.
Project Farm recently compared different aluminum brazing rods. Harbor Freight brand actually came out real good. Let's see a real world example Mustie!
Mustie! I was able to diagnose and fix my non-running log splitter yesterday because of watching videos like yours. I specifically remember feeling completely in the dark a few years ago trying to fix a lawnmower that wouldn’t start. I just had no idea what I was looking at. Feels really good to understand how these machines work. Thanks for the awesome content. Makes a big difference for people like me.
I gave this comment a thumbs up. I remember the first time I tore a small engine down and reassembled it. Made me feel so proud that it ran again. 2nd best feeling a 12 year old boy can have.
Meeee 2! My Dad could fix any small engine, from a chainsaw to an outboard motor! (weed-eaters hadn't been invented for that many years, for him to have worked on them yet). I never understood how it worked, but I'd watch him re-make parts. He would draw on gasket paper and have me to cut them out for him. My best friend was a retired FireFighter and his pension wasn't enough to live on so he opened a Weed-Eater/Lawnmower shop by his home. He had a constant inflow of customers...daily. I could fight my machine...pull on the cord till my arm was like a wet noodle, and take the machine to him and he would have it running in less than 5 minutes! & Cleaned up, too! Watching this fellows videos make it make since!!! It brings memories back of my Dad & my friend,...working on the machines. This guy KNOWS what he's doing...like in a fluid manner...he knows what each component does and what makes it tick...and he has the witt about him, that helps him communicate, to us his knowledge! Wow...he's good!
MUSTIE!! This past summer I was able to flip so many mowers and snowblowers! Thanks to your videos I made over 300 dollars just selling push and self propelled mowers. I am gonna get a new air compressor now because my 3 gallon one just won’t cut it. Thank you for all of your free educational content.
I found a 22" toro walk behind a couple months ago. Gave it the old tug test on the curb. I got it home, pulled it out of the car, cleaned the jets, and got it running before I even went in the house lol.
I’m answered a Craigslist ad with the same pressure washer, a 3600 watt generator, and two electric motors; all for $50.00. The pump on the pressure washer was broken in two places with pump housing pieces missing, a non-starter. I pulled the engine and installed it on a 22” Ariens walk-behind weed eaters. After cleaning the carb the engine fired right away but was revving way too high. I could slow the motor by moving the governor arm but it would max out as soon as I let it go; no governor control. I removed the engine, drained the oil, and removed the sump cover, sure enough the governor had come apart. I simply removed all of the governor parts and pieces using a magnet in all the nooks and crannies, replaced the oil slinger, and bolted up the sup cover. Once the engine was reinstalled on the weed eater I installed a throttle control in place of the governor and fired it up. What a beast, 7.75 horsepower, weeds don’t stand a chance! Darlington, South Carolina
Hi, After reading your post I came to the conclusion that my engine (same as the one in this video) may be having a broken governor? I was wondering if your old engine was difficult to remove from the Ariens weed eater? I have an Ariens leaf vacuum that is making it impossible for me to remove it from the impeller. Please let me know if you have any tips to remove the engine's shaft from the impeller?
@@georgesanchez9971 The Tecumseh engine had three bolts securing the engine to the deck. Once I had removed the drive belt and the three bolts, the engine lifted off easily as the drive pulley is a smaller diameter than the opening in the deck. I removed the bold and washer securing the drive pulley to the motor shaft but had to resort to using a gear puller to get the pulley off. I’m not sure how the impeller is secured to the engine shaft on your vacuum but I would think it has a bolt and is keyed to the shaft. Try Googling for an Ariens service manual using the model number of your vacuum.
@@williamlott7612 Thanks for getting back. You are correct the impeller is secured to the engine's shaft by a bolt and keyed to the shaft. I did try to contact Ariens several times. In my last attempt, I was able to speak to a service rep, but they were of no help. Their suggestion was for me to take the vacuum to an authorized dealer. I did get a hand of the owner's manual and parts but I am still looking for the service manual. In my view, this style of vacuum is very similar to the newer billy goat's design. I have been also trying to find their service manual. I just do not want to bend the impeller and throw out of balance.
Mustie, I've started buying ethanol free gas for all my yard equipment, they're running better than ever now. Thanks for all the lessons of no-start, bad gas carbs you've worked on in the past. You ROCK !
The brass part on the pump is the unloader valve. Usually when they fail, the engine will run and spray normally, but the engine will stall when you release the trigger. The unloader takes the high pressure output and circulates it back to the inlet
Most of the time on the Easier unloader valves like this one has, it's best To just Take it out of the pump housing and clean the the end of it, that goes inside of the pump, it's also Recommend not to adjust the factory set adjustments on the unloader valve... Most of the time a Small piece of debris is what causes the unloader valve to not function properly...
Worst case scenario, you take it to a welding shop to get TIG welded. The low temp brazing rod approach the other brothers mentioned is also a good way to fix it. The pump is definitely saveable. Thanks again for the great vids. Rev. D.
Mustie1's new video pops up. my thoughts - please be a small engine pressure washer not electric, please please please and volia! Your small engine repair videos are the best on youtube, I can't wait to watch it! Lots of people do restore videos, but they are silent and i get bored so quickly. It's your personality and charisma that really makes your videos so good. I feel like you are bringing us along every time and thats awesome.
You always work your magic!.......so relaxing to watch......... I even learned a bit from you on your last Pressure washer.......fixed my own.....thank you again!
Nice Mustie. This was like a back to basics carb workings vid. I was one of those guys who let the pump freeze over last winter. I had to bite the bullet and buy a $70 ebay pump. Slapped it on and I was up and running again. Great vid as always.
👍Sometimes ya win, other times ya lose. Neighbor gave me his 1yr old Pres washer. Said it stopped working. He bought another "throw-away"- When I finally got to it I ONLY found fuel shut off valve in OFF position. When I saw the valve I said, "no way could it be this easy"....Worked fine after turning fuel ON 😂😂😂👍 Yes, I told him. (He's embarrassed) He didn't want back. It sold quickly. Good video M!
Briggs Engine Tip that MAY be helpful. I have repaired 100's of Briggs engines. The top problem (not the problem on this engine) I have found with most of them that don't want to start and stay running (with this style of bowl nut/metering valve) is that they get clogged up with debris from the fuel tank. Note: ONE grain of sand will clog the metering jet and cause the engine to starve for fuel and either not run at all or perform poorly due to lack of proper fuel flow. Just blowing air through it will not always show a clogged metering jet. 1: I always clean and rinse the fuel tank. 2: I visually make sure you can see through the cross hole in the bowl nut. 3: I rinse the cross hole with brake clean and then block off one side of the cross hole and run some more brake clean through the open side of the cross hole to ensure that fuel will actually travel through the cross hole and up through the metering jet. If the brake clean doesn't provide a nice flow of fluid out the center hole in the end of the bowl nut/metering valve you may have to find a small piece of wire (i.e. like you find on you loaf of bread) and remove the colored plastic from the wire. Insert the wire down the center hole to clear any debris from the metering jet. After the wire is inserted you should be able to see it bottom out on the inside of the cross hole. Be careful that the cleaning wire is not to large and not to force it into the jet hole as it may enlarge the jet hole and ruin the proper fuel delivery ratio to the engine. John
Good tips! I usually get a rebuild kit ir just replace the carburetor. I have found a few carburetors with the center metering hole completely blocked. I have micro drill bits that can usually reopen those. The problem I find is the internal passages blocked or extreme corrosion due to water egress. Those pressure washers ingest water easily.
@@scottfirman Great to see another RC guy in the mix. I enjoyed that hobby for about 50 years. Started in 1968 and sold all my stuff back in 2018. Did everything from sport plane flying to RC helicopters and really enjoyed the journey.
You might be able to fix that crack using low temperature ali' brazing rod, I've managed to fix a few things with this stuff! You would need to 'vee' out the crack then heat it up with a MAP gas torch then apply the rod. It would make for a good video. In fact where the crack is located is already forming a vee anyway.
@@hughmc5419 tig probably easier with aluminum, but I have no experience with it, looked like a small crack. Mig aluminum is a pita. But yeah, new pumps only 75 dollhairs or so...good reason to tell the wife you need a new welder though 🤔😂
I have to wonder how many times, you've picked up something off the curb of someone who watches your videos and they go "Seriously that's all it was!" 😆
OR on the other side...someone like me..who sees him go thru all of that and not a working Power Washer...guess before I work on the carb, I had better check for leaks...it did get to 31 below zero this winter and my Garage is not heated. STILL I GREATLY APPRECIATE THE TIME YOU WENT TO and I am hitting SUBSCRIBE!
@@johngranoski4440 sometimes you just need to have life experiences... Even if it's just you chasing your tail. Acting like your time is too precious to waste
Yes, depending on the HP of the engine it is possible to upgrade the pump to 3200 psi from the original 2300. At that point the pressure washer is much more useable for heavy duty applications. With the $70 outlay, that pressure washer becomes a beast!
The engine seems like it runs good so 70 bucks for a new pump is still a good deal much cheaper than a new one. I found one with a split pump about 4 years ago and found a replacement pump on Amazon for 79 bucks. Mine is a Simpson and I just used it for it's 4th summer so not bad for 79 bucks.
Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU!! Love your videos and step by step explanations. I was able to fix a power washer for a friend. It had been sitting for years and would not start. The gas went bad and the clogged all the port holes. Your video has kept another fine working piece of machinery out of a landfill, and you saved them tons of money. Cheers! Keep up the great work.
I picked up a pressure washer this summer for $20. The lady told me the pump was no good. I took a chance on it only because it wasn't seized up. So I got it home, put some gas in it and much to my shock it started right up. All I did was change the sparkplug and a new fuel line (which is why the tank was empty and probably saved the carb). But sure enough the thing would not pressurize. So I tore it apart and figured I'd just grab a replacement pump off ebay. But wouldn't you know the thing had a hex driven pump. The crank didn't have a keyway on it, just a weird hex drive, and of course they no longer made that pump. And the rebuild kit was like $140. Not wanting to spend that much I just tore the whole pump apart and replaced the check valves and the spill valve. I never would have been able to do all that without watching your videos and learning so much from you. So thanks very much and keep them coming. Have a good one
I am a computer geek and on a day to day basis, I really don't care about engines... But then mustie comes in on Sunday and I'm drawn in and my brain says show me more. Due to this channel, my Sundays start with mustie and a large cup of coffee. A great way to start my Sunday. Keep up the great work mustie.
I winterize my pump by shooting some kind of fluid from a pressurized can. It comes with the fitting to match the hose inlet fitting. It blows out the water and leaves a lube film inside. I have to remind myself to stay away from the outlet. I gently turn the engine while doing it. Pump is ready every year. I also drain the fuel tank and carb float bowl. The whole operation takes about 10 minutes. By doing this I don’t need to worry about ethanol gas damage. Sunday lunch with Mustie1 !! Fun and instructive at the same time.
You can fix that little ol crack, You can DO IT ! Reading other comments I am not the only one that thinks it would make a good video as well. For a little more time you might be able to fix it and have you a decent pressure washer for the house, I was suprised that you did not already have several already. Thanks for sharing the technique of blowing air through the system to clear remaining water, don't get freezing temps in this part of Texas often but it only takes 1 freeze and a little water to ruin good equipment.
I immediately noticed the bowl, how great is viewer vision😆🤣😆🤣😆🤣. The tempo and speeding up modes you apply are just right in my opinion. As always learned loads. Thanks for sharing. Joe.
I think this would be a perfect candidate for trying to repair by using "No Weld" aluminum welding rods. If not here, I'd like to see you try this approach sometime.
It just amazes me how you manage to just find all this junk just laying around on side of the road….and most look almost new. You must live in a richer area than I do… lol!!
I enjoyed the carb explanaition. I realize that you have done this many times but I understood it better today. We are all here for the wrenchin' but I get a lot out of your explanaitions and theory side. Thank you for making these videos!
Dusty Musti, Thanks for tearing it apart afterward to "see what makes it work." When I was young I did that exact thing all the time. Whenever somebody threw out a lawn mower I took it home and took it all apart just to see what made it work. Then a funny thing happened, I found one mower had a broken this and another had a broken that and guess what? I made one out of many that worked! That was my own very first lawnmower. I believe it was a REO. When I got my first lawn mowing job I shared with my best friend who used his Dad's mower but I had my own mower! How great was that? One time my uncle came over and walked around in my Dad's garage and he said " Ben, you got more lawnmower engines than Carter's got Little Liver Pills." That's how I got started in repairing things. Thanks for running me down memory lane. ben/ michigan
One of the things I found with those rods is if you get the casting hot enough, it will run where you don't want it to. It's fine for welding thin plate like 1/8" anything thicker like a casting takes a LOT of heat to warm it up to melt the rod then it's almost too hot. That's why tig is nice, really hot in a small localized area. I guess with practice you could do it though with the rod.
I really appreciate your knowledge, presentation style, and your channel. I am completing the rebuild of an Ex-cell pressure washer. It has a Honda GX390 engine and an Annovi Reverberi RKV-4G32 pump. Regarding the pump: I replaced pistons, spacers, piston o-rings and nuts, check valves, and unloader o-rings. I had problems with the unloader, the spring was missing. The shaft keyway was also broken, suggesting the pump became difficult to spin. I put a spacer and a shorter main valve spring in the unloader because this unloader and spring are obsolete, and I cannot find a new or used one. The unloader fastening bolts are hollow tubes that bolt in to the manifold. One is 1/2" low pressure side, and 3/8" on high pressure side. These original bolts are steel and extremely corroded. I replaced them with a set of brass ones. I replaced the o-rings on these tubular bolts. I replaced the keyway key. I hooked up the water supply and the unloader leaked at the new tubular mounting bolts. I had crushed the o-ring. It must have slipped out during reassembly. Replaced it. No more leaks. The engine ran for about 5 seconds, then bogged down. The pressure gun trigger was stuck. I pulled very hard on the trigger and water shot out like a rocket. It seems I have too much pressure building up internally. I am researching this problem. I suspect the unloader that was missing a spring may be part of the problem, but not sure. What else can raise the pressure inside the pump? Can the two tubular bolts mounting the unloader be the problem? The 1/2" tubular bolt mounts the low pressure inlet side. The 3/8" bolt mounts the unloader to the high pressure outlet side. These tubular mounting bolts do have orifices. The motor is a Honda GX390. The pump is an Annovi Reverberi RKV4G32. All pump parts are AR parts specified in AR parts breakdown for the pump. The two tubular unloader mounting bolts (Part# AR2121 are"brass"). The original ones were carbon steel. I can't find a reason for this difference, except the brass ones look like a newer design and since they are brass, they should not corrode like the steel ones. The unloader is a VR 3/B. Can you enlighten me about what can make the pressure increase to the point the motor bogs down like this?
Good video as usual. When I get done using mine I blow the hoses out also. I also fill the pump with vinegar and let it sit for a day. Then I run water thru everything. I do this 2 times a year.
I have 2 almost new pressure washers that were curbed in my neighborhood. Total cost or repairs is $24. It was a great surprise that both pumps were not cracked or overheated.
I just fixed the exact same one for my uncle! His son lost some parts of the carb trying to figure it out. Fixed that. Then found out it wasn't pumping. Pulled the pump head off, everything looked OK. Then I pulled the regulator out to find out that the seat had cracked. Simple fix. Works great. Cost less than a new one.
Greetings: I think the draft flow mechanism term you were hunting for was "venturi". Also, the older tire type air valve is called a "schrader valve"; which is also used for automotive air conditioning servicing.
For winterization you can use RV antifreeze. It will not only preserve the pump but also CT’s as a storage lubricant. Get a piece of plastic hose with a garden hose fitting on it. Pull the starter until the discharge is the pink antifreeze.
*** Correction *** Soap Suction port is always on the output side! (Arrow --> ) , the black plastic nipple is the over heat safety valve. this pump is an Annovi Reverberi Even those pump is life time internal oil, you can change it by removing the black plastic bolt and fill with 75-90w Gear oil (2.29oz capacity) Head is replaceable and you can buy separate part to rebuild seal and or check valves
I watch your videos all the time and have learned alot, thank you. Alittle tip I use when i get a rounded out allen, i use a torx that is a bit bigger and knock that in. Works great.
Your video reminds me I need to winterize the pressure washer at work. I run some RV antifreeze through it and the hose and spray gun, seems to work fine for winter storage. We have the same pressure washer at work and it works great. I have a little electric one at home and I just put it in my shop that is heated LOL.
Air flowing across and drawing the fuel is called the venturi effect, the air flowing across creates a low pressure. In this case atmospheric pressure, 14.5 psi, standing on top of the fuel in the float bowl pushes the fuel into the carb passage, there is really no such thing as suction, I know this sounds like a wind bag reply, but it might help others understand how carburetors work.
I have to say, your mechanical skills have improved a lot...over the years. Started on the second pull!!! Pressure Washers kick ass: 1. Don't let them freeze. 2. Don't let them run dry. 3. Don't let them run without the gun nozzle OPEN! ...The pump overheats, even while idling! The "offloader" or pressure relief valve is only a inch or so from the pump. So that tiny amount of water goes around and around...gets hot. Would be an interesting test for some low temperature braze type "alum-o-solder". That's about it. Hey, that was a great video!
I bet, the modern world being as it is, that you can't buy the casting as a spare, or if you can it costs more than the washer. That casting, in bulk, cast, drilled and threaded, would probably cost 100$ Welding might be an option, or drilling, threading and clamping the crack closed.
I was looking at about 26:30 and thinking to myself "that would make for some great tig practice!" I really wish that people would leave things like this out in North London (UK) but these days, if you do that you get hit up for fly tipping instead 😔
Thanks Mustie! Always wanted to crack one of those open and see what makes it tick. Was afraid there was a high pressure spring in there that I’d never get back together right. That really scratched an itch for me. Loved it!
Thanks for showing me how my pump works...I have a high end one and can easily see similarities and material differences...brass being superior me thinks.
I've also bought the whole pumps on Ebay for about $85. They work perfect! I've replaced 3 pumps this year on 3 different "free pressure washers" like this one. I sold each one for $150!
@@troystanley192 Nice scores. I will keep this in mind for the future if I run across any dead pressure washers. Usually here in Idaho they fail because of the same issue in this video they freeze up. The other issue is the overheat easily you can't stop pressure washing and just let it run.
@@troystanley192 I can confirm this. Replaced two pumps on matching yard sale finds. Now both the pops and I have dueling machines. Pretty easy fix for a dumby like me. Three bolts.
@@wildbill23c Same issues here in Ohio. They freeze and bust. The black piece he thought was the soap inlet is actually the thermal relief valve. It has a plastic plug under the black cap that will melt and allow water to flow out the black tip when the pump overheats.
@@bctupper Nice! The only issues I run into sometimes is I have to add about 3 washers between the pump and the pressure washer frame to get the new pump to fit. I still have 5 "free pressure washers" that need pumps or wands and hoses. I should have those all ready for sale in the spring when everyone starts doing their spring cleanup. That's also usually when the free ones come back to me for busted pumps.
Thank you for publishing a project that even you, OH Gifted Fingers can't resserect! After a weekend of plumbing attempts (I didn't know that copper pipe and solder could snicker at you) I sit down to find this latest offering and there you go, admitting mere mortal status as Father Frost won another one. I feel better now.
@@jamesrochester787 taryl dactal here!! Yup hes just as good as mustie1 if ya can look past his dumb fake teeth and hair..lol. It took awhile for me but hes good 👍
I picked one up with a 6.5 Honda 3500 PSI pump ,50FT of hose and you could not turn the engine over. When I pulled the cord it would lift the entire unit. This unit could have only been run ONE time at most. So I took it home pulled the pump thinking it may be frozen up, IT WAS FREE. so i pulled the plug and the engine turned free . So i decided to pull the head. I pulled the Rocker arm cover and one of the puch rods was laying on it's side. The adjustment nut had loosed when it was running and the push rod came off. It must have NOT BEEN TIGHTED right at the FACTORY. WORKS and RUNS GREAT. NICE FREEBEE!
Do a video on that alumiweld rods with a map gas torch and call it " Will it leak " lol. Many it would work or not. But we all could find out together. Ha ha.
Some grinding with a dremel and a good gob of the slow-setting JB-Weld (so it gets into the crack), should fix the crack up nicely, not much to lose really if it just ends up as your own home-use machine... :)
@@ralphsnow2337 thats funny. An $8 tube of JB weld saved me hundreds and saved my entire fishing season. Used it to fix a crack in my lower unit. Still going strong!
If you do order a pump, there are two 3 leg models like that. I think they were identified by a letter suffix on the part number. If you order the wrong one it will fit but the water connections will be on the front of the machine and you can’t turn it around because the spacing of the legs is wrong. The first plastic elbow you showed is the outlet for the “unloader valve” you can hear it cycling when water is connected and on, engine is running, and the trigger if the gun is off. The second was the soap connection, it only pulls soap when the low pressure nozzle is in the gun. It is important to have water to it before starting but you don’t have to squeeze the trigger to crank it, just don’t let it run more than necessary without squeezing the trigger.
perfect candidate for low temp brazing with some alumiweld sticks from the outside .... strip heat locally fill crack off ya go ... done simmler before with a high pressure water pump
I have the same Briggs engine on my Briggs branded pressure washer, heading out to the shed to blow it out with the same fitting that I use to blow out the sprinkler lines, as soon as the video is done. Thanks for the reminder!
Use RV antifreeze for winter storage won’t freeze and keeps stuff lubricated. I’ve used it for boats and RV ‘s never had issues come spring time just my 2 cents.
The way he comes across pressure washers... Anything over $20 is probably considered "Prohibitive". I've got a craftsman pressure washer that simply needs a seal kit. That kit is $60 on its own. Then again, it's a more expensive unit than this one. New pump is over $200. So the cost, without looking it up, could potentially be more than it's worth.
I teplaced the pump assy on my toro about 4 yrs ago. Cheaper than buying pump parts. Still works great. Learned to winterize and replace the prima seals in the carb to fix the surging issues.
A service center would charge more than the unit is worth. Thats the problem with weed wackers. No one even wants to fix them any more. I fix them up and re sell them. I hate seeing them being scrapped.
Wow , every time I see a cheap , simple pressure washer I am blown away . After working at a factory and later a field service tech. on industrial units I an amazed at the super lite duty units . Number one way to destroy any unit is to shut gun off and leave it running . Usually in a matter of minutes it will melt or burn seals on pistons or plungers . Homeowners often leave water in and freeze the pump or unloader valve .
long time subscribers know he drinks coffee from a glass, put a spoon in the glass before the hot liquid the metal takes the shock from the heat so the glass never breaks.
I have a Troy Bilt, similar to that one it froze and had a small Crack I cleaned the housing off and used JB Weld to fill the crack and it works great. It worked before it froze, and now it works fine. The engine a Briggs had more problems, the intake valve guide moved towards the valve head, and held the valve open. Took it to a machine shop, they heated the the head drove out the guide, knurled the guide reheated the head, drove the guide back in, plus did a valve job and it probably runs better now than new
This was a very informative video. You did a good job showing and explaining in detail how this works. It'll be easier for me to troubleshoot and repair my small engine devices. Thanks..
My dad used an old Wisconsin engine with an alternator from an Mercruiser inboard engine he rebuilt to charge the batteries at our rv site that has no power for years. It had a muffler from a Snow Cruiser snowmobile attached to it so it was surprisingly quiet.
I've been watching you now for quite a while, you are luckiest finder of good stuff the ever walk this earth. The junk that is left by the side of the road where I live is certainly headed for the junk yard.
Excellent rework. The next thing you need is a spool aluminum welder heliarc, for small repairs like the crack in that aluminum valve body. I always enjoy-joy your videos. You're a real geru on engines. Bill, from Tn. 🇺🇸
Use a small die grinder or Foredom/Dremel with a 1/8" burr to dig out that crack in the pump housing, and follow up by filling with aluminim brazing rod (Hobart is good, as is the Harbor Freight version). Propane or MAPP will work great. Be sure to remove all rubber/plastic seals from the housing first.
TIG and filler rod will work well too. C'mon--you can save this thing! The pump uses a rotating 'swash plate' to actuate the three pistons. A very simple and efficient way of creating high pressure.
Dear T.D.I.T.C.
👍👌👏 I wanted to comment exactly the same. But fortunately you already did the work. Thx! 😁
This unit should be saved definitely.
Best regards, luck and health.
Project Farm recently compared different aluminum brazing rods. Harbor Freight brand actually came out real good. Let's see a real world example Mustie!
@@ozarkarky
👍👌👏 Yes please.
I agree........Come on Mustie......time to learn to braze or tig.....lol.....you can do it !!!!
@@robbusheay4258
👍👌👏
I watch all your videos because you are the best,nothing will stop you,you seem like a nice guy too,keep it up.
Mustie! I was able to diagnose and fix my non-running log splitter yesterday because of watching videos like yours. I specifically remember feeling completely in the dark a few years ago trying to fix a lawnmower that wouldn’t start. I just had no idea what I was looking at. Feels really good to understand how these machines work. Thanks for the awesome content. Makes a big difference for people like me.
Great to hear!
Yeah totally agree bought a Hitachi leaf blower off ebay with no start issues stripped and cleaned the carb running great back on ebay 100% profit
I gave this comment a thumbs up. I remember the first time I tore a small engine down and reassembled it. Made me feel so proud that it ran again. 2nd best feeling a 12 year old boy can have.
My confidence and knowledge grows with every Mustie1 video I watch.
Meeee 2!
My Dad could fix any small engine, from a chainsaw to an outboard motor! (weed-eaters hadn't been invented for that many years, for him to have worked on them yet). I never understood how it worked, but I'd watch him re-make parts. He would draw on gasket paper and have me to cut them out for him.
My best friend was a retired FireFighter and his pension wasn't enough to live on so he opened a Weed-Eater/Lawnmower shop by his home. He had a constant inflow of customers...daily. I could fight my machine...pull on the cord till my arm was like a wet noodle, and take the machine to him and he would have it running in less than 5 minutes! & Cleaned up, too!
Watching this fellows videos make it make since!!! It brings memories back of my Dad & my friend,...working on the machines. This guy KNOWS what he's doing...like in a fluid manner...he knows what each component does and what makes it tick...and he has the witt about him, that helps him communicate, to us his knowledge! Wow...he's good!
MUSTIE!! This past summer I was able to flip so many mowers and snowblowers! Thanks to your videos I made over 300 dollars just selling push and self propelled mowers. I am gonna get a new air compressor now because my 3 gallon one just won’t cut it. Thank you for all of your free educational content.
I found this exact pressure washer thrown out last year and I was able to fixed it from watching your videos. You the man Mustie!
I found a 22" toro walk behind a couple months ago. Gave it the old tug test on the curb. I got it home, pulled it out of the car, cleaned the jets, and got it running before I even went in the house lol.
You can get the pump on ebay fairly cheap I got 1for 10 dollars
Thanks for another Sunday treat and a timely reminder of how store stuff safe for the winter. Thanks again from the UK, stay safe.
I’m answered a Craigslist ad with the same pressure washer, a 3600 watt generator, and two electric motors; all for $50.00. The pump on the pressure washer was broken in two places with pump housing pieces missing, a non-starter. I pulled the engine and installed it on a 22” Ariens walk-behind weed eaters. After cleaning the carb the engine fired right away but was revving way too high. I could slow the motor by moving the governor arm but it would max out as soon as I let it go; no governor control. I removed the engine, drained the oil, and removed the sump cover, sure enough the governor had come apart. I simply removed all of the governor parts and pieces using a magnet in all the nooks and crannies, replaced the oil slinger, and bolted up the sup cover. Once the engine was reinstalled on the weed eater I installed a throttle control in place of the governor and fired it up. What a beast, 7.75 horsepower, weeds don’t stand a chance! Darlington, South Carolina
@@bluejar5614 I’m the guy who always thinks of those things afterwards...
Hi, After reading your post I came to the conclusion that my engine (same as the one in this video) may be having a broken governor? I was wondering if your old engine was difficult to remove from the Ariens weed eater? I have an Ariens leaf vacuum that is making it impossible for me to remove it from the impeller.
Please let me know if you have any tips to remove the engine's shaft from the impeller?
@@georgesanchez9971 The Tecumseh engine had three bolts securing the engine to the deck. Once I had removed the drive belt and the three bolts, the engine lifted off easily as the drive pulley is a smaller diameter than the opening in the deck. I removed the bold and washer securing the drive pulley to the motor shaft but had to resort to using a gear puller to get the pulley off. I’m not sure how the impeller is secured to the engine shaft on your vacuum but I would think it has a bolt and is keyed to the shaft. Try Googling for an Ariens service manual using the model number of your vacuum.
@@williamlott7612 Thanks for getting back. You are correct the impeller is secured to the engine's shaft by a bolt and keyed to the shaft. I did try to contact Ariens several times. In my last attempt, I was able to speak to a service rep, but they were of no help. Their suggestion was for me to take the vacuum to an authorized dealer. I did get a hand of the owner's manual and parts but I am still looking for the service manual. In my view, this style of vacuum is very similar to the newer billy goat's design. I have been also trying to find their service manual. I just do not want to bend the impeller and throw out of balance.
@@georgesanchez9971 Are there any threaded bolt holes in the impeller near the shaft penetration?
Mustie, I've started buying ethanol free gas for all my yard equipment, they're running better than ever now. Thanks for all the lessons of no-start, bad gas carbs you've worked on in the past. You ROCK !
The brass part on the pump is the unloader valve. Usually when they fail, the engine will run and spray normally, but the engine will stall when you release the trigger. The unloader takes the high pressure output and circulates it back to the inlet
Most of the time on the Easier unloader valves like this one has, it's best To just Take it out of the pump housing and clean the the end of it, that goes inside of the pump, it's also Recommend not to adjust the factory set adjustments on the unloader valve... Most of the time a Small piece of debris is what causes the unloader valve to not function properly...
Worst case scenario, you take it to a welding shop to get TIG welded. The low temp brazing rod approach the other brothers mentioned is also a good way to fix it. The pump is definitely saveable. Thanks again for the great vids. Rev. D.
Mustie1's new video pops up. my thoughts - please be a small engine pressure washer not electric, please please please and volia! Your small engine repair videos are the best on youtube, I can't wait to watch it! Lots of people do restore videos, but they are silent and i get bored so quickly. It's your personality and charisma that really makes your videos so good. I feel like you are bringing us along every time and thats awesome.
You always work your magic!.......so relaxing to watch......... I even learned a bit from you on your last Pressure washer.......fixed my own.....thank you again!
Nice Mustie. This was like a back to basics carb workings vid. I was one of those guys who let the pump freeze over last winter. I had to bite the bullet and buy a $70 ebay pump. Slapped it on and I was up and running again. Great vid as always.
👍Sometimes ya win, other times ya lose. Neighbor gave me his 1yr old Pres washer. Said it stopped working. He bought another "throw-away"- When I finally got to it I ONLY found fuel shut off valve in OFF position. When I saw the valve I said, "no way could it be this easy"....Worked fine after turning fuel ON 😂😂😂👍
Yes, I told him. (He's embarrassed) He didn't want back. It sold quickly.
Good video M!
Briggs Engine Tip that MAY be helpful.
I have repaired 100's of Briggs engines. The top problem (not the problem on this engine) I have found with most of them that don't want to start and stay running (with this style of bowl nut/metering valve) is that they get clogged up with debris from the fuel tank.
Note: ONE grain of sand will clog the metering jet and cause the engine to starve for fuel and either not run at all or perform poorly due to lack of proper fuel flow. Just blowing air through it will not always show a clogged metering jet.
1: I always clean and rinse the fuel tank.
2: I visually make sure you can see through the cross hole in the bowl nut.
3: I rinse the cross hole with brake clean and then block off one side of the cross hole and run some more brake clean through the open side of the cross hole to ensure that fuel will actually travel through the cross hole and up through the metering jet. If the brake clean doesn't provide a nice flow of fluid out the center hole in the end of the bowl nut/metering valve you may have to find a small piece of wire (i.e. like you find on you loaf of bread) and remove the colored plastic from the wire. Insert the wire down the center hole to clear any debris from the metering jet. After the wire is inserted you should be able to see it bottom out on the inside of the cross hole. Be careful that the cleaning wire is not to large and not to force it into the jet hole as it may enlarge the jet hole and ruin the proper fuel delivery ratio to the engine.
John
Good tips! I usually get a rebuild kit ir just replace the carburetor. I have found a few carburetors with the center metering hole completely blocked. I have micro drill bits that can usually reopen those. The problem I find is the internal passages blocked or extreme corrosion due to water egress. Those pressure washers ingest water easily.
@@scottfirman Great to see another RC guy in the mix. I enjoyed that hobby for about 50 years. Started in 1968 and sold all my stuff back in 2018. Did everything from sport plane flying to RC helicopters and really enjoyed the journey.
Don't leave us hanging like that Mustie. We won't be happy without at least an attempt to fix that leak. Keep up the great work 👍
You might be able to fix that crack using low temperature ali' brazing rod, I've managed to fix a few things with this stuff! You would need to 'vee' out the crack then heat it up with a MAP gas torch then apply the rod. It would make for a good video. In fact where the crack is located is already forming a vee anyway.
I was thinking the same thing
@@rodashford1151 me too.
tig weld too
@@M.TTT. mig weld low heat, right wire ? Is it worth it.hours $ $
@@hughmc5419 tig probably easier with aluminum, but I have no experience with it, looked like a small crack. Mig aluminum is a pita. But yeah, new pumps only 75 dollhairs or so...good reason to tell the wife you need a new welder though 🤔😂
I have to wonder how many times, you've picked up something off the curb of someone who watches your videos and they go "Seriously that's all it was!" 😆
OR on the other side...someone like me..who sees him go thru all of that and not a working Power Washer...guess before I work on the carb, I had better check for leaks...it did get to 31 below zero this winter and my Garage is not heated. STILL I GREATLY APPRECIATE THE TIME YOU WENT TO and I am hitting SUBSCRIBE!
It's only only if you know what only is. Like the old joke all you did was hit it. Yeah but knowing where to hit it and how hard is the trick.
@@johngranoski4440 sometimes you just need to have life experiences... Even if it's just you chasing your tail. Acting like your time is too precious to waste
@@TingTingalingy Understood and AGREED!
Pump heads are available for about $70. Kind of kills the “free” part but still a good deal for a good running pressure washer.
Yes, depending on the HP of the engine it is possible to upgrade the pump to 3200 psi from the original 2300. At that point the pressure washer is much more useable for heavy duty applications. With the $70 outlay, that pressure washer becomes a beast!
The engine seems like it runs good so 70 bucks for a new pump is still a good deal much cheaper than a new one. I found one with a split pump about 4 years ago and found a replacement pump on Amazon for 79 bucks. Mine is a Simpson and I just used it for it's 4th summer so not bad for 79 bucks.
Yeah still come out a winner,agreed!
Damn accessories like the lance & pressure hose costs more,believe it or not 😤
He will find the part this week on the curb.
@@cheeseburger9232 probably so
Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU!! Love your videos and step by step explanations. I was able to fix a power washer for a friend. It had been sitting for years and would not start. The gas went bad and the clogged all the port holes. Your video has kept another fine working piece of machinery out of a landfill, and you saved them tons of money. Cheers! Keep up the great work.
The "wobble cam" is called a swash plate.
The cracked pump housing... a TIG welder will fix that.
yeah i was hoping that he would try...
I was hoping for a weld fix myself.....If not $73 from Amazon gets you a new pump and it’s fixed.
Can you tig weld that zinc junk? That housing is zinc, right? or not?
Some of them are zinc pot metal while the more expensive brands often use an aluminum alloy of one type or another which is easily tig welded..
@@trevorjameson3213 there's zinc in the alloy. And God knows what else too. Whatever was cheap in the Chinese scrapyard that day I'm sure.
I picked up a pressure washer this summer for $20. The lady told me the pump was no good. I took a chance on it only because it wasn't seized up. So I got it home, put some gas in it and much to my shock it started right up. All I did was change the sparkplug and a new fuel line (which is why the tank was empty and probably saved the carb). But sure enough the thing would not pressurize. So I tore it apart and figured I'd just grab a replacement pump off ebay. But wouldn't you know the thing had a hex driven pump. The crank didn't have a keyway on it, just a weird hex drive, and of course they no longer made that pump. And the rebuild kit was like $140. Not wanting to spend that much I just tore the whole pump apart and replaced the check valves and the spill valve. I never would have been able to do all that without watching your videos and learning so much from you. So thanks very much and keep them coming. Have a good one
I was thinking maybe braze the pump, or use some of that aluminum aloy rod and use a propane torch to seal that crack
That would be a good video.
Title could be " can we stop the leak"
Lol
@@RANDALLOLOGY Blue Demon rods......hmmm its a thin part i'd be tempted to use some JB weld before trying heat that said im sure mustie has a tig!
Yea a zinc alloy brazing rod repair would work.
@@tollietime I've used JB Weld for years; it even worked to repair my tennis shoes.
Or if you could get to the end of the pipe and inset a thin copper or alloy tube inside
I am a computer geek and on a day to day basis, I really don't care about engines... But then mustie comes in on Sunday and I'm drawn in and my brain says show me more. Due to this channel, my Sundays start with mustie and a large cup of coffee. A great way to start my Sunday. Keep up the great work mustie.
I winterize my pump by shooting some kind of fluid from a pressurized can. It comes with the fitting to match the hose inlet fitting. It blows out the water and leaves a lube film inside. I have to remind myself to stay away from the outlet. I gently turn the engine while doing it. Pump is ready every year. I also drain the fuel tank and carb float bowl. The whole operation takes about 10 minutes. By doing this I don’t need to worry about ethanol gas damage.
Sunday lunch with Mustie1 !! Fun and instructive at the same time.
Same thing happened to mine, I pulled the pump apart and tig welded the crack at work, that was five years ago and it's still working fine, simple fix
Was I the only one expecting some aluminium welding? 🤔 Yet again nicely explained, thanks 😁. Regards Tiny, Lincolnshire, UK 🇬🇧
My thoughts entirely, greetings from East Yorks. J.
This is why i like mustie1 vids. He actually takes the time to show and explain how things work.
I am so glad that where I live winters are mild.
You can fix that little ol crack, You can DO IT !
Reading other comments I am not the only one that thinks it would make a good video as well.
For a little more time you might be able to fix it and have you a decent pressure washer for the house, I was suprised that you did not already have several already.
Thanks for sharing the technique of blowing air through the system to clear remaining water, don't get freezing temps in this part of Texas often but it only takes 1 freeze and a little water to ruin good equipment.
Harbor freight has aluminum braising rods that really do work that’s what I would do to fix the pump
I immediately noticed the bowl, how great is viewer vision😆🤣😆🤣😆🤣. The tempo and speeding up modes you apply are just right in my opinion. As always learned loads. Thanks for sharing. Joe.
I think this would be a perfect candidate for trying to repair by using "No Weld" aluminum welding rods. If not here, I'd like to see you try this approach sometime.
I learned more about power equipment carbs from this video than in my 30 years of life. I humbly thank you friend!
Glad to help!
It just amazes me how you manage to just find all this junk just laying around on side of the road….and most look almost new.
You must live in a richer area than I do… lol!!
I enjoyed the carb explanaition. I realize that you have done this many times but I understood it better today. We are all here for the wrenchin' but I get a lot out of your explanaitions and theory side. Thank you for making these videos!
do I hear muties up for a tig brazing attempt.
Dusty Musti, Thanks for tearing it apart afterward to "see what makes it work." When I was young I did that exact thing all the time. Whenever somebody threw out a lawn mower I took it home and took it all apart just to see what made it work. Then a funny thing happened, I found one mower had a broken this and another had a broken that and guess what? I made one out of many that worked! That was my own very first lawnmower. I believe it was a REO. When I got my first lawn mowing job I shared with my best friend who used his Dad's mower but I had my own mower! How great was that? One time my uncle came over and walked around in my Dad's garage and he said " Ben, you got more lawnmower engines than Carter's got Little Liver Pills." That's how I got started in repairing things. Thanks for running me down memory lane. ben/ michigan
Hit the manifold with the MIG and seal it up? Aluminiweld hobart rod?
Flex seal tape
One of the things I found with those rods is if you get the casting hot enough, it will run where you don't want it to. It's fine for welding thin plate like 1/8" anything thicker like a casting takes a LOT of heat to warm it up to melt the rod then it's almost too hot. That's why tig is nice, really hot in a small localized area.
I guess with practice you could do it though with the rod.
Fiiiiiiiiiiber fix!
@@chemmerling n
I really appreciate your knowledge, presentation style, and your channel.
I am completing the rebuild of an Ex-cell pressure washer. It has a Honda GX390 engine and an Annovi Reverberi RKV-4G32 pump.
Regarding the pump:
I replaced pistons, spacers, piston o-rings and nuts, check valves, and unloader o-rings. I had problems with the unloader, the spring was missing. The shaft keyway was also broken, suggesting the pump became difficult to spin. I put a spacer and a shorter main valve spring in the unloader because this unloader and spring are obsolete, and I cannot find a new or used one.
The unloader fastening bolts are hollow tubes that bolt in to the manifold. One is 1/2" low pressure side, and 3/8" on high pressure side. These original bolts are steel and extremely corroded. I replaced them with a set of brass ones. I replaced the o-rings on these tubular bolts. I replaced the keyway key.
I hooked up the water supply and the unloader leaked at the new tubular mounting bolts. I had crushed the o-ring. It must have slipped out during reassembly.
Replaced it. No more leaks. The engine ran for about 5 seconds, then bogged down. The pressure gun trigger was stuck. I pulled very hard on the trigger and water shot out like a rocket.
It seems I have too much pressure building up internally. I am researching this problem. I suspect the unloader that was missing a spring may be part of the problem, but not sure.
What else can raise the pressure inside the pump? Can the two tubular bolts mounting the unloader be the problem? The 1/2" tubular bolt mounts the low pressure inlet side. The 3/8" bolt mounts the unloader to the high pressure outlet side. These tubular mounting bolts do have orifices.
The motor is a Honda GX390. The pump is an Annovi Reverberi RKV4G32. All pump parts are AR parts specified in AR parts breakdown for the pump. The two tubular unloader mounting bolts (Part# AR2121 are"brass"). The original ones were carbon steel. I can't find a reason for this difference, except the brass ones look like a newer design and since they are brass, they should not corrode like the steel ones. The unloader is a VR 3/B.
Can you enlighten me about what can make the pressure increase to the point the motor bogs down like this?
"Some of you have big heads".
Hat size 8-1/4, and yes I am proud of my Scottish heritage.
Lol I think I'm the same size, How do you find hats that fit??
@@lrrowley usually I can’t.
@@Scodiddly same 😂😂
@@lrrowley I don't have many hats but the ones that came from New Era Cap co fit well in 8¼.
good tip on the winterizing adapter. Amazon sells exactly what you described. I need to take care of that before it gets cold here.
There are replacement pumps on-line around $70. Probably worth it to replace since rest of the pressure washer is in great shape.
Good video as usual. When I get done using mine I blow the hoses out also. I also fill the pump with vinegar and let it sit for a day. Then I run water thru everything. I do this 2 times a year.
I’m guessing Yes.
Wrong, the water pump is usually cost prohibitive. He will use it for parts.
I'm guessing yes, that Mustie is right
I have 2 almost new pressure washers that were curbed in my neighborhood. Total cost or repairs is $24. It was a great surprise that both pumps were not cracked or overheated.
The ending summed how everyone feels using a pressure washer perfectly.
I just fixed the exact same one for my uncle!
His son lost some parts of the carb trying to figure it out. Fixed that. Then found out it wasn't pumping. Pulled the pump head off, everything looked OK. Then I pulled the regulator out to find out that the seat had cracked. Simple fix. Works great. Cost less than a new one.
Greetings: I think the draft flow mechanism term you were hunting for was "venturi".
Also, the older tire type air valve is called a "schrader valve"; which is also used for automotive air conditioning servicing.
For winterization you can use RV antifreeze. It will not only preserve the pump but also CT’s as a storage lubricant. Get a piece of plastic hose with a garden hose fitting on it. Pull the starter until the discharge is the pink antifreeze.
*** Correction ***
Soap Suction port is always on the output side! (Arrow --> ) , the black plastic nipple is the over heat safety valve.
this pump is an Annovi Reverberi
Even those pump is life time internal oil, you can change it by removing the black plastic bolt and fill with 75-90w Gear oil (2.29oz capacity)
Head is replaceable and you can buy separate part to rebuild seal and or check valves
I watch your videos all the time and have learned alot, thank you. Alittle tip I use when i get a rounded out allen, i use a torx that is a bit bigger and knock that in. Works great.
Who else enjoys waking up at 5 am MDT on Sunday to check for new Mustie1 content?
I do. 4am PDT. Gets my Sunday off to a good start.
Great video. I just trash found a pressure washer and now I know how to do a pre-start up inspection and carb cleaning. Thanks
Yep, I would TIG weld it. That’s what I do for a living and I’m known for fixing things that others wouldn’t 😉
Your video reminds me I need to winterize the pressure washer at work. I run some RV antifreeze through it and the hose and spray gun, seems to work fine for winter storage. We have the same pressure washer at work and it works great. I have a little electric one at home and I just put it in my shop that is heated LOL.
Air flowing across and drawing the fuel is called the venturi effect, the air flowing across creates a low pressure. In this case atmospheric pressure, 14.5 psi, standing on top of the fuel in the float bowl pushes the fuel into the carb passage, there is really no such thing as suction, I know this sounds like a wind bag reply, but it might help others understand how carburetors work.
I have to say, your mechanical skills have improved a lot...over the years. Started on the second pull!!! Pressure Washers kick ass: 1. Don't let them freeze. 2. Don't let them run dry. 3. Don't let them run without the gun nozzle OPEN! ...The pump overheats, even while idling! The "offloader" or pressure relief valve is only a inch or so from the pump. So that tiny amount of water goes around and around...gets hot. Would be an interesting test for some low temperature braze type "alum-o-solder". That's about it. Hey, that was a great video!
have someone tig weld the crack, it would be a alloy housing
I bet, the modern world being as it is, that you can't buy the casting as a spare, or if you can it costs more than the washer.
That casting, in bulk, cast, drilled and threaded, would probably cost 100$
Welding might be an option, or drilling, threading and clamping the crack closed.
I was looking at about 26:30 and thinking to myself "that would make for some great tig practice!" I really wish that people would leave things like this out in North London (UK) but these days, if you do that you get hit up for fly tipping instead 😔
I was going to say weld (tig) or braise?
There are awesome electrodes for stick welding stuff like this these days
One of those soft alloy rods would weld it with a little gas.
Thanks Mustie! Always wanted to crack one of those open and see what makes it tick. Was afraid there was a high pressure spring in there that I’d never get back together right. That really scratched an itch for me. Loved it!
We all know this is just the teaser video. Darren is editing the actual repair and welding follow up video as we read this!
Tricky Mustie1 if you're right ! 🤣
Or building a new pump out of spare parts from his stash!
Or this is to distract us while he works on the project he mentioned has sat for over a year and we have not seen
Weld the crack?
"Read in the voice of Rod serling"Plot twist this is the project been sitting for over a year we have not seen yet
Thanks for showing me how my pump works...I have a high end one and can easily see similarities and material differences...brass being superior me thinks.
Those pump heads are very cheap. I bought one just like that for $20 and replaced the pump head.
I've also bought the whole pumps on Ebay for about $85. They work perfect! I've replaced 3 pumps this year on 3 different "free pressure washers" like this one. I sold each one for $150!
@@troystanley192 Nice scores. I will keep this in mind for the future if I run across any dead pressure washers. Usually here in Idaho they fail because of the same issue in this video they freeze up. The other issue is the overheat easily you can't stop pressure washing and just let it run.
@@troystanley192 I can confirm this. Replaced two pumps on matching yard sale finds. Now both the pops and I have dueling machines. Pretty easy fix for a dumby like me. Three bolts.
@@wildbill23c Same issues here in Ohio. They freeze and bust. The black piece he thought was the soap inlet is actually the thermal relief valve. It has a plastic plug under the black cap that will melt and allow water to flow out the black tip when the pump overheats.
@@bctupper Nice! The only issues I run into sometimes is I have to add about 3 washers between the pump and the pressure washer frame to get the new pump to fit. I still have 5 "free pressure washers" that need pumps or wands and hoses. I should have those all ready for sale in the spring when everyone starts doing their spring cleanup. That's also usually when the free ones come back to me for busted pumps.
Thank you for publishing a project that even you, OH Gifted Fingers can't resserect! After a weekend of plumbing attempts (I didn't know that copper pipe and solder could snicker at you) I sit down to find this latest offering and there you go, admitting mere mortal status as Father Frost won another one. I feel better now.
Only 38 mins Mustie1, i'm not sure this is enough for my fix. I may have to do some more via
Machinery Restorer ;)
Or Tarl Fixes All.
@@jamesrochester787 taryl dactal here!! Yup hes just as good as mustie1 if ya can look past his dumb fake teeth and hair..lol. It took awhile for me but hes good 👍
@@leeharris3061 I fast forward through that stuff to get to the “good bits”. Put drain plugs in my garden tractor yesterday courtesy of Taryl.
I picked one up with a 6.5 Honda 3500 PSI pump ,50FT of hose and you could not turn the engine over. When I pulled the cord it would lift the entire unit. This unit could have only been run ONE time at most. So I took it home pulled the pump thinking it may be frozen up, IT WAS FREE. so i pulled the plug and the engine turned free . So i decided to pull the head. I pulled the Rocker arm cover and one of the puch rods was laying on it's side. The adjustment nut had loosed when it was running and the push rod came off. It must have NOT BEEN TIGHTED right at the FACTORY. WORKS and RUNS GREAT. NICE FREEBEE!
Do a video on that alumiweld rods with a map gas torch and call it
" Will it leak " lol. Many it would work or not. But we all could find out together. Ha ha.
Nice way to enjoy my morning. Thank you Mustie1.
I await your next project.
Thanks for reminding me it's time to bring the pressure washer out of the garage and put it in the basement before it gets too cold.
It's amazing how much we are alike. When I have to close up a fuel line, I go straight for the vice grips, lol.
Mustie1: "Some of you got big heads"
Me: "Hey, I resemble that remark!"
Just used the video to fix my washer. Thanks so much, running perfect now.
Yep the aluminum welding rod would fix it, Would make a good video.
Another vote here for aluminum brazing rod repair. Could be a great teaching opportunity.
What about just put a string of solder over the crack, run a blowtorch by it and sweat it into the crack, not sure if can handle the pressure though.
Thanks for making this Video, just got a pressure washer just like that .It reminded me to clean the water out. May of just saved the pump! GOD Bless!
Some grinding with a dremel and a good gob of the slow-setting JB-Weld (so it gets into the crack), should fix the crack up nicely, not much to lose really if it just ends up as your own home-use machine... :)
That's not going to hold up to the pressure, tig welding would be the way to go
Please don't use J B weld that stuff is a waste of time and money
@@ralphsnow2337 thats funny. An $8 tube of JB weld saved me hundreds and saved my entire fishing season. Used it to fix a crack in my lower unit. Still going strong!
If you do order a pump, there are two 3 leg models like that. I think they were identified by a letter suffix on the part number. If you order the wrong one it will fit but the water connections will be on the front of the machine and you can’t turn it around because the spacing of the legs is wrong. The first plastic elbow you showed is the outlet for the “unloader valve” you can hear it cycling when water is connected and on, engine is running, and the trigger if the gun is off. The second was the soap connection, it only pulls soap when the low pressure nozzle is in the gun. It is important to have water to it before starting but you don’t have to squeeze the trigger to crank it, just don’t let it run more than necessary without squeezing the trigger.
perfect candidate for low temp brazing with some alumiweld sticks from the outside .... strip heat locally fill crack off ya go ... done simmler before with a high pressure water pump
I have the same Briggs engine on my Briggs branded pressure washer, heading out to the shed to blow it out with the same fitting that I use to blow out the sprinkler lines, as soon as the video is done. Thanks for the reminder!
just weld the damn thing. (pump was made in 2013)
First pressure washer I've seen with a cup holder. Handy.
LOL I'm guessing the cup holder is for soap?
Beer!
More like Jim Beam bottle
No, its for the mobile phone!
Use RV antifreeze for winter storage won’t freeze and keeps stuff lubricated. I’ve used it for boats and RV ‘s never had issues come spring time just my 2 cents.
I’m curious, what does everyone consider “cost prohibitive “? I replaced one of those pumps last year for $63 all in.
The way he comes across pressure washers... Anything over $20 is probably considered "Prohibitive". I've got a craftsman pressure washer that simply needs a seal kit. That kit is $60 on its own. Then again, it's a more expensive unit than this one. New pump is over $200. So the cost, without looking it up, could potentially be more than it's worth.
I teplaced the pump assy on my toro about 4 yrs ago. Cheaper than buying pump parts. Still works great. Learned to winterize and replace the prima seals in the carb to fix the surging issues.
A service center would charge more than the unit is worth. Thats the problem with weed wackers. No one even wants to fix them any more. I fix them up and re sell them. I hate seeing them being scrapped.
These trash picked small engine repair videos are the best.
A shout out to the big head posse!
Wow , every time I see a cheap , simple pressure washer I am blown away . After working at a factory and later a field service tech. on industrial units I an amazed at the super lite duty units . Number one way to destroy any unit is to shut gun off and leave it running . Usually in a matter of minutes it will melt or burn seals on pistons or plungers . Homeowners often leave water in and freeze the pump or unloader valve .
Have you ever drank from the wrong mug?
Only once!
Haha I saw him move it and thought “don’t want to drink the wrong one”
long time subscribers know he drinks coffee from a glass, put a spoon in the glass before the hot liquid the metal takes the shock from the heat so the glass never breaks.
@@frankdeegan8974 Congrats on being a long time subscriber
I have a Troy Bilt, similar to that one it froze and had a small Crack I cleaned the housing off and used JB Weld to fill the crack and it works great. It worked before it froze, and now it works fine. The engine a Briggs had more problems, the intake valve guide moved towards the valve head, and held the valve open. Took it to a machine shop, they heated the the head drove out the guide, knurled the guide reheated the head, drove the guide back in, plus did a valve job and it probably runs better now than new
The second plug removed is the drain for winter
Nope, incorrectamundo... called an easy start plug.. according to the manual...
This was a very informative video. You did a good job showing and explaining in detail how this works. It'll be easier for me to troubleshoot and repair my small engine devices. Thanks..
Add a car alternator and you have a speedy battery charger, ideal for the cars you drag in lol
They sold a generator that used that same engine and frame set-up.
@@Blazer02LS Perhaps i'm not so mad after all lol.
Using the same frame and motor for more than just a pressure washer makes sense.
My dad used an old Wisconsin engine with an alternator from an Mercruiser inboard engine he rebuilt to charge the batteries at our rv site that has no power for years. It had a muffler from a Snow Cruiser snowmobile attached to it so it was surprisingly quiet.
@@gord7025 that sounds like a very handy fast charger, quality diy :-D
Yoyoyo! good morning my british man!
I've been watching you now for quite a while, you are luckiest finder of good stuff the ever walk this earth. The junk that is left by the side of the road where I live is certainly headed for the junk yard.
In winter where I live the temperature drops dramatically to +24 degrees C.....brrrrrrr
@@shitloveaduck Believe it or not, I do miss those cold sunny days of the UK winter, so I am jealous too :)
The ten seconds beginning from 29:21 are a good way of explaining the USA's position on using the metric system. This should be a meme.
New pumps aren’t that expensive to replace the bad one.
Best video fix of any I’ve seen!
Engine has it's own flywheel unlike a lawnmower engine. Lawnmower engines will not run without a blade for the flywheel.
Excellent rework. The next thing you need is a spool aluminum welder heliarc, for small repairs like the crack in that aluminum valve body.
I always enjoy-joy your videos. You're a real geru on engines.
Bill, from Tn. 🇺🇸