Just started this kit. Many thanks for your review, particularly with regards the water pump. Two hours of head scratching, and searching photos on the interweb, trying to work out its location. Your clear description confirmed my assessment - fit it last using the pulley system as the guide!
Mandy, Glad it helped! We're here to inform and inspire. Thanks for watching and please subscribe if you haven't already, to help us continue our mission to inspire more modelers! -Doug
That turned out really good for a old truck my friend, I will be looking out for that one, nice build very well detailed and I like the blue and white u did it in.
Nice job on the Dodge truck build. I built mine when they first came out. I must admit it was a challenge for me. but I still have it setting around. Thanks for sharing, Doug.
I built this one years ago when it was an original release. I'll have to see if I can find it in my junkyard. My mom had a way of thinning my collection by dusting them right off in the floor. Yikes! Nice job!
Just Finished, apart from a few of the fragile bits which will be added after painting. Not the easiest of kits but very satisfying. I prefer to build the whole kit then spray paint, which tends to require some of the construction to be modified so that sub assemblies can be removed. Mods so far. The Trailer tank was modified around the join so that the waist band overlapped strengthening the assembly. This meant the I girders needed a little tweaking with a file. The Trailer bogie is screwed to the tank rather than glued using 8BA screws. Cab tilting has been achieved by drilling the pivots with a 0.5 mm drill through the triangular pivot plates and pivot brackets. Lills Pins (0.5mm dress making pins) replacing the nibs, which were filed off. The pins are removable so whole cab can be taken off. The Cab has been fixed to the floor assembly using 8BA screws and Lills Pins. Again this allows the sections to be separated for the spray painting process. One surprising thing that occurred, by accident, was that on assembling the door pivot plates the section inside the cab was a interference fit between the front of the cab (bulkhead) and upright panel of the floor assembly. This allowed me to hold it in place whilst glueing the doors, suitably strengthened with Lills pins, in place against the door plate. The pivot assembly just snaps between the bulkhead and floor assembly but continues to be removable for painting. Design or pure luck???????? The front Mudguard dowels have been replaced with 2.5mm brass rod turned down at the end to 1mm to fit in holes drilled into the edge of the mudguard and super glued in. These are an interference fit into the holes in the chassis . Again this aids painting and prevents accidental damage whilst handling as they can be removed. The rear mud flaps have been screwed to 2mm brass tube with 10BA screws. 10 BA studding soldered into the end of the tube and this allows the flaps to be bolted through the frame between the main spring and helper spring mouldings. As mentioned previously all wheels are removable and the front wheels are poseable. To some this might seem a lot of faff or fiddle but I do love a challenge. I do hope this gives people some ideas on how others attack some of the problems with assembly.
Mandy, That's quite an ambitious project! I can see that your emphasis is on building modules that can be disassembled for the purpose of painting after assembly and you use some rigorous methods to accomplish that. It's a very interesting approach. Thanks for sharing and if you find our channel helpful, please subscribe if you haven't already, to help us continue our mission to inspire more modelers! -Doug!
@@RightOnReplicas Thanks. One question. I use rattle cans whenever possible but also use an airbrush and hand painting for small parts. Based in the UK, I note we don't seem to have the variety of aftermarket parts that the US has (going on You Tube clips). Certainly in the Pant department choice is less broad. Any thoughts?
Mandy, I've heard from others in EU and AUS that have said the same thing, so I'm inclined to agree that there's less of a market in other areas. Thanks for sharing! -Doug
Once again your Video to the rescue. The front stub axles protrude too far through the wheels - confirmed by the Vid. Have fixed the Stub Axles to the Axle Beam using 14BA screws so that the assembly can turn and steer. Am going to fix the rear wheels to the Diff using 10BA screws and washers, and will turn up a Top Hat, in Brass, to fix the Front Wheels to the Stub Axles allowing rotation. Thanks again for your help.
Mandy, Those are some ambitious mods. Keep up the good work! Thanks for watching and please subscribe if you haven't already, to help us continue our mission to inspire more modelers! -Doug
@@RightOnReplicas Mods made. Front axle steers, and wheels rotate front and rear. Had to chop off the rear axle stubs (Too flimsy) and use 85 x 3.2mm brass, drilled and threaded, to produce axle stubs.
I cut the motor off the trans. And I had a hemi laying around. So i cut the trans off of it to. I put a hemi in my truck. Im not done yet but working on it.
Just a hint - I fitted my tyres to the Rims after dropping them in "just boiled" water. Softened them up enough to allow them to slide onto the rims and, when cooled, a shrink fit!
Ken, depends on color. For "window tint" you can use Tamiya's Smoke, X19, thinned. The more layers, the darker it will be. Though I've not tried it (yet), thinned Tamiya Clear Yellow, Orange, Red, or Green could/should give the same affect.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Just started this kit.
Many thanks for your review, particularly with regards the water pump. Two hours of head scratching, and searching photos on the interweb, trying to work out its location. Your clear description confirmed my assessment - fit it last using the pulley system as the guide!
Mandy, Glad it helped! We're here to inform and inspire. Thanks for watching and please subscribe if you haven't already, to help us continue our mission to inspire more modelers! -Doug
The 1st model I ever built..54 years ago. Found it in an old Kressky's. Pre
K Mart.
Thanks for sharing. I remember Kresge's too! Thanks for watching and please subscribe if you haven't already to help us reach more modelers! -Doug
You made a difficult kit look easy. Great job!
Thanks John, That's nice of you to say! Thanks for the watching and please subscribe if you haven't already to help us reach more modelers! -Doug
That turned out really good for a old truck my friend, I will be looking out for that one, nice build very well detailed and I like the blue and white u did it in.
Glad you like it Troy! -Doug
Nice job on the Dodge truck build. I built mine when they first came out. I must admit it was a challenge for me. but I still have it setting around. Thanks for sharing, Doug.
Clarence, Thanks for sharing and thanks for watching and please subscribe if you haven't already to help us reach more modelers! -Doug
I built this one years ago when it was an original release. I'll have to see if I can find it in my junkyard. My mom had a way of thinning my collection by dusting them right off in the floor. Yikes! Nice job!
Andy, thanks for the back story and for watching! -PS, please subscribe if you haven't already to help us reach more modelers! -Doug
@@RightOnReplicas I subbed a while back! Keep up the good work!
Just Finished, apart from a few of the fragile bits which will be added after painting. Not the easiest of kits but very satisfying.
I prefer to build the whole kit then spray paint, which tends to require some of the construction to be modified so that sub assemblies can be removed.
Mods so far.
The Trailer tank was modified around the join so that the waist band overlapped strengthening the assembly. This meant the I girders needed a little tweaking with a file.
The Trailer bogie is screwed to the tank rather than glued using 8BA screws.
Cab tilting has been achieved by drilling the pivots with a 0.5 mm drill through the triangular pivot plates and pivot brackets. Lills Pins (0.5mm dress making pins) replacing the nibs, which were filed off. The pins are removable so whole cab can be taken off.
The Cab has been fixed to the floor assembly using 8BA screws and Lills Pins. Again this allows the sections to be separated for the spray painting process.
One surprising thing that occurred, by accident, was that on assembling the door pivot plates the section inside the cab was a interference fit between the front of the cab (bulkhead) and upright panel of the floor assembly. This allowed me to hold it in place whilst glueing the doors, suitably strengthened with Lills pins, in place against the door plate. The pivot assembly just snaps between the bulkhead and floor assembly but continues to be removable for painting. Design or pure luck????????
The front Mudguard dowels have been replaced with 2.5mm brass rod turned down at the end to 1mm to fit in holes drilled into the edge of the mudguard and super glued in. These are an interference fit into the holes in the chassis . Again this aids painting and prevents accidental damage whilst handling as they can be removed.
The rear mud flaps have been screwed to 2mm brass tube with 10BA screws. 10 BA studding soldered into the end of the tube and this allows the flaps to be bolted through the frame between the main spring and helper spring mouldings.
As mentioned previously all wheels are removable and the front wheels are poseable.
To some this might seem a lot of faff or fiddle but I do love a challenge. I do hope this gives people some ideas on how others attack some of the problems with assembly.
Mandy, That's quite an ambitious project! I can see that your emphasis is on building modules that can be disassembled for the purpose of painting after assembly and you use some rigorous methods to accomplish that. It's a very interesting approach. Thanks for sharing and if you find our channel helpful, please subscribe if you haven't already, to help us continue our mission to inspire more modelers! -Doug!
@@RightOnReplicas Thanks. One question. I use rattle cans whenever possible but also use an airbrush and hand painting for small parts. Based in the UK, I note we don't seem to have the variety of aftermarket parts that the US has (going on You Tube clips). Certainly in the Pant department choice is less broad. Any thoughts?
Mandy, I've heard from others in EU and AUS that have said the same thing, so I'm inclined to agree that there's less of a market in other areas. Thanks for sharing! -Doug
Excellent work as usual Doug.. it brings childhood memories..
RK, Glad you enjoyed it! -Doug
Nice build ! Doug glad i got a coupe in my stash but with trailers
CP, Thanks and it sounds like hours of fun ahead for you! -Doug
Once again your Video to the rescue. The front stub axles protrude too far through the wheels - confirmed by the Vid. Have fixed the Stub Axles to the Axle Beam using 14BA screws so that the assembly can turn and steer.
Am going to fix the rear wheels to the Diff using 10BA screws and washers, and will turn up a Top Hat, in Brass, to fix the Front Wheels to the Stub Axles allowing rotation.
Thanks again for your help.
Mandy, Those are some ambitious mods. Keep up the good work! Thanks for watching and please subscribe if you haven't already, to help us continue our mission to inspire more modelers! -Doug
@@RightOnReplicas
Mods made. Front axle steers, and wheels rotate front and rear. Had to chop off the rear axle stubs (Too flimsy) and use 85 x 3.2mm brass, drilled and threaded, to produce axle stubs.
That was a neat little gas powered semi tractor! I've been wanting to build one myself! Great work as always Doug!
Thanks John! -Doug
Great review and awesome build. Thanks Doug.got this one in my stash,trailer and 40 Ford.nice job on the details.peace
Thanks Tim glad you liked it! -Doug
Very cool truck, Great review, I will be watching for this kit, it looks unique. Thanks.
Travis, Thanks for watching and good luck on your search! -Doug
Awesome kit , and awesome build . SOOOOOOOO KOOOOOOOOLLLLLL.....
Mike, Thanks a bunch! -Doug
Nice build. Thanks for sharing guys.
You bet BigC, -Doug
I bought mine years ago it also came with a flatbed trailer with a 40 ford coupe😊
FS, Thanks for sharing and please subscribe, if you haven't already, to help us inspire even more modelers! -Doug
I cut the motor off the trans. And I had a hemi laying around. So i cut the trans off of it to. I put a hemi in my truck. Im not done yet but working on it.
Stephen, Sounds like fun! -PS, please subscribe if you haven't already to help us reach more modelers! -Doug
Love these COE trucks.
John, Glad you like them! -PS, please subscribe if you haven't already to help us reach more modelers! -Doug
Just a hint - I fitted my tyres to the Rims after dropping them in "just boiled" water. Softened them up enough to allow them to slide onto the rims and, when cooled, a shrink fit!
Mandy, Great tip! Thanks for sharing and please subscribe if you haven't already, to help us continue our mission to inspire more modelers! -Doug
Hi Doug, quick question, how do colorize clear glass windshield and even headlight’s, thank you sir!!!!!
Ken, depends on color. For "window tint" you can use Tamiya's Smoke, X19, thinned. The more layers, the darker it will be. Though I've not tried it (yet), thinned Tamiya Clear Yellow, Orange, Red, or Green could/should give the same affect.
Good question. See Michael's reply above! -PS, please subscribe if you haven't already to help us reach more modelers! -Doug
Too bad there wasn't a "Tandum Axle" version for the Dodge L-700...
From what research I was able to gather.
TK, Hey, thanks for the info! -Doug
I have always wanted to build the Car Hauler Version of this, but at today's prices, I'd rather fill my fuel tank...
TK, I hear ya. They've gotten pretty pricey! -PS, please subscribe if you haven't already to help us reach more modelers! -Doug
REALLY SAD ISN'T IT 😭😭😭‼️??
Gary, Nice to hear from ya! -Doug